2 hours ago, CrankFate said:

I assume when the mfg gets a hot item, like the Tatula reel, it’s easy to get people to buy the “matching” rod. Most casting rods are pretty unimpressive. That’s why, IMO, it’s always so hard to find the ones you need.

This is so true, ever since I broke my favorite rod, crucial gen 2 dropshot specific rod, I have bought total of 5 rods new/used and still can’t find any rod that matched.

And then I come across this while searching for Shimano reels:

 

http://www.daiwa.com/scandinavia/contents/reels/pro_tw100sv/index.html

 

looks like a SV 2018 Tatula, by looking at the drag star and mag dial, but older style handles, not sure though...

Hrm the knobs are different on that one than the Tatula 100. 

2 hours ago, CrankFate said:

And then I come across this while searching for Shimano reels:

 

http://www.daiwa.com/scandinavia/contents/reels/pro_tw100sv/index.html

 

looks like a SV 2018 Tatula, by looking at the drag star and mag dial, but older style handles, not sure though...

It's been out since last year. The spool is the same style as the regular Tatula that utilizes a spool shaft. It's not free floating. 

Recently got the tatula CT...very impressed with how effortlessly it cast and pitches. Also drag seems very smooth and strong. 

11 hours ago, iabass8 said:

It's been out since last year. The spool is the same style as the regular Tatula that utilizes a spool shaft. It's not free floating. 

Interesting. Is it in the same package as the 2018?

7 hours ago, FCPhil said:

Recently got the tatula CT...very impressed with how effortlessly it cast and pitches. Also drag seems very smooth and strong. 

I know. I love Carbontex, but this is one reel that didn’t need it.

I'm smitten with the new Tatula 100 reels. I've ordered 3 already haha. They feel just right in my hands and in love the handles.  

 

For 90 bucks shipped these things seem like a no brainier. 

4 hours ago, punch said:

I'm smitten with the new Tatula 100 reels. I've ordered 3 already haha. They feel just right in my hands and in love the handles.  

 

For 90 bucks shipped these things seem like a no brainier. 

Put two SmoothDrag ABEC 5 bearings on the worm and one ceramic BOCA Abec 5 on the gearshaft on top of the anti reverse bearing and for $25, this is probably one of the best reels ever produced. I think? I never even casted it yet. 

53 minutes ago, CrankFate said:

Put two SmoothDrag ABEC 5 bearings on the worm and one ceramic BOCA Abec 5 on the gearshaft on top of the anti reverse bearing and for $25, this is probably one of the best reels ever produced. I think? I never even casted it yet. 

Not even close. It's a good casting reel, but what you did comes stock in their higher end reels except their drive shaft bearings are much higher quality than bocas ceramics.

 

Unless your upper drive shaft bearing was bad, spending extra money on a cermamic to put in its place is a useless waste of money..and this coming from a guy that spends a lot on aftermarket bearings and spools. That bearing does nothing except for on the retrieve. 

1 hour ago, iabass8 said:

Not even close. It's a good casting reel, but what you did comes stock in their higher end reels except their drive shaft bearings are much higher quality than bocas ceramics.

 

Unless your upper drive shaft bearing was bad, spending extra money on a cermamic to put in its place is a useless waste of money..and this coming from a guy that spends a lot on aftermarket bearings and spools. That bearing does nothing except for on the retrieve. 

It makes a dramatic difference in what the reel feels like. It feels refined like a much more expensive reel. Expensive reels are mainly charging $250 for $80 worth of Abec 7 bearings, with minor spool and brake variations to justify the up charge (and if we’re lucky lighter weight or more durable plastic). 

1 minute ago, CrankFate said:

It makes a dramatic difference in what the reel feels like. It feels refined like a much more expensive reel. Expensive reels are mainly charging $250 for $80 worth of Abec 7 bearings, with minor spool and brake variations to justify the up charge (and if we’re lucky lighter weight or more durable plastic).

If you're reel made some dramatic difference in feel between this ceramic upper AR bearing vs stock, you had a bad stock bearing. 

 

 

As somebody that owns multiple of these high end reels, cleans, fixes, maintains, and buys parts for.... no, you aren't getting 80$ worth of bearings in there. And they aren't being upsold for 250$.

24 minutes ago, iabass8 said:

If you're reel made some dramatic difference in feel between this ceramic upper AR bearing vs stock, you had a bad stock bearing. 

 

 

As somebody that owns multiple of these high end reels, cleans, fixes, maintains, and buys parts for.... no, you aren't getting 80$ worth of bearings in there. And they aren't being upsold for 250$.

I don’t know. According to the comparison tests on YouTube, that’s The main difference. And from seeing all different reels, most are on similar platforms, with hardly any difference between one price class to the next. The differences are largely on paper.

Again , as somebody that actually DOES know...as I own a lot of them, and repair/maintain mine and others, the difference in the reels isn't "80$ worth of bearings at a 250$ upgrade".  \

 

Bearing's don't "turn a reel from a 100$ reel to a 300$ reel! for 40$!". Youtube hype is just that. Hype and nonsense.  Flushing and cleaning stock bearings is all that ever has to be done. If it doesn't improve it, the bearing was bad. Spool bearings, depending in the quality, are the only thing were casting distance is improved and it's usually due to the bearing being more consistent and fluid than a stock one. levelwind, pinion, drive shaft, and upper drive shaft bearings don't get used in the way spool bearings get used. The RPM that are used are so low, a high end bearing/high ABEC rating has zero effect. It ONLY has to be smooth and free of any rough spots. Your throwing money away spending that on an upper drive shaft bearing...and this is again coming from somebody that will spend 40$ on ZPI spool bearings when stocks are bad. 

 

The differences between reels as they go up, is largely spool and tolerance related. The price point is called "enthusiast" for a reason. The reels are(Since we're talking about Dawia, we'll compare a Tatula 100 to a Steez SV TW) much smoother, the tolerances are tighter/perfect, and the spools are better/lighter. Spool bearings aren't much different between each class. Lubrication might be due to quality control.  It isn't a different braking system as you're calling it. It's a different inductor and type of spool.  There seems to be this misnomer that you'll be making these unicorn casts with a 500$ reel over a 100$ reel. Casting is almost all user. Take the tatula 100 vs the Zillion SV. You aren't going to cast the zillion, all things equal, some magical 30 more unnecessary yards further. \Higher end reels are bought for small nuances like perfect tolerances, upgraded handle materials, and spools to name a few things.  

8 hours ago, punch said:

I'm smitten with the new Tatula 100 reels. I've ordered 3 already haha. They feel just right in my hands and in love the handles.  

 

For 90 bucks shipped these things seem like a no brainier. 

Any chance you'd remember where ya bought em? 

42 minutes ago, iabass8 said:

Again , as somebody that actually DOES know...as I own a lot of them, and repair/maintain mine and others, the difference in the reels isn't "80$ worth of bearings at a 250$ upgrade".  \

 

Bearing's don't "turn a reel from a 100$ reel to a 300$ reel! for 40$!". Youtube hype is just that. Hype and nonsense.  Flushing and cleaning stock bearings is all that ever has to be done. If it doesn't improve it, the bearing was bad. Spool bearings, depending in the quality, are the only thing were casting distance is improved and it's usually due to the bearing being more consistent and fluid than a stock one. levelwind, pinion, drive shaft, and upper drive shaft bearings don't get used in the way spool bearings get used. The RPM that are used are so low, a high end bearing/high ABEC rating has zero effect. It ONLY has to be smooth and free of any rough spots. Your throwing money away spending that on an upper drive shaft bearing...and this is again coming from somebody that will spend 40$ on ZPI spool bearings when stocks are bad. 

 

The differences between reels as they go up, is largely spool and tolerance related. The price point is called "enthusiast" for a reason. The reels are(Since we're talking about Dawia, we'll compare a Tatula 100 to a Steez SV TW) much smoother, the tolerances are tighter/perfect, and the spools are better/lighter. Spool bearings aren't much different between each class. Lubrication might be due to quality control.  It isn't a different braking system as you're calling it. It's a different inductor and type of spool.  There seems to be this misnomer that you'll be making these unicorn casts with a 500$ reel over a 100$ reel. Casting is almost all user. Take the tatula 100 vs the Zillion SV. You aren't going to cast the zillion, all things equal, some magical 30 more unnecessary yards further. \Higher end reels are bought for small nuances like perfect tolerances, upgraded handle materials, and spools to name a few things.  

I'm about to change the topic completely, but since you've used so many of these reels I think you might know.... do leaders pass through the T-Wing system okay? I don't think that I would ever even need a leader that is long enough to go onto the reel where I live, but just in case I'd like to know. 

 

Harrison

15 minutes ago, BigBass'n_Harrison said:

Any chance you'd remember where ya bought em? 

I'm about to change the topic completely, but since you've used so many of these reels I think you might know.... do leaders pass through the T-Wing system okay? I don't think that I would ever even need a leader that is long enough to go onto the reel where I live, but just in case I'd like to know. 

 

Harrison

I've listened to Seth Feider say he uses some specific knot that passes through it without issues. I've read others do, too. Personally, I don't use leaders so I don't know. Straight braid or straight fluoro. 

57 minutes ago, iabass8 said:

Again , as somebody that actually DOES know...as I own a lot of them, and repair/maintain mine and others, the difference in the reels isn't "80$ worth of bearings at a 250$ upgrade".  \

 

Bearing's don't "turn a reel from a 100$ reel to a 300$ reel! for 40$!". Youtube hype is just that. Hype and nonsense.  Flushing and cleaning stock bearings is all that ever has to be done. If it doesn't improve it, the bearing was bad. Spool bearings, depending in the quality, are the only thing were casting distance is improved and it's usually due to the bearing being more consistent and fluid than a stock one. levelwind, pinion, drive shaft, and upper drive shaft bearings don't get used in the way spool bearings get used. The RPM that are used are so low, a high end bearing/high ABEC rating has zero effect. It ONLY has to be smooth and free of any rough spots. Your throwing money away spending that on an upper drive shaft bearing...and this is again coming from somebody that will spend 40$ on ZPI spool bearings when stocks are bad. 

 

The differences between reels as they go up, is largely spool and tolerance related. The price point is called "enthusiast" for a reason. The reels are(Since we're talking about Dawia, we'll compare a Tatula 100 to a Steez SV TW) much smoother, the tolerances are tighter/perfect, and the spools are better/lighter. Spool bearings aren't much different between each class. Lubrication might be due to quality control.  It isn't a different braking system as you're calling it. It's a different inductor and type of spool.  There seems to be this misnomer that you'll be making these unicorn casts with a 500$ reel over a 100$ reel. Casting is almost all user. Take the tatula 100 vs the Zillion SV. You aren't going to cast the zillion, all things equal, some magical 30 more unnecessary yards further. \Higher end reels are bought for small nuances like perfect tolerances, upgraded handle materials, and spools to name a few things.  

This is a great post. 

8 minutes ago, iabass8 said:

I've listened to Seth Feider say he uses some specific knot that passes through it without issues. I've read others do, too. Personally, I don't use leaders so I don't know. Straight braid or straight fluoro. 

I would use straight fluoro, I just hate using it to be honest. Every fluoro I have used has been super hard to control and just really curly and a pain. What is your favorite fluoro to use? And do you use line conditioner? 

5 minutes ago, BigBass'n_Harrison said:

I would use straight fluoro, I just hate using it to be honest. Every fluoro I have used has been super hard to control and just really curly and a pain. What is your favorite fluoro to use? And do you use line conditioner? 

Yes, I do use KVD line and lure from time to time. Usually I'll try to remember to spray it on after a trip or the night before. 

 

As far as favorite fluoros, I've settled on Shooter in 14-20 for anything bottom contact and sunline FC sniper/Sunline Reaction (now I think it's called fc crank) for most moving baits. I use 10# FC sniper for weightless and wacky senkos. Also use McCoy mean green for spinnerbaits and soft swimbaits. Cheap but it's some of the best handling/toughest stuff around. 

15 minutes ago, iabass8 said:

Yes, I do use KVD line and lure from time to time. Usually I'll try to remember to spray it on after a trip or the night before. 

 

As far as favorite fluoros, I've settled on Shooter in 14-20 for anything bottom contact and sunline FC sniper/Sunline Reaction (now I think it's called fc crank) for most moving baits. I use 10# FC sniper for weightless and wacky senkos. Also use McCoy mean green for spinnerbaits and soft swimbaits. Cheap but it's some of the best handling/toughest stuff around. 

Okay thanks for the info! 

13 hours ago, iabass8 said:

\Higher end reels are bought for small nuances like perfect tolerances, upgraded handle materials, and spools to name a few things.  

I know from seeing your posts, that you appreciate these nuances more than most people. I like them, too. And I always refer to the specs, like weight, spool size, handle size. But when I crack open a reel and see nearly the exact same reel, with a slightly different spool or spoolshaft and pinion or a bearing in place of a bushing or a bigger brake rotor—I curse the manufacturer for the big upcharge. I find that better bearings create the feel of “tighter tolerances.” I also believe that the big money is put into the engineering of the most popular reels that will see the most sales and this trickles up to the high end, where it is rebuilt on fancier or lighter materials. In the end, I am too cheap to be pleased by having to spend another $100 per nuance, when I can make an even lighter, better performing reel with aftermarket parts for the same price or less.

 

 

Any opinions on the tatula spinning rods? I'm looking at picking one up as an all around finnese rod to go with a Tatula lt 2500 

16 minutes ago, Joshua van Wyk said:

Any opinions on the tatula spinning rods? I'm looking at picking one up as an all around finnese rod to go with a Tatula lt 2500 

I have a 6'6" medium Tatula (new cork handle style) paired with a Tatula  LT 3000 and it's the lightest most balanced rig. It's great for tons of different applications. Check Ebay there's some for $98.00. fantastic rods.

On 1/8/2019 at 6:49 PM, iabass8 said:

The new 100 is a nice reel. Stock bearings needed to be flushed and one of the 2 i have were a little dry in the gears but that was an easy fix. The store that outfits sportsmans ( i think you can figure out who that is) sells the new tatula for 99$ /w free shipping. 

I have a TTU Tatula 100 that is super smooth feeling and really nice but seems loud when reeling. Kind of like a gear on gear sound. It's smooth just a little noisy. You know what could cause that? Maybe something is screwy  in mine?

I also have a new Tatula 150 that is super smooth and quiet. Any ideas?

4 hours ago, waymont said:

I have a 6'6" medium Tatula (new cork handle style) paired with a Tatula  LT 3000 and it's the lightest most balanced rig. It's great for tons of different applications. Check Ebay there's some for $98.00. fantastic rods.

I have a TTU Tatula 100 that is super smooth feeling and really nice but seems loud when reeling. Kind of like a gear on gear sound. It's smooth just a little noisy. You know what could cause that? Maybe something is screwy  in mine?

I also have a new Tatula 150 that is super smooth and quiet. Any ideas?

Probably a little dry from factory. Re grease the main and pinion

10 hours ago, waymont said:

I have a 6'6" medium Tatula (new cork handle style) paired with a Tatula  LT 3000 and it's the lightest most balanced rig. It's great for tons of different applications. Check Ebay there's some for $98.00. fantastic rods.

I have a TTU Tatula 100 that is super smooth feeling and really nice but seems loud when reeling. Kind of like a gear on gear sound. It's smooth just a little noisy. You know what could cause that? Maybe something is screwy  in mine?

I also have a new Tatula 150 that is super smooth and quiet. Any ideas?

I have a CT Type R, same deal as yours. I've cleaned and re lubed it, still noisy on a fast retrieve, but relatively quiet during a normal retrieve under load. 

I had a new Tatula 7'6" med heavy rod for a short time.  Absolutely loved the rod but it had a fatal flaw for me.  It uses micro guides, which I didn't realize when I ordered it.

 

Actually took it fishing for a day.  Such a good rod, but I use braid to leader, so it was a no-go.