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Another crank rod question

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I will be purchasing a new rod for crankbaits and lipless cranks. There were few posts on rod selections, but it is out of my budget (around $100) at the moment. I am looking for a rod that can handle shallow and deep crank baits, so I will probably need something at least 7'3 for casting distance.

I have come up with few possible rods:

1. Abu Garcia Vendetta, 7'3 MH/Moderate, VTC73-6.

2. Quantum Kevin VanDam Crank rod, but BPS only has the 7'

3. Shimano Compre crankbait rod, 7'/XF/MH, CPC-C70MHB. XF is not really made for cranking isn't it?

Which one would you guys go for? I will be using it from the bank, and will be using cranks that goes down <12 inches. Any suggestion would be great as well.

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If you are using cranks that dive less than a foot, as you mentioned, I would go with the CPC-C70MB.  If you are going to be using deep cranks too (more than 10' or so...) the MH      may be a better choice.  I have the medium powered one and it is a good shallow-medium depth cranking rod. 

As far as lipless cranks go, they are a different animal, IMO.  I like a rod that transitions to backbone more quickly, like a F or XF action, so I can rip the bait free of hangups.

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Here's my list, pay more attention to power/action than actual models.

St. Croix:

AVC70MM for most smaller, shallow divers

AVC70MHM for larger baits, and lipless in rocky cover

LTB70MF for lipless in grass

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Francho, Is 7' too short for deep crankbaits? I am keep hearing that I would need something at least 7'3 to make long cast, so it will keep the crank in the strike zone?

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I fish a Lamiglas SR705R, but I think Burleytog

makes a good point:

Re: CRANK BAIT ROD'S

Reply #6 - Apr 07th 2010 at 00:45:03

No, it is a simple matter of physics, not opinion.

A deep diving crankbait like a DD22 does not instantly dive to it's target depth.  It's dive path is angled.  It takes a while to get that bait down to it's maximum depth.  Once it gets there, it reaches a point where it will start it's way back up.

  With a 7'6+ rod, you will be able to cast farther.  A longer cast gives a deep crank more time in the strike zone.

I spend a lot of time throwing DD22's, 3/4 oz. Hot Lips and 3/4 oz. Fat Free Shads.  Throwing into 20' of water and dragging the bait over points, ledges and humps.  What is the point of making a cast, cranking the bait down and have it barely make bottom before it starts back up?

I once spent a night out with a guy who spends about 80% of his time (June-Sept) throwing a deep crank.  He was using a 7'6 rod, I was using a 7' rod.  Both of us were using 10 lb. PLine and throwing a DD22.  He was able to cast 10-15 yards farther than I and was able to keep that bait where it needed to be for longer.  Consequently, he caught fish and I didn't.

Can you fish a >12-15' crankbait on a 7' rod?  Of course.  But you aren't maximizing your presentation by doing so.  A 7' rod is fine for baits that run <10' as it doesn't take long for that bait to reach it's maximum depth.

With deep cranks, longer casts are always better.

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what do you guys think of Daiwa Iaconelli M1781MRB? It is on sale at *** for 99 dollars. I read somewhere Daiwa ended the contract with him, because he doesn't use his own product?

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what do you guys think of Daiwa Iaconelli M1781MRB? It is on sale at *** for 99 dollars. I read somewhere Daiwa ended the contract with him, because he doesn't use his own product?

I'd be interested in knowing where you heard that little factoid....seriously, would you fish his signature rods if had the choice of also fishing a Steez?

As for the original posts.

That Iaconelli rod seems like it would be a good $100 choice, I've never fished it but them seem to be good rods. As for my crank baits I use

Shallow-mid cranks/jerkbaits/topwater

6'10''MH-F Carrot Stix Gold (labeled MH-F but is better suited for the purposes I use it for, just ask anyone that's fished it, closer to a M-F)

Deep Divers (12-20ft)

7'MH-F Lucky Craft Cranking rod (Again, labeled MH-F but it's a fiberglass rod so it has a softer tip)

Lipless Cranks

Whatever MH-F that isn't in use does fine for me, don't throw them much.

You don't really need a longer rod, it helps, but it's not necessary. I would try to focus on what you'd do the most of and go from there as to what to get.

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what do you guys think of Daiwa Iaconelli M1781MRB? It is on sale at *** for 99 dollars. I read somewhere Daiwa ended the contract with him, because he doesn't use his own product?

I'd be interested in knowing where you heard that little factoid....seriously, would you fish his signature rods if had the choice of also fishing a Steez?

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1262969990/5#5

Willzx talked about it Ika not using his own product, and few folks said that's why he is going to abu garcia. Maybe it is just a rumor, I dont know...but what's what I have read. Do I believe it? maybe.

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I touched on this in another thread. Lamiglas makes some underrated rods. Their style of blanks tend to be more naturally moderate than the action states. If they say the action is fast, expect a moderate/fast blank. It's one of the reasons I like Lami's for all types of cranking. Even if the rod isn't a cranking rod it'll probably still do the job well.

Check out the Lamiglas Excel XL705 Glass or the XL703C for lighter cranks.

Good luck on your choice all the rods these guys recommend are pretty d**n good.

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I touched on this in another thread. Lamiglas makes some underrated rods. Their style of blanks tend to be more naturally moderate than the action states. If they say the action is fast, expect a moderate/fast blank. It's one of the reasons I like Lami's for all types of cranking. Even if the rod isn't a cranking rod it'll probably still do the job well.

Check out the Lamiglas Excel XL705 Glass or the XL703C for lighter cranks.

Good luck on your choice all the rods these guys recommend are pretty d**n good.

The rod looks pretty good. Hard choice between Vendetta and lamiglas. What do you guys think? Need a all purpose crank rod.

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Diablo,

Lamiglas Excel XL705Glass, that's a glass rod? Hows that compare to Graphite?

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Glass rods have a soft feel and if you held a glass rod with the same exact tip and butt size as a graphite and same weight class the glass rod will be whippier.

I believe the softer pulsating action of glass allows the crankbait to work itself. The tip on the glass rod will bounce around letting you know the bait is doing it's job. If you pick up one blade of grass the tip will stop bouncing telling you the lure is not working at it's maximum output.

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I have said it before, I absolutely love the BPS Crankin Stick. It is only $69.99 and is a great rod. You should pick one up before you go buying other rods, I think you will be very surprised.

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