I'm the biggest novice/inexperienced Jig angler in the planet, my only experience is throwing them in my bathtub to see the action...

I was wondering instead of braid with a fluro leader... Can I run straight fluro? What size? Would I lose sensitivity or is there other cons or pros of this?

The advantage with jig fishing is you can get bye with one or two refills of braid a season,saving you big bucks in the long run.I have used straight flouro and Im sure a lot on here do,but a three foot leader is a heck of alot easier on the wallet .If your going to use straight fluorocarbon for jigs I like it between 15 and 20# Seaguar for all my heavy stuff 12# on Eakins style jigs.

I got away from using Fluoro just because when a 4 dollar North Star jig gets hung up in the nasty, I can usually pull it out with Braid.

 

That said, I ran 14 pound (in not as nasty of cover) and 20 pound (in the nasty) Fluoro for a couple of years with decent success. On the average rod, I couldn't tell a difference in bites using Braid over Fluoro.

 

I use braid for its strength, but more for the line management of it. I hate line twist and memory with everything that's holy. I get none with braid.

 

Good luck with your Jig fishing. Its my all time favorite. I have two dedicated Jig rods and will be adding a 3rd next year. Only topwater comes close to the feel and thrill of a "thump" on a jig.

Yes. I do that most of the time to avoid a week link in the line where the braid meets the leader.

 

As for test it depends on:

1. Bottom conditions.

2. Weight of the jig and pig.

 

I use 17 or 20 pound flourocarbon line. The 20 pound test in structure to pull them out.

17lb Seagaur straight flouro on my jig rods as a general rule.

Jeff

I throw straight 16# Toray Superhard Upgrade on my jig rod. I like that it sinks and love the increased abrasion resistance and sensitivity on slack line due to it's density and stiffness. I don't find the managability to be an issue at all on casting gear.

I have all fluoro setups, but this is how i do it. I first fill my spool with backing, which is normally 12lb big game mono. Then tie on a heavy jig and make the farthest cast you can in you backyard. Pull out another 10yards or so. Then cut the line, tie on your fluoro with a alberto knot to the mono backing, fill the spool the rest of the way. You can get 3-4 uses out of a 200yd spool of fluoro this way depending on how far you can cast... saves a lot of money and still works great and is like having a full spool of fluorocarbon

You wouldn't be losing any sensitivity if you went with a higher end floro. For me tatsu or shooter are excellent for bottom contact baits likes jigs. They are both on the pricier side of floro but to me well worth the investment. Here in the Midwest 12-15# is usually all you need but if you need more strength you can go higher.

While I think highly of invisix, abrisix, sniper, and p-line 100% floro, they just aren't as sensitive as shooter or tatsu.

I use 12-20lb fluoro for all my jigs, mainly Seaguar or Vicious Elite. I also use mostly backing with 30-50 yards of fluoro to make the spools last longer. Most of my jig casts are fairly short and even the biggest bass isn't going to pull much drag to need a bunch of line. Just make sure you tie a good knot when you attach it to your backing in case you hook a big catfish or something so you don't lose all your expensive line

I have been using bright colored mono with a fluoro leader for my jigs, and still feel little ticks. I put on a 3' fluoro leader to reduce visibility. The reason I do this is I'm a line watcher when jig fishing, and I have a hard time seeing even 17 pound fluoro. Plus fluoro sinks faster than mono and I like my jigs to have a slow fall, since I rarely fish water deeper than 15 feet. 

 

Yes, good fluoro is more sensitive than mono, and braid even more so. With braid though they are more likely to feel you and spit.

I have one rig spooled with Tatsu #20 and another with Kanzen braid and a Tatsu leader.

There is no noticable difference in either presentation, but I still prefer fluorocarbon for the 

mainline without any leader.

16# Sunline Sniper does great for me. Personally, I have more confidence on FC for some reason.

Right now the highest I have is 15lb Seaguar invisx.  If I need heavier I throw straight braid.

Am I the only one throwing straight braid??? If I get hung up I grab the spool with my thumb, point the rod towards the snag and walk back until the hook straightens.....that way I get my skirt and trailer back. The only jig I have broken off was a hack attack, due to the massive unbendable hook.

15 lb sufix invisiline for most northern wi lakes for me.  with a lot of the clear water up there i get nervous about using braid for anything but topwater.  I tried using braid with a fluoro leader but i got tired of tying knots

I use 12-20 lb segar red label or invisx or abrasx. depends on the lake and conditions, if it is realy dirty water straight braid works fine, but in more than 1.5 ft clarity I use floro. I like the little bit of stretch in floro, braid has no forgiveness on either the fish or my rods.

 

Mitch

 

The advantage with jig fishing is you can get bye with one or two refills of braid a season,saving you big bucks in the long run.I have used straight flouro and Im sure a lot on here do,but a three foot leader is a heck of alot easier on the wallet .If your going to use straight fluorocarbon for jigs I like it between 15 and 20# Seaguar for all my heavy stuff 12# on Eakins style jigs.

 

What he said x2, specifically the line and leader. 

12,15, and 20lb Seaguar Tatsu on my three jig rods.

I use 15 & 20 lb Seaguar on my jig rods depending on the cover. 

20# FC or 65# braid depending what lake/cover I'm fishing

Maxima/power pro

I break all leaders...never again

right now on one of my jig rods i am running straight 14lb flouro

20# Invisix or 50# braid...

 

 

Mike