I have this boat, that was given to me by some friends. It is in good shape, hull wise, and all the controls are free.

 

I am pretty ignorant of boats. I was on a boat like this once but it's been 20 years now.

 

It's a 16' Richline.

 

How stable are they? Would I be able to stand in the bow and bass fish or is it not stable enough for that?

 

What is the intended purpose of a boat like this?

 

Basically, I'm pondering on what to do with it.

 

 

 

It has a 40horse Evinrude, which needs work. Is that size of motor appropriate for this size of boat?

Its definitely stable enough to stand in. These tend to rock back and forth some but not much. And avoid large bodies of water and windy days. Find smaller waters, water with cover, etc. and stay closer to shore especially if that boat is missing its flotation devices which was usually foam in bench seats for a lot of boats like these.

 

If you use it in saltwater, all bets are off.

 

I've used nothing but aluminum boats for 40 years. And in a corrosive environment too. By following the rules I have had very little trouble from my boats when done right.

 

Cool old boat. How old? And you even have the right anchor! You might check your boat's specs and find that a 40hp is technically overpowering it. This can damage transoms. Most boats like yours and mine are rated in the 12 to 22hp range.

 

I have a U.S. Navy MARS 35hp motor on mine now and with two men in the boat it can still porpoise sometimes. Even worse when by myself. So I put all the weight like batteries and fuel tank under front deck to balance it out better and free up floor space in boat.

 

When it comes back together, you might consider doing a prop test to make sure you still have the correct propeller pitch for your boat and weight.

 

If you decide to restore it, whatever you do, research about aluminum and corrosive materials to not use in an aluminum boat like treated wood.

 

Also research galvanic corrosion and how to match hardware to same metal as hull to minimize it. There are companies who sell aluminum hardware. Use stainless where strength is needed like transom.

 

Also I see it is a riveted boat. You may have some bad rivets that need to be replaced.

 

There is an old epoxy trick to learn about how to use the sun and hull temperature change in shade to draw epoxy into seams and rivets. Heat hull, roll into shade and as hull cools it is contracting and applying epoxy during the temperature change can actually suck in or draw in epoxy deeper into seams and rivets.

 

If your transom needs work there are tricks to do there as well that don't require welding.

 

Be careful of any welding to hull. Been there. Done that. Scrapped. Lesson learned. Thick hulls can be welded but if thin, beware.

 

Also be aware that it appears your boat no longer has any sort of flotation devices. They may have been removed or may be under that sub deck. Don't use spray foam directly on aluminum.

 

Don't use the hull for electrical ground because those flowing electrons through hull can greatly accelerate galvanic corrosion.

 

The previous owner of my old boat welded the transom and then promptly broke his welds with overpowering the boat with a 60hp motor. I tore it all apart and used just two pieces of metal to repair it. Custom cut rear 1/4" aluminum plate, and heavy aluminum cross member at top that has hinge bolts on each end/side that can now give when under heavy motor thrust. Nothing to crack and break now.

 

When dealing with aluminum, especially here in Florida that is one of the most corrosive states in the union, you gotta follow the rules.

 

Your old boat is not too different from mine. A 1974 AlumaCraft made in Minnesota. Now 51 years old. The front deck I installed is made with aluminum grade matching hull and all hardware is also aluminum. I did not use the old bench hull mounts for the rear of this deck. I made custom hand hammered hanger bars for each so when a large heavy man steps up onto the front deck all the weight is supported from thick top rail. If I had used the old bench mounts in thin hull I would have had issues by now.

 

The decking material is PVC expanded foam boards- that float. So no corrosive materials used at all and galvanic corrosion issues minimized.

 

Just little details that add up to a successful overhaul.

 

If the hull is salvageable, do a restore and show us a step by step process in photos right here on the forum. I'd follow it! 

 

If that boat were mine, some of the first things I would do is strip it down to the hull and remove metals that cause galvanic corrosion. The way it works is the weakest metal is what gives way. And in your case that is your hull where that steel bracket is on bow and other stronger metals on hull. Remove that ASAP! And if that is treated wood and plywood sub deck there, I would get that out as soon as possible and inspect for hull pitting and damage from the chemicals used in that wood.

 

Fix her up and you will have a fine fishing boat for years to come!

 

 

Since your boat seems to have corrosive wood in it, and steel, especially rustable steel metal bolted to it, remove ASAP and examine hull underneath for galvanic corrosion. You will want to stop that process immediately.

 

I would get that boat stripped down, and get it off the trailer as soon as possible. You will need to inspect the boat where it has sat on the bunks for years. If those bunks are made with pressure treated wood, you could have corrosion everywhere on that hull that touched those bunks and could be 3 inches wide from a 1.5" 2x4.

 

You will also need to have boat off trailer to restore the trailer. And install non-corrosive bunks. We can get into that and other stuff later as you come to it.

 

Oh and before slapping a coat of paint on it. Do your homework! Aluminum requires specialized primers! I went full tilt industrial on my boat. Correct primer and use of specialized aluthane, and then industrial epoxy inside and out. Like having 3 hulls in one. The epoxy used on my boat is what government uses on water towers. Not cheap!

 

 

 

As a teen, I fished from a boat nearly identical to this.  No problems with standing to fish.  
Just wondering…was the previous owner a plumber?

Judging from the photos someone tried to convert the boat into a bass boat and neglected taking care of it.
You will need to completely take everything out of the boat to determine what condition the hull is in. Lots of work and TLC project but worth the effort if the outboard engine is in decent shape. 
You may know nothing about the boat at this time but you will need to learn to restore back to a safe operating boat.

The trailer look worse with rust on the tongue and you need to check to see if the metal is solid or rusted beyond saving. Take a hammer a hit the metal rusted areas to see if it is solid or not.

The flooring is toast and the “pedestal ” is unique!

MN Fisher has restored a very similar boat and is a wealth of information that will help you.

The stick steering is a concern and must be checked out.

Good luck, it’s project and will take time and lots if elbow grease.

Tom 

 

34 minutes ago, WRB-2.0 said:

Good luck, it’s project and will take time and lots if elbow grease.

Tom 

Looking at the pics, I agree with Tom that it needs to be torn down to bare hull and rebuilt from the keel up.

Before building any type of super-structure, all holes need to be sealed - even those 'above the water line'....this is what I used for that.

The wood appears to not be treated. It's all rotted, and the transome is wood. So yeah, I know it'll all need replaced. I do workwood for a living, so that is easy enough for me. 

 

I am pretty handy with metal so I have no problems with doing this type of work. I wasn't aware of steel causing corrosion on aluminum, I'll have to research some about that and come up to speed on it.

 

The hull appears to be in very good condition as far as all the rivets being tight, no dents, no repairs that I can find. No extra holes.

 

The previous owners let the boat sit from around 2012. Before that the used it on the river for fishing various things. They weren't dedicated bass fishermen, more into crappie I think. One of them died and the other gave up fishing as a result.

 

These pictures are from 2 years ago, when I first got it and cleaned it out. Condition hasn't changed, except I've removed some things, such as the anchor locks and cleaned them up and painted them.

 

The motor is locked, but I think it's the water pump from my quick inspection.

 

The steering and throttle and gear shift are free, though the cables are rusty.

 

The trailer seems to be solid, just ugly. I will of course go through the trailer, replace or at least repack the bearings, and so forth.

46 minutes ago, OldManLure said:

As a teen, I fished from a boat nearly identical to this.  No problems with standing to fish.  
Just wondering…was the previous owner a plumber?

I am not sure if they were a plumber, but it's certain they had an Ace Hardware available to them.

1 minute ago, Bazoo said:

The trailer seems to be solid, just ugly. I will of course go through the trailer, replace or at least repack the bearings, and so forth.

The trailer I got with mine was a rust-bucket upon first glance....but it turned out to be solid. Paint remover, wire bush and a base coat cleaned that all up....and I replaced ALL the bolts/washers/nuts.

 

I would recommend replacing the hardware and anything that looks a little wonky.

 

Before - after main disassembly.

 

Just before carpeting the new bunks.

Put the engine in neutral. Pull the spark plugs, should be 2 and number them. See if the plugs are rusted.

Spray some 2 cycle oil into the spark plugs holes before trying to turn over the engine. Imagine there is a pull start cord to turn the engine over so it’s not locked up, leave the plugs out. The oil should help to break the pistons loose without damaging them.

Tom

@MN Fisher turned an old rust bucket into a nice little basstrek all on his own. Upgraded the trailer too.

 

It was quite an impressive feat IMO

16 minutes ago, WRB-2.0 said:

Put the engine in neutral. Pull the spark plugs, should be 2 and number them. See if the plugs are rusted.

Spray some 2 cycle oil into the spark plugs holes before trying to turn over the engine. Imagine there is a pull start cord to turn the engine over so it’s not locked up, leave the plugs out. The oil should help to break the pistons loose without damaging them.

Tom

I have removed the cylinders and oiled them, then tried to turn it over the pistons move about 1/4". Looks good in the cylinders, as in, no rust, so this is why I am thinking the water pump is locked up.

 

I haven't learned how to disassemble the lower unit yet, but that's coming.

 

So far, I have enjoyed learning about boats and outboards.

 

More pictures

 

 

 

 

 

if the gears are in neutral the power head is disengage from the lower unit drive shaft .The water pump is probably in bad condition and should be replaced, but is rubber and couldn’t seize the engine power head.

Way2Slow, Kieth, is the resident expert on your 40 hp Evinrude/ Johnson engine.

Tom

 

Just now, WRB-2.0 said:

if the gears are in neutral the power head is disengage from the lower unit drive shaft .The water pump is probably in bad condition and should be replaced, but is rubber and couldn’t seize the engine power head.

Tom

 

So the cylinder will move if it's in neutral, regardless of lower unit? Okay. I don't know if it was in neutral or not. I'll have to check again.

Have someone turn the prop counter clockwise while you work the gearshift  back and forth. The shift mechanism on those old OMC’s gets pretty finicky, and likes some gear train movement to free up.

1 minute ago, ElGuapo928 said:

Have someone turn the prop counter clockwise while you work the gearshift  back and forth. The shift mechanism on those old OMC’s gets pretty finicky, and likes some gear train movement to free up.

Thanks. What is OMC'S?

Outboard Marine Corporation- Parent company of Evinrude and Johnson.

I just went out and looked at it again. The shifter is hard to move, but it moves. With it in neutral, the engine will not turn over, and the prop will not turn. The flywheel moves a tiny amount, and you can see the pistons moving 1/8" or so. Both pistons/bores when viewed from the spark plug holes are free of rust.

 

I stood on the prop and bounced a couple of times and it's froze solid.

 

I pried lightly against the flywheel and whatever that's binding didn't budge at all, either direction.

 

Anyone have a best guess? I'm guessing the transmission is locked up?

 

I've never seen a motor locked up that would move a bit. But I ain't had a tone of experience with motors of any type.

1 minute ago, Bazoo said:

Anyone have a best guess? I'm guessing the transmission is locked up?

IMO: It's either that (best case) or a seized piston (worst case)

 

If you can find one - the best thing I invested in for my '73 25hp Evinrude was a copy of the shop manual...not the owner's or service manual - this is the one mechanics use for fixing or even rebuilding motors.

If the gear is neutral the prop should turn easily, something is haywire with the lower unit drive shaft.

Tom

Thanks guys. I have a manual for it, similar to a Haynes manual. I forget what the brand is without digging it out. Pretty sure it's not a service manual. 

I owned a 1960 Rich Line for 20+ years. It was a good boat and served me well. 

 

Did some major updates in 2021. 

 

 

 

3 minutes ago, Bazoo said:

similar to a Haynes manual

Yep - that's the little devil....following that you can tear down a motor and rebuild it.

My guess is that the lower unit is locked up. Could be a big problem, could be a complete nothing-burger. 
 

It’s been a minute since I’ve been into an Evinrude, but if I remember right those have a worm drive, which will lock up solid in the absence of free movement in the entire gear train.

 

If you’ve got a Clymer manual, that will give you pretty much all you need to drop the lower unit and rebuild it if needed. 

Found a video that shows the gears, if this is the same for my motor, which sounds like it's pretty much the same for all of them, then it is quite simple. I'll guess that it is multiple bearings being locked. One or more on the driveshaft, and 1 or more on the output shaft.

 

Maybe I'll get lucky.

 

Heres the video I found.

 

13 hours ago, FloridaFishinFool said:

Its definitely stable enough to stand in. These tend to rock back and forth some but not much. And avoid large bodies of water and windy days. Find smaller waters, water with cover, etc. and stay closer to shore especially if that boat is missing its flotation devices which was usually foam in bench seats for a lot of boats like these.

 

If you use it in saltwater, all bets are off.

 

I've used nothing but aluminum boats for 40 years. And in a corrosive environment too. By following the rules I have had very little trouble from my boats when done right.

 

Cool old boat. How old? And you even have the right anchor! You might check your boat's specs and find that a 40hp is technically overpowering it. This can damage transoms. Most boats like yours and mine are rated in the 12 to 22hp range.

 

I have a U.S. Navy MARS 35hp motor on mine now and with two men in the boat it can still porpoise sometimes. Even worse when by myself. So I put all the weight like batteries and fuel tank under front deck to balance it out better and free up floor space in boat.

 

When it comes back together, you might consider doing a prop test to make sure you still have the correct propeller pitch for your boat and weight.

 

If you decide to restore it, whatever you do, research about aluminum and corrosive materials to not use in an aluminum boat like treated wood.

 

Also research galvanic corrosion and how to match hardware to same metal as hull to minimize it. There are companies who sell aluminum hardware. Use stainless where strength is needed like transom.

 

Also I see it is a riveted boat. You may have some bad rivets that need to be replaced.

 

There is an old epoxy trick to learn about how to use the sun and hull temperature change in shade to draw epoxy into seams and rivets. Heat hull, roll into shade and as hull cools it is contracting and applying epoxy during the temperature change can actually suck in or draw in epoxy deeper into seams and rivets.

 

If your transom needs work there are tricks to do there as well that don't require welding.

 

Be careful of any welding to hull. Been there. Done that. Scrapped. Lesson learned. Thick hulls can be welded but if thin, beware.

 

Also be aware that it appears your boat no longer has any sort of flotation devices. They may have been removed or may be under that sub deck. Don't use spray foam directly on aluminum.

 

Don't use the hull for electrical ground because those flowing electrons through hull can greatly accelerate galvanic corrosion.

 

The previous owner of my old boat welded the transom and then promptly broke his welds with overpowering the boat with a 60hp motor. I tore it all apart and used just two pieces of metal to repair it. Custom cut rear 1/4" aluminum plate, and heavy aluminum cross member at top that has hinge bolts on each end/side that can now give when under heavy motor thrust. Nothing to crack and break now.

 

When dealing with aluminum, especially here in Florida that is one of the most corrosive states in the union, you gotta follow the rules.

 

Your old boat is not too different from mine. A 1974 AlumaCraft made in Minnesota. Now 51 years old. The front deck I installed is made with aluminum grade matching hull and all hardware is also aluminum. I did not use the old bench hull mounts for the rear of this deck. I made custom hand hammered hanger bars for each so when a large heavy man steps up onto the front deck all the weight is supported from thick top rail. If I had used the old bench mounts in thin hull I would have had issues by now.

 

The decking material is PVC expanded foam boards- that float. So no corrosive materials used at all and galvanic corrosion issues minimized.

 

Just little details that add up to a successful overhaul.

 

If the hull is salvageable, do a restore and show us a step by step process in photos right here on the forum. I'd follow it! 

 

If that boat were mine, some of the first things I would do is strip it down to the hull and remove metals that cause galvanic corrosion. The way it works is the weakest metal is what gives way. And in your case that is your hull where that steel bracket is on bow and other stronger metals on hull. Remove that ASAP! And if that is treated wood and plywood sub deck there, I would get that out as soon as possible and inspect for hull pitting and damage from the chemicals used in that wood.

 

Fix her up and you will have a fine fishing boat for years to come!

 

 

Since your boat seems to have corrosive wood in it, and steel, especially rustable steel metal bolted to it, remove ASAP and examine hull underneath for galvanic corrosion. You will want to stop that process immediately.

 

I would get that boat stripped down, and get it off the trailer as soon as possible. You will need to inspect the boat where it has sat on the bunks for years. If those bunks are made with pressure treated wood, you could have corrosion everywhere on that hull that touched those bunks and could be 3 inches wide from a 1.5" 2x4.

 

You will also need to have boat off trailer to restore the trailer. And install non-corrosive bunks. We can get into that and other stuff later as you come to it.

 

Oh and before slapping a coat of paint on it. Do your homework! Aluminum requires specialized primers! I went full tilt industrial on my boat. Correct primer and use of specialized aluthane, and then industrial epoxy inside and out. Like having 3 hulls in one. The epoxy used on my boat is what government uses on water towers. Not cheap!

 

 

 

That’s a nice boat ya got and an even nicer motor. Perfect for most all waters in Florida. Nice work. 

Did a little more investigation today. Found the capacity plate and removed it so I could read it. It's super faded. It was simply nailed on the wooden transom.

 

It is rated for a 40HP motor, 4 persons and 1100 pounds.

-------

There are a few extra holes where they had mounted things with machine screws.

 

The bottom is flat at the stern and transforms into a V. Doing some research tells me this is a semi-v hull, and it has soft edges.

 

How stable will this boat actually be for standing in the bow? I don't want a boat that's just "doable" I want stable since I have balance issues.

 

Basically, I'm trying to decide what I'm going to do with it. No reason to try to make this into a bass boat if it's going to be so unstable I can't stand in the bow.