Bassin_Fin@tic

Or just simply use them around some structure at different depths and see which ones will hit it.Keeping in mind the dia.of line your using though.Also keep an eye out if you see any of them sold in the shops,read the package.

Just to add a point to my other post. I cant stand the guys that somehow think they are sooo much better of a basser just because they have a box full of ultra expensive baits and use 500+ dollar rod/reel combos.I dont think they have an edge up on anyone else because of nicer equipment.It all about how you use it. I have a friend who makes much much more than me and buys all the topp of the line stuff but has no clue whatsoever how to use any of it.He just like to have nice stuff I guess.It seems that he is doing all the bragging when it comes to catching,but i am the one putting us on the fish and telling him which bait he should be using.

I dont see any reason that the "cheaper baits made by reputable companies cant catch fish just as well as a 25 dollar plus megabass.Not the dollar bin knock off specials though.its well documented that those really suck.Then again I guess the point of this thread is that once you start with the expensive ones thats all you want to buy. I guess it is nice to own nice stuff,but if you cant afford it or dont have sponsors buying it all then you you dont need it, and can still catch plenty of fish. When I was younger I used to swear by my uglystick LMAO.Now I wont touch a rod unles its a st croix,loomis,or kistler.

On occasion, I am proud of my bass thumb.The bigger they are the more you get it too.Its a great reminder for a few days following.

this is true too.I think rod action has a little to do with it too.A softer rod will walk easier up high.I use a pretty stiff rod myself. Biggest disadvantage? When you get struck up high you will have to reel up slack to set the hook many times especially if the fish streaks towards you.

You dont have to truly twitch downward,just down at an angle 7-9 o'clock or 8-10 or vice versa if your left handed.I learned at an early age fishing from shore and had done most of my fishing in my life from shore.I too fish from a johnboat, not as deep as a v haul and walk no probs.Tip: a shorter rod 6'-6'6" can help.

Just to add one of my personal experiences... Bought my first st croix last fall,an avid 7ft heavy.My first "High end"rod.Got snagged in a lilly pad stem.Handed my pole to my buddy while I went to pull the anchor out of the mud and move in to retrieve.While doing this behind my back he started wrenching straight up with the rod..(hes not the brightest bulb,but I love him) All I heard was POP!!! I don't understand!!?? I paid 179 bux for something like that to break?? Thats the price for the lightweight and super sensitivity in some of these rods.It aint no ugly stick LOL.Luckily I was able to send it back under warantee and havd it replaced after they determined that I didnt close it in my trunk or somethin dumb like that. I now have a new respect for my high dollar rods.

Have used a bobber stop below it too to make a mini crig of sorts instead of split shot.

Just under the surface is definately the way to go in very shallow water 3 ft or less especially around very active fish,over weed beds,and anytime you see the bass pushing bait towards the surface.(ie:FALL) But ya,dont know about that article because they make 3/4oz + baits for a reason.Creek channels,deep offshore humps or structure are just some of the examples of when you can use it below the surface. The size of the blade(s) determines what speed and fall rate can be achieved.Sometimes faster is better.

2) setting the hook with a rubber o-ring would bring back the end of the line with the lure likely missing

Ya, love the cavitron now too, been slayin em bad the last 2 weeks on it.This gem has rekindled my love for buzzers.

Cool.Been dying to try the whipstick fluke they have and have not found it anywhere to order.Thought maybe thet quit making it.Suppose it never occured to me to try the lunker city homepage! DUM DEE DUM

L_O_L. ;D is cool music though. I thought a couple of times he had 10er on or something.Must be using light line.

A fish that small ate one of those giant sausages?? Cool! Thought those things were for sharks or somethin.

"What are they for?" Supposed to increase hookup with short strikers.Dont think it has much to do with how well it holds. Dont know if they are better or not.Havent noticed any difference in hookup ratio except when a bass slaps a crank I often find the sureset stuck on the outside of its head.Really though these things grab a lot of weeds,snag easier,and grab a lot of bottom gunk in general silt,muck,shells and snails.One other bad thing I noticed after using sureset extensively is in regards to catch and release.Have had a tone of fish get these things caught in and around their gill layers.They will then bleed to death inevitably if the gill tissue is punctured. Dont think a stiffer rod would be the way to go for any cranking either,unless of course your fishing heavy timber. Were you asking about putting single wide gaps on a bait?? Dunno never tried,maybe someone else?Seems to me that hardbaits come with trebles for a reason.The fish hit hard and from various angles.

LOL please see the thread entitled buying bait compulsive disorder or "You know your a bait junky when.." Hi luckyinkentucky Welcome to bait junkies anonymous.Im Justin and I too have a problem with the monkey.

Indeed great pond bait,especially if the bait/shad are mainly 2 inches or less. I prefer Stanleys much more though, especially the titanium single colorado,if clear water double willow.

fall apart??!! those are one of my #1 cranks. HMMM never had it happen before even after owning 30 of em. LOL

x2 its either a curious or a brim 99% of the time. But the thing is I have caught a lunker or two after feeling that and decided to not set the hook.The fish normally gets off then. Oh have you ever felt the tap,tap,tap,try to set the hook, then nothing, only to come and find out the fish is streaking a hundred MPH right at the boat?? Thats always fun.I think those guys know the deal and have taken a tour of the boat before.

I think katsu is actually sharper,but therein lies the problem.They are incredibly chemically sharpened down to a fine hairpoint(superline excluded).The durability factor is nil on these things. The very tips bend all the time. You could try to reshape the point,but its pointless,never the same.Owner cutting points will never ever dull until you have the unfortunate luck of snagging one in a rock or some other mishap. If I can go through 3 packs of katsu for 1 pack of owner Id say owner are the best deal around,and Imo they penetrate with less effort.

ya but he caught ,or got bit by more dinks in that 8 min video than I have ever gotten a jig in my life.ROFL

spinnerbaits.first bass lures I ever used

Hey all. I havent really used this lure yet.I have two of them.Was just wondering what the best way to work it is? Like a jerkbait,or crank it. If you use it like a jerkbait I cant see using a standard pause as the lure will continue to sink. Any answers? Thanks

What do you mean??!! Thats a hell of a deal,and only half the price of bastrix these days.LMAO ;D

Like he said ^.steady retrieve could also be referred to as "slow rolling"and can be done at different depths after you figure out how fast the bait sinks.If deep,you will have to use at least a 3/8 or 1/2 oz chatter style bait to keep it down.Slow rolling near the bottom is a great tactic but usually needs a heavier bait since these achieve so much lift. Can be a good dirty water bait,since the vibration is very heavy with these.