On ‎5‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 0:20 PM, Lonnie D A Uptegrow said:

So I have had some time to work on the boat...still.....STILL....have not had a chance to get her wet.  Hasn't even seen the rain.   I feel so ashamed...lol!  

 

Please check out what I have been cooking up so far.  The pics are not in any particular order but you can put 2 and 2 together. 

 

You will see the solar panel in one of the pics...I have to figure something out with that, but I think I'm going to make a removable deck when I fish by my self and just take out one of the chairs.  Thought about using a spare chair bracket and mounting it to that as well....we will see.

 

http://s709.photobucket.com/user/lonnieuptegrow/slideshow/

Looking at you aux power box, I was actually planning on doing the same thing. Anyway you could send me some detailed pictures of how you set it up? I was looking at an ammo box from Harbor Freight and there is a nice 6 gang LED waterproof panel with volt meter, twin usb port on Wish app for $30.

Mine is going in the water for the first time tomorrow! I'm definitely pumped about it, but I noticed something tonight getting it ready to go, that battery does an awful lot of sliding around. I threw a cheap ratchet strap around it and fastened it to the trolling motor, but I'm planning on having the motor in the front. What are you guys doing to keep your battery in place?

23 hours ago, frosty said:

Mine is going in the water for the first time tomorrow! I'm definitely pumped about it, but I noticed something tonight getting it ready to go, that battery does an awful lot of sliding around. I threw a cheap ratchet strap around it and fastened it to the trolling motor, but I'm planning on having the motor in the front. What are you guys doing to keep your battery in place?

Mines so heavy, it doesn't move .... *shrug*

It's at the back, on the carpeted plywood floor. Literally nearly impossible to slide.

48 minutes ago, MrTightLInes said:

Mines so heavy, it doesn't move .... *shrug*

It's at the back, on the carpeted plywood floor. Literally nearly impossible to slide.

I have my battery on a piece of carpeted board with a small block of wood to tilt the battery box slightly backwards. I have wooden floor also carpeted in the bottom of the boat (3 sections) so the battery pretty much stays put.

Mines just the bare floor, I guess I'm going to have to try some carpeting. Thanks guys. 

On 5/9/2017 at 7:26 PM, bh91 said:

If you don't want to go through the hassle of getting a mount for the fish finder itself or taking away a mount that could be used for a rod holder or other accessories the portable kit seems pretty decent since you can pick up the bag and go 

I carpeted a small piece of wood and mounted the ffinder to the board. It attaches to velcro strips that are adhered to the raider and the carpet backing grips pretty well. When its time to remove it I just lift the unit and pack it away.

49 minutes ago, RLP said:

I carpeted a small piece of wood and mounted the ffinder to the board. It attaches to velcro strips that are adhered to the raider and the carpet backing grips pretty well. When its time to remove it I just lift the unit and pack it away.

 

That works RLP. Thought about using a plastic ammo can setup that everything could be packed inside. The kit just includes everything, battery, charger and mounts included vs the cost of buying everything separately. Then again nothing beats the feeling of making it yourself!

On 5/11/2017 at 10:34 PM, Reaper73 said:

Looking at you aux power box, I was actually planning on doing the same thing. Anyway you could send me some detailed pictures of how you set it up? I was looking at an ammo box from Harbor Freight and there is a nice 6 gang LED waterproof panel with volt meter, twin usb port on Wish app for $30.

Sorry it took so long to reply...haven't had a chance to check this site out until now.  I'll look to see if I have any pics while building it.  It is really simple....I was going to use relays at first to switch on multiple things but the box would have been crowded so I just wired my outlets to a switch.  You may be able to see in the picture I have to sets of double outlets which are wired to one switch a pair.  So when I throw the switch to the right of the green switch it powers both outlets of the top pair...one outlet has two USB ports and the other is a 12v plug.  When I hit the switch under that the same happens just to the bottom pair of outlets.  Now to power everything I used two 7ah sealed batteries from Amazon wired in parallel.  This gives me the same 12v but with increased capacity for a total of 14ah.  The idea behind this box was that it is a emergency power source for my trolling motor as well in the event I have an issue with my big battery.  Inside the box excluding the wiring you will see a bus bar where all of my grounds connect and a fuse panel for the different circuits.  I'll take some pics and I'll post them to my Photobucket.  I originally was going to mount my fish finder to the box to create my own portable unit but I had didn't have a solution for the transducer so I went with using scotty product.  Now I can move this anywhere on the boat without having to move my power center much.  The transducer cable is a simple as a little tape.  I cannot promise I'll have pics up today but hopefully I can get you some this week.

On 5/12/2017 at 10:39 PM, frosty said:

Mine is going in the water for the first time tomorrow! I'm definitely pumped about it, but I noticed something tonight getting it ready to go, that battery does an awful lot of sliding around. I threw a cheap ratchet strap around it and fastened it to the trolling motor, but I'm planning on having the motor in the front. What are you guys doing to keep your battery in place?

Yeah I agree with the other poster...my battery is so heavy it doesn't budge even when I'm moving it around on the trailer to install stuff.  Even more so now that I have the foam padding down.  Once I get it on the water I can tell you more but right now with all the moving I have done it doesn't move.

For those of you that have your BR10E hooked up to where you have a casting deck on the front....I'm going with a Minn Kota tiller steer 45 or 50. I plan to stand and fish a good bit with a temporary drop-in casting deck. Academy has the 45 with a 45" shaft. The 50 only has a 36" shaft (unless I'm missing somn?) My question is....when I'm standing is the 36" shaft enough length for me to not have to stoop over to control the troller or should I go with the 45" shaft to be safe? 

 

First post. Have read all 105 pages. Great stuff. #rookiequestion

I'd go with the longer shaft, you can always put it deeper but it will be tough to make it shallower if it's to short. 

 

 

 

Is this still considered family friendly 

23 minutes ago, frosty said:

I'd go with the longer shaft, you can always put it deeper but it will be tough to make it shallower if it's to short. 

 

 

 

Is this still considered family friendly 

Bahahahha ? Thanks man. 

This post is dual purpose, first it is to test my resizing of the pics to ensure I can add them and first to show how my Bass Raider adventure started.  It all began with the purchase of this trailer about a week before Black Friday of last year.  These trailers are a pain in the butt to assemble, but once you get it done it works out just fine. I'm going to do a post with a ton of pics of everything I have done so far.  Hopefully someone can get something from it...I researched this site for ideas and watched a ton of kayak videos on how I wanted to setup my Bass Raider 10e.  Until I have time to resize all the pics...here is a link to my google album...it should be in order from the first pic back in 2016 up to the last pics I took yesterday.  Enjoy!  https://goo.gl/photos/ykH8q7QCHjWiwJvc9

Edited May 16, 20179 yr by Lonnie D A Uptegrow
Added google album link.

9 hours ago, Lonnie D A Uptegrow said:

This post is dual purpose, first it is to test my resizing of the pics to ensure I can add them and first to show how my Bass Raider adventure started.  It all began with the purchase of this trailer about a week before Black Friday of last year.  These trailers are a pain in the butt to assemble, but once you get it done it works out just fine. I'm going to do a post with a ton of pics of everything I have done so far.  Hopefully someone can get something from it...I researched this site for ideas and watched a ton of kayak videos on how I wanted to setup my Bass Raider 10e. 

Agree those trailers are a bit of a pain, but worth it. Ours has been a good one and have used it for more than hauling the Bass Raider around, fridge, riding mower, scrap metal and more. The only thing I'd like to change is the placement of the lights. When you place your tag on the light the tilt is useless because it hits the ground. Has anyone found a way around that? Thought about using some PVC pipe and raising them, but raising the tag also puts it in the way when loading and unloading. Wish GA. used small trailer tags like motorcycles use.

6 minutes ago, Fish'nGeorgia said:

Agree those trailers are a bit of a pain, but worth it. Ours has been a good one and have used it for more than hauling the Bass Raider around, fridge, riding mower, scrap metal and more. The only thing I'd like to change is the placement of the lights. When you place your tag on the light the tilt is useless because it hits the ground. Has anyone found a way around that? Thought about using some PVC pipe and raising them, but raising the tag also puts it in the way when loading and unloading. Wish GA. used small trailer tags like motorcycles use.

I dislike the plate\light placement as well.  The very first issue I had after putting it together was the brake light and signal light not working on the drivers side.  Everything you read on the internet points to grounding however in my case I had already ensured I had good grounds when installing the light kit.  So I either had a bad light or issue with the tail light wiring harness I bought.  I got one of those testers for tail lights and tested the wiring harness connected to my lights.  So that left the trailer...well to shorten the story turns out that one of the pins in the harness on the trailer was pressed too tight so I had to expand it a bit for it to make good contact when in the tail light plug.  Getting back to the plate and light placement...you could technically make a custom bracket that came off of the trailer at 90 degrees...if you make it as wide as the wheel fenders then you would still be working with the same amount of space on either side of the trailer, and you can make it just high enough to allow tilting.  It could potentially still get in the way depending on how you load and unload whatever you are trailering.   Just brain storming, maybe someone has already solved this?

22 hours ago, Lonnie D A Uptegrow said:

I dislike the plate\light placement as well.  The very first issue I had after putting it together was the brake light and signal light not working on the drivers side.  Everything you read on the internet points to grounding however in my case I had already ensured I had good grounds when installing the light kit.  So I either had a bad light or issue with the tail light wiring harness I bought.  I got one of those testers for tail lights and tested the wiring harness connected to my lights.  So that left the trailer...well to shorten the story turns out that one of the pins in the harness on the trailer was pressed too tight so I had to expand it a bit for it to make good contact when in the tail light plug.  Getting back to the plate and light placement...you could technically make a custom bracket that came off of the trailer at 90 degrees...if you make it as wide as the wheel fenders then you would still be working with the same amount of space on either side of the trailer, and you can make it just high enough to allow tilting.  It could potentially still get in the way depending on how you load and unload whatever you are trailering.   Just brain storming, maybe someone has already solved this?

A custom bracket could work. Thinking more about your idea, PVC can be heated up with a heat gun, flatten the end drill holes and mount them where the light mounts are now. Using elbows to extend them beyond the trailer, a T out for the raised lights and plate bracket. Of course a separate ground would have to be ran. The uprights would also serve as trailer guides for backing up empty. Not so concerned about the uprights being in the way as that darn metal plate, like you said raised, but still inside the fender. I usually carry two kayaks too so I need to build carriers for those and again thinking PVC pipe flattened a bit, going from one side to the other, over the boat and using the post mounts on the sides of the trailer with pins to take them off when the kayaks are unloaded. 

 

BTW. Last year there was a recall on those trailer lights. They sent a card and I mailed it in, they sent a new light kit. I still haven't swapped them out because I don't haul at night. Everything around here is close enough that I can usually get home before dark. I have the same problem you described with your lights, but you fixed yours? I thought it might have been the wiring or part of the reason for the recall. You might see if your lights were included and can still get another set. Doesn't hurt to have a second in case you bust one. I haven't even opened the box yet. In Georgia you don't have to have lights on a trailer during daylight hours. Still need to fix them just in case we do get stuck having to trailer at night.

Well got it out on the water yesterday...and I found some issues I need to address.  First my homemade boat dolly is too low to the ground and the L brackets I used are not good for the weight.  Keep in mind that I'm moving all of my gear while in the boat from the parking lot to the water just because of the walk...plus I have a group 29 battery that I do not want to carry that far...lol.  Second I forgot to put a bow line on it...with all the other stuff I installed I didn't have a way to tie the boat up...lol...completely slipped my mind.  Other than that everything else worked great.  The extension for the trolling motor has to be put on while on the water because we do not have a proper launch point but all and all I'm happy.  Also for those wondering about the stability of these boats let me tell you I'm 6'-1" and 360 and I didn't need a 7 inch riser which seems to be popular and I found that I could move all over this thing without a problem...you still need to be mindful of your center of gravity but man was it nice...was down on my knees and back up with out issue.  Very happy so far with this boat!!

I was standing in mine for a bit, I'm not a fan  I suppose it would help to not have my wife and 3 year old in the boat to, but I didn't enjoy standing. Sitting was great, after looking at it, the seat brackets go out to the pontoon, putting all the weight on the most stable area of the boat. 

On 5/16/2017 at 7:42 AM, Fish'nGeorgia said:

Agree those trailers are a bit of a pain, but worth it. Ours has been a good one and have used it for more than hauling the Bass Raider around, fridge, riding mower, scrap metal and more. The only thing I'd like to change is the placement of the lights. When you place your tag on the light the tilt is useless because it hits the ground. Has anyone found a way around that? Thought about using some PVC pipe and raising them, but raising the tag also puts it in the way when loading and unloading. Wish GA. used small trailer tags like motorcycles use.

I use key rings along with zip ties to attach the plate to both sides of the bracket. This way the plate is not fixed and actually swings so when tilting the trailer the plate is flexible and will not bend. Yes it swings when traveling down the road but I have not had any issues with cops or troopers.

 

Just my 2 cents..

8 hours ago, RLP said:

I use key rings along with zip ties to attach the plate to both sides of the bracket. This way the plate is not fixed and actually swings so when tilting the trailer the plate is flexible and will not bend. Yes it swings when traveling down the road but I have not had any issues with cops or troopers.

 

Just my 2 cents..

Very clever! Perhaps I'll try that until I figure out exactly what to do. Thanks for the tip.

19 hours ago, RLP said:

I use key rings along with zip ties to attach the plate to both sides of the bracket. This way the plate is not fixed and actually swings so when tilting the trailer the plate is flexible and will not bend. Yes it swings when traveling down the road but I have not had any issues with cops or troopers.

 

Just my 2 cents..

My only concern with that is the longevity of the zip ties. I know they get brittle after being in the weather for awhile. I would use these for a more permanent solution. 

46 minutes ago, frosty said:

My only concern with that is the longevity of the zip ties. I know they get brittle after being in the weather for awhile. I would use these for a more permanent solution. 

Excellent idea! That was why I mentioned key rings and zip ties both holding the plate but this solution is a no brainer. I worried about the longevity of the plastic ties as well. Off  I go to find a pair of these small enough to go through the license plate holes.  Thanks!

19 minutes ago, RLP said:

Excellent idea! That was why I mentioned key rings and zip ties both holding the plate but this solution is a no brainer. I worried about the longevity of the plastic ties as well. Off  I go to find a pair of these small enough to go through the license plate holes.  Thanks!

I know Walmart carries small ones, but you might have to use two to get enough clearance for them to swing. 

Either should work, key rings or the metal links. I have a ton of key rings so will probably go that route for now. Thanks for the trailer tilt tag solutions. Now It gets me thinking about using small hinges bolted onto the stock plastic mount and using a small magnet to possibly fix the plate swinging. Yes it is possible to over think these things!

1 hour ago, Fish'nGeorgia said:

Either should work, key rings or the metal links. I have a ton of key rings so will probably go that route for now. Thanks for the trailer tilt tag solutions. Now It gets me thinking about using small hinges bolted onto the stock plastic mount and using a small magnet to possibly fix the plate swinging. Yes it is possible to over think these things!

Maybe put it on a spring and use stop hinges. Heck, might as well build in some LED lights and maybe a backup camera while you're down there