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How To Pawder Paint A Jig With Weed Guard

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I have a football mold that will not accept base pins and must have weed guard molded in. I want to powder paint these jigs and cure in an oven. How can I do this without ruining the weed guard? Any and all suggestions welcome!!

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I doubt you'll be able to cure them with the weed guard in. You won't be able to get them high enough in temp without the weed guard deforming. They do make a weed guard "cover" which is just a piece of plastic that covers the weed guard, allowing you to use a heatgun on the jig without heating up the weed guard. They work ok, but still not as good as a base hole pin setup. What's stopping it from using a base hole pin?

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I have a football mold that will not accept base pins and must have weed guard molded in. I want to powder paint these jigs and cure in an oven. How can I do this without ruining the weed guard? Any and all suggestions welcome!!

Like lmoore mentioned, I have found that the only correct way to powder paint jigs heads and bake them properly is without the weedguard. Also why can't you pour the head without the weedgurd in place? Is it a Do-it Mold? If so what is the model number, then I can give you a proper answer.

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it is a do it mold, model FBW-4-AF, I didn't realize it wasn't made for base pins when I ordered it. Its designed for a weed guard, the mold wont hold a base pin. May have screwed up buying this mold....

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If it won't hold a base pin in the mold, pour it without and then drill (carefully) the hole afterwards. Put the base pin in while painting, cute, and epoxy the weed guard in. I've done that before when I forgot to put base pins in and it worked just fine.

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it is a do it mold, model FBW-4-AF, I didn't realize it wasn't made for base pins when I ordered it. Its designed for a weed guard, the mold wont hold a base pin. May have screwed up buying this mold....

You can still pour these without the weedguard in. Here is what to do.

 

#1 Find a drill bit or piece of wire, that is the correct diameter of the weedguard hole.

#2 Take the drill bit or wire, and place it in the mold cavity, where the weedguard is supposed to lie.

#3 If the drill bit falls out when you turn the mold over, wrap a piece of tape around it to make it snug.

#4 Close mold and pour away.

#5 You can either pull out the drill bit to pour the rest, or if you use wire, have a bunch of wires cut and leave the wire in and powder paint your heads.

#6 Make sure you pull the drill bits out before you bake.

#7 That's it.

 

I do this all the time for this mold. This will eliminate you pouring the weedguards in place, and powder painting will be easier. Epoxy your weedguard in after baking jigs.

 

I'm at work now, but when I get home tonight, I will let you know what diameter wire /drill bit will fit in the mold.

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You can still pour these without the weedguard in. Here is what to do.

 

#1 Find a drill bit or piece of wire, that is the correct diameter of the weedguard hole.

#2 Take the drill bit or wire, and place it in the mold cavity, where the weedguard is supposed to lie.

#3 If the drill bit falls out when you turn the mold over, wrap a piece of tape around it to make it snug.

#4 Close mold and pour away.

#5 You can either pull out the drill bit to pour the rest, or if you use wire, have a bunch of wires cut and leave the wire in and powder paint your heads.

#6 Make sure you pull the drill bits out before you bake.

#7 That's it.

 

I do this all the time for this mold. This will eliminate you pouring the weedguards in place, and powder painting will be easier. Epoxy your weedguard in after baking jigs.

 

I'm at work now, but when I get home tonight, I will let you know what diameter wire /drill bit will fit in the mold.

 

The proper diameter for that mold is 5/64" 

 

Tom

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The diameter of the FG-12 weed guard is 5/64", so go here....http://www.speedymetals.com/p-3356-2532-rd-o-1-drill-rod.aspx  

 

Order the tool steel rod in 5/64" diameter and when you get it you can cut them into 2" pieces and make your own base hole pin. You don't need to do anything to the mold, simply put the pin in the weed guard slot until it just about touches the hook and close the mold and pour.

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I have that same issue with one of my molds.  I use house romex electric wire.  It is a bit small to hold but a piece of duct tape over the slot then put in the wire works just fine.  I have been doing this for many years and had the romex on hand.

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Lots of ways to skin a cat, so there you go.

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They also make a cover to go over the weedguard so you can heat and coat the jig with the weedguard in. From what I've seen from the videos, it will still kind of flare out the weedguard when you heat it though.

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Put a little mold release agent on the wire or drill bit and it will come out easily once the lead has cooled. I use some made by Frankford Arsenal in the spray can. I use it on all my molds as well and it works much better than smoking the mold with a candle. I get nice smooth pours even when I do 15# downrigger balls.

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http://csipaint.com/instructions/techniques-instructions/how-to-use-pro-tec-powder-paints.php

 

Nylon melts over 500F, and the weed guard end survives the molten lead at >600F so the powder process should not affect the weed guard if done properly.  

I used to use a oven but use a heat gun now, its quicker.   Set the jig over the slotted adapter head and allow to warm for a few seconds.   Then powder coat.   Once the powder melts and glosses you're good to go.  

If you want to cure out, it's 350F for 15 min but you can go longer at lower temps.  

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2 hours ago, fish'n Jim said:

http://csipaint.com/instructions/techniques-instructions/how-to-use-pro-tec-powder-paints.php

 

Nylon melts over 500F, and the weed guard end survives the molten lead at >600F so the powder process should not affect the weed guard if done properly.  

I used to use a oven but use a heat gun now, its quicker.   Set the jig over the slotted adapter head and allow to warm for a few seconds.   Then powder coat.   Once the powder melts and glosses you're good to go.  

If you want to cure out, it's 350F for 15 min but you can go longer at lower temps.  

I use a heat gun also, works great.

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