With the preference for longer rods becoming more prevalent, balance becomes a concern for me when building. 

I just finished a jigging rod for a customer and wanted to balance it as best as I could. I ended up moving the reel seat up the blank a couple of inches and although that reduced that tip heavy concern, it didn't eliminate it. Other than adding weight to the butt, are there any other ways to address this?

Use the lightest guides and tip top as possible, at least in the running guides.  And use the lightest blank possible.  You can move the seat up, but as you found there are limits.  And the rear butt can only be so long before it starts snagging in clothes or other.  

Tungsten bullet or barrow weight into the into hollow butt works.

Tom

I don’t know how you do it but my rod guy always wants the exact weight of the reel before he starts the build.

If the balance point is the center of the reel seat the reel weight isn’t a factor.

Giving  custom rod builder the reel model, lures you use and any other info helps to locate the 1st guide etc. low profile vs round reel for example is always a good idea.

Tom

Use full rear grips not split.  If cork, a couple burl rings at the butt.

I'm willing to bet you are not using the smallest and lightest and least number of guides that will work for your application, extending rear grip lengths can cause a rod to get in the way while wearing a life jacket, rain gear, etc. We shouldn't have to work around a rod, that does more harm then was accomplished by improving balance benefits. Myself, I was raised in long rod country and went through the balance thing with many others in the '80s, didn't last long, we all learned the long grip lessons. It's not just the rod length, the blanks, components, reels, etc. are all lighter, put one of the old 8 - 9 oz. reels on your rod and it changes the picture. Nothing is linear here, a 3 mm F frame guide is not 1/2 the weight of the 6 used by most, it's very close to 1/6 the weight. This has been known in Europe and Japan for decades, G Loomis has used 4 mm guides for decades on steelhead rods, Shimano brought those guides to the US on their Aero rods decades ago when they brought the long spool reels we used today here, Berkely did the same, reducing guide size on their Series One rods in the late '80s, early '90s, along with fancy reel seats like some today and trigger seats that exposed the entire blank from the trigger to the threads, Castaway used a similar reel seat, like many things in the US, even if it's better it doesn't mean we will use it.

Imo “balance” is using appropriate components and design in which all compliment one another resulting is a high performance rod that is pleasurable to fish in various circumstances. Including but not limited to : grip length, diameter and material, seat shape, smallest, lightest guides that will hold up and pass connections, guide train layout (spacing, size progression) etc on an appropriate high quality blank. Unless the client demands it, I will never add unnecessary weight to a rod build. There’s no “right “ way nor spot on a rod where it needs to teeter-totter. You can extend this line of thought to matching rod, reel, line, lures to create a “balanced” system/combo. 

Bingo!