Say a curado 150MGL;

 

max out the brakes?  Knob on 4?  Just wondering.  Thanks. 

Skipping with a Shimano.  Just the thought of this makes me anxious.  Lots of spool tension would be my starting point.  Brakes to max. 

I skipped a lot with that reel in the spring and some in summer. Whatever tension setting you like on your MGL, keep it there for skipping. Doesn’t need to change a bit. What I found does need to change… is the brakes. I tune my brakes up a couple or few points from where I normally cast at. I think my normal break setting with the MGL 150 is hovering around 3, but with skipping I have it at 5 or 4.5 usually and sometimes even 6.

Disclaimer: I have a bad memory and it’s been a while since spring. My numbers might be +/- 1. The point is… I turn the brakes up slightly

5 minutes ago, Tatulatard said:

Skipping with a Shimano.  Just the thought of this makes me anxious

It is easy with the Curado MGL 150 and I ain’t kidding. It is a fine reel

5 hours ago, LrgmouthShad said:

I skipped a lot with that reel in the spring and some in summer. Whatever tension setting you like on your MGL, keep it there for skipping. Doesn’t need to change a bit. What I found does need to change… is the brakes. I tune my brakes up a couple or few points from where I normally cast at. I think my normal break setting with the MGL 150 is hovering around 3, but with skipping I have it at 5 or 4.5 usually and sometimes even 6.

Disclaimer: I have a bad memory and it’s been a while since spring. My numbers might be +/- 1. The point is… I turn the brakes up slightly

It is easy with the Curado MGL 150 and I ain’t kidding. It is a fine reel

Do you skip with spool tension of set it so there is a tiny bit of play?

Once you learn how to do it I like spool tension very low and usually higher break settings

10 minutes ago, Tatulatard said:

Do you skip with spool tension of set it so there is a tiny bit of play? 

I used to set tension with not a lot of method to my madness. Just liked a loose fall for whatever bait I was using and a rough idea of what that loose fall is. I’ve been playing around with setting spool tension for “neutral” tension and like that too. Where there is no side to side play but no tightness either.  
 

I don’t think the tension setting is all that important. I do think that having brakes set higher is highly beneficial for skipping. G. Swindle in a vid says that tightening spool tension down tight can actually cause you to want to overthrow, and I tend to agree. The way I skip is just a low roll cast from kayak and I don’t throw terribly hard. I use my thumb very aggressively when skipping and try to predict what the bait is doing as it is skipping and adjust thumb pressure accordingly. Bottom line is my thumb control is much more aggressive than if I’m just casting. 

My skipping/dock combo has a 20 metanium and I use the same settings as any other reel. Minimal side to side movement with variable braking. 
 

Skipping is a technique that’s 90% user and 10% gear…and most of that 10% is taken up by having a bait that will actually skip effectively. I would just practice, try to get good with any given, reasonable combo and not worry about the braking. If you HAVE TO rely on heavy braking for certain techniques, you’re going to need to fiddle with your brakes on the fly or use dedicated equipment. Your thumb is your best friend in these situations and training it isn’t a major hassle, truly. Plus, you’ll always have all the braking you need right at your disposal. 

More art than science.   I skipped for a couple years by cranking up the tension....which worked, but I didn't like the loss of sensitivity via the reel handle.  Someone here...forget who...suggested I leave the tension and adjust the brakes.  Which is what I do, now.  I skip with same jig or trig rod in my hand, but turn the brakes up...usually about 4 clicks, but I'm not counting or measuring....gets to be habit...if I go from a cast to a pitch, I'll click the brakes up one or two clicks...find what works for you and your gear.  Practice skipping even when you don't have to

On 9/17/2022 at 9:06 PM, LrgmouthShad said:

I used to set tension with not a lot of method to my madness. Just liked a loose fall for whatever bait I was using and a rough idea of what that loose fall is. I’ve been playing around with setting spool tension for “neutral” tension and like that too. Where there is no side to side play but no tightness either.  
 

I don’t think the tension setting is all that important. I do think that having brakes set higher is highly beneficial for skipping. G. Swindle in a vid says that tightening spool tension down tight can actually cause you to want to overthrow, and I tend to agree. The way I skip is just a low roll cast from kayak and I don’t throw terribly hard. I use my thumb very aggressively when skipping and try to predict what the bait is doing as it is skipping and adjust thumb pressure accordingly. Bottom line is my thumb control is much more aggressive than if I’m just casting. 

Sounds like you're a great skipper rather than the reel being a great skipper.  I considered myself a good skipper because I do it all the time with my sv reels.  I took my slx mgl out and it was an eye opener.  Initially I made great skips and was questioning the need for sv spools until I wasn't make great skips anymore.  I apparently have the habit of forcing a skip and throwing a bait out there a bad angle to force a cast as I am being blown past a spot on my kayak or my paddle in my lap will get in the way and I'll make a bad skip with a bad angle. Bad skips look funny but still skip backlash free with my sv tatulas.  Not the case with mgl.  I absolutely get severely punished for a bad skip with mgl spools with svs brakes.  I ended up having to really think through every skip instead of just hammering the bank with an sv reel with my brain off.  Eventually I blew the spool up beyond my ability to dig it out and that was the end of it.  Too much risk for no reward for me to want to continue. 

Not great at skipping, but I am trying to get a feel for it.

 

During my learning curve, I am findung a good mag brake works better for me than a centrifugal brake as the spool speeds aren't really high enough during the skipping for the brake to help me, while the mag brakes are always on and trying to help slow the spool.

 

Like said in the post above,... I've had a MUCH easier time with my SV reels than anything else. Others like the MGL and Lews Pro SP helped a little on good casts, but also are more punishing when I screw up. Though the Pro SP is easier to pick out with the extremely shallow spool.

6 hours ago, Tatulatard said:

Sounds like you're a great skipper rather than the reel being a great skipper.  I considered myself a good skipper because I do it all the time with my sv reels.  I took my slx mgl out and it was an eye opener.  Initially I made great skips and was questioning the need for sv spools until I wasn't make great skips anymore.  I apparently have the habit of forcing a skip and throwing a bait out there a bad angle to force a cast as I am being blown past a spot on my kayak or my paddle in my lap will get in the way and I'll make a bad skip with a bad angle. Bad skips look funny but still skip backlash free with my sv tatulas.  Not the case with mgl.  I absolutely get severely punished for a bad skip with mgl spools with svs brakes.  I ended up having to really think through every skip instead of just hammering the bank with an sv reel with my brain off.  Eventually I blew the spool up beyond my ability to dig it out and that was the end of it.  Too much risk for no reward for me to want to continue. 

thanks.  i think i understand.  

My hats off to you….all of you that skip a bait caster. I went back to a spinning rig. I got tired of it blowing up and then, the time spent picking it out.
I use bait casters for everything else but finesse and skipping. 

1 hour ago, GRiver said:

My hats off to you….all of you that skip a bait caster. I went back to a spinning rig. I got tired of it blowing up and then, the time spent picking it out.

Reason I have an MH/F spinning rig....

I leave all the settings the same as I have them for regular casting, and use my thumb to compensate.

At least you didn't ask what the best set up was for skipping!  I stopped replying on here and another site because the technique trumps the gear all day everyday. Anyway, my stuff is loose on the Shimanos.  Spool has side to side play, internal brakes are basically off and external dail is whatever it happens to be on. Daiwa SVs are similar, very little braking from the reel.  Too much tension will make the lure fly high and left (assuming you cast right handed, opposite of you're a lefty) and too much braking will limit your distance.  If I had to choose, start with low tension and higher braking, especially with lighter lures. I've suggested in the past high tension/low brakes when learning but that's with heavier baits that are easy to skip.  Once you get the stroke, loosen it up. I still blow up a reel here and there but not very often. 

On 9/17/2022 at 4:24 PM, Darth-Baiter said:

Say a curado 150MGL;

 

max out the brakes?  Knob on 4?  Just wondering.  Thanks. 

 

I've held back on replying to this thread since I'm far from an expert on skipping.  Heck, I couldn't do it until a couple months ago and I still can't do it reliably on the water.  That said, I do it in the pool pretty much on command with almost all of my combos (shimano, diawa, abu).  I'm hopeful that what I've learned teaching myself can help you.

 

The technique is more important that the settings once you get it.  Until then, use settings to help yourself out.  I watched various videos including Andy montgomery and bassfishingHQ.  I started with my brakes on full and the spool tension set pretty high (slow fall of the lure, no over rotation).  The only way I could skip like that was with a heavy soft swimbait (1.5 oz) and a very moderate rod.  I didn't backlash (how could i with those settings?!?) but distance was short.  Over time, I played with less tension, less brakes, other lures, etc.  Eventually it clicked that the rod action was more important.  A gradual acceleration was the key.  I found doing a 360 roll cast where you accelerate through the last quarter of the roll let the rod load up before the final acceleration of the lure.  Then after you've released the spool continue the motion of the rod up to 11 o'clock.  To make things easier on yourself, pick a heavy plastic to start with.  A toad is a good choice.  I still leave my brakes pretty high for the instances where I release the spool just a little early and smack the water at the boat.  It helps save a bit of overrun.  I've lightened up my spool tension a lot, though not to the same level as when I'm casting.

 

 

I am just learning to skip with a baitcaster. Tried for the last two years, but just couldn't get the hang of it. No problem with a spinning combo but it took the recent purchase of a Daiwa Alphas SV TW for me to start learning the technique without blowing up every other cast.

 

I envy the anglers that can use any reel with any setting to skip, I hope to get there someday. For now, I need the training wheels approach until I gain the muscle memory of the cast and the thumb control.

 

The Daiwa SV reels really help and I have also learned that a softer action rod really helps load the rod without whipping the cast. I actually need to re-learn skipping with a spinning rod and not whip the cast, I am aiming for using the same casting motion for both types of rods. For me, consistentancy is the key to muscle memory. For now, I keep practicing every time I go out. 

56 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

I've held back on replying to this thread since I'm far from an expert on skipping.  Heck, I couldn't do it until a couple months ago and I still can't do it reliably on the water.  That said, I do it in the pool pretty much on command with almost all of my combos (shimano, diawa, abu).  I'm hopeful that what I've learned teaching myself can help you.

 

The technique is more important that the settings once you get it.  Until then, use settings to help yourself out.  I watched various videos including Andy montgomery and bassfishingHQ.  I started with my brakes on full and the spool tension set pretty high (slow fall of the lure, no over rotation).  The only way I could skip like that was with a heavy soft swimbait (1.5 oz) and a very moderate rod.  I didn't backlash (how could i with those settings?!?) but distance was short.  Over time, I played with less tension, less brakes, other lures, etc.  Eventually it clicked that the rod action was more important.  A gradual acceleration was the key.  I found doing a 360 roll cast where you accelerate through the last quarter of the roll let the rod load up before the final acceleration of the lure.  Then after you've released the spool continue the motion of the rod up to 11 o'clock.  To make things easier on yourself, pick a heavy plastic to start with.  A toad is a good choice.  I still leave my brakes pretty high for the instances where I release the spool just a little early and smack the water at the boat.  It helps save a bit of overrun.  I've lightened up my spool tension a lot, though not to the same level as when I'm casting.

 

 

LOL! It's the smacking the water at the boat that gets me too!! ? i know I'm in trouble as soon as it happens and look down and see trouble. Especially if you hear the dreaded pfffft sound!! ??