Jump to content
Josh Smith

Shortening Rod Butt

Recommended Posts

Hi Folks,

 

I'm looking at a new dedicated cranking rod that matches better the feel of the rest of my current rods.  My current dedicated crankbait rod is a '70s Lew's Speed Stick fiberglass model, 5'6", with pistol grip.  Though it does well, I've gotten used to the straighter grips.

 

The cranking rods I'm looking at are fiberglass and hybrids.  Because I use crankbaits mostly in the river, I'm going with the shorter (7' or less) lengths.

 

Most of these have long butt ends, too long for my preferred fishing style.  However, if I go and just chop the end off, it'll leave the rod imbalanced and, therefore, less sensitive.

 

I've been looking at rod butt weights.  Most are ugly -- I'd like a design that could be unscrewed and weighted washers or something added.  It would give the rod a clean look, I think.  Do they make anything like this?

 

Any tips for doing what I'm considering?  Will duct tape around the cut area keep the blank from splintering when I cut?  I plan to use a hack saw with fine teeth -- is this correct?  Or should I go with a fast rotary tool and cutting wheel?

 

Answers will help me decide which rod to buy.

 

Thank you!

 

Regards,

 

Josh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a couple devices available and ways to fabricate them. The problem is, the shorter the butt, the more weight is required to get the same feel. I never add weight to my own rods. If you want to kick it around some more feel free to give me a shout.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go on Mudhole tackle I believe Fuji has a kit like that.  Bass Pro has a kit also(that is bulky).  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If its just a straight cork handle then it will be easy.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you go with a split grip rod it would be easy to add a new cork or eva butt grip to your rod.   You could even stick some lead weights in the butt of the blank to balance if it is very tip heavy.  I'm not a fan of adding weight but that's your call.  

 

As far as cutting a blank, I've done it both ways and I don't really think it matters.   I would wrap the blank in masking tape and draw a straight line around the tape at the cut location.  Cut it with your hacksaw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just shortened my 6'6" Carbonlite spinning rod

to 6'3". Shortened the butt as you're doing.

 

Was able to heat up and remove the cut section

from the butt and reuse it by gluing it back on.

Not perfect by a builder's standard, but for me it

looks and feels great.

 

Balance with a Stradic 1000FJ is still spot-on

where I like to hold it. Going to be much easier

to use this rod now. Won't catch my PFD and 

such when in the yak.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The original rod is balanced. It must be rebalanced.

If we cut it were removing weight off the handle. The rod tip will be nose heavy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The original rod is balanced. It must be rebalanced.

If we cut it were removing weight off the handle. The rod tip will be nose heavy.

 

You can buy end caps that have weights in them to balance any rod. I just put one on my new St Croix spinning rod. It was tip heavey to start with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I shortened a Falcon Bucoo that I had. Since it's a split grip and they use a very simple eva butt cap that requires no arbor or boring it was very easy to do. I called them and had them send me a new butt cap. Made a few wraps with painters tape to give me a line to cut on. I used a Dremel with cutting disc and took off 2.5" from the rod. Used some marine glue and put on the new butt cap. Looks exactly like it did before except now it's 6'7 instead of 6'10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a couple rods I shortened that I now wish were a little longer...

 

 

oe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Darren, the long butt getting caught on the PFD is annoying in the kayak.  Why we go shorter...but we've been through this :)

 

rippin-lipps, who did you call for this?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you can!! We have a plethora of options! www.alpsforecast.com 

 

You can go to any retailer to find what your looking for. FYI, ALPS will be releasing soon a weighted but cap system to rival all! Here is some sneak pics! 

http://www.alpstackle.com/index1.php?func=product&gid=7&act=view&pro_id=57

 

The weighted system will have individual weights to balance your rod! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes you can!! We have a plethora of options! www.alpsforecast.com

You can go to any retailer to find what your looking for. FYI, ALPS will be releasing soon a weighted but cap system to rival all! Here is some sneak pics!

http://www.alpstackle.com/index1.php?func=product&gid=7&act=view&pro_id=57

The weighted system will have individual weights to balance your rod!

Matagi has a balancing system very similar to that. It's a good design.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First, are you sure you want to cut it off?  If you want to use two handed casting, you may not want to.  I wouldn't want a grip/handle so short I couldn't easily and comfortably do two handed casts.  The only reason I've cut off grips is when I screwed up early in my building of rods and I used too long a grip and it got caught on my clothing.  What's going on behind your hand doesn't really matter, does it?  Until you want leverage in fighting a fish, and it becomes advantageous to have some length back there.  Be sure before you cut.  You cannot uncut.

 

If you are just cutting the blank, then the Dremel will be your best bet.  High speed and fine teeth will prevent splintering.  Taping will provide some added insurance.  If cutting cork + blank at one time, I have found the best bet is a fine toothed carbide tipped blade on my table saw works very well.  Cobble a rig to hold the rod securely as it is slid through the blade. If using a radial arm saw, just get it aligned properly on a cobbled jig and slowly cut it it.  Slow is good.

 

 

I suggest before worrying about balancing systems, just try it as it is.  Keep in mind, by shortening it your reel and hand positions are not changing and the weight you're taking off is minimal.  It just may be fine.  I have found that many times the weight required to achieve balance makes the whole rod/reel assembly pretty clunky and unwieldy.  Most fishing is done with the tip down, which minimizes balance issues.  Fish with it, don't just "feel" it in the house and make your decision based on that.  

 

I have finished the end by simply gluing a rubberized cork ring with the rear rounded off onto the butt of the rod, then putting a coat of wrap epoxy over the ring and up over the next ring about 3/8 inch.  Sounds fragile, but it works quite well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been thinking. . . I know, dangerous.  Since you are leaving an old glass rod and transitioning to a modern glass or blend rod, which should, if you pick the right glass, be much lighter in the tip than the old rod and should not present a balance problem at any butt length.  I still would try it before I cut it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • fishing

    fishing forum

    fishing rods

    fishing reels

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass
    fish

×