Ok so I’ve always wanted to get into using cranbaits and jerkbaits, but i am confused on some stuff. Like, how do you know how deep is it running? How do you know it’s already rubbing at the right depth. These questions go along with the crank bait. But, on the Crankbait what depth sizes should I get? I mainly fish rivers and lakes. 

It's a good question,  but not easily answered.   Start with manufacturer's specs.  Then adjust for line type and any hardware changes.  Helps I'd you know the depth you are working.  This thread won't really answer your question, but will go a ways towards making you a better crankbait angler

 

Berkely Dredgers dive to advertised  depth with 12 lb Big Game . I have all sizes and have caught bass as deep as 22 to 24 foot with 25.5 Dredger . Norman Deep little N's are a good bet when fishing around 10 foot . 

Everything below needs to be read with the understanding that crankbaits and jerkbaits have vastly different use cases.

 

Most all of of the diving/suspending hard baits will have something on the packaging to denote the depth which that lure is intended to reach.

 

Be aware that, generally speaking, most companies will intend for that depth to be reached with 10lb line when reeling it in. Heavier line may not dive as far (because of the resistance of the line in the water), and thinner line might dive a little deeper.

 

If so inclined, one can have a plug operate shallower or deeper by simply changing the speed of their retrieve.

 

Now, if somebody had never thrown a crankbait before and wanted to get into it and also didn't really have a good idea of the depth where they were fishing, I'd suggest they start with some sort of squarebill that dives down to 5 FOW or so, purely because the shape of the bill kind of protects the hook behind the bill and will help you keep from getting snagged quite as often. If one wanted to get comfortable with a shallow crankbait, it would behoove them to find some riprap and cast parallel-ish to it, then reel it back so that it's deflecting against the tops of those rocks. That causes the action to dart about randomly, and makes bass pretty nuts if one is about.

 

For jerkbaits, start with something that can suspend at 4-6 FOW or so. Generally, you'll use a low side popping motion to get the lure to flit about as if it is an injured baitfish. To keep it higher in the water column, you can pop with an upwards motion. The effective length of the pause between those pops is variable depending on water temperature and the mood of the bass.

 

Trolling is a whole 'nother kettle of fish, and I don't know enough about it to get into much detail.

 

What type of line would you guys prefer? Like braid with a leader? Fluorocarbon? Mono? Copolymer? What pound line should I start out with? Thank you guys

Straight mono for me, preferably 10 pound if the conditions allow. 
 

Line diameter as already mentioned can influence the depth it will travel as can the speed of your retrieve. 
 

 

I typically have 12# fluoro on main cranking rod; 10# flouro on light cranking rod; 20#braid to 10#fluoro leader on jerkbait rod; 8# fluoro on really light (spinning) crank/jerk rod.

But I reserve the right to throw any on 8 or 10 # YZH....unless I'm throwing deep cranks which might be with 12#YZH.....all subject to change and further experimentation 

8-12# in fluoro, mono, or co-poly is good.  30-40# in braid.  Each line has it's advantages and disadvantages, and a lot will depend on what lures you're throwing (how deep they dive) and what rod you have it paired with.  But mostly it's a personal preference thing.  You just have to try something and find out if you like it or not.  What you're wanting to do with balance how much line stretch you need with how much rod flex you have.  And using the line's resistance in water (line thickness, though with braid it's shape will also determine drag) to help control depth and how quickly it gets down.  

Thank you guys 

Boat or bank angler?

From a boat you can control what depth you are fishing and direction you cast, lots of options.

From shore you can only cast out. You can fan cast however the bank is shallow out is deeper. Diving crankbaits go deeper as you retreive the lure towards you where it’s shallower, it’s going to hit bottom.

Look at Tackle Warehouse site, they list maximum running depth for both cranks and jerks. Maximum depth rarely is achieved using about 2’ less for the average cast of 90’ using 10- 12 lb mono.

Tom

Pick out a few cranks that run at different depths and run them in areas where you know the depth.

Tip

Crankbaits trigger more strikes when they either deflect off cover, or the bottom, OR when they change speeds, or angles. The first is simple, find cover and run the crank into it and pause a second. The second is done by the angler, alternating speeds and angles during the retrieve.