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MANNY04

Opinions On Best Line To Use For Baitcaster And Methods Or Techinques?

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I've used a baitcaster for about 2 years i got the casting down to being pretty good, but then again sometimes you get your line getting birdnest witch i understand that that is common using a baitcaster, Just want some info on everyone else opinion on line and what some different type of methods or tricks??

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Jig- 15# fluorocarbon

Crank- 10# fluorocarbon

flipping/pitching/punching- 50+# braid

Hollow body frog- 65# braid

spinner bait, bladed jig, buzzbait, hard walking bait, popper- 15# mono

Shaky head/wacky rig- 20# braid. 

 

 

That's what I use in my waters. Should get you started.

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Here's my opinion on choice of line.

 

Mono - Fast moving baits (spinnerbaits) and those with treble hooks (topwaters, jerkbaits, crankbaits).  I want some stretch with these baits and they're moving fast enough that visibility isn't an issue.

 

FC - Slow moving baits (Pig-n-Jig, T-Rigs).  Probably doesn't matter, but in my mind I want less visibility.

 

Braid - Anything thrown in the slop or other heavy cover.  No Stretch & Heavy Line needed to drag them out.

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I find braid of an appropriate diameter tied with a uni-uni knot to either mono or fluoro of equal diameter to be the simplest and best performing setup. So if your rod is rated for 10-20 lb line, using 50 lb braid and a 15lb leader would be optimal. 12-17 lb leaders would work very well.

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overall id use braid if you could only choose one line for many reasons.

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For my baitcasters I've settled on 12# Fluro for clear or lightly stained water when fishing open water or light cover. I'm using heavy plastics, jerkbaits and jigs under 1/2 oz.. I like the Cabela's X50 because its cost effective and made by seaguar. You definitely want braid for pulling fish out of heavy over. But I've fished braid and fluro side by side in jigging situatuons and incidentally get more bites with Fluoro.

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If you could only use one line. I'd go with power pro super slick 8 around 20 to 50 pound depending on what your using

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Your bait casting reel shouldn't backlash unless it's adjusted incorrectly or your casting skills are lacking after 2 years. What causes a blacklash is the reel spool turning faster than the line is coming off it loosens the spooled line. Simply adjusting the spool breaking mechanism should prevent a backlash, too loose will cause a backlash.

The line plays a roll, if the line has a lot of memory it tends to spring off the spool loosening the spooled line. If you use high memory line like FC a line conditioner helps to reduce the memory.

Poorly adjusted reel with dry FC line will backlash easily.

The more breaking you add reducing casting distance. If you want maximum casting distance it takes fine tuning the breaks, using line with low memory and a rod that doesn't over accelerate the spool, a moderate action rod. The faster the action, the more difficult casting long distances becomes. Reducing spool breaking to increase casting distance requires skill and a trained thumb to prevent backlashes.

The isn't any panacea's, braid is very low memory however tends to kite in the wind because it's light weight compared to both mono or FC. Monofilament nylon line is also low memory and casts very good, you best choice to manage backlashes. Smaller diameter line has less memory than larger diameters, another consideration when selecting line.

Tom

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80% of my reels are spooled with Berkley Trilene Big Game, 90 % of the time I fish with, yep, you guessed right, with Berkley Trilene Big Game. So what happened that I don´t have all my reels spooled with Big Game ? well, most probably it´s because Trilene Big Game isn´t available in less than 10 lbs test, so the next thing close to it is, Berkley Trilene XT :eyebrows: . Simple, effective, hassle free.

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20# power Pro Super Slick with a fluoro leader as needed = most well rounded setup imo.

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Your bait casting reel shouldn't backlash unless it's adjusted incorrectly or your casting skills are lacking after 2 years. What causes a blacklash is the reel spool turning faster than the line is coming off it loosens the spooled line. Simply adjusting the spool breaking mechanism should prevent a backlash, too loose will cause a backlash.

The line plays a roll, if the line has a lot of memory it tends to spring off the spool loosening the spooled line. If you use high memory line like FC a line conditioner helps to reduce the memory.

Poorly adjusted reel with dry FC line will backlash easily.

The more breaking you add reducing casting distance. If you want maximum casting distance it takes fine tuning the breaks, using line with low memory and a rod that doesn't over accelerate the spool, a moderate action rod. The faster the action, the more difficult casting long distances becomes. Reducing spool breaking to increase casting distance requires skill and a trained thumb to prevent backlashes.

The isn't any panacea's, braid is very low memory however tends to kite in the wind because it's light weight compared to both mono or FC. Monofilament nylon line is also low memory and casts very good, you best choice to manage backlashes. Smaller diameter line has less memory than larger diameters, another consideration when selecting line.

Tom

 

Tom's nailed all of your line & casting problems - well said!

20# power Pro Super Slick with a fluoro leader as needed = most well rounded setup imo.

 

:smiley:Smokinal has to be right, I use the same set-up!, with some slite differances. I use #30 on all but my pitchin' rig then it's #50 straight to the hook & #65 on frogs. Spinning reels are #20 with a 4' to 8' leader. 8lb. to 12lb. F.C. I put 50 yrds. of braid over about a half spool of mono (15 to 17lb.) and I like Sea-Gar for F.C.

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If you still backlash quite a bit, yo zuri hybrid is a very strong, abrasion resistant line that is inexpensive

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Here's my opinion on choice of line.

 

Mono - Fast moving baits (spinnerbaits) and those with treble hooks (topwaters, jerkbaits, crankbaits).  I want some stretch with these baits and they're moving fast enough that visibility isn't an issue.

 

FC - Slow moving baits (Pig-n-Jig, T-Rigs).  Probably doesn't matter, but in my mind I want less visibility.

 

Braid - Anything thrown in the slop or other heavy cover.  No Stretch & Heavy Line needed to drag them out.

 

X2.    This is how i've done it for years.

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Your bait casting reel shouldn't backlash unless it's adjusted incorrectly or your casting skills are lacking after 2 years. What causes a blacklash is the reel spool turning faster than the line is coming off it loosens the spooled line. Simply adjusting the spool breaking mechanism should prevent a backlash, too loose will cause a backlash.

The line plays a roll, if the line has a lot of memory it tends to spring off the spool loosening the spooled line. If you use high memory line like FC a line conditioner helps to reduce the memory.

Poorly adjusted reel with dry FC line will backlash easily.

The more breaking you add reducing casting distance. If you want maximum casting distance it takes fine tuning the breaks, using line with low memory and a rod that doesn't over accelerate the spool, a moderate action rod. The faster the action, the more difficult casting long distances becomes. Reducing spool breaking to increase casting distance requires skill and a trained thumb to prevent backlashes.

The isn't any panacea's, braid is very low memory however tends to kite in the wind because it's light weight compared to both mono or FC. Monofilament nylon line is also low memory and casts very good, you best choice to manage backlashes. Smaller diameter line has less memory than larger diameters, another consideration when selecting line.

Tom

 

Not so sure about that first line.  If you're using a baitcaster, you're going to have a backlash once in a while...

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It doesn't take a lot of searches here on BR, or general googling to find that there's as many opinions on line as there are fishermen.  I happen to like Yo-Zuri and braid in various weights and combinations, but that info doesn't really do you a lot of good. 

 

My advice, though it probably isn't what you hoped to hear, is to try a number of different lines yourself -- pay a lot of attention to how the line is affecting your fishing and make your own decisions.   For example, you will have trouble getting consensus on here about the elasticity of mono vs fluoro......so forget about being told precisely when you should be using specific lines. 

 

You haven't said what sort of rod your baitcaster is on, nor how you're fishing it, so I don't think any one suggestion is going to help you very much.  Only you will be able to tell us which combination of floatability, stretch, sensitivity, visibility, abrasion resistance, etc is right for you; and you will only be able to begin to assess that after you can begin to tell/see/feel the difference yourself.

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If the breaks and spool tension are adjusted so the spool doesn't allow the lure to drop on it's weight when the spool is in free spool you can't backlash it, however the lure will not cast very far. To increase casting distance, the spool tension needs to be reduced to allow the lure to drop with slight tension, the breaks reduced to allow the lure to cast further. If the spool tension has no affect on the lure dropping on it's own weight or free falls,the breaks and your thumb are your only control to prevent a backlash.

Tom

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Anyone who casts spinnerbaits upwind and says they never get a backlash is untrustworthy.  :-)

 

I just cannot get FC to be usable exc on easy to cast lures, like lipless cranks.  If you go FC, get the best-don't go cheap.  Since Suffix seems to be top qualtiy on everything else, I expect their FC to be also.

 

Surface and most cranks, I use any good mono about 15 pound test.

 

For the rest, about 30 # braid with a FC leader.  I really like Suffix braid.  Haven't tried their gore version yet.

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