I picked up the Dobyn's Sierra 690 XF rod from Amazon for $90.  I primarily want to use it for 1/15 and 1/10 Ned Rigs with 4lb or 6lb Tastu fluoro. Maybe the occasional slip bobber for crappie.  Not really sure what reel to go with. Price isn't a real limitation, but my goal is not to throw ridiculously lightweight stuff.  I want a reasonably easy reel to manage while casting, even if it means a slight reduction in casting distance with the intended weights.

 

Maybe the 25 Daiwa Alphas BF, Shimano Aldebaran BFS, or something along those lines.

I would say the alderbaran bfs, 23 conquest bfs, the newer daiwa breaks. Are really strong on there newer bfs reels. I have a daiwa gekabijin air with a roro spool in it and the lighter brake ring and I can cast it at 0 brakes and the reel definitely has a very strong braking profile, that has been a very common concern on there newer reels along with spools that run over 8 grams. I also really like the bates bfs reel it does really well but it is a little bit more expensive but I like it. I hope this helps, I also run .60 braid from 8-12lbs and they do great.

6 minutes ago, Jmurphy87 said:

I would say the alderbaran bfs, 23 conquest bfs, the newer daiwa breaks. Are really strong on there newer bfs reels. I have a daiwa gekabijin air with a roro spool in it and the lighter brake ring and I can cast it at 0 brakes and the reel definitely has a very strong braking profile, that has been a very common concern on there newer reels along with spools that run over 8 grams. I also really like the bates bfs reel it does really well but it is a little bit more expensive but I like it. I hope this helps, I also run .60 braid from 8-12lbs and they do great.

Something is wrong with the reel if you can cast at brake setting of 0.  Either the magnet rings are broken and snapping to the max brake setting, what you think is 0 is actually max on the dial (turned it the wrong way) or are using spool tension.  Remove the side plate and turn the brake dial and observe the magnet rings.  The ring should rotate clockwise and counter clockwise with the dial movement.  If the rig rotates then jumps to align the two lines on the rings then it has come lose from the adjustment mechanism and is magneticly aligning to the max brake setting making the dial settings non functional.

SLX BFS or Curado BfS would go well with the dobyns rod. Or the new Ark gravity reel. Just based on how you mentioned you're not going super light. 

I really like the fit and feel of my aldebaran.  And with JDM direct prices it's not much more than a curado.  

52 minutes ago, Bigbox99 said:

Something is wrong with the reel if you can cast at brake setting of 0.  Either the magnet rings are broken and snapping to the max brake setting, what you think is 0 is actually max on the dial (turned it the wrong way) or are using spool tension.  Remove the side plate and turn the brake dial and observe the magnet rings.  The ring should rotate clockwise and counter clockwise with the dial movement.  If the rig rotates then jumps to align the two lines on the rings then it has come lose from the adjustment mechanism and is magneticly aligning to the max brake setting making the dial settings non functional.

 

I have tried two Tatula 70 BF's and one Steez. All three could be set to zero and it would still engage the brakes. The Tatulas were my own.  I purchased one and sent it back to Daiwa for repair twice and the second time they sent a new reel. It has the same issues.... Unpredictable braking, grinding noise on casts, and a gap between the spool and the frame where the line gets caught under it even with the spool tension tight. The line in the pic is 7lb. 

 

 

So I'm definitely going to say the Aldebaran in this case. It is a little finicky at first but once you get use to it, it's great. When you set the brakes,  set them more to how the rod loads and to your casting style, rather than the Lure. Seems weird but it works. 

19 minutes ago, FishTank said:

 

I have tried two Tatula 70 BF's and one Steez. All three could be set to zero and it would still engage the brakes. The Tatulas were my own.  I purchased one and sent it back to Daiwa for repair twice and the second time they sent a new reel. It has the same issues.... Unpredictable braking, grinding noise on casts, and a gap between the spool and the frame where the line gets caught under it even with the spool tension tight. The line in the pic is 7lb. 

 

 

So I'm definitely going to say the Aldebaran in this case. It is a little finicky at first but once you get use to it, it's great. When you set the brakes,  set them more to how the rod loads and to your casting style, rather than the Lure. Seems weird but it works. 

Sounds like broken Tatula BF reels to me with the grinding noise and brake behavior.  If you still had them then I'd say follow the brake troubleshooting advice above.  When the magnet gets loose it aligns itself to max brake and ignores the dial setting.  This can also cause the spool rotor to rub on the magnet since it free to flop about and only loosely contained by the magnetic field of the larger magnet ring.

 

That line gap shouldn't be happening unless there is a flaw in that reel.  I'd stay away from the Tatula BF just because of that and opt for the Alphas Air, Shimano BFS or the Tatula 80 with Aliexpress BFS spool.  That gap in your photo is visibly large and able to swallow 7# non-braid. That's a red flag to me that there is a design or assembly issue with the Tatula BF 70.  It's on the plam plate side as if the reel uses a smaller diameter spool for the BF model and a brake housing for a larger diameter Tatula 80 spool was used making a large gap.  Thats either an assembly issue, the tech fitted the wrong magnet holder when it was in for service or a design flaw in all Tatula BF 70s.

 

Anyways my personal recommendation for a BFS reel for 1/10 Ned heads and other baits in > 1/8 oz total weight up to 3/8 oz would actually be a Gekabijin with a Ray's Studio Long Cast 28mm spool with the SV brake.  I've heard absolutely phenomenal 1st hand reports about that reel and spool pairing for baits in that range and should be similar to my old favorite for those baits, the Pixy Airy Red.  The SLX 70 MGL would also make for a killer budget option if skipping isn't a priority.

 

44 minutes ago, Bigbox99 said:

Sounds like broken Tatula BF reels to me with the grinding noise and brake behavior.  If you still had them then I'd say follow the brake troubleshooting advice above.  When the magnet gets loose it aligns itself to max brake and ignores the dial setting.  This can also cause the spool rotor to rub on the magnet since it free to flop about and only loosely contained by the magnetic field of the larger magnet ring.

 

That line gap shouldn't be happening unless there is a flaw in that reel.  I'd stay away from the Tatula BF just because of that and opt for the Alphas Air, Shimano BFS or the Tatula 80 with Aliexpress BFS spool.  That gap in your photo is visibly large and able to swallow 7# non-braid. That's a red flag to me that there is a design or assembly issue with the Tatula BF 70.  It's on the plam plate side as if the reel uses a smaller diameter spool for the BF model and a brake housing for a larger diameter Tatula 80 spool was used making a large gap.  Thats either an assembly issue, the tech fitted the wrong magnet holder when it was in for service or a design flaw in all Tatula BF 70s.

 

Anyways my personal recommendation for a BFS reel for 1/10 Ned heads and other baits in > 1/8 oz total weight up to 3/8 oz would actually be a Gekabijin with a Ray's Studio Long Cast 28mm spool with the SV brake.  I've heard absolutely phenomenal 1st hand reports about that reel and spool pairing for baits in that range and should be similar to my old favorite for those baits, the Pixy Airy Red.  The SLX 70 MGL woukd also make for a killer budget option if skipping isn't a priority.

 

I have the same braking issue on multiple Tatula platforms including the 80 and 300 I have.  I work on reels from time to time. A lot less in the past few years but I have tried what you mentioned above (it's kind of a standard Daiwa thing to do) and on the 70 BF it functions correctly.  Daiwa said it's in the spool itself. 

 

I also have the same issue with the braking on a Zillion Silver Wolf. None of the other Daiwas I have, have this issue.  Can't explain it and neither can Daiwa. 

 

Sent this to Daiwa.  It's on the max brake setting and it still backlashes.  

 

9 minutes ago, FishTank said:

I have the same braking issue on multiple Tatula platforms including the 80 and 300 I have.  I work on reels from time to time. A lot less in the past few years but I have tried what you mentioned above (it's kind of a standard Daiwa thing to do) and on the 70 BF it functions correctly.  Daiwa said it's in the spool itself. 

 

I also have the same issue with the braking on a Zillion Silver Wolf. None the other Daiwas I have, have this issue.  Can't explain it and neither can Daiwa. 

 

Sent this to Daiwa.  It's on the max brake setting and it still backlashes.  

 

Thats an odd one and a facinating outlier to me.  It sounds like the reels don't like your casting stroke?  Hard to say.  I could write off one of the dynamic brake reels as a sticky inductor or broken inductor base ramp but not with all 3 or 5 of them you have this issue with.  I've always heard Daiwas don't like a snappy cast but that's how I cast and have no issues with the braking profile of any reel from any brand I have gotten into my hands.  Zero spool tension on all of them too.  I swing, the rod loads, the bait flies and spool spins, it doesn't backlash mid cast, then I apply pressure to the spool to slow and stop it as the bait nears the water. 

 

The closest thing I have to an issue with the braking profile of a reel is with unconditioned fluoro on SVS Shimanos and some reels with small and or close level wind in pound tests greater than 12#.  They want to backlash at the end of the cast with faster spool speeds of the Shimanos or poor line flow from the reels with the tiny level wing openings.  You can use use spool tension to slow the spool but I feel as if that free casting nature is the whole appeal of them and would be a shame to ruin it when I have other reels that can handle that line without issue.  

 

The Tatula 300 is especially puzzeling because that one isn't even a dynamic brake reel.  It's a linear mag brake reel and has no moving parts on the rotor.  Braking force increases with spool speed in a linear curve (hence the name).  That reel in particular is well liked for its braking profiles ability to reduce helicoptering of glide baits.  It's a more control focused braking profile for massive plastic lines and wonky helicoptering baits.  The 300 is a middle of dial setting, 20# Big Game (30# fluoro diameter) and 3 to 5 oz glides reels for me.  Same as my Lexa 300.  

 

If you're running braid at a low brake setting and living on the ragged edge of its controlable braking profile then I can see you having issues.  To me, it sounds like you're trying to use the reel for something it's not well suited for and you are getting hiccups in its behavior from that.  

 

If I had to guess I suspect your issues with Daiwas stemms from running too low a braking setting that blacklashes when you put a little too much into the cast or your braid gets soaked with water.  There are guys that live at that ragged edge on Daiwas that have the brake set no higher than 6 and go as low as 1 or 0 and they swear by it.  These guys all palm while casting and do what I consider lob casting.  I'm a power caster and live in the middle of the dial rarely going below 6 and up to max on skips frequently.  I get mid cast backlashes going below 6 on my reels including SV spools.  

6 hours ago, offsidewing said:

25 Daiwa Alphas BF, Shimano Aldebaran BFS

can't go wrong - I'm not sure why the discussion is deviating Down.  

Stick with the good stuff.  

I matched an older MagZ Daiwa with a BFS spool - it outdistances everything but has zero control or adjustment.  You want control and adjustment.  

I've never backlashed Steez, Zillion or Silver Wolf with a range of BFS spools.  

Last fall, caught on Silver Wolf with Roro spool and PE#0.6.  

Sight-fished on INX Label Supra 65 prop-tail shrimp casting into the grass.  

I was right behind my buddy Josh who caught this fly rod red

2 hours ago, Bigbox99 said:

Something is wrong with the reel if you can cast at brake setting of 0.  Either the magnet rings are broken and snapping to the max brake setting, what you think is 0 is actually max on the dial (turned it the wrong way) or are using spool tension.  Remove the side plate and turn the brake dial and observe the magnet rings.  The ring should rotate clockwise and counter clockwise with the dial movement.  If the rig rotates then jumps to align the two lines on the rings then it has come lose from the adjustment mechanism and is magneticly aligning to the max brake setting making the dial settings non functional.

No the brakes work, my thumb just has to be on point or it’s a ugly over run, go up 6 clicks on the dial and you can feel the difference of the brakes slowing the spool. I run my reels loose on spool tension and my brakes really low. It’s something that I have had to work on to get good at.

1 hour ago, Bigbox99 said:

Thats an odd one and a facinating outlier to me.  It sounds like the reels don't like your casting stroke?  Hard to say.  I could write off one of the dynamic brake reels as a sticky inductor or broken inductor base ramp but not with all 3 or 5 of them you have this issue with.  I've always heard Daiwas don't like a snappy cast but that's how I cast and have no issues with the braking profile of any reel from any brand I have gotten into my hands.  Zero spool tension on all of them too.  I swing, the rod loads, the bait flies and spool spins, it doesn't backlash mid cast, then I apply pressure to the spool to slow and stop it as the bait nears the water. 

 

The closest thing I have to an issue with the braking profile of a reel is with unconditioned fluoro on SVS Shimanos and some reels with small and or close level wind in pound tests greater than 12#.  They want to backlash at the end of the cast with faster spool speeds of the Shimanos or poor line flow from the reels with the tiny level wing openings.  You can use use spool tension to slow the spool but I feel as if that free casting nature is the whole appeal of them and would be a shame to ruin it when I have other reels that can handle that line without issue.  

 

The Tatula 300 is especially puzzeling because that one isn't even a dynamic brake reel.  It's a linear mag brake reel and has no moving parts on the rotor.  Braking force increases with spool speed in a linear curve (hence the name).  That reel in particular is well liked for its braking profiles ability to reduce helicoptering of glide baits.  It's a more control focused braking profile for massive plastic lines and wonky helicoptering baits.  The 300 is a middle of dial setting, 20# Big Game (30# fluoro diameter) and 3 to 5 oz glides reels for me.  Same as my Lexa 300.  

 

If you're running braid at a low brake setting and living on the ragged edge of its controlable braking profile then I can see you having issues.  To me, it sounds like you're trying to use the reel for something it's not well suited for and you are getting hiccups in its behavior from that.  

 

If I had to guess I suspect your issues with Daiwas stemms from running too low a braking setting that blacklashes when you put a little too much into the cast or your braid gets soaked with water.  There are guys that live at that ragged edge on Daiwas that have the brake set no higher than 6 and go as low as 1 or 0 and they swear by it.  These guys all palm while casting and do what I consider lob casting.  I'm a power caster and live in the middle of the dial rarely going below 6 and up to max on skips frequently.  I get mid cast backlashes going below 6 on my reels including SV spools.  

I wasn't really referring to the ones I own as much as the multitude of Tatulas I have worked on. I would say maybe 25% have had the same issues I have. I always advise people on them to go one or two settings higher than what they think it should be under the best circumstances.  It's was the number one complaint with them. I can't speak for the new one though.  I heard it's exceptional. 

 

The 300 has intermittent backlash issues. It's on a Megabass Valkyrie XX-heavy.  I fish up to 4oz glides and swimbaits on 22lb Defier Armilo. 

 

Daiwa reels I have no issues with braking that are my own..... Steez SV TW, Steez SV TW Limited,  24 Steez SV,  Steez CT, Zillion, Zillion HD,  and Steez AII x 2. 

 

I also have a Millionaire CT. I'm not sure how to categorize this one. It's so so most of the time but I recently replaced the spool bearings and the bearing under the spool tension knob. So far it's been fantastic.  I'm using YGK PE 1.0 on this one. 

 

All my Shimanos have FC except one. I have no issues with them on backlashing. The Shimanos I have cast well consistently but the 16 Steez SV has been great in that regard. I also replaced the spool bearings on this one with ceramics recently and it has improved the distance somewhat.  

 

Just in case I'm always in the camp of matching line, reel and rod to the bait I'm using.  My casting is dependent on the conditions I'm given and not one particular style. 

I had a customer show me two of the ARK BFS reels at the shop recently.  Oh my goodness!  I am shimano exclusively, BUT these reels feel sick.  This customer has purchased 3 Curado BFS so I trust his evaluation.  He raves about these reels and said he can sling baits for miles.  the cost is super cheap right now as well if you check the website.