Wanted to revisit this thread and give an update on progress. Bought the garmin livescope bundle when it was on sale. Still needed a transom ducer for traditional, down, and side scan. So I got the 93 uhd2 with gt56 transducer. Had a mounting fixture made for the fish finder, painted it and secured it to starboard side gunnel. Still have some quirks I'm trying to dial in with transducer placement on the transom and trying to get a better picture. Didn't want to drill holes below the water line so I used an old cabelas ducer bracket that hangs it off the back. It works okay, but starting to think a more secure hold would be best. Also, with the bracket hanging in the water it seems to make more disturbance and spray which might be contributing to some of my signal/picture issues.

My dad and I ran all the wiring, installed new batteries, fuse block, and circuit breaker. I was giddy to have this done and work properly. In the long run should have had someone more experienced install this as I think some mistakes were made. Didn't think about it till afterwards but I need one of the graphs on the bow.. duhh for the livescope on the trolling motor!! smh
Currently have the 12 running sonar and the 9" for mapping both at the helm.
Think I may buy a dual graph mount from bass boat technologies. Put the 9" up front where it will stay. Therefore, I can send way points to it for fishing on the bow. The garmin is convenient enough to take out of gimbal bracket to take upfront for livescope. One day down the road buy another 12" to keep at the helm to eliminate taking it back and forth. But for now I believe this will work. Just wasn't in the cards financially to buy a 3rd graph.

What are your thoughts? TIA

 

 

What are your thoughts on transducer placement and bracket. Does this look too low? I've noticed once the boat gets above 10 or so mph traditional and down scan starts to get a reduced image. Also, seem to get prop wash. Which makes me think location is off. Do yall think the transducer should be mounted directly to the transom and my main issue is the cabelas bracket stability? Any advice would be helpful.

 

When are we going fishing? 

Haha when is this weather gonna turn?! Feel like it’s rained the past two weeks!

I’ve found that if you tilt the transom transducer down slightly it will help it pick up at speed.  

3 minutes ago, SC53 said:

I’ve found that if you tilt the transom transducer down slightly it will help it pick up at speed.  

Tilt the aft end of transducer down?

If you don’t want to drill into the boat, get starboard and 3M epoxy.  Glue the starboard on and then screw into it instead.

 

I’d go with the 12” up front since you’re running live imaging. the extra 3” is a big difference and when you’re sitting at the console the FF is right on top of you so you don’t need the extra 3” as much.  

3 hours ago, TNriverRAT said:

Haha when is this weather gonna turn?! Feel like it’s rained the past two weeks!

I’m gonna try to hit Guntersville in the morning.  I anticipate rain. 

3 hours ago, TNriverRAT said:

Tilt the aft end of transducer down?

The opposite. You want your transducer level. However, when your idling around your bow is going to rise, so, you want to tilt the aft end up slightly. There are videos explaining how to do this.

8 hours ago, 12poundbass said:

The opposite. You want your transducer level. However, when your idling around your bow is going to rise, so, you want to tilt the aft end up slightly. There are videos explaining how to do this.

Negative.  I have the aft of mine tilted down not up. If it’s level, it’ll lose signal at on plane which is about 15 mph for me.  With the aft tilted down, I get readings on sonar, down and side scan at 25 mph plus.
Could  be because I have a flats boat that rides pretty flat in the water when on plant.

Transducer looks way too deep to me. Bottom of it should be barely below the hull. You've got the top of transducer set at bottom of hull. Probably throws a big rooster tail now. Also if you do anything with adhesive, 3M 4200 is removable, the 5200 is considered permanent.

Definitely put the 12" up front. You'll want the extra size when you're standing and your eyes are 5-6 feet from the screen. Not as big of a deal in the back when you're sitting close to them. Plus with LiveScope, screen size makes a big difference. 

 

Agree with others that your transduce is too deep. Try to get the bottom level with the bottom of the boat instead of the top. 

I appreciate everyone’s advice. Will adjust the transducer height to be flush with bottom of boat. Guess I was confused because installation manual that came with Garmin said to have ducer 10mm or 0.375” below aluminum hull. Wasn’t sure if that’s from the top of transducer or the bottom. So thanks again for yall clarifying this. 
 

I will not have a transducer on the bow besides livescope. Basically use the gt56 on the stern and account for boat length when using traditional/down scan when fishing on the bow and mapping. Have the 12” strictly for ffs when fishing. Hope that will work ok. That being said, would you say it’s overkill to have both graphs on the bow? I like having the 9” at the helm for mapping while the 12 is used for sonar at the helm (which may also be overkill, since the ultra2 is quick to process and change layouts). Wondering if I should just sell the 9” and purchase another 12” ultra2. Have one 12” at the helm and a 12” on the bow. I don’t want to be THAT guy with 3 to 4 screens on a tin boat. My dad joked on me about having more money in the electronics than the boat is worth lmao!

Id put the very bottom of transducer just below bottom of the boat to guarantee solid contact with water coming off the hull but it would not be low enough for a leading edge to catch and create lots of drag and spray. Like this:

https://sportfishingbuddy.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Diagram-showin-ideal-transducer-mounting-height.png?ezimgfmt=rs:300x600/rscb2/ng:webp/ngcb2

I didn’t go to Guntersville this am anticipating rain. Absolutely gorgeous day. I believe I’m going to see if anything wants a new frog in the am…

@Smirak sure did turn out to be a beautiful day! Alabama weather is always difficult to predict right now. Hope the weather cooperates and you crush em! Went out about 3 weeks ago or so. Put in at alreds and had a good day in the back waters around the marina. Found a spot with a bunch of activity, lots of blue gill popping and the grass was just right. Pitched around a Texas rig and caught a couple 4 #ers. 

13 hours ago, TNriverRAT said:

I appreciate everyone’s advice. Will adjust the transducer height to be flush with bottom of boat. Guess I was confused because installation manual that came with Garmin said to have ducer 10mm or 0.375” below aluminum hull. Wasn’t sure if that’s from the top of transducer or the bottom. So thanks again for yall clarifying this. 
 

I will not have a transducer on the bow besides livescope. Basically use the gt56 on the stern and account for boat length when using traditional/down scan when fishing on the bow and mapping. Have the 12” strictly for ffs when fishing. Hope that will work ok. That being said, would you say it’s overkill to have both graphs on the bow? I like having the 9” at the helm for mapping while the 12 is used for sonar at the helm (which may also be overkill, since the ultra2 is quick to process and change layouts). Wondering if I should just sell the 9” and purchase another 12” ultra2. Have one 12” at the helm and a 12” on the bow. I don’t want to be THAT guy with 3 to 4 screens on a tin boat. My dad joked on me about having more money in the electronics than the boat is worth lmao!

If it was me I'd consider one of two setups. 

 

1) The 12" up front and the 9" in the back. You absolutely want to be able to graph from the driver's seat. It's far more efficient to run sidescan with the big motor at 5 mph than it is to try and do it on the trolling motor.

 

2) The 12" up front and a cradle for the 9" up front and at the helm. Then you could pop it out of the back when you're ready to jump up front. A good buddy in my Jon Boat trail does this. He has 2 9" on the console and a 12" plus second cradle on the bow. When he's ready to fish he brings one from the console to the front with him. 

@JHoss heck yeah, I’ve been thinking about doing exactly option 2! But I’m thinking leave the 9” on the bow, an extra cradle for the 12” and bring it back and forth from helm to bow. I like having the bigger screen for sonar when graphing on the big motor. And everyone I’ve talked to says the 12” should be used for livescope over the 9”. Bigger screen helps distinguish what you are seeing from the transducer. But.. like your buddy I could do two 9” at the console. Have side and down scan on one, and traditional/mapping on the other. Ah so many options!

@TNriverRAT very good point. If you're already moving a unit, might as well move the big one. 

 

On my 1448, I have a 9" at the helm and a 10" on the bow. The next upgrade to that boat will either by an Ultrex or another graph on the bow. 

@JHoss yeah I’m going to stick with only two graphs for now. The more time spent using them I’ll have a better idea of how I want to move forward. But I definitely need a graph mount setup for the bow. Bass boat technologies has some pretty good looking mounts. Prices are very similar for two graphs and the single graph mount. I’m thinking about getting the two graph mount, so in the future I’ll be set up to expand if needed. 
 

An ultrex or the Garmin force would be a major upgrade to my minn kota maxxum. I want spot lock in a bad way. Also think the added weight on the bow would help ride stability. Currently have a lot of weight in the back of boat. Between myself, gas tank, batteries, outboard motor, electronics, etc. 

3 hours ago, JHoss said:

@TNriverRAT very good point. If you're already moving a unit, might as well move the big one. 

 

On my 1448, I have a 9" at the helm and a 10" on the bow. The next upgrade to that boat will either by an Ultrex or another graph on the bow. 

Unless you already have an ulterra, do the ultrex first.  Just an amazing piece of equipment.  

1 hour ago, TNriverRAT said:

@JHoss yeah I’m going to stick with only two graphs for now. The more time spent using them I’ll have a better idea of how I want to move forward. But I definitely need a graph mount setup for the bow. Bass boat technologies has some pretty good looking mounts. Prices are very similar for two graphs and the single graph mount. I’m thinking about getting the two graph mount, so in the future I’ll be set up to expand if needed. 
 

An ultrex or the Garmin force would be a major upgrade to my minn kota maxxum. I want spot lock in a bad way. Also think the added weight on the bow would help ride stability. Currently have a lot of weight in the back of boat. Between myself, gas tank, batteries, outboard motor, electronics, etc. 

I bought my boat rigged and it had a double mount up front, which is nice because I'll add another graph at some point.

 

Are you able to move your gas tank or batteries around? I have all the same in the back of my boat, but my tackle storage and livewell are up front to help balance it out. 

 

4 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

Unless you already have an ulterra, do the ultrex first.  Just an amazing piece of equipment.  

I have a Fortrex. I had an XI3 with spot lock on my kayak when I used to kayak fish. It was great, but I found myself using course lock more often than spot lock. But, I've definitely gotten more confident fishing offshore since I got the boat, so now I'm finding myself wanting spot lock far more often. 

8 minutes ago, JHoss said:

I have a Fortrex. I had an XI3 with spot lock on my kayak when I used to kayak fish. It was great, but I found myself using course lock more often than spot lock. But, I've definitely gotten more confident fishing offshore since I got the boat, so now I'm finding myself wanting spot lock far more often. 

 

The ultrex has both spot lock and course lock on the foot pedal (and mini remote).  On top, the foot pedal steering is power steering so it works like a cable steer but mini motors make the force reduce to nothing.  And you can turn the motor head in the smallest range of adjustment left and right if you want to get super precise (or are using live imaging).  You'll get far more benefit from the ultrex than an addition unit.

6 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

The ultrex has both spot lock and course lock on the foot pedal (and mini remote).  On top, the foot pedal steering is power steering so it works like a cable steer but mini motors make the force reduce to nothing.  And you can turn the motor head in the smallest range of adjustment left and right if you want to get super precise (or are using live imaging).  You'll get far more benefit from the ultrex than an addition unit.

Good to know. I think that's probably where I go. My Fortrex is rusting in spots and I can only cover it so many times before it gives out. I reckon when that happens, I'll be able to sell the wife on replacing it with an Ultrex easier than when I still have a functioning trolling motor. 

52 minutes ago, JHoss said:

Good to know. I think that's probably where I go. My Fortrex is rusting in spots and I can only cover it so many times before it gives out. I reckon when that happens, I'll be able to sell the wife on replacing it with an Ultrex easier than when I still have a functioning trolling motor. 

Or sell it while it still has some value and doesn't look all rusty...  the sooner you buy the new one the more total enjoyment time you'll have of it and the better the value!