Ok enough about the fundamentals, now on to the applications.

Gear: This is a topic constantly debated concerning drop shotting. Some prefer spinning gear, and some prefer casting, both of which can be used effectively. My preference is a large spool diameter spinning rig due to the fact that when cast out, you can allow the rig to sink more vertically than with casting gear by leaving the bail open. A spinning reel is also more conducive to casting a very light rig with minimal problems for the less experienced, or like myself, less coordinated angler. To minimize problems that a spinning reel might cause concerning line twist, I almost always use a swivel. Generally the smallest swivel you can practically use, placed about 6 inches above the hook will cause the least difficulties in casting, and the most benefits from reduced line twist. I like a pretty light action 6'10 to 7' rod with a fast tip for sensitivity, but flexible enough to absorb an abrupt deep run from a big fish. The medium light action 6'10 browning medallion rod teamed with a daiwa regal reel does the lions share of my dropshotting work under normal conditions.

Line: The smallest diameter line you feel comfortable with is best. Forget about what the strength rating of the line is, you can compensate for sacrificed strength by loosening the drag on your reel. Using very small diameter line allows for less resistance when moving through the water. It's sort of like the difference between carrying a 4'x8' sheet of plywood in a 20 mph wind or a toothpick in a 20 mph wind. The smaller profile toothpick is going to create much less resistance. Similarly, smaller diameter line has less resistance and this provides for better feel and better control. I personally prefer using 6lb invisx made by seagar. It is fluorocarbon, and has the smallest diameter per strength rating as compared to other lines. I also prefer the fluorocarbon due to the fact that it's denser which makes it more sensitive. The density also allows it to sink which causes less swag in the line on a long cast. A less expensive and lower maintenance line that I have found will work is 8 or 6lb p-line floroclear.

Weight: I have seldom encountered a situation where a heavier than needed weight out performed a lighter weight. That is to say, I find it most effective to use the lightest weight possible that allows me to maintain control of my rig, and contact with the cover or structural features I wish to fish. I personally prefer the long skinny weights such as the mojo brand in 1/4 or 5/32 oz. Other weight configurations might be as effective for some situations such as sand or mud bottoms, but the long skinny (smaller profile) type will move through grass and rocks and brush with fewer hang ups and can be used on cleaner bottoms as well. When you do get hung up, and you will get hung up, it is generally possible to jiggle the rig loose by moving it up and down on the obstruction by allowing slack and then applying very slight tension. The worst thing you can do when you do get snagged is to pull hard against the snag as this will generally either embed the hook, or bend the weight, and make it more difficult to free your rig. Also when you do encounter an obstruction, use it to bounce the lure around a little. Many times this is one of the best ways to entice a bite from a fish that might not otherwise be interested, and the fish will generally swim away from the snag upon eating the lure.

Hooks: I have gone through a number of types of hooks looking for the right one. The best hook I have found I realized while catfishing with my father-in-law who was at the time a state record holder for blue cat and had multiple 50-80lbers to his name (he knew what he was doing). He was using gamakatsu octopus hooks with a shad wormed on, and it seemed he never missed a fish though he almost never set the hook. This clued me in on the effectiveness of these hooks for a passive hookset like the one used with the dropshot. Since then I almost exclusively use this type of hook. The difference I have found is that less tension is needed to stay hooked up with the octopus hook as compared to other style hooks. This is a great help considering the light line issues as well as the propensity of a bass to jump and throw a hook. The size hook used needs to be as small as practically possible taking into consideration the size of your bait and the quarry your after. The other types and styles like the stand out type hooks on the market aren't by any means a poor choice either, but for consistency, I prefer the octopus.

Knots: Probably the most overlooked element of a sound drop shot rig are the knots used on the swivel and the hook. The dense nature of fluorocarbon line dictates that a knot such as the improved clinch or cinch or trilene knot be used whenever possible to keep from pinching the line. This type of knot should be used on both sides of the swivel, but when attaching the hook a Palomar is necessary. The Palomar knot on the hook allows for the tag end of the line to be passed from the top through the hook eye after the knot has been tied. Passing the tag end back through the eye of the hook will cause the hook to stand out if done correctly when pressure is applied to the tag end as it would be from the weight.

Lure Selection: Of course lure selection is a personal preference or regionally dictated issue when it comes to color and style, but the following are a few types of lures I have found to produce consistently for me.

3/4/5 inch Yum Dinger, Kinami Flash, Tiki Stik, Senko

4/6 inch Yamamoto Cut tail worm

4/6 inch Robo straight tail finesse worm or fat worm (very buoyant)

Zoom Finnesse Worm (Very Bouyant)

PowerBait Shakey worm

Zoom baby or tiny brush hog

Manns hard nose finesse worm (very buoyant)

Gulp- Just about anything that will fit on a little hook will catch just about anything that swims

I rarely if ever wacky rig anything on a drop shot. Wacky style worms on a drop shot can work really well for bedding bass, but seem to produce quite a few missed strikes otherwise.

Check out Ike's DVD, Tactics for Tough Conditions.

It is a great resourse for drop shot rigs.

And he shows you how to rig the drop shot.

Ike's DVD? I think FIN-S-R pretty much covered it  

Good read!  Thanks!!  

Thanks! I also use Seaguar Invizx at 6# myself.  I use theose octopus hooks for my salmon fishing in rivers and they seem realy close in design to the split shot/drop shot hooks I use for drop shotting in size 1,2,or 4.

Although they are getting harder to find, I like the tear drop shaped weights that are made locally in my area or cylindrical ones if I can't find the former.

Ike's DVD? I think FIN-S-R pretty much covered it  

Yeah, I think FIN-S-R covered it very well.  Nice read.

Double installment on fishing a drop shot.

Outstanding!

8-)

RW,

Theres more to come..I hope U dont mind my taking up the space.

FIN-S-R nice 8-)

WOW....never knew this technique....will have to give her a go!

Great articles. I just read all of them and they are all great. Thanks for sharing.