Same angler's (bass1980) Pixy Silver Mica.  I think this looks equally good despite going into this not liking the Airy Red.  Some time ago I actually bought the spool from an Airy Red and put it into my Silver Mica because I disliked the red/Silver of the Airy Red and wanted an all silver Airy Red Pixy but that reel above is has changed my mind on that color pattern.  

4 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Si tus señuelos estarán en el rango que mencionaste antes y los lances más largos son parte de tu táctica, entonces elige el Tatula 150. Otra razón para esta selección es la cubierta lateral de aluminio del engranaje. En 2021, decidí que cualquier Daiwa nuevo que comprara tendría esta característica. Las razones serían su construcción robusta y, al menos en teoría, una alineación más precisa del engranaje bajo la presión de peces que luchan con fuerza o que luchan a través de una cubierta espesa. Además de esa especulación, todos los Daiwa que tengo y que me acompañan con esta característica se han mantenido sólidos y suaves.

 

No he encontrado evidencia de que la variante CDM Salamandura Tatula tenga una cubierta lateral de aluminio en el lado del engranaje, aunque podría serlo. Si te ves saltando señuelos con frecuencia, la Salamandura podría ser la mejor opción si dependes mucho del frenado SV al hacerlo.

Salamandura If it's aluminum, the side cover on the gear side is made of aluminum; the one on the magnetic side is made of resin (that one doesn't suffer any kind of traction or torsion). Which I understand is the same in the Tatula TW 150

This thread really blew up and makes for an interesting read.  Too bad I'm not 20 years younger (or even 10) as I'd love to try some of the reels mentioned in this thread.  The Salamandura SV TW 70 and Zillion SV TW 1000L were the last two reels I purchased and I didn't need them.

 

I tried the Salamandura on an MH (Fast I think) with a 7/8 oz. lure and 12# co-polymer and the arbor was clearly visible.  Re-spooling with smaller diameter line...most likely braid now that I live in Florida.

2 hours ago, Andrés Milano said:

Salamandura If it's aluminum, the side cover on the gear side is made of aluminum; the one on the magnetic side is made of resin (that one doesn't suffer any kind of traction or torsion). Which I understand is the same in the Tatula TW 150

As mentioned, I'm not sure. Daiwa claims some of their reels have a Hyper Armed Housing but they do not have aluminum side plates, so without visual confirmation I simply don't know. Also, the USDM Tatula 150 weighs 224 grams or 7.9 ounces versus the Salamandura 150 weighing 192 grams or 6.8 ounces.

 

The extra weight of the Tatula 150 is coming from somewhere. If they both use brass gears, then it's reasonable to assume the weight difference is due to one having an aluminum side plate while the other doesn't, but that's no guarantee.

 

That said, my personal preference for this feature shouldn't steer you away from the Salamandura if your heart is set on it because of its features and distinctive styling. Also, drag clickers are cool.

A note on both 150 size reels (I'd lean toward the Tatula 150 LC Concept for your weight range).  

Spool capacity is going to be big, and you stated PE#2, which is great, but the weight (and cost) of filling deep spool will add up.  

I'd recommend deciding how much #2 working line you need, and backing the spool with much thicker braid (use cheaper, lower quality braid for backing). 

Use this capacity calculator for stacking line:  

https://www.pattayafishing.net/advanced-fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/

 

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

Una nota sobre ambos carretes de tamaño 150 (me inclinaría por el Tatula 150 LC Concept para su rango de peso).  

La capacidad del carrete será grande, y usted mencionó PE n.° 2, lo cual es genial, pero el peso (y el costo) de llenar un carrete profundo se sumarán.  

Te recomendaría decidir cuánta línea de trabajo n.° 2 necesitas y respaldar el carrete con una trenza mucho más gruesa (usa una trenza más barata y de menor calidad para respaldar). 

Utilice esta calculadora de capacidad para la línea de apilamiento:  

https://www.pattayafishing.net/advanced-fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/

 

Do you think the Tatula TW 150 will be more effective for the weight range I use? 

On another note, besides thanking you and everyone who helped by teaching me and giving me their advice and opinions, I want to thank you for the line count calculator; it's excellent!

 

THANK YOU ALL! You proved to be an excellent community!

Andres, look at it this way - casting 10 g to 40 g, SV is not needed, and MagZ will be more reliable, especially at your top end.  

 

 

If you want to cast below 7 g, then you need SV.  

   

 

Regards. 

Ron

After reading all you said about, I want to add something: is possible to cover all que kind of fishing style with one reel? Yes. This reel will be enough? No. 

My recommendation is that for the type of fish and style of fishing (lines, lures, rods), the best you can do is to buy 2 reels. Why? Because when you are looking tarariras,   you are gonna use rubber, tiny cranks, frogs, all light lures. To maximice your casting distance, the recomendation is no more than 30 pound braid, 20 is better but if you have bad luck (or good luck should I say) and a golden dorado catch your lure (because sometimes they share the same waters), is better to have 30 pound braid and not 20. 

For this kind of fish, a daiwa tatula 70 will be fine. Also, a slx mgl 70 would be perfect.  Its to much to use, for example, a Tatula HD for that situation.
 

Now, in open water, when your target is the golden dorado, the line recomendation is no less than 40 pound braid. Your gonna need al least a 150  size reel to load 100 meters, mostly because sometimes we launch lures to 40 meters 

 

You can manage a 20 pound dorado with a tatula 150 or a shimano slx xt, you no need a curado or a tatula 300 for that, its all about experience, and using your drag and rod properly. 

 

For me, if I have to buy only one reel, it will be a Tatula CT 150 or the Tranx 200. The SLX XT 150 its not a bad choice either way. 

PE#2 made to JAFTMA is 40-lb breaking strength.  

Possible line stack based on Tatula 150 spool capacity.  

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

PE#2 made to JAFTMA is 40-lb breaking strength.  

Possible line stack based on Tatula 150 spool capacity.  

This chart is excellent, the problem is what the box say. I mean, a .235 line its not .235 in all his length. 

For example, a great line like the sufix 832, the 50 pound is claimed at .340, but is has an average .423 (you can check that on YT). So probably is less line on your spool, depending the brand 

3 hours ago, AbelG said:

Después de leer todo lo que dijiste, quiero añadir algo: ¿es posible abarcar todos los estilos de pesca con un solo carrete? Sí. ¿Será suficiente con este carrete? No. 

Mi recomendación es que, para el tipo de pez y estilo de pesca (líneas, señuelos, cañas), lo mejor es comprar dos carretes. ¿Por qué? Porque para pescar tarariras, usarás señuelos de goma, crankbaits pequeños, ranas y todos ligeros. Para maximizar la distancia de lance, se recomienda un trenzado de no más de 13 kg (30 libras); 9 kg es mejor, pero si tienes mala suerte (o mejor dicho, buena suerte) y un dorado atrapa tu señuelo (porque a veces comparten las mismas aguas), es mejor usar un trenzado de 13 kg (30 libras) y no de 9 kg (20 libras). 

Para este tipo de pez, un Daiwa Tatula 70 será suficiente. También sería perfecto un SLX MGL 70. Es excesivo usar, por ejemplo, un Tatula HD para esa situación.
 

Ahora bien, en aguas abiertas, cuando tu objetivo es el dorado, la línea recomendada es de trenzado de al menos 40 libras. Necesitarás al menos un carrete de 150 para cargar a 100 metros, principalmente porque a veces lanzamos señuelos a 40 metros. 

 

Puedes manejar un dorado de 20 libras con un Tatula 150 o un Shimano SLX XT, no necesitas un Curado o un Tatula 300 para eso, todo es cuestión de experiencia y de usar el freno y la caña correctamente. 

 

Para mí, si tengo que comprar solo un carrete, será un Tatula CT 150 o el Tranx 200. El SLX XT 150 no es una mala elección en ningún caso. 

Hey buddy, I totally agree with your point of view, but right now I can't get two different reels, so I need to buy one that works for everything and then maybe buy another one later. I probably bought the bigger one first so it works for both types of fishing, even though it's oversized for the Tararira. In that case, which one would you go for and why?

I think it's a bit late for those who don't know the dorado; it's like a snakehead, aggressive, territorial, fast, strong, or like a tucunare, except it has teeth. Just like those predators, it is voracious 

Horse hockey.  Start here

I've filled enough spools using Pataya calculator to know that JAFTMA X-braid (YGK, Varivas, Duel) diameter doesn't vary - made in Japan by Izanas - spool will always hold the full calculated amount, and more, because spool capacities are usually under-rated.   

 

I've also filled enough spools using 832 braid to know that the diameter does vary, averages greater than the reported diameter, and actual loaded spool amount always comes up less than the calculated amount. 

Also worth noting that for the same reported diameter, X-braid breaking strength is over twice 832 breaking strength.  Same diameter as 6-lb 832, X-braid breaking strength is 16 lbs.  

If you want to learn something, follow this search.  

 

Adding a ps - the 5000D bench reel below has a 5-mm-deep Avail spool, with #1.2 braid stacked on #3 backing.  Both braids are pentagram, changing color every 10 m.  (the #3 was less-than-half-price close-out line known not to have a durable coating, but makes great backing)

 

I calculated the length of #3 backing (107 m) so the working line would finish filling the spool in the third green 10-m length.   

 

 

3 hours ago, Andrés Milano said:

Hey buddy, I totally agree with your point of view, but right now I can't get two different reels, so I need to buy one that works for everything and then maybe buy another one later. I probably bought the bigger one first so it works for both types of fishing, even though it's oversized for the Tararira. In that case, which one would you go for and why?

I think it's a bit late for those who don't know the dorado; it's like a snakehead, aggressive, territorial, fast, strong, or like a tucunare, except it has teeth. Just like those predators, it is voracious 

For me, the reel for the dorado is Tatula Type HD. But with a Tatula CT 150 7.1 you will be fine, because is compact and easy palm, have enough drag y line capacity. 

10 hours ago, AbelG said:

En mi caso, el carrete para dorado es el Tatula Type HD. Pero con un Tatula CT 150 7.1 estarás bien, ya que es compacto y fácil de manejar, y tiene suficiente capacidad de freno y línea. 

From what I understand, CT is the "common" Tatula, am I correct?

1 hour ago, Andrés Milano said:

From what I understand, CT is the "common" Tatula, am I correct?

It's a narrow frame version of the original Tatula.  They came out around 2016.  The 150 SV is one with a deep SV similar to the Salamandura but without the Boost.  I think it's US market only so grossly overpriced compared to Daiwa China reels on Aliexpress.  You won't believe it but the Daiwa China Fuego SV runs $100 while we pay $130 for a non SV Fuego.  I bought my Daiwa China Tatula 80 for $95 while Daiwa US wanted $199 at the time.  

 

Old wide Tatula/Tatula HD (2013 to 2025)

Narrow frame Tatula Compat Tough (2016 to 2020)

Tatula CT again but updated for 2020 with thin knobs and fancier paint (2020 to 2025)

Tatula SV 150.  Same reel as the Tatula CT but with a deep SV spool and the new style thin knobs.

21 minutes ago, Bigbox99 said:

It's a narrow frame version of the original Tatula.  They came out around 2016.  The 150 SV is one with a deep SV similar to the Salamandura but without the Boost.  I think it's US market only so grossly overpriced compared to Daiwa China reels on Aliexpress.  You won't believe it but the Daiwa China Fuego SV runs $100 while we pay $130 for a non SV Fuego.  I bought my Daiwa China Tatula 80 for $95 while Daiwa US wanted $199 at the time.  

 

Yes, is a compact frame version. By the way, in Arg market the prices are not reasonable. A daiwa tatula sv tv is no less than $350, and I can find one on ebay for $140 from japan. 

1 hour ago, Andrés Milano said:

From what I understand, CT is the "common" Tatula, am I correct?

CT stands for "Compact Tough".

It's a narrow frame Compact Tough version of the original Tatula.  The CT came out in 2016, was updated in 2020 with smaller knobs, nicer paint and a higher MSRP and recently, was given the deep SV spool from the old Coastal SV and Salamandura 150 SV to make the Tatula CT 150 SV.  

 

These are all basically the same reel and share part.  Parts that are unique to the wide spool Tatula like the frame, spool, level wind shaft and thumb bar aren't compatible with the narrow frame Tatula CTs.  Also note that the narrow frame Tatula CTs are still tallish reels because they share the side plate dimensions as the wide spool Tatula that is a native 36mm spool platform.  The Tatula CTs, despite being 34mm spool only have a tall frame that sticks up past the 34mm spool opening to accommodate the tall side plates from the wide spool Tatula.

 

Old wide spool tatula (2013 to 2025)

Tatula CT (2016-2020)

Tatula CT (2020-2025)

Tatula 150 SV

Hace 11 minutos, Bigbox99 dijo:

Es una versión compacta y resistente de la Tatula original, con marco estrecho. La CT se lanzó en 2016, se actualizó en 2020 con perillas más pequeñas, mejor pintura y un precio de venta sugerido más alto. Recientemente, se le incorporó el carrete SV profundo de las antiguas Coastal SV y Salamandura 150 SV para crear la Tatula CT 150 SV.  

 

Todos estos carretes son básicamente el mismo y comparten una misma pieza. Las piezas exclusivas del Tatula de carrete ancho, como el bastidor, el carrete, el eje de nivelación y la barra de pulgar, no son compatibles con los Tatula CT de bastidor estrecho. Cabe destacar que los Tatula CT de bastidor estrecho siguen siendo carretes altos, ya que comparten las dimensiones de la placa lateral con el Tatula de carrete ancho, que es una plataforma de carrete de 36 mm. Los Tatula CT, a pesar de tener un carrete de 34 mm, solo tienen un bastidor alto que sobresale de la abertura del carrete de 34 mm para acomodar las placas laterales altas del Tatula de carrete ancho.

 

Tatula de carrete ancho antiguo (2013 a 2025)

Tatula CT (2016-2020)

Tatula CT (2020-2025)

Tatula 150 SV

So what is the difference between the Tatula CT 150, the Tatula 150 SV, the Salamandura SV TW 150, and the Tatula TW 150 (36mm spool)?😵‍💫😵‍💫

Just now, Andrés Milano said:

So what is the difference between the Tatula CT 150, the Tatula 150 SV, and the Salamandura SV TW 150? 😵‍💫😵‍💫

The Tatula CT 150 SV is the same as the Tatula 150 SV.  I add the CT when talking about it to denote that it is a Tatula CT platform reel.  The purpose of that is to know what it palms like since there are 2 other Tatula platforms that can use the same deep 150 SV spool.  The old Tatula CT platform, the last gen 2018-2023 Tatula 100 and current Tatula 100.  

 

The difference between the Tatula CT 150 SV and Salamandura 150 SV Boost is that the Salamandura palms smaller and has the SV Boost deep spool.  The Salamndura is also probably cheaper because the Tatula 150 SV is a Daiwa US reel and the US market prices are crazy inflated compared to other markets.  You'll pay more for the US market Tatula 150 SV on a 10 year old platform with a non Boost SV spool than you would on Aliexpress for a Salamandura 150 SV Boost using a custom version of the newest Tatula platform with a unique Boost spool.  US prices are maddening.  I don't know how people can just go pay full retail at Tacklewarehouse and look themselves in the mirror in the morning.   

 

 

 

Last gen Tatula platform Salamandura 150 SV

 

Current Tatula 100 Salamandura 150 SV Boost 

 

7 hours ago, Andrés Milano said:

You were very clear, my friend, I understand now! It's a real shame that in the USA they pay more for a platform with fewer benefits!

Maybe so, but we have absolutely no problem getting any reel that’s made anywhere in the world. We are not limited to a Chinese made/Chinese marketplace reel. We have parts availability along with a plethora of technicians who can fix and/or modify reels. We’re not without our difficulties, but we are the greatest Nation in the world.. 😉

This was a better thread talking about reel capabilities.  It's dumb to compare local brick-shop prices to wholesale warehouse-export prices and think the difference is anything other than overhead and inventory costs.  

When you buy from Japan mail order, boxed reel is drop-shipped from distributor, the Japan vendor packages and ships the reel to your house.    He's working from a storage building or home-office. 

The local brick shop that has reels in display cases for you to see, handle, and try, has spent a lot of money on the shop, on the clerk or technician who shows you the reel and answers your questions, and on the inventory that's stacked in back so you can compare, decide, and take it home.  

 

Only problem with The American Way is lb-test - a nebulous number that has no factual basis, and invites poor quality control.   Especially if you want to fish braid, get over lb-test, and think about braid by diameter.  This is what makes Japan PE# scale so easy - it's the traditional scale for measuring silk thread diameter.  

Compare to fly leader and tippet, sold using "X" scale.  If your 5X tippet doesn't fit through the eye of a size 22 hook, it doesn't do you any good..  

 

@bulldog1935  Absolutely & what is also true is the quality of carbon lines, nylon lines and FC coated lines such as PLine CXX, CX or Yozuri Hybrid line. There are many other examples of non-braided lines manufactured in Japan which are also of the highest quality. (Daiwa, Sunline, etc) Japan places a premium on quality and honor in manufacturing..(as you are very well aware) 

On 12/7/2025 at 11:35 AM, bulldog1935 said:

I'm going to agree here with @Micro Module Police - Daiwa 34-mm floating spool is the most versatile platform out there - you can't go wrong with Zillion HD if that works into your budget.  

What’s the difference between the zillion hd and the 21 regular sv?

 

@Brycecover '22 Zillion HD has brass hyperdrive gears and MagZ Boost spool.  

'21 Zillion SV TW has alloy gears and SV Boost spool.  

USM Zillion G has brass gears and SV Boost spool - I'm not sure if they're hyperdrive, but I have a '22 HD gearset arriving soon to compare.  I'll come back to this post and edit-in photo.  

My 5-yr salt Z-SV-TW is getting a brass gearset, and I'll have both G and HD new gearsets.  Down the line, my Silver Wolf will get the 2nd gearset.  G gearset, btw, has fine-toothed stainless pinion.