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Clear Coat For Jig Heads

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I'm gonna start clear coating my painted jig heads mostly for aesthetic reasons, but I like the idea of extra durability as well.  What is the best clear coat out there as far as durability and whatever else I should consider?

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My first choice would be D2T (Devxcon 2 Ton). It's downright good stuff when it cures with one coat coverage. The only drawback, is that if have a white jig, the clearcoat will subdue the white. My second choice would be E-tex (Envirotex light). Excellent clearcoat for white jigs. This clearcoat is runny and you will need two coats. It is also slightly softer than D2T. These are both 2 part epoxies, that must be mixed thoroughly and equally in order to get a hard clear finish.

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Thanks.  Just how durable is the D2T?  

Is there a reason you are not powder coating?

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Is there a reason you are not powder coating?

I plan on powder coating then adding a clear coat.  Is that okay? lol I'm new at this.  I might just forget the whole clear coat thing all together if harbor freights powder paint is as tough as they say it is.  

 

By the way, can you mix two different powders to get a different color?  Could I mix yellow and black powder to get a green pumpkinish color?

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Cad, do you use Devcon over powder paint?

I'm going to try the UV powder coat.

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I plan on powder coating then adding a clear coat.  Is that okay? lol I'm new at this.  I might just forget the whole clear coat thing all together if harbor freights powder paint is as tough as they say it is.  

 

By the way, can you mix two different powders to get a different color?  Could I mix yellow and black powder to get a green pumpkinish color?

I use many different colors of powder paint,  when applied as the manufacturer recommends, it will cure to a very hard finish without the need for an extra clear coating.  I have mixed many different custom colors by combining different colored powder paints, just keep in mind you don't always get what you expect, but it is fun none the less. 

 

If I can be of any help, just let me know.

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Cad, do you use Devcon over powder paint?

I'm going to try the UV powder coat.

I have been playing with a product called UV blast.  It is a spray, you apply it and let it dry, dries quickly and has a very hard finish.  I would be interested in hearing how your UV coating works for you.

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I use many different colors of powder paint,  when applied as the manufacturer recommends, it will cure to a very hard finish without the need for an extra clear coating.  I have mixed many different custom colors by combining different colored powder paints, just keep in mind you don't always get what you expect, but it is fun none the less. 

 

If I can be of any help, just let me know.

 

I'm pretty much just looking for a jig head that won't chip.  It's possible I believe.  

 

 

I have been playing with a product called UV blast.  It is a spray, you apply it and let it dry, dries quickly and has a very hard finish.  I would be interested in hearing how your UV coating works for you.

 

I have some UV clear coat on the way.  It's not the spray.  It's a water based epoxy (I think) that you put on with a brush.  I figured it would only aid in the durability of the paint as well as the appearance.  I read some reviews that said it wasn't too good though.  Kinda worried, but oh well.  I'm gonna pick up some of Harbor Freights powder tomorrow.  Thought about making a fluid bed.   Is it worth it? Is it messy?

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I'm pretty much just looking for a jig head that won't chip.  It's possible I believe.  

 

 

 

I have some UV clear coat on the way.  It's not the spray.  It's a water based epoxy (I think) that you put on with a brush.  I figured it would only aid in the durability of the paint as well as the appearance.  I read some reviews that said it wasn't too good though.  Kinda worried, but oh well.  I'm gonna pick up some of Harbor Freights powder tomorrow.  Thought about making a fluid bed.   Is it worth it? Is it messy?

I have a fluid bed, I find that I can run small numbers of baits just as well  without using it.  If I want to do  a good number of baits then I will use my fluid bed.  Fluid beds can be a little messy covering a small area in a very fine dust.   Nothing outrageous, at least in my experience.

 

One of the secrets to having a jig with a durable finish is the process of curing the paint after it is applied.

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I have a fluid bed, I find that I can run small numbers of baits just as well  without using it.  If I want to do  a good number of baits then I will use my fluid bed.  Fluid beds can be a little messy covering a small area in a very fine dust.   Nothing outrageous, at least in my experience.

 

One of the secrets to having a jig with a durable finish is the process of curing the paint after it is applied.

I have read that curing is the key, but I've never owned a single jig where the paint doesn't get absolutely demolished after one trip.  I fish a lot of shallow rock. Most companies cure their paint with heat right? 

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I have read that curing is the key, but I've never owned a single jig where the paint doesn't get absolutely demolished after one trip.  I fish a lot of shallow rock. Most companies cure their paint with heat right? 

I don't know, do they?   My jigs hold paint a heck of a lot better than many of the commercial jigs I have purchased.

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I don't know, do they?   My jigs hold paint a heck of a lot better than many of the commercial jigs I have purchased.

Haha it seems like they should.  If you don't mind me asking, how long and what temp do you cure your jigheads?

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Haha it seems like they should.  If you don't mind me asking, how long and what temp do you cure your jigheads?

I follow the mfg's recommendation.   I have a few different paints, but they are usually around 300 degrees for 15 minutes.

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Do you wire tie or thread?  I have some 28 gauge copper wire that should work well I think.. Wrapping the wire around and then twisting till it breaks at the base seems like the best way to go about it.  Where do you get molds that fit hooks like Owners and Gammies?  All the Do-it molds I've seen recommend Mustad. I'd like to try different hooks like EWG's and what not.  

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I wire tie almost all of my jigs, I don't twist until they break, I twist until it is a nice tight uniform pattern, and then cut it with about 5-7 twist remaining.   Most of the molds I use or have access to are Do-it molds.  Many of them recommend eagle claw hooks.  You just have to play around with hooks until you find one that will work with the mold and meet your requirements or break out the dremel tool and make it the way you like.  

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I powder coat and cure then use Devcon 2 ton epoxy over top of that. I tried a lot of stuff and Devcon seems to be the best as it is super clear and is very hard, the working time of the 30 minute epoxy is only 10 to 15 minutes max, but it is self leveling so even if you leave brush marks in it, it will level out and finish curing perfectly smooth and it is thin enough to appy easily but still thick enough that you don't need a drying wheel and it is great with just a single coat.

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A urethane like Perma Gloss will dry water clear and harder than any epoxy. It is hot on some paints so test it but over cured powder paint.

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Thanks.  Just how durable is the D2T?  

 

Durable is a relative term. I always clear coat my spinnerbaits, as, many times I will drag or slow roll my spinnerbaits on the bottom. The only time I would use a clearcoat for jigs, is if it had 2D or 3D eyes. The clearcoat keeps the eyes from falling off, other than that, I never use it unless requested. If you powder paint your jig and cure them properly, you will lose the jig before the paint wears off. However if you drag heavy jigs over rock and shale, then yes the powder paint will eventually start wearing away. Let's face it powder paint is not indestructible. However if you add D2T, you will only see a small rash on the bottom of the clearcaot start to occur. if you want you could add another coat over an existing one. Since I make soooo many jigs, I don't worry about paint wearing off, and honestly the fish really don't care either.

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I plan on powder coating then adding a clear coat.  Is that okay? lol I'm new at this.  I might just forget the whole clear coat thing all together if harbor freights powder paint is as tough as they say it is.  

 

By the way, can you mix two different powders to get a different color?  Could I mix yellow and black powder to get a green pumpkinish color?

 

Yes you can mix any color powder paint with another color to get what you want. I mix polyester, hybrid and epoxy based powder paint with no problems. However here are some things to remember. #1 When you mix two colors together, you will never get a pure color. So if you mix blue and  and yellow to get a shade of green, it will never be as good as if you had an actual green color powder made. #2.  Make sure you write down your color ratios, so you can get a close match next time. Finally by mixing colors, you will always have a somewhat of a close color like your last batch. it will not be exact. So if you want consistency all the time, mixing colors should not be an option. This is your choice.

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Cad, do you use Devcon over powder paint?

I'm going to try the UV powder coat.

Yes I do use D2T over a properly cured jig. It does make the paint last longer. However for myself I rarely do i,t only for the 3D eyes, because I lose too many jigs, and I find using a clearcoat for me is a waste of time. I will tell you that once you clear coat the jig, it will make that paint pop. It does look really cool.

 

On the UV clearcoat epoxy, I have had adverse effects on my powder paint, and I do not like it. But that is me. I have not used the UV powder coat. I have also used a 200% Gloss clear powder over a powder paint jig with great results. However you cannot use it with 2d and 3d eyes, as the eyes melt, when you go to cure the jig second time around.

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I have read that curing is the key, but I've never owned a single jig where the paint doesn't get absolutely demolished after one trip.  I fish a lot of shallow rock. Most companies cure their paint with heat right? 

 

 Yes curing is the key. The reason you never had jigs that last, is because you bought store bought jigs, and they were either powder painted without curing or lacquer painted. Once you start painting your own, you will never buy store bought jigs.  Yes, I cure my jig in a toaster oven. The process of painting one color jigs is not complicated. Fluid bed or dipping is the quickest. When you get to 6 color jigs like in my avatar, that is a different story. But everything is doable if you know what steps to follow.

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Augie,

    There is a lot of good info here from a lot of knowledgeable guys. Get as much info as you can and ask questions. This will save you a lot of trial and error. I have over 125 molds, and have done a lot of different jig designs with different hooks. Everything is do-able and is limited only to your imagination. I also have tutorials on how to paint, pour and tie jigs. If you want more help PM me and I can help get you started.

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A urethane like Perma Gloss will dry water clear and harder than any epoxy. It is hot on some paints so test it but over cured powder paint.

Thank you.  I'll look that up right now. Bout to order something tonight. It's between the Devcon 2 ton and this I'd say.

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I powder coat and cure then use Devcon 2 ton epoxy over top of that. I tried a lot of stuff and Devcon seems to be the best as it is super clear and is very hard, the working time of the 30 minute epoxy is only 10 to 15 minutes max, but it is self leveling so even if you leave brush marks in it, it will level out and finish curing perfectly smooth and it is thin enough to appy easily but still thick enough that you don't need a drying wheel and it is great with just a single coat.

I really like the idea of self leveling  :lol: Especially for my first few. 

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