I picked up some 3 inch finesse worms the other day from one of the overseas sites and found some #4 offset round bend hooks that work perfectly with them. They're too light to cast weightless so I'm going to use a simple split shot rig to help cast 'em out. I have never fished for bluegill/crappie with a hook set up like this- always an exposed hook on a small jighead, etc. Seems the bluegill like to "snap" at the bait and basically hook themselves. Does anyone think this set up will actually work? Will I have enough time to feel the bite and then try to set the hook like my favorite TX rigs for bass? 

 

 My local pond is full of stumps and weeds and whatever else. I've lost hundreds of dollars in Beetle Spins over the last 20 years out there, which is why I thought about trying this weedless set up. The bass there have a tendency to go after whatever bait I throw, so I'll hopefully catch something, regardless. Guess I'll find out Saturday morning... 😁

Greetings!

Based on your description it looks like you are prepared to enjoy a new year of angling adventures! Yes, you'll be positioned well using the configuration described. You will most likely find more than bluegill interested in that rig. 

 

I often use a similar rig frequently, and I use it pretty much all year round. I do mix it up between the hook styles, small fine wire extra wide gap hooks, or the fine wire offset worm hook. I usually prefer the EWG hooks as there is a greater than 90 degree bend available with those to better hold the soft plastic in place.

 

As for the soft plastics I use it is a collection of salvaged bits and pieces. Usually it is some segment of a torn or used worm that is 2 - 4 inches. Sure I can purchase like the small 3 inch version of cigar worms, I do have a few packages of those handy. During my angling adventures I'm forever picking up garbage along the way. Some of the discarded soft plastic bits get recycled by me for this type of ultra lite angling. I'm more about catching that casting. I'm good with any fish on-line.

 

During the warmer months I send it out weightless using either a UL spinning, BFS, (when not too windy), or spin cast  (Zebco Omega Pro, which works great regardless of wind.condition). During warm season, there is plenty of shallow activity, so going weightless is very successful in the shallows or in cluttered areas. The strikes generally occur rather quick so no need for a fast fall or to get tangled up either. 

 

During the cooler months, depending on the location, a 1/32 oz or 1/16 oz bullet weight is used just to reach the depths a tad quicker or to provide more bottom contact feedback. This past weekend this accounted for a couple of bass and whole bunch of trout. I did not manage to find any bluegills in my regional lake. The water temperature was on the cold side.

 

Realize fish of all sizes will be interested in that size and type of offering, just be sure to give them time to realize it is there before them. It is one of those baits that does not require much input to be successful. 

 

Have a great time this weekend! We'll be looking for your posted results. Happy New Year! Cheers!

22 hours ago, Fishing_Rod said:

Have a great time this weekend! We'll be looking for your posted results. Happy New Year! Cheers!

 Thanks much for the detailed reply, buddy. I'm going to try something totally different and ditched the split shot for a free rig. I found one old free rig weight at the bottom of my tacklebox and may as well try that out. Rain is supposed to be coming in tonight but out at the early morning. I'll give it a shot!

Do a Google search of the Charlie Brewer weedless crappie Slider. It's been around for many years, and catches most everything.

15 hours ago, Mobasser said:

Do a Google search of the Charlie Brewer weedless crappie Slider. It's been around for many years, and catches most everything.

Thank you. I will. 

 

Tried my luck today with zero results. I used a free rig weight instead of the split shot and every single cast came back with weeds and grass on the weight. The split shot wouldn't have been any better, though. Gotta figure something else out there. 

You will have to find where the panfish are holding.  When the bass bite gets tough I fish with a Texas-rigged 3" Stik-O on a split shot rig.  The green sunfish, bluegill, and warmouth love that thing.

Greetings All,

Yeah the fishing vs catching thing. I typically fish pretty slow all the time. Cold weather times, I have to go slower, often tortuously slow. All the bites I've got recently here in SE AZ where we've had some pretty cold storms go through with early morning temps in the upper teens and low 20 F range, have been had during a pause segment. Even when I'm moving the bait, it is only about a 2 -6 inches slow drag, then a healthy pause 15 - 30 seconds (length of short commercials). 

 

Because it is a deliberate working over and area, I'll stick to areas that are near the deeper edge of known submerged weed clusters. I will target the interior deeper portion of the weed ring about the shorelines. Of course this is easier using watercraft but it is somewhat doable from shore too. You just have to pick where you can reach. From shore there is a higher risk of snag hazard. 

 

This time of year I'm using the fishing rigs with more sensitivity as the bites are often very subtile. Here is where the very low mass delicate graphite UL rods work well. You don't get a peck or a thump to indicate interest.

 

The bites typically occur after a good pause. I have observed, as you begin to add tension for the next dragging movement, you'll simply feel some slight additional drag, like weed resistance. When I feel that, I'll simply pause while holding that minimal tension just to see what happens next. Often you will feel either a slight movement or change. You can often feel it in the line if your finger is touching it, possibly through the rod blank too. Otherwise you can simply look at the rod tip to see if there is movement (deflection). At that point you confirm activity, then a simple simultaneous combination of reel winding and rod sweep (lift in some cases) is all that needed to pin them. Then let the games begin. Yes, I'm using fine wire hooks so not much effort is needed to stick. Besides I'm also using 4 pound mono too so there are limits to my hypocrisy.  

 

I hope these observations and experiences help on your next angling adventure. Let's be careful out there and dress appropriately.  Be well, and Cheers!

On 1/4/2024 at 7:48 PM, Fishing_Rod said:

to enjoy a new year of angling adventures! Yes, you'll be positioned well using the configuration described. You will most likely find more than bluegill interested in that rig. 

@OmegaDPW, @Fishing_Rod, 

 

I just started split shotting for sunfish.

 

I feel like I'm missing a lot of fish (and I have sharp hooks and small hooks).

 

Any advice on when to set the hook? @Fishing_Rod, I liked your detailed response. Do you set the hook hard? Do you do it right away, or wait.

 

Also, I'm surprised you are using such large baits. I have small 1 inch baits, and heavier split shots, to get them down.

 

@OmegaDPW, if you have continued to practice this technique, we can share notes.

 

I posted a similar topic:

 

 

 

Wire weed guard on 1/16 oz jighead, eagle claw sells them at wal mart 

Grettings @CoryRobertLowe and et al.,

 

Since I use fine wire hooks they are rather sharp. I also typically mash the barb down too so that presents less resistance to penetrate. 

 

My response to your questions:

 

On setting the hook, I really don't. Because the line is light, hooks are fine wire and very sharp there is no need. If you can imagine how much force is generated by "swinging" the rod, the realities are not missed bites but cut fish. Too much force and those hooks go from snagging to simply ripping. By simply winding the reel in a spirited way to simply add a slight bend in the rod, then maintain that bend and you'll be able to lead the fish in.

 

I simply wait till the fish either taps hard on the line to begin the gradual reeling in of line. You can feel any resistance as the rod will simply bend as tension is added. If the fish released the bait you can simply pause to see if they will do a follow on bite.

 

I start the whole process (same for all fish regardless of species) by reeling in the line. If I feel something then I will add just a slight rod lift, not swing, to add tension a bit quicker. Panfish don't require too much tension for hook penetration. Bass, it depends on where the hook point is. Most of the time I get them pinned rather well. There are those occasions where the hook is held on a bony section, and there is just a small amount of penetration, more of a snag but holding tension usually is enough. Also since you don't startle them with a hard jolt they usually don't resist so intensely and simple swim and get tired that way and I can still guide them towards me.

 

Obviously this is not the approach when you are in the thick of things such as reeds or downed tree limbs. That requires different gear and different approach. 

 

This is suited for UL techniques. Yes, it works for sunfish (panfish) and it has worked for me on bass, and catfish too. The bass and catfish are simply going to take time to wear out but that is also part of the drama. I've had a number slow struggles for several minutes at a time and the sharp hook simply stays pinned to a bit of membrane. I am so grateful I didn't swing and miss that opportunity for fun.

 

As a common analog for an example. When first learning to drive, many of us responded to course corrections with ambition and the result was a vehicle that went down the road like driving by braile. Hit the extreme edge of the lane and correct very rapidly. Repeat when you get to the other extreme edge of the lane.

 

Through practice and experience you eased up on the intensity of the inputs and managed to maintain a smoother alignment for vehicle to travel lane. Your response to reacting to a biting panfish can benefit from a relaxed approach. Just take it easy and see how things go. Don't be too quick and too much in a hurry. Let the rod dance a bit as you wind in line.

 

Just $ 0.02 put in for consideration. I hope it helps. Be well, Cheers!

@Fishing_Rod,

 

Update:

I had some great success, following your advice. Thanks so much! I was able to catch fish by taking off the weed guard, and fishing where there were minimal weeds (by the dock). I just needed to make sure the hook point was pointed up. 

 

Now, I just need help with the weeds.

 

Additional Question:

Can you send me some pictures of how you rig your hooks. Also, I see from your previous post that you are reusing worms, but/and if you have any ideas on how to rig these micro presentation (1 inch - 1 1/2 inches.), that would be helpful.

 

Context:

I noticed I was missing a lot of bits, because the hook wasn't riding straight up. You can see the types of baits I am using below. It wasn't because the hook wasn't pointed straight up, but rather the baits are symmetrical, and not that heavy (compared to the hook). The hook would sometimes fall point down.

 

Here is the evolution of what I tried (and got some good/mixed results.)

 

1 - A weedless hook. I didn't use this much, as I thought the weed guard would be too difficult for sunfish to open

2 - I created my own weed guard via a thick mono line, tied on via fly tying. But/and I think that can make the hook less stable so the hook point is straight up (not sure).

3 + 4 - I noticed the hook wasn't always straight. That's when I started to bend the hook eye. I both used and didn't use the weed guard. If I have a lot of bend in the hook, it can act as a weed guard.

  - I realized that what 3 and 4 are doing is putting weight in front of the hook, acting as a "keel". I was also pulling the line "tight" and "up" (not forward), so it pull the front of the hook up .

5 - However, I realized I'm basically creating a jig, as I am putting weight in front, and bending the eye up

6 - EWG hook. I haven't used this yet much. I think it would work with small worms, but then if my grubs have a lot of bulk, I didn't want to fill the hook gap.

 

I'm stumped, as I think I'm super close. How can I get, and keep the hook running up, while also keeping it weedless (and not using a jig head). I think I just need to see some rigged up.

Greetings All,

@CoryRobertLowe AWESOME! Tight lines are way cool! I prefer catching to simply casting. 

 

 

Let me have a go at some of your questions. I prefer to keep things reasonably simple. I'm a recreational angler so I simply don't want to work too hard at having fun. My main UL bait presentation is based on 1/32 oz jig heads, unpainted. These are easily available at my regional retail outlets at a low cost. Paired up with a small curly tailed grub, usually less than 2.5 inches, it makes for a nice successful multi-species catching tool. Note: I usually attach the curly tailed grub with the tail facing downward. This minimizes the tail bind on the hook. Your mileage may vary. 

 

This is a very effective bait package for me throughout the State of AZ for catching many different species of fish. The exposed hook simply is tough to beat as it is game on with very few misses. Again the key is simply to keep enough pressure to maintain a bend in the UL rod. You are not trying to leverage the fish, simply keeping them connected. 

 

Because the low cost I can be cavalier in casting them into the thick of it all. Also because I'm using UL gear it is possible to make very accurate casts. Roughly targeting an area close to a coffee mug in size with precision. Many times when you do connect the fish will make their way towards deeper water, whew! Then there are are those other times when things get interesting too. 

 

We are quickly getting to that point in the year where the weeds are getting crazy thick. Here is where I'll keep the jig handy but I will keep the small soft plastic rigged with a small extra wide gap hook handy too. The smaller EWG hooks are a bit more of a challenge to find. I have to get them from a single retailer in Tucson or simply order them on-line. I will use anywhere from a size 4, 1, 1/0 EWG hook with those smaller soft plastics such as a 3 inch curly tailed grub, or a portion of a worm (a fraction of a cigar worm works great). 

 

At the hobby stores I've found a number of glass beads (glass does not float) and those can be put in line as very light weight sinkers. Also at my Tuscon retailer, they have 1/64 oz in-line bullet weights too. Very helpful has they make for a great effective presentation as the bait doesn't drop too fast and that generates a lot of fish interest. 

 

The ability to adjust the amount of weight to get that nice slow fall is wonderful for my recreational fish catching ambitions. The other benefit is that the very light weight package does not get snagged as easy. If you do let the bait settle to the bottom is is free and not buried. 

 

The slower fall allows to you work the bait gently. By doing so it is also less likely to catch on weeds. So far that has been my rationale through experience. 

 

I've recently applied the similar rationale when using heavier gear, again with great success. I'd been goofing off this summer using a 3 inch section of a soft plastic worm (salvaged from a discarded torn up worm) with a 2/0 EWG hook on 10 pound mono, with the 1/64 oz in line bullet weight (yeah, it is only about the size of an airgun pellet skirt). I've been flipping that bait package into the various nooks, again with great success. The slow fall has been helpful to connect with fish while minimizing snags. 

 

I hope this has been helpful in some way. Looking forward to hearing more of your and everyone else's angling success. Be well, Cheers!