Hello Everyone -

I have a Minnkota Terrova trolling motor (Model # 1358862 - Serial # L105MK00080, 80 lb/60"/i-Pilot).

I bought the boat used so I do not have the manual or know the full history of the trolling motor.

What I do know is that it currently will go up to speed 5 - and if I turn it up past that the motor turns off.

Oddly this does not happen when I try the motor while on land -- but anytime the motor is in the water it shuts off when it is turned up to anything beyond speed 5.

I have cleaned the blade area (took the blade off, cleaned some line/gunk off) - yet it has not made a difference.

Any and all trouble shooting ideas are welcomed !

Thank you in advance for your time and expertise. 

I am unable to provide assistance for the Goblins in your unit.

But here's a list of online manuals for the motor.

You'll need to ensure you select the one specific to your application.

https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/support/manuals/trolling-motors/terrova

Good Luck

A-Jay

Can you describe what is changing the speed in your motor?

 

I tried looking it up and could not find what I was looking for. Some motors use a switch to change speeds by way of fixed wire wound resistor coils down inside the motor kept in the water to keep them cool.

 

Other motors use electronics to drive the motor with a variable speed control.

 

Since you said your motor has 5 speeds, it sounds like to me your motor is using the old switch and speed coils method.

 

If so, then that is more than likely where the culprit is if the motor works and turns fine and you are only losing top end speed. The problem could be related to the switch or speed coils or internal wiring and connection burning up under standard 50 amp approximate draw for these motors.

 

A motor driven by electronics tends to sweep through all speeds using the same electronics to drive it. So if the top end would fail with these, all speeds should not be working. So based on what you said and how you said it tends to point me towards your speed controls and not the motor.

 

A common issue with that type of speed control are the switches overheating and beginning to melt the plastic housing leading to switch shape deforming as it slowly burns up and melts and deforms certain contacts can move out of place and no longer connect. You could also have burned contacts inside the switch for that mode of operation since we are talking on average about 50 amps draw at full speed. And wiring and connections at the switch or down in motor could be culprit as well. If motor was bad it would not work fine on any speed. Losing one speed points me to speed controls.

 

 

A secondary speed issue happens down inside the motor where the speed coils are. If one of those opens up it could cause a loss of speed control in specific speed modes as well.

 

 

I am going to mention what I do just to give you some ideas about how you choose to move forward. You can fix what you have and get right back into the same boat- no pun intended- that you are in now, or you could use this as an opportunity to change the game for more durability and endlessly variable speed control not just 5 speeds which might not match your conditions where variable does, and more energy efficient so you can troll longer on same battery charge.

 

If it were my trolling motor I would customize it rather than repair this type of problem and eliminate the switch and speed coils all together and simply go with a variable digital pulse electronic motor driver.

 

I take broken old trolling motors and wire directly to the brushes and toss in the trash the stock speed controls and use digital electronics to drive them and have zero issues with my electronics in decades of use. 40 years to be exact. Its amazing how well electronics driven motors works as compared to the switches and speed coils wasting battery energy as heat and heat causing failures.

 

This is a free 24v 80lb motor some guy burned up the factory digital electronics motor driver mounted down inside the motor underwater- which killed this one. I ripped out the stock electronics and wired directly to the brushes. Motor back in business.

 

 

Then added in a new aftermarket pulse width MOSFET high speed variable power supply with forward and reverse and comes with a motor braking circuit no trolling motor brands include in any trolling motors at any price. They let the water brake their motors. I can instantly reverse mine thanks to the added brake circuit.

 

This one is for 24 volts and higher.

 

 

 

For 12 volts I use the 1984/85 Minn Kota maximizers. The best thing ever invented since sliced bread! Today you pay thousands of dollars to get this kind of motor speed controls in trolling motors.

 

I can do it for under $100. That includes motors and electronics to drive them. Anyone can do it. Minn Kota made it so it can be sold right over the counter.

 

Take a read on what you gain by doing it this way... 3 times the trolling on same battery charge. What this ad says is that the old way of switches and speed coils is wasting battery energy as heat down inside the motor underwater. Cutting out all that stuff and look at the increase!

 

And its far more durable. I am using a 1985 Minn Kota motor driver that still works flawlessly 40 years later! Even the new Minn Kota trolling motors electronics are not as reliable as this one is!

 

I just wanted to throw this out there to give you some alternative ideas that point you in the direction of longer hours of trolling on same battery charge, and point you in the direction of more durability as well.

 

Its either fix what you have and puts you right back into same situation you are in now down the road, or change course and sail into the hidden secret of trolling motor electronics that today costs thousands of dollars. It does not have to be that way! Both of my electronics motor drivers cost under $100.

 

The following Minn Kota add says "Rheostats slowed motors by BURNING energy as heat" down inside the motors using those speed coils to waste battery energy! You cold eliminate that with this opportunity, or fix what you have and repeat it over and over through time.

 

Those plastic switches do burn up. It could also be wiring and connection issues inside trolling motor or housing. Its a shame the most common speed controls found out there are the most likely to fail. Switches and coils and wiring not up to the task as well.

 

 

 

I bet most people around here will say fix what you have! Which is easiest. But same boat down the road! Granted what I do is not for most people. I'm an old shop guy so this type of thing is a fun challenge for me. But the results are by far worth it to me.

 

I post a long comment like this one simply to help inform others of options they may not otherwise think of or come into contact with anywhere else since most people will say fix what you have repeatedly. I just want to offer alternatives and outside the box thinking.

it sounds like you have a breaker tripping from high amperage.  When in the water, the load on the prop is enough that it pulls more current than if you're running it in just air.

 

Check if you have a breaker in the area of the batteries.  That would be the ideal scenario if that is tripping (has gone bad) and needs to be replaced.  If not, it could be inside the motor itself.  

@FloridaFishinFool - Thank you for the information - wow, a lot to take in ! I am a novice with electronics so I may have to re-read your excellent/informative post - with that said I am a determined/curious learner - so I am open to looking at a wide variety of solutions to the issue (which might be going with the option you offered) - yes, it is a 24v trolling motor, wired to 2 - size 27 - 12v AGM batteries (purchased and installed in May 2025') 

The current trolling motor on the boat has a total of 10 speeds (I am not sure if I am describing that correctly) - on the foot pedal controller the speed "wheel" goes from 0 (off) to 10 (highest speed level) - currently if I turn that dial to 1,2,3,4,5 the motor is fine and runs well - yet once I turn that dial past 5, the motor shuts off (when the boat is on the water and the trolling motor/blade area is in the water) - if I am on land and run thru the speeds the motor operates fine (ie, the blade turns and adjusts speed at all setting - speed 1 thru speed 10) - so having the trolling motor/blade in the water seems to be a difference maker (and it certainly does me no good to have a trolling motor that operates fine on land but not in the water !!)

The trolling motor came with a remote control - I have never used that and will have to go get a new battery for it today - I can then check and see if it does the same thing when using the remote control (vs. the wired in foot pedal controller) - this could help me narrow down the what might be causing the issue

 

@casts_by_fly - very good information, Thank you !

I will take a look for/at the breaker this afternoon.

2 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

it sounds like you have a breaker tripping from high amperage.  When in the water, the load on the prop is enough that it pulls more current than if you're running it in just air.

 

Check if you have a breaker in the area of the batteries.  That would be the ideal scenario if that is tripping (has gone bad) and needs to be replaced.  If not, it could be inside the motor itself.  

 

Its possible if it is an auto resetting breaker. I did not think of that one. Its possible. If breaker trips wouldn't that shut down the motor at all speeds?

 

Unless it is an auto resetting breaker- it could be. Good call. Its possible.

 

OP said "What I do know is that it currently will go up to speed 5 - and if I turn it up past that the motor turns off.

Oddly this does not happen when I try the motor while on land -- but anytime the motor is in the water it shuts off when it is turned up to anything beyond speed 5."

 

I avoided breaker because he said it did work at high speed, but NOT in the water which loads the motor. I went for speed controls, but an auto resetting breaker could be a good call culprit in this case because an unloaded motor draws less than a loaded motor would.

 

I've never seen a situation running that close between on land and in water. It would be an odd situation if it were. One I have never seen before.

 

Interesting if this is the case! But changing speed controls for ANY reason is a plus in my book. I want that extra efficiency and longer trolling hours and the variable speed works well with changing wind and current conditions that 5 speed limitations may not work well with.

 

Great suggestion CBF!

5 minutes ago, FloridaFishinFool said:

 

Its possible if it is an auto resetting breaker. I did not think of that one. Its possible. If breaker trips wouldn't that shut down the motor at all speeds?

 

Unless it is an auto resetting breaker- it could be. Good call. Its possible.

 

OP said "What I do know is that it currently will go up to speed 5 - and if I turn it up past that the motor turns off.

Oddly this does not happen when I try the motor while on land -- but anytime the motor is in the water it shuts off when it is turned up to anything beyond speed 5."

 

I avoided breaker because he said it did work at high speed, but NOT in the water which loads the motor. I went for speed controls, but an auto resetting breaker could be a good call culprit in this case because an unloaded motor draws less than a loaded motor would.

 

I've never seen a situation running that close between on land and in water. It would be an odd situation if it were. One I have never seen before.

 

Interesting if this is the case! But changing speed controls for ANY reason is a plus in my book. I want that extra efficiency and longer trolling hours and the variable speed works well with changing wind and current conditions that 5 speed limitations may not work well with.

 

Great suggestion CBF!

 

 

Yeah, that's my thinking.  It is an auto resetting breaker either in the back (less likely) or in the motor itself (more likely).  But checking for one in the back of the boat is super easy to check.  if that's the cause, it would cut out at higher amperage until he turns it off and it resets.  

 

 

42 minutes ago, WaskaCrank12 said:

@FloridaFishinFool - Thank you for the information - wow, a lot to take in ! I am a novice with electronics so I may have to re-read your excellent/informative post - with that said I am a determined/curious learner - so I am open to looking at a wide variety of solutions to the issue (which might be going with the option you offered) - yes, it is a 24v trolling motor, wired to 2 - size 27 - 12v AGM batteries (purchased and installed in May 2025') 

The current trolling motor on the boat has a total of 10 speeds (I am not sure if I am describing that correctly) - on the foot pedal controller the speed "wheel" goes from 0 (off) to 10 (highest speed level) - currently if I turn that dial to 1,2,3,4,5 the motor is fine and runs well - yet once I turn that dial past 5, the motor shuts off (when the boat is on the water and the trolling motor/blade area is in the water) - if I am on land and run thru the speeds the motor operates fine (ie, the blade turns and adjusts speed at all setting - speed 1 thru speed 10) - so having the trolling motor/blade in the water seems to be a difference maker (and it certainly does me no good to have a trolling motor that operates fine on land but not in the water !!)

The trolling motor came with a remote control - I have never used that and will have to go get a new battery for it today - I can then check and see if it does the same thing when using the remote control (vs. the wired in foot pedal controller) - this could help me narrow down the what might be causing the issue

 

 

Now we are getting to a different scenario. A 10 speed motor?

 

If you DO have an electronics motor driver, then its possible the problem is in the electronic speed control. Many of these use mechanical relays inside. These also burn up the same as the speed switches. They usually do not use semiconductors to switch this much current. So I am now leaning towards a mechanical relay or something inside has been affected by the high current draw.

 

You could have issues there. It does not sound like the motor driver circuit has failed all together because the same electronics drives motor through all speeds. If you are losing the highest speed under load, then this indicates the maximum current draw is causing an issue with that motor driver.

 

Engineers and corporations are kind of funny in this area. If left up to the engineers they design electronics to carry the loads and handle it easily over long term. But if it does not burn up the corporation does not get return customers buying new stuff or parts and repairs.

 

So corporations demand engineers design stuff to just meet the minimums needed to get the job done. I see this same thing in other electronics as well. If a circuit draws 50 amps they will use a 60 amp part rather than a 100 amp part kind of thing. Bare minimum for corporate profits over durability.

 

They call this built in obsolescence. Done 100% intentionally too!

 

ADDED:

 

One thing engineers are doing these days is circuit stacking. Here is an AI description of what they are doing to achieve variable levels of operation in power supplies:

 

"A multiple-rail MOSFET power supply uses power MOSFETs to create and control different voltage outputs, or rails, from a single power source. This can involve sequencing the activation of different rails or providing a more flexible power architecture for devices that require various voltages, such as analog circuits needing both positive and negative voltages or digital circuits needing different fixed levels. MOSFETs are ideal for this due to their ability to handle high power and act as efficient switches to direct power to specific rails based on a control signal."

 

And this is more than likely what Minn Kota engineers are doing as well. It is very common these days throughout all industries. Audio. Motors. Lighting. You name it. Anything needing driven by power supplies is getting this type of design these days because of its efficiency.

 

A Hi-Fonics Zeus audio power amplifier is a good example. Engineers either build single rail pulse width MOSFET power supplies or they build multiple stacked levels of power supplies.

 

When I turn on a Zeus and volume is low, only level one power supply is driving audio amplifier. But as I turn up the volume and demand more current draw to amplifiers, now level two kicks in, and then at full volume level 3 power supply adds in to the supply rails going to amplifiers.

 

Motors work the same way. Turn on low speeds and level one power supply is sending voltage down the rails. Turn up the speed and levels 2 and however many others are needed automatically kick in based on demand.

 

And its possible your electronics may be designed similar and you can lose one or more of those power supplies. Burned foil runs on circuit board. Mechanical relays. If the semiconductors shorted out in any of those 3 levels of power supplies it would blow fuses and breakers instantly. Nothing would work.

 

So now what you are saying is 1 the motor works. Not the issue more than likely. And 2 the driver electronics has partially failed in the highest current section and is borderline if it works on land but not in water. That little bit of current change may be enough to cause the problem. Its an odd issue to say the least. Not common from my experiences.

 

I am an old bench electronics tech who had to repair these power supplies for years. I always installed higher current semiconductors just so I did not have to see it come back in again if possible.

 

Just throwing this out there as well to help narrow down your problem based on your descriptions alone. I love repair detective threads! They go all over the place until the final solution conclusion! And its endlessly hilarious when we are all wrong! Nice to be right every once in awhile though. Or on target at least!

 

These threads can be informative though.... and that is a good thing!

Your motor is recent enough and needs a 60 amp circuit breaker.  A lot of older boats came from the factory with a 50 amp breaker.  At that time motors  were not as powerful.  With a 50 amp breaker when you go over speed  5, it draws too much and the breaker trips.  It a resetable breaker so it goes back on after a while.  Out of the water, like it has been said, the prop is not under tension, so it does not happen because it doesn't draw as much.

This will also happen if your wires are too long or not big enough. (gauge).

I am on phone with minn kota repair rep right now. He says your electronics is old analog. Today its all digital. Because it is an ST model there are no more circuit boards or remotes available for it.

 

AA serial number began in 2000. L being 12th letter in alphabet add one year for each letter. Serial number L is around 11 or 12 years later or 2011/2012 era.

 

14 years is pretty good!

 

He said buy a new one because repairing this old one is pricey.

 

Since he repairs these motors daily he had a totally different scenario in mind based on your description.

 

He said that it sounds like your 2011 motor may have worn out brushes, and or the magnets may have lost some charge down in the motor leading to increased current draw from the motor. He said those old driver electronics come with a built in current limitation circuit to prevent over current situations. They simply shut themselves off rather than try and deliver excessive current to the motor.

 

He said without seeing it he could not be sure. Its either motor now drawing too much current and working driver electronics is shutting itself off to prevent physical burning, or the driver electronics has failed or control board. He said the shop still has remotes and circuit boards he uses to check out and test motors with of that era. Some can be repaired. Others can't. It depends on what is wrong.

 

He said he could test your motor to diagnose it properly with the extra parts he has in the shop, but the shop is not going to give any of those up because they are no longer available from Minn Kota and you have to hunt for working parts on your own in used markets if you choose to repair this one.

 

But I can tell you if it is the motor only, you can replace it fairly cheaply without going to minn kota for the motor. A newer used 24v/80lb motor will work. It just takes labor to switch them out. But without a proper Minn Kota rep diagnosing your problem I would not recommend you attempt any repairs yourself and waste money on something that may not be the problem. Find a Minn Kota rep in your area and let them diagnose it.

 

He said straight up since it is that old to just replace it and buy a new one.

 

Too bad you are in Minnesota! I would either help you customize that one cheaply if I lived close enough, or be happy to take this one off your hands when you buy your new one! Then I would customize it for myself! Ha! No, I don't need another 24v/80lb thrust. I'm going straight for the big boy the 36v/110lb motor.

 

Presently I am running my 12v/55lb motor because my power supply failed from corrosion when I stupidly stored it too close to a bottle of muriatic acid the fumes of that acid corroded the power supply badly. Now I have to buy another one, but have been holding off until I just got this 36v/110lb motor as my next project.

 

 

This is the 40 year old awesome Minn Kota maximizer designed and built back in mid 1980's. Works awesome to this day. Made before remote controls though.

 

 

This power supply is 12 to 60 volts but only 70 amps. Worked great on my 24/80, but I want a 100amp supply for my 36/110. When I purchased this one it was under $50. A 100 amp supply may cost me over $100 or $200. Still cheaper than a fully electronic new trolling motor.

 

 

 

Maybe it's not as old as that.  MinnKota motors with I Pilot appeared on the market in 2017.

The Minn Kota repair tech I spoke with yesterday said they started the alphabet use in 2000 and began with AA, with "A" representing zero. So "B" would be 2001, "C" 2002, etc. right on up to this OP's "L" he figured was 2011.

 

Just passing on what I was told and how he figured it.

 

If what he said was correct and the motor may be behind drawing too much current shutting down working motor driver supply and the control board all still works, then the cheapest solution here would be to rebuild the motor or simply replace the motor with a newer one. Then it may work fine again. IF. And that is a big IF.

 

But from my experience, when I rebuild a motor and go to the shop to buy all the parts I have needed in the past the price of all parts was less than $20. All I had to buy was new brushes, new housing seals, and shaft seals. That was it.

 

But if what he said is correct and the motor may have bigger issues like magnets weakening, or armature/coil problems, those would be more costly. But still a lot cheaper than an entire new trolling motor.

 

Again, just throwing this out there trying to be helpful.

Sorry if I missed this. Are your batteries in good shape and do any of your power cables get hot? The reason it’s not doing it outside the water is everytbing is moving freely. When you are trying to use it to move the boat it is under load. So my guess is it’s drawing more than your batteries can put out. Are your cables in good shape from the batteries? If you have any exposed rubbing somewhere this can be a cause of the problem too. 
 

Before you go jumping into the motor itself look at everything you can that is related to powering it. 

Hello @Susky River Rat - thank you for the info. 

The two batteries (Duracell series 27 - 12v each) were purchased new this year - they charge fully thru the onboard charger - so I think the batteries are good, but I will also check them as newer does not mean they are working perfectly.

@Reel @FloridaFishinFool @casts_by_fly have also all brought up good info/ideas -

I will dig deeper into it when I have time this weekend - yet it seems my next most immediate steps will be to check the breakers/fuses (there seem to be 4 fuses total, they are located on the wires that go to the batteries) - I will also look to trace and check all of the wires from the trolling motor to the batteries to see if there are cracks/fraying/other problems (the previous owner of the boat would have done all the wiring from the trolling motor to where they connect with the batteries) 

If nothing pans out with those steps then I will have to look into steps that @FloridaFishinFool has mentioned

Thank you to each of you as I am a real novice when it comes to wiring/electronics so your input is greatly appreciated !

Your boat may justify a complete rewire of the trolling motor. The newer motors require higher amperage, and most boats were built with the bare minimum for their era. My Ranger was wired up with 6 gauge from the factory - after replacing it with 4 gauge and eliminating several unnecessary crimp connectors, my old Motorguide ran like I had gone up a size in motors. It also quit doing the “ran too long in high” intermittent cutout.

@ElGuapo928 - thank you - the boat is a 93' LUND (Tyee ll, 16.5 foot) so it very well may be wiring/amperage - I am the third owner of the boat - so I do not know the history of the wiring (ie, is it original ? had it been updated/changed at any point ? are there any crimp connections ?)

As I have mentioned I am a novice when it comes to wiring/electrical but I am learning (ie, I am learning about wire gauge, amps, conductivity, ect....)  

It has been mentioned that many older boats had 50amp yet newer electronics/trolling motors may require 60amp - my guess is the same thing applies to wiring (ie, moving from 6 gauge to 4 gauge)

Thank you ! and I will keep you guys updated

Being a ‘93, I’m willing to bet that your boat has been visited by the Bad Wiring Elves more than once. 32 years is a lot of corrosion and oxidation, and it would be a relatively cheap and easy weekend project. 
 

I put about $150 into mine, from batteries to bow, including new circuit breakers, plug/receptacle and a voltmeter for the bow that actually works. 

WaskaCrank12 said: " the boat is a 93' LUND (Tyee ll, 16.5 foot) so it very well may be wiring/amperage"

 

I doubt it.

 

Wiring generally works or it don't. Usually if wiring begins to not work somewhere in the chain, if you go to over current, something should be heating up and burning and smoking somewhere like a connection or wire or something that is already in the process of failing, unless you have an auto-resetting circuit breaker in there somewhere. That could do what is described in this thread. But I seriously doubt wiring can work for 30 or 40 amps and then not work at 50 without something smoking. That would be very unusual indeed and unlikely is my point.

 

Bad connections at 50amps are bad connections at 40 and 30 and 20 type of thing.

 

Once bad wiring connections happens it is usually all or nothing and something smoking. Yours is shutting down and no smoke noticed. So that points to something else as I see it. You need some test gear. Multimeters and current meters would help solve this in minutes.

 

One of the devices used in trolling motor shops is this little jewel right here. I custom made mine from an old military grade Triplett 50 amp meter. I simply added the wiring and made sure to use the correct shunt resistor for this model. I can change shunt resistors and recalibrate this meter for alternative scaling and read 100 amps if need be. I have this one set for 50amp as it has been all I need for my own testing and current problem diagnosing.

 

If you took it to a trolling motor shop they might pull one of these out for your boat unless they can diagnose it without test gear.

 

This one cost me $12.95 for the meter and a couple bucks for the wiring. So now I have just the right tool for testing current on just about any trolling motor and wiring in any boat. Less than $20. Anyone can make these. Meters can be found easily online. Just add wiring and shunt and good to go.

 

With this you can insert anywhere in wiring chain and find out real fast where there is or is not current as needed.

 

 

 

Most everything prewired for a trolling motor since the mid-80’s will have circuit breakers in it, usually pretty close to the battery boxes. They might be even lower rating than expected. The Tracker we’re redoing had 30’s in it. Always worth checking into.

Hello @ElGuapo928 @FloridaFishinFool @Susky River Rat @Reel

Thank you for all of the information and time you took to respond to my trolling motor issue.

I took the wiring route first (moved from 6 gauge to 4 gauge) - and it seems to have resolved the issue for now (ie, trolling motor would cut off when trying to move it to any speed higher than 5). There were several "crimp" connectors and several round battery terminal/post connections (that were not connected well to the old wires) that were in the old wiring - which seem to have contributed to the issue I was having.   

The batteries (new as of May 25, DuraCell AGM series 27) are near the front of the boat so the length of wiring required was relatively short.  

I gave it a test on the water and it ran well (ie, it ran at speed one, up to speed 10) - yet it was a rare calm day on the lake so the trolling motor was not put under significant load. The true test to see if this is a long-term fix will be when I am on the water in wind/waves to see if it will run at speeds above speed 5 when under stress.

The boat is old (93') so a re-do of all the wires/connectors/ect....is probably something I should do. I will have to read/learn/ask questions as this is not something I have ever done (but I am up for the challenge). 

Thank you again for your time/effort/information !

 

@WaskaCrank12 glad to hear!

On 9/22/2025 at 6:13 AM, WaskaCrank12 said:

Hello @ElGuapo928 @FloridaFishinFool @Susky River Rat @Reel

Thank you for all of the information and time you took to respond to my trolling motor issue.

I took the wiring route first (moved from 6 gauge to 4 gauge) - and it seems to have resolved the issue for now (ie, trolling motor would cut off when trying to move it to any speed higher than 5). There were several "crimp" connectors and several round battery terminal/post connections (that were not connected well to the old wires) that were in the old wiring - which seem to have contributed to the issue I was having.   

The batteries (new as of May 25, DuraCell AGM series 27) are near the front of the boat so the length of wiring required was relatively short.  

I gave it a test on the water and it ran well (ie, it ran at speed one, up to speed 10) - yet it was a rare calm day on the lake so the trolling motor was not put under significant load. The true test to see if this is a long-term fix will be when I am on the water in wind/waves to see if it will run at speeds above speed 5 when under stress.

The boat is old (93') so a re-do of all the wires/connectors/ect....is probably something I should do. I will have to read/learn/ask questions as this is not something I have ever done (but I am up for the challenge). 

Thank you again for your time/effort/information !

 

Glad to hear you got going! When you get to that project, I’m more than happy to help any way I can.