I'm up to page 57 now. Lots of good info.

 

The anchor locks of which I speak are like this. Though the ones I'm using were old and rusty and I've refurbished and painted them.

Here's how I'm currently moving my Bass Buster.  I can lift it up by myself, but its right at my limit. Usually a friend helps me, and then benefits by fishing from it when we get there. I want a hitch and trailer, but... for now, it works

 

 

We are using paddles only, and not getting into big water. I'll have to title and register it before I can use a trolling motor, unfortunately. 

 

My boat has pretty tall side rails, and I'm working on figuring out some horizontal rod holders for it. I figure 2 rods on each side, and it will still allow the cooler and live well to be opened, though not quite fully.

 

Anyone out there made this modification and want to share?

I'm on page 101 now.

 

I'm thinking ahead to an outboard. I have a few questions.

 

I'll preface it by saying I'm completely new to outboard motors and to using them on these types of boats. My boat is rated for 5 HP.

 

If I happened upon a 6HP, would it be okay? Is it against some law to use one that is larger than the boat is rated? I am not looking for max power, just curious. 

 

Conversly, if I happened upon a 3.5 or 4 HP, would that be plenty enough or would I wish to have a 5HP? I think they made like 2.5hp... what about one of them? 

 

I'm not actively looking for an outboard, but I am keeping my eyes peeled for whatever comes my way because I am looking to the future.

 

My usage would be both on rivers and lakes.

I only have experience with the 55 trolling motor, but even that when goosed makes the plastic transom flex a good bit. If I went with a gas motor I’d pay attn to how much flex it causes and try to keep from applying too much torque all at once. If the weight and size of a 6 isn’t that much different from a 5, then go for it, just pay attn when you first start off.

 

I suppose you could call someone like Pelican, and ask the same question, just tell them you have a Bass Raider.

My boat is a Buster Boat by Splash Marine. It has a metal transom plate over plastic and I think, but don't know for sure, that it has wood on the inside. 

Same as the Raiders.

I recently purchased a bass raider. It's in my shop and I'm outfitting it now. I've already documented it with a couple of  youtube vids. Lotsa fun.

I lost track of where I was, glad that I posted what page I was on up there. Lots of information and ideas to sort through.

 

I have a question.

 

In the past I used 2 anchors, one on the bow and one on the stern, which was needed to keep the boat from drifting in the wind. I just tied the anchor line to the handle...

 

I am thinking about adding an anchor mount to my Buster Boat. I have actually made one for the bow, but haven't installed it yet, since boat building was on hold for some other things.

 

I did NOT have a rudder. My question is: Once I do have a rudder, will I still need 2 anchors, or will a bow anchor be enough?

I tried a rudder on the far end of the boat but didn’t like it, more trouble than it was worth, I do however use one of the Bullnose rudders.

 

I use 1 anchor, although I have 2. For me it’s like the canoe, I just need to pick which corner I need to anchor from. I use zig zag cleats, and yes, the canoe has 4 cleats too. The only time I use 2 anchors is if the wind requires it, most of the time 1 stays in the truck. My anchors are 3.5 and 7 lb lead filled pvc pipe.

On 2/23/2018 at 2:14 PM, Canam13 said:

Hello all,

I want to put 1 or 2 drains (front&back) in the inside of my BR10e, to make it easier to remove water from inside the boat. I've read that the floor is higher than water line, so sealing should be easy. Would anyone know how thick the floor is, so I can buy the proper thru-hull or bulkhead fitting?

I am also considering using a 1" ID size fitting for the drain and using the drain as a through point for a shallow water anchor spike. Anyone ever try or accomplish that on their BR?

That's a good idea, thanks.

My Bass Buster has the foam saturated with water, I got a plan there. I am wondering what the difference in stability will be like between the boat now with 100+ pounds of water in the foam, vs how it'll be when I replace it? Will I notice a difference?

 

Right now the boat is "stable" but it does feel somewhat tippy, though it's not tippy, just feels like it when leaning to the sides.

 

I'm on page 117 now.

I finally finished reading through this whole thread.

 

I purchased a 55 lb thrust Endura Max trolling motor shortly after tax season. Ain't picked up a battery or registered it yet. But I got the big one out of the way. I still haven't cured the water logged foam, but I've pondered it some more.

I inherited another BR last fall, an 8’er. It sat in my neighbors yard for something like 4 years, full of sludge. Took 4 to break it loose from the muck it was in, dragged it home with the mower, pulled the plugs and the rod holders, tipped it over to drain (it the rod holder holes), then stood it on end, drains down, for the winter. The pontoons were pretty much full when I started. I was pleasantly surprised to find it only weighed 5 lbs more than what Pelican says it weighed when new.

 

Best I can tell the floatation isn’t water logged, even when full of water for years. It seems to float and motor around no problem although I have yet to try fishing out of it.

22 minutes ago, padlin said:

I inherited another BR last fall, an 8’er. It sat in my neighbors yard for something like 4 years, full of sludge. Took 4 to break it loose from the muck it was in, dragged it home with the mower, pulled the plugs and the rod holders, tipped it over to drain (it the rod holder holes), then stood it on end, drains down, for the winter. The pontoons were pretty much full when I started. I was pleasantly surprised to find it only weighed 5 lbs more than what Pelican says it weighed when new.

 

Best I can tell the floatation isn’t water logged, even when full of water for years. It seems to float and motor around no problem although I have yet to try fishing out of it.

You're quite blessed that your foam is not water logged. Congrats on the new boat.

I have one, I got a bass boat seat and replaced the factory one. I go alone, so I only need one seat,  Lots more comfortable. As to the anchor, I just put an eye bolt through the plastic upper lip, where the molded compartments are on top, sides. Just used lots of caulk around the bolt/washer. Seems to work ok. 

I finally finished my harbor freight trailer!! The winch holder is a spare tire mount from harbor freight. I added 2x4 side bunks, 4x8 3/4 plywood wrapped in outdoor carpet, painted to match my truck, and rewired with soldered and shrink wrapped connections. I also made all the ground wires go to one point and raised the rear lights by placing them on the 2x4 rails. It keeps them out of the water and easier to see. I love this little boat! Let's see more mods....keep this thread alive!

 

 

Would love to see this thread kick back up. A lot of the old pictures are no longer available. 

I've used mine 1 time in over a year since getting a bass boat.

They do fish well and are comfortable but loading it and unloading it on the back of the truck got redundant.

3 hours ago, Bird said:

I've used mine 1 time in over a year since getting a bass boat.

They do fish well and are comfortable but loading it and unloading it on the back of the truck got redundant.

As I got older and did a suspension mod to my truck to to my camper, it did get harder to load the BR in the back of my truck. I broke down and bought a 4x10 trailer earlier this year. I could't be happier I did. I also recently purchased a Lithium battery Which weighs half as much as the Lead Acid 29 series battery I had. 

Has anyone checked the mileage when towing a bass raider 10? What did it drop your mpgs to?

On 7/20/2025 at 4:16 PM, Bazoo said:

Has anyone checked the mileage when towing a bass raider 10? What did it drop your mpgs to?

What are you hauling it with that your worried about MPG? Shouldn't make a difference. might drop 1 or 2 MPG if your pulling on a heavy trailer.

4 hours ago, Reaper73 said:

What are you hauling it with that your worried about MPG? Shouldn't make a difference. might drop 1 or 2 MPG if your pulling on a heavy trailer.

Well, I'm not hauling it currently, as I don't have a trailer that's suitable. The vehicle I'll be using is a 2001 Chevy Tracker. I get around 30 miles to the gallon on the highway.

 

I've towed a trailer with a dodge cummins for work, but never was concerned about the mileage, with work buying the fuel.

Hi,

New to the forum, and new bass raider owner here.   I have read through many of these posts and the information has been extremely helpful!

I went with a Minn Kota 55lb TM and planned to have mounted in the stern, with the battery in the bow - connected via the built in wiring from pelican (10 AWG wire).  However I have read here that for a 10ft+ run the 55lb would need something closer to 6 AWG to avoid overheating the wiring.

--the TM wiring is listed as 10 AWG but it is much thicker vs. the pelican 10 AWG wiring.  If I replace the pelican with 6awg and leave the TM with 10 is that an issue?  I did not want to open the TM motor housing and replace the factory wiring

--I bought an attwood male adapter for the TM - so I could plug it directly into the pelican built in female Attwood port - this adapter also uses 10AWG.  is this an issue?

--how would I connect 6AWG to the inside of the pelican female atwood port - or do I need to buy a new one and replace the port itself

 

I have read a number of posts debating solder vs crimp connections and planned ongoing with crimping where possible (will buy marine grade crimps).

 

just to get the boat out soon I'll probably put the battery up front but would like to get it rewired soon.

 

thanks for the help!

 

5 hours ago, chuga said:

Hi,

New to the forum, and new bass raider owner here.   I have read through many of these posts and the information has been extremely helpful!

I went with a Minn Kota 55lb TM and planned to have mounted in the stern, with the battery in the bow - connected via the built in wiring from pelican (10 AWG wire).  However I have read here that for a 10ft+ run the 55lb would need something closer to 6 AWG to avoid overheating the wiring.

--the TM wiring is listed as 10 AWG but it is much thicker vs. the pelican 10 AWG wiring.  If I replace the pelican with 6awg and leave the TM with 10 is that an issue?  I did not want to open the TM motor housing and replace the factory wiring

--I bought an attwood male adapter for the TM - so I could plug it directly into the pelican built in female Attwood port - this adapter also uses 10AWG.  is this an issue?

--how would I connect 6AWG to the inside of the pelican female atwood port - or do I need to buy a new one and replace the port itself

 

I have read a number of posts debating solder vs crimp connections and planned ongoing with crimping where possible (will buy marine grade crimps).

 

just to get the boat out soon I'll probably put the battery up front but would like to get it rewired soon.

 

thanks for the help!

 

Welcome to the forum. You are going to love this little boat. I run a 50lb Minn Kota and didn't change any of the wiring. I did add a 50 amp resetable fuse in my battery box though. I think that the longer the wire run the thicker the wire you need. You maybe ok with the stock set up. Plus running wires in these boats are a PIA. I had to run some for my LED lights. Took me forever and a lot of cussing. I need to post pics soon.

Testing.. I really need to adjust my photos.. lol

Another one.

Interior Lights

Last one for now.. 

5 hours ago, Reaper73 said:

Testing.. I really need to adjust my photos.. lol

Another one.

Interior Lights

Last one for now.. 

Dang that's fancy. I can't tell for sure, do you have headlights in the front?