Bigbox99

It's either all in my head or the Special in Bait Finesse Special is their way to skirt around Shimano.

You want something like this. Lock plates/retainer can be picky and the hole for the screw in the plate needs to match the handle threaded screw hole location. Even amongst real Daiwas there is a difference between reel handles like the Fuego CT with its short plastic cap and handles meant to have a long decorative color lock plate. The CR80 isn't a real Daiwa so I have no idea what lock plate to use. Luckily there are lock plates that have a slot instead of a hole and they will accommodate a handle with a screw hole anywhere on the lock plate slot. You can also spend about double and get a cheap carbon fiber handle that comes with a nut, lock plate and screw as well as knobs obviously. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807961663116.html? Amazon also has a slightly more expensive option too: https://www.amazon.com/UCCKEYI-Baitcasting-Fishing-Locking-Compatible/dp/B0DDTGPGCW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6? This looks like the cheapest option https://www.amazon.com/Fishing-Aluminum-Locking-Bearing-Accessory/dp/B0D8PV66DM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?

I have the JDM Scorpion with a yumeya spool. I sometimes throw 1/8 oz hard baits with it. Cool little reel but I have limited use for a centrifugal brake reel for very light baits. Not enough control for the kind of stuff I want to do around cover so it sees use with tiny cranks, poppers and the like.

I own some that say BF or Bait Finesse as well but Bait Finesse Systen seems to be a Shimano Japan owned term now. Even modern Majorcraft rods are shying away from putting BFS on the blank and they were big on putting a big BFS logo on their BFS models of the Corzza, Volkey and Speedstyle rods. I started noticing this happening right some time after the 1st gen Aldebaran BFS came out and the only Japanese rods with BFS written on them now are Shimano. This leads be to believe Shimano has some legal ownership of the term or is acting like they do and other Japanese brands are shying away from it. US rod brands don't seem to care.

The Tatula CT 150 SV is the same as the Tatula 150 SV. I add the CT when talking about it to denote that it is a Tatula CT platform reel. The purpose of that is to know what it palms like since there are 2 other Tatula platforms that can use the same deep 150 SV spool. The old Tatula CT platform, the last gen 2018-2023 Tatula 100 and current Tatula 100. The difference between the Tatula CT 150 SV and Salamandura 150 SV Boost is that the Salamandura palms smaller and has the SV Boost deep spool. The Salamndura is also probably cheaper because the Tatula 150 SV is a Daiwa US reel and the US market prices are crazy inflated compared to other markets. You'll pay more for the US market Tatula 150 SV on a 10 year old platform with a non Boost SV spool than you would on Aliexpress for a Salamandura 150 SV Boost using a custom version of the newest Tatula platform with a unique Boost spool. US prices are maddening. I don't know how people can just go pay full retail at Tacklewarehouse and look themselves in the mirror in the morning. Last gen Tatula platform Salamandura 150 SV Current Tatula 100 Salamandura 150 SV Boost

It's a narrow frame Compact Tough version of the original Tatula. The CT came out in 2016, was updated in 2020 with smaller knobs, nicer paint and a higher MSRP and recently, was given the deep SV spool from the old Coastal SV and Salamandura 150 SV to make the Tatula CT 150 SV. These are all basically the same reel and share part. Parts that are unique to the wide spool Tatula like the frame, spool, level wind shaft and thumb bar aren't compatible with the narrow frame Tatula CTs. Also note that the narrow frame Tatula CTs are still tallish reels because they share the side plate dimensions as the wide spool Tatula that is a native 36mm spool platform. The Tatula CTs, despite being 34mm spool only have a tall frame that sticks up past the 34mm spool opening to accommodate the tall side plates from the wide spool Tatula. Old wide spool tatula (2013 to 2025) Tatula CT (2016-2020) Tatula CT (2020-2025) Tatula 150 SV

It's a narrow frame version of the original Tatula. They came out around 2016. The 150 SV is one with a deep SV similar to the Salamandura but without the Boost. I think it's US market only so grossly overpriced compared to Daiwa China reels on Aliexpress. You won't believe it but the Daiwa China Fuego SV runs $100 while we pay $130 for a non SV Fuego. I bought my Daiwa China Tatula 80 for $95 while Daiwa US wanted $199 at the time. Old wide Tatula/Tatula HD (2013 to 2025) Narrow frame Tatula Compat Tough (2016 to 2020) Tatula CT again but updated for 2020 with thin knobs and fancier paint (2020 to 2025) Tatula SV 150. Same reel as the Tatula CT but with a deep SV spool and the new style thin knobs.

There are cheap kits under $20 out there on Aliexpress for Shimano reels but I dont know if the Curado 150 has a kit. They seem to have every reel but a Curado. Amazon has a kit for the Curado 150 MGL but it's $40. That seems to be your easiest option.

I find that just not setting your reels upside down goes a long ways. Reels get rashed up because people put the rod down by placing the rod butt on the ground and then relaxing their grip of the rod. This causes the weight of the reel to rotate to the bottom and then when set down, or dropped, the reel is upside down. If you just stop doing this the vast majority of reel rash will stop happening. You can also use the reel handle like a kick stand so that rod trigger and one of the knobs are the points of contact with the ground while the reel remains upright.

Same angler's (bass1980) Pixy Silver Mica. I think this looks equally good despite going into this not liking the Airy Red. Some time ago I actually bought the spool from an Airy Red and put it into my Silver Mica because I disliked the red/Silver of the Airy Red and wanted an all silver Airy Red Pixy but that reel above is has changed my mind on that color pattern.

That color pattern is mostly well loved by Daiwa fans with the Pixy Ariy Red and TD Fuego. I've never been a fan of the red side with silver frame but this reel changed my mind. Maybe it's the photography but it looks super slick but I think it it is the parts on the reel that play on the color scheme.

Since you will be be using PE the capacity of a 34mm spool reel like the Salamandura 150 VS Boost or Zillion HD will be fine. I use a Zillion HD to cast a bait that weighs over 60 grams with PE line and the reel does great.

The Salamandura runs about $200 shipped with all fees included.

Yes

The Curado 150 is even smaller. It's got a little 12 gram 32mm spool. The Tatula is a little bigger with a 34mm spool and the Salamandura 150 SV Boost has a deep SV Boost spool. If you want a little more capacity the Tatula 150 with its 36mm Magforce Z LC spool should be great.

It's a Tatula 100 with the deep SV spool from the Coastal, Salamadura 150 SV, Tatula 150 VS but in boost form. It's one of those Daiwa China reels that is unique to that market like the Fuego SV. Daiwa US doesn't get cool things like that. Aliexpress ships to the US and sell Daiwa China products so you they can be found there. https://www.daiwachina.com/

When I still had my 65 UL Volkey BFS I used to fish the 1/16 oz BPS weedless worm hook jig head things with a BPS hellgramite a lot. I basically kept one tied on that rod that all times. The hellgramite is a 3 inch bait but it's mostly flat so its pretty light for its length. If I wanted to do that today I would look at the Majocraft UL bass rods like the Benkei or Days. I would also cross shop the Shimano UL BFS rods. The only other advice I can give is to avoid solid tip rods. The hyper flexible tip will rob you of some hook setting power when trying to drive hooks through plastic and into a fish.

The trout rod stuff is super interesting and I'm just starting to get into it. I'm still trying to figure out stream vs area trout rods. From what I understand, stream rods are graphite and for mountain stream fishing and area rods are usually glass and softer for fishing managed trout ponds or managed areas hence the name. I'm just going to go dink slaying in ponds with a glass trout rod next year and then try my hand at stream fishing later. I don't onow anything about fishing streams and creeks. I'm not even sure if my nearest stream that is stocked with trout even allows you to get into the water and walk down it or if you have to stay in the public access shore? This whole thing is new to me but new fishing things are fun.

That's actually how BFS rods have always been and what makes them special. Whippy trout rods have been around for a very long time and BFS rods are a relatively modern phenomenon. I remember when they 1st came out in Japan and we were importing them and discussing them in the 2010s. What made them exciting was that they were unlike any L or UL rod any of us has come across in that they that light tips and could cast light baits but were very stiff with lots of backbone to hook and control a fish around cover. Why Shimano, Majorcraft and other were putting letters "BFS" on these bass rods I don't know but they only put them on these bass rods and not their stream or area trout rods. "BFS" at the time just meant a type of bass rod. And a BFS reel was a reel you would pair to that rod which was something like Daiwa or Shimano with a aftermarket spool and later the Daiwa Air reels, Alphas SV and Alde BFS. People would ask what BFS means and we would tell them "Bait Finess System" and then when asked what that meant the reply was "I don't know it's a new type of rod from Japan". At the time you just had to get one and fish it to experience what that type of rod could do. I remember skipping tiny baits at the shore at pressured fish and pull then out when no one else could get bit. This was a time when a weightless 5" senko was considered crazy light and for spinning tackle only. I was getting crazy looks skipping with a baitcast reel let alone skipping wacky finesse worms and neds at the time. Later when BFS rod became more popular with the masses of redditors the term evolved to meaning casting as light as weight as possible with a baitcast reel. Now most in the US think of BFS as UL and super UL whippy trout rods casting trout magnets. Shimano, who I think gained some legal ownership of the acronym, are the only ones putting it one their rods and reels to my knowledge. Interestingly, some of their BFS reels (22 alde) have evolved to become super UL capable stream trout reels while their BFS rods remain true bass rods. It's to the point that you almost don't want to put a Shimano BFS reel on their BFS rods. Anyways, here is a pretty good topic from. BR user that has the same sort of impression of his Majorcraft Volkey BFS as you do of your Expride BFS. The Volkey was a popular BFS around 2015 because it was only $150 and considred super nice for the price.

Actually I think he already has that one. Looks like it was his round reel gateway drug.

Another one to consider, especially because you like centrifugal reels, is the Ming Yang W300. They're a vintage Abu 2500c style reel but super chintzy. Not exactly a glowing endorsement but they are cheap and fun and let's you check out that vintage form factor and synchronized level wind and tinker with upgrade parts. A slightly higher end option over the Ming Yang is the magnetic brake Aioushi round reel. It features a better frame to reduce gaps around the spool and a thum bar operated clutch. The Ming Yang W300 doesn't like casts where the reels is swung through the air and stopped. It will engage the clutch almost every time on the cast. It's best used with the type of rod loading cast you see in the stream fishing videos. The Aioushi doesn't have this issue due to what I assume is a better clutch design. W300 Upgrade parts https://youtu.be/Fw7D5HkIPgc?si=P9EIMyepq9qN2-vI Aioushi reel

Cut the owner screw lock off and use one that can unclip from the hook eye and open up the part that clips onto the hook eye a bit so it can unclip easily. This will allow the screw lock to stay embedded in the nose of the bait instead of ripping out. Once unclipped from the hook eye the bait can slide up the hook and line. Once the fish is unhooked you can slide the bait back down and clip the nose of the bait back onto the hook eye. I've fished a single Caffine Shad all year once. I only changed it to a fresh one when it rolled over inside out on itself from sliding up the line so many times. The twist lock was still in the nose and I unscrewed it and moved it to the next bait. If you are curious as to what "unclipping from the hook and sliding up the line when a fish is hooked" looks like look at the picture of the fish with a Jackall bait dangling next to it.

Some how I had two tabs open and replied to the wrong thread.

Dirty pitted cork is makes my eyes vomit. That's the reason for cork sealer. It prevents cork from taking on that horrific appearance. That hedious appearance is why some people "don't like cork". What they mean is "I had or saw a cork rod with work cork and it made my eyes bleed". Sealer solves this issue. Use sealer.

I have seen zero marketing, zero whatever "googan" is and bought the baits because my local BPS has them and the blister pack packaging, bait designs, colors, price per pack and the selection offered all looked good and I bought them and will buy more when I need a senko type bait or a punching caw thing. Might even try the rattling Ned next. I actively avoid all marketing about basically anything unless its a breakdown of the nuts and bolts of what it is which is rarely the case. I am immune to propaganda.