So I live in California and one of my lakes is crystal clear with tons of vegetation. I was wondering if my lake doesn't have a thermocline because it doesn't drop super cold at the bottom, it looks something like this

26.4

25.7

25.8

22.4

21.0

25.0

So would this mean the thermocline is at 22.4 to 21 is? Or if so why is it even warmer at the bottom, perhaps there is no thermocline? Just curious thanks!

You are going to have to re-word this . What are those numbers representing ?

A picture is worth a thousand words.  Those numbers alone don’t tell me anything.  Do you know what a thermocline looks like on your depth finder screen?

I’m assuming your numbers are temperature values in Celsius.         We would need some depths to go with those numbers to have any clue what you’re looking at.    Most people use their sonar to find the thermocline.  

The thermocline is usually considered as the depth at which the temperature gradient is steepest during the summer. But the technical definition states this gradient must be at least 1 degree Celsius per meter of depth.

 

As others have mentioned, you can’t determine if one has formed yet based on the data you posted since we have no idea at what depths any of those readings came from. You probably have that info though, so you might still be able to answer your own question. It likely is not the coldest band of water like you mentioned, though.

Most SoCal lakes develop a thermocline by mid July around 35’ when the surface water temps have multiple weeks above 78 degrees. 

You have warmer temps at the last entry indicating current, so no thermocline. Current is created by drawing water at the dam or aeration system near the dam. The temps dropping 4+ degrees within a few feet and continuing to be cooler deeper would indicate a thermal layer has developed.

Tom

 

On 6/26/2021 at 5:51 AM, Jig Man said:

A picture is worth a thousand words.  Those numbers alone don’t tell me anything.  Do you know what a thermocline looks like on your depth finder screen?

I don't have a high end one that marks it, it's an older model

18 hours ago, WRB said:

Most SoCal lakes develop a thermocline by mid July around 35’ when the surface water temps have multiple weeks above 78 degrees. 

You have warmer temps at the last entry indicating current, so no thermocline. Current is created by drawing water at the dam or aeration system near the dam. The temps dropping 4+ degrees within a few feet and continuing to be cooler deeper would indicate a thermal layer has developed.

Tom

 

Okay thankyou Tom, this is great to know thanks ?! 

On 6/26/2021 at 6:08 AM, Tennessee Boy said:

I’m assuming your numbers are temperature values in Celsius.         We would need some depths to go with those numbers to have any clue what you’re looking at.    Most people use their sonar to find the thermocline.  

I'm using a lake report and yeah it's in Celsius, thanks for this information, and I don't have a high end sonar so it doesn't work

On 6/26/2021 at 4:46 AM, scaleface said:

You are going to have to re-word this . What are those numbers representing ?

Celsius temps in inclines of 10ft going deeper

23 hours ago, Team9nine said:

The thermocline is usually considered as the depth at which the temperature gradient is steepest during the summer. But the technical definition states this gradient must be at least 1 degree Celsius per meter of depth.

 

As others have mentioned, you can’t determine if one has formed yet based on the data you posted since we have no idea at what depths any of those readings came from. You probably have that info though, so you might still be able to answer your own question. It likely is not the coldest band of water like you mentioned, though.

It's in increments of 10ft, I forgot to put that and its in Celsius 

9 minutes ago, PressuredFishing said:

I don't have a high end one that marks it, it's an older model

All my depth finders located the thermocline . Even the old flashers .

Most sonar units won't mark the thermocline.  What you have to do is play around with the sensitivity, and you'll often see a flat line that appears all over the lake, that hovers at a pretty consistent distance from the top.  You usually have to set the sensitivity high enough that you get a bit of interference showing up on your screen.  So if your sonar is set to auto, it usually will turn itself down to avoid the interference, and often won't show you the thermocline.  So you'll often have to set it to manual and dial up the sensitivity to see it.  

The 1st sentence isn’t accurate and go on to point this out.

Auto settings limit the sonar units performance so learn how to use it to full capability. 

Background clutter isn’t interference it’s particulates suspended in the water. 

You can see a thermocline using the old 60’ generation flashers run up near max sensitive.

Tom

23 hours ago, WRB said:

The 1st sentence isn’t accurate and go on to point this out.

Auto settings limit the sonar units performance so learn how to use it to full capability. 

Background clutter isn’t interference it’s particulates suspended in the water. 

You can see a thermocline using the old 60’ generation flashers run up near max sensitive.

Tom

Will try to mess around with it a little next time I'm on water, thanks!