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My understanding is that the braid used on a BC rod should be equal the diameter of the mono the rod is rated for.  Is that correct?  For instance, if the rod is rated 10-30 lb line, and my 65 lb braid is roughly that thickness, would it be okay?

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Line ratings on freshwater rods aren't all that helpful. Use common sense applying braid setting drag appropriately etc. 

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You can use what ever line you want.  Even small braid 30lbs has enough strength to brake most rods.  I have never broken braid off on a fish ever.  I have casted lures of into the sunset on 20 with a super spook.  Most people step it up to prevet dig into the reel or to prevent backlash brakeoffs.  If this is your first experience with braid try 40.

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Generally #40 on a baitcaster, #20 on spinning tackle.

 

:love22:

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You can use 65lb on that rod.

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I couldn't tell you the line rating on a single rod I own. It's just not important at all for freshwater bass applications.

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46 minutes ago, fishballer06 said:

I couldn't tell you the line rating on a single rod I own. It's just not important at all for freshwater bass applications.

 

Eh, I wouldn’t go quite that far. For example, if you’re fishing a rod rated for 8-15lb line with 65lb braid and the rod breaks, it’s not the rod’s fault. It’s yours. Seen guys break a rod and then go around thinking X brand has crappy rods. If you exceed the line rating for that rod (as freshwater guys often do), just keep in mind that the weak link in your set up is now the rod (depending on your drag settings). If it breaks, it’s on you. 

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8 minutes ago, BrackishBassin said:

 

Eh, I wouldn’t go quite that far. For example, if you’re fishing a rod rated for 8-15lb line with 65lb braid and the rod breaks, it’s not the rod’s fault. It’s yours. Seen guys break a rod and then go around thinking X brand has crappy rods. If you exceed the line rating for that rod (as freshwater guys often do), just keep in mind that the weak link in your set up is now the rod (depending on your drag settings). If it breaks, it’s on you. 

Just because your rod says it can handle x lbs of line doesn't mean it breaks at this point. Youd be surprised how hard if is to pick up a half gallon milk jug straight off the ground using a heavy power rod. It feel like it's going to break and that's only 4lbs. 

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1 hour ago, BrackishBassin said:

 

Eh, I wouldn’t go quite that far. For example, if you’re fishing a rod rated for 8-15lb line with 65lb braid and the rod breaks, it’s not the rod’s fault. It’s yours. Seen guys break a rod and then go around thinking X brand has crappy rods. If you exceed the line rating for that rod (as freshwater guys often do), just keep in mind that the weak link in your set up is now the rod (depending on your drag settings). If it breaks, it’s on you. 

 

1 hour ago, CroakHunter said:

Just because your rod says it can handle x lbs of line doesn't mean it breaks at this point.

This. 

 

There are way too many variables in affect to be worrying about line diameter. In general, most fluoro's are thinner than mono. In general, every companies lines have different diameters and actual breaking strength vs listed strength. Because of your point, I went and looked up the ratings for some of my rods and some popular lines that people use. 

 

Rod: G Loomis GLX 853C JWR

Rating: 12-16 pound line

 

Trilene XT Mono - 12lb: .38mm

Trilene XT Mono - 14lb: .40mm

Trilene XT Mono - 17lb: .43mm

Trilene Big Game - 15lb: .381mm

 

Sunline Sniper FC - 12lb: .29mm

Sunline Sniper FC - 14lb: .31mm

Sunline Sniper FC - 16lb: .33mm

Sunline Sniper FC - 20lb: .37mm

Sunline Sniper FC - 25lb: .41mm

Sunline Defier Mono - 15lb: .320mm

Sunline Defier Mono - 22lb: .380mm

 

Gamma Polyflex Copoly - 12lb: .33mm (Gamma claims 20 lb actual strength)

Gamma Polyflex Copoly - 14lb: .36mm (Gamma claims 23 lb actual strength)

Gamma Polyflex Copoly - 17lb: .38mm (Gamma claims 26.5 lb actual strength)

 

Sufix 832 Braid - 30lb: .29mm

Sufix 832 Braid - 40lb: .33mm

Sufix 832 Braid - 50lb: .34mm

Sufix 832 Braid - 65lb: .40mm

 

Pro Pro Braid - 30lb: .28mm

Pro Pro Braid - 40lb: .33mm

Pro Pro Braid - 50lb: .36mm

Pro Pro Braid - 65lb: .41mm

 

So if I were to worry about what pound line I'm using on my rod, I'd have one heck of a time knowing where to draw the line. If my rod is rated for 12lb. mono and Trilene XT is my favorite mono, I'm looking at a .38mm diameter. However, if I wanted to stick with a .38mm diameter line, I could increase my line strength to 20 pound Sunline Sniper FC or even go up to 22lb. Sunline Defier mono! If I were wanting to use braid, I could use 50 pound Sufix or Power Pro and step down to a smaller line diameter. 

 

Even using your example, if my rod is rated for 15lb. diameter mono and I like Trilene XT, 14lb. XT gives me a .40mm diameter, which is the exact same diameter of 65lb. Sufix 832. 

 

The real reason a majority of rods break is:

 

Manufacturer defect

Damaged (during shipping, stepped on, pinched in a door, jammed into ceiling or truck bed, etc. Could break upon doing so or during extended use)

Locked drag (will cause line or rod to break)

High sticking/boat flipping

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I would say #1 reason for rod breakage is high sticking and boat flipping.  #2 would be wiping the rod trying to get a lure Un stuck.  I have broken two rods one each way.  Lesson learned.  The heavier liNE just amplifies these abuses to the blank.  The weakest link in a setup is normally the knot on the lure but if using heavy braid the rod will give first.

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7 minutes ago, Angry John said:

I would say #1 reason for rod breakage is high sticking and boat flipping.  #2 would be wiping the rod trying to get a lure Un stuck.  I have broken two rods one each way.  Lesson learned.  The heavier liNE just amplifies these abuses to the blank.  The weakest link in a setup is normally the knot on the lure but if using heavy braid the rod will give first.

Exactly my point. Using line way over the recommended is asking for trouble. 

6 hours ago, fishballer06 said:

 

This. 

 

There are way too many variables in affect to be worrying about line diameter. In general, most fluoro's are thinner than mono. In general, every companies lines have different diameters and actual breaking strength vs listed strength. Because of your point, I went and looked up the ratings for some of my rods and some popular lines that people use. 

 

Rod: G Loomis GLX 853C JWR

Rating: 12-16 pound line

 

Trilene XT Mono - 12lb: .38mm

Trilene XT Mono - 14lb: .40mm

Trilene XT Mono - 17lb: .43mm

Trilene Big Game - 15lb: .381mm

 

Sunline Sniper FC - 12lb: .29mm

Sunline Sniper FC - 14lb: .31mm

Sunline Sniper FC - 16lb: .33mm

Sunline Sniper FC - 20lb: .37mm

Sunline Sniper FC - 25lb: .41mm

Sunline Defier Mono - 15lb: .320mm

Sunline Defier Mono - 22lb: .380mm

 

Gamma Polyflex Copoly - 12lb: .33mm (Gamma claims 20 lb actual strength)

Gamma Polyflex Copoly - 14lb: .36mm (Gamma claims 23 lb actual strength)

Gamma Polyflex Copoly - 17lb: .38mm (Gamma claims 26.5 lb actual strength)

 

Sufix 832 Braid - 30lb: .29mm

Sufix 832 Braid - 40lb: .33mm

Sufix 832 Braid - 50lb: .34mm

Sufix 832 Braid - 65lb: .40mm

 

Pro Pro Braid - 30lb: .28mm

Pro Pro Braid - 40lb: .33mm

Pro Pro Braid - 50lb: .36mm

Pro Pro Braid - 65lb: .41mm

 

So if I were to worry about what pound line I'm using on my rod, I'd have one heck of a time knowing where to draw the line. If my rod is rated for 12lb. mono and Trilene XT is my favorite mono, I'm looking at a .38mm diameter. However, if I wanted to stick with a .38mm diameter line, I could increase my line strength to 20 pound Sunline Sniper FC or even go up to 22lb. Sunline Defier mono! If I were wanting to use braid, I could use 50 pound Sufix or Power Pro and step down to a smaller line diameter. 

 

Even using your example, if my rod is rated for 15lb. diameter mono and I like Trilene XT, 14lb. XT gives me a .40mm diameter, which is the exact same diameter of 65lb. Sufix 832. 

 

The real reason a majority of rods break is:

 

Manufacturer defect

Damaged (during shipping, stepped on, pinched in a door, jammed into ceiling or truck bed, etc. Could break upon doing so or during extended use)

Locked drag (will cause line or rod to break)

High sticking/boat flipping

What I was talking about had absolutely nothing to do with line diameter. It was about the breaking strength. 

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8 hours ago, CroakHunter said:

Just because your rod says it can handle x lbs of line doesn't mean it breaks at this point. Youd be surprised how hard if is to pick up a half gallon milk jug straight off the ground using a heavy power rod. It feel like it's going to break and that's only 4lbs. 

Believe it or not, I’ve done a similar test with a gallon of water and my MH GX2. Did fine.  

 

My point was that once you exceed the recommended line for that rod, then you can’t blame the rod if it fails. 

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Wow! What replies.

 

Just match the diameter of the fluorocarbon or mono line with the diameter of the braid.

 

Keep it simple, please.

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Heck, I have CB'S with 10 and 20 lb braid.  Have never experienced a "digging in" problem

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When using braid, I try to match it up with the reel and the rod specifications. Then I will set the drag a little on the loose side. Locked down braid could lead to rod failure, and line dig in just to name a few.

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I don't EVER look at the line rating on a rod, only lure weight. I don't put 100lb test braid on a ML spinning rod but if my "frog rod" says it's rated up to 40lb line and I want to put 65lb on it...I put 65lb on it. Generally with braid like @roadwarrior said I stick to around 40lb on baitcasters and 20lb on spinning, I'll go up or down a bit depending on what technique(s) the setup is meant for but if I had one spinning and one casting setup that's what I would put on them. 40lb is good for stuff like jigs and t-rigs, not too heavy you can't use crankbaits or smaller stuff, and not too light you couldn't frog or do some light punching. 

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Don't pay much attention to the line ratings on a rod. Avoid doing things like jerking free from snags and flipping fish with braid as the shock will not be mitigated by line stretch. You need to set the drag properly to protect your rod from breakage as it is almost certainly the weakest link.

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This is from a guy I know that builds rods:

 

Quote

Just a few things I've learned about rods from actually building them:
Line ratings aren't just about strength/breakage of rods. It also has a lot to do with guide size, type, and layout. Smaller diameter, more supple lines flow through the guides in a completely different way then stiffer, thicker lines, and using the right line for a rod will give you better performance. On most factory rods using braid kind of negates that, since it's so supple. But a builder can sure as heck tune a rod to a specific line type and diameter. How much of this goes on and into a factory rod though, I dunno.

 

When you 'need' to use a rod's warranty....... They never ask what test line you had on when the rod broke. I've had a GLX, Croix Legend and even a Croix custom with an Avid Blank all receive warranty claims. Never did they ask me what size line I was using.

 

 

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