The Rooster

Did you get a spinning combo or a casting combo?? The spinning rod is the one I don't care for. The casting rods I think would probably be fine.

What's up with the way some rods are rated in terms of action and power?? All the nice, higher dollar rods have an actual "action" and "power" rating separately but the cheaper rods just say something like "medium action" and no mention of power at all, even though we know that really means power and we're just left to wonder about the tip action (unless you have enough experience holding one that you can tell about the tip action by feeling). Shimano is about the only company I've seen that also sells a cheaper rod and still rates them by action and power separately. Ya know, the more I read about Shimano the more I'm liking them. For a while I thought they were overrated but now I'm seeing what some of the fuss is about.

Well, I'm having another problem too. Might be trivial to some but I really want the spinning rods and casting rods I get to be matching. Not just for looks and all, but mostly cause I figure if they make a good casting rod then they would make a good spinning rod too, and the feeling would be all the same from one rod to another, or so I'm assuming. And I'd like to get away from having a dozen different brand rods out there with me, all feeling different each time I switch from one to another. Anyway, the BPS Extreme (or any other BPS spinning rod too) is made so that the foregrip tightens down on the reel foot to hold it on, but it seems to be a poor design. Look at the catalog where they show the combos for sale and see that none of the reels are fully locked onto the rod. It leaves a few of the threads showing after they are put on. Also it appears to put the reel foot in a bind sort of, like there's not enough room for it to fit under the foregrip as it tightens. And some time ago, I went to a BPS and took my own reel to find a rod for it and had this same experience while in the store, none of the foregrips could tighten down to hold it on without binding the reel foot and bending it to hold it on. And even when tightened it didn't feel fully locked, and it still left a good 3/8 inch gap between the foregrip and the rest of the handle. Felt like it could come loose later on, and the foregrip is where I hold the rod at so it might twist loose just through using it. I'd drop a reel off into the water with it like that! I don't like that at all. Pretty much I don't like BPS spinning rods at all just cause of that. The Shimano rod I'm looking at has an uplocking reel seat with padded hoods to secure the reel, and it doesn't bind at all. That's the only way I will even purchase a spinning rod now is if they are made that way. So if I went with the Extreme for a casting rod, I've already ruled out the spinning versions of it. And if the Clarus is good enough to use as a spinner, then it's good enough for a caster too. I've just read where the Extreme is supposed to be a very superior rod and thought since I'm buying the reel then the combo might be the way to go, but now I think not.

Nah, won't be in Atlanta anytime soon.....or ever probably. ;D Never been to Georgia, or even south of Myrtle Beach, South Carolina for that matter. Any good fishing down there??

Currently I fish a medium graphite rod for cranks. It's probably got a fast tip, but it's like so many rods on the market today, they rated it as medium "action" when what that really should mean is POWER. They didn't say anything about tip action but it's probably fast. Anyway, it was affordable and I use it for cranking Bandit 200's and 100's and at first I was missing a lot of fish. I'd feel them strike, sometimes even see it, and when I'd swing I'd pull the bait right out of their mouths. Now I've learned to back off just a bit and seemingly I've solved the problem. I have caught quite a few on cranks this summer using that rod. So I guess I don't really have to have a crank rod, but I just wondered if I might see any difference if I did. I'm always looking for more information to help me fish better.

Yeah I wouldn't really quit using one compared to the other, I have a lot of both actually. I just didn't understand this part ----> if both of them put off vibrations and both of them can be fitted with rattles, and both of them can even have flash, and both of them resemble a shad, then when do you use one over the other?? I can see that the trebles of a crank can tangle in weeds so the spinnerbait would be better there. Maybe the vibrations are different from one to the other, and also the retrieves can be varied differently too, such as the stop and go retrieve. With a spinnerbait it's going to sink when you stop it, but a crank will either float up or suspend, so the same technique with both lures will give different results. I think I might have just answered my own question there.

Couldn't I just get a medium or medium light rod with a medium fast tip though?? I'm sure Shimano or somebody makes something like that. Or does a crankbait rod have an even slower action than that?? It's not about money or anything else, I just want to learn is all. EDIT--I just went to Shimano's website and checked out their Compre cranking rod. It says it's power is medium with a medium fast tip. They also make just a regular graphite rod with those same specs, at least on paper. What's the difference between them other than the material they would be made of?? I just don't understand is all.

Do you fish with one brand or series of spinning rod and another one for casting or do you get the same in both?? I'm hunting for new rods and my thinking is telling me to get them both the same, even the same lengths and all, like all 6'6" or 7'0". I might be being influenced by my brother in law though. He has 7 rods, all of them 7'0" long, and all of them Shimano Compres. :-/ What to do, what to do.....

I already know I want the BPS Extreme casting REEL, I have one now and love it. I can either get that as a combo though with the rod made for it or I can pair it up with something else, likely the Shimano Clarus. The Extreme combo would go for $130 if it's not on sale even more (haven't checked in a while). Buying the reel and getting the Shimano rod would run me about the same if I can catch the reel on sale again like it was earlier this year. That's how I'd do it if I got the Clarus for it. So it's just a matter of what rod would you get between those two??

As I understand it, and I could be wrong, a medium power crankbait rod is different from a medium power graphite rod in that it will flex well into the mid section under a load, even lower on the shaft as well but the medium graphite rod doesn't. What would be the difference in something like that compared to just a regular medium light rod that does that as well?? What am I not comprehending on that?? Seems that the amount of flex is all that makes it any different.

WOW, thanks a lot for that little tidbit of knowledge. I am actually looking at a spinning rod they make, but I noticed it's the same with the casting rods, 2 piece in the medium action fast tip. I also saw that they DO offer a medium action, medium fast tip in a one piece, which is what you said that would be before it was cut down to a 2 piece and created a fast tip instead. I could go with that, just didn't know what the medium fast tip would be like, or if I would even need to be concerned with it. Primarily I would be fishing the shakey head rig, and occassionally some inline spinners (Roostertails or Blue Fox), some weightless plastics, maybe even a drop shot?? Some of that stuff doesn't need the sensitivity, but the shakey heads and drop shot probably do. I also could just solve this problem by moving up to the Compre cause they do offer what I wanted in a 1 piece rod there. Just don't like the foregrip on their spinners with that cutout. Or even just get the 7 foot version of the Clarus I like, but on that the handle just feels way too long to be comfortable. I guess I'm being a bit picky, I just want to enjoy using it as well as gain a considerable improvement in sensitivity. Pricewise, those St. Croix Avid rods are a bit over what I wanted to spend. I looked at those too in the BPS catalog. The Premier would be more affordable, even the Triumph that Dick's sells. What do you think of those?? I have no experience at all with higher dollar rods, anything much passed $40 that is. I'd like to keep any rod I get at the $100 mark or less.

I wish they could see this. Over the experience of one customer turning out badly they now have lost several potential customers in the future, not to mention this story will circulate around for hard to tell how long and may even resurface down the road even a year from now and cost them more sales again. Something like that would be incentive enough on it's own to straighten up their act. At least to improve on their communication. Some of that may have been beyond the guy's control but coupled with all the other stuff that could have been done better, it makes it look like it's all his fault. The bottom line is, people just don't want the hassle and will shop elsewhere.

I also had an Ambassadeur 5600C4 and a Hank Parker signature series 5600HPSS (Bass Pro Shops exclusive) and I liked them alot. Then I bought a Bass Pro Shops Extreme. It's just one step down from the Rick Clunn. I fell in love with this reel and I now use it exclusively as my baitcaster. I plan to buy more of these, and since getting it I have sold my Ambassadeur reels. Funny thing is, about the time I was buying that BPS Extreme is when the gears in the Garcias were apparently running their course. Both reels developed grinds in them that no matter how much I cleaned, relubed, oiled, it just would not help it. So I converted permanently to the Extremes and it's got to be the best baitcaster in it's price range I've ever seen. If you like the Rick Clunn then I say get that one. It's a step up from the one I have so it must be a great reel, cause mine sure is.

Mostly what I meant was bottom bouncing lures, but when I say jig, generally what I'm referring to is the skirted jigs with the fiber weed guard. SO.......are jigs a year round bait?? Is it too late for me to start learning them this season?? Generally in mid October I'm done fishing for the year but this year I thought I'd keep at it right on through and see what happens. I would rather be out there cold and catching nothing than sitting home warm and wishing I was fishing.

I mostly want to use it for shakey head rigs but pretty much any other type of presentation that you'd need a spinning rod to do would be nice too, such as weightless plastics with only a 3/0 hook and the worm.

I've read that a 2 piece rod is not as sensitive as a 1 piece rod. I want a 1 piece rod and wanted it to be a Shimano Clarus in a 6'6" medium power with a fast tip and they only make it in a 2 piece according to their website. Would you still go with that rod even though it's a 2 piece?? I have a couple of 2 piece rods here at home that I normally just jam together so tightly that they're like a 1 piece. I go for years at a time and don't take them apart or even check them when I go fishing the next time. On the rare occasion when I've needed to take one apart I had to have my wife grab one end and I held the other and we both pulled HARD to get them apart. That's how well they hold. So if I get a 2 piece rod it likely won't be an issue of coming apart. Just don't want to lose that sensitivity cause that's the whole reason I want it to begin with.

Does anyone ever fish a jig WITHOUT a trailer at all?? Just straight out of the package?? I do have some good trailers to put on, some that will put a lot of action out. The Net Bait baby paca craw. That thing thumps pretty good when you reel it in, that was my experience when I was T-rigging them the other day.

I don't feel like I understand them though. When I fish a T-rig, sometimes it's a worm and then I could see there's a difference in that and a jig, but sometimes I fish a T-rig with a craw bait instead and then it seems as if it would be the same as a jig with a craw bait so if the T-rig didn't work then why would a jig in that situation?? By the way, what is a T-rigged worm supposed to be mimmicking?? I've never seen nightcrawlers swimming around on the bottom of a lake.

Are there unique situations where you use a crankbait over a spinnerbait, or a spinnerbait instead of a crankbait?? Or can I mostly use a crankbait anywhere I'd use a spinnerbait and visa versa??

In my head I can't see much difference between how a T-rig works vs. a jig. I've never really got into jigs much but I use T-rigs nearly everytime I go fishing. Do I even need jigs at all??

I grew up riding and fishing in a 17 foot aluminum Grumman canoe. Personally I don't care all that much for canoe fishing cause it is hard on my back, no place to lean back to rest a moment and trying to balance while moving around isn't pleasant either. That's what strains my back the most. But if you do go with a canoe, try to get one that has as deep a keel as possible. You'd be absolutely amazed at what a difference in stability there is between an aluminum canoe with a straight piece of metal for a keel that's about 2 inches wide vs. a plastic canoe that just has a swelled ridge running from tip to tip along the bottom. They're just rounded off keels, allow for severe rolling from side to side with very little movement to cause it, and are not at all stable like the aluminum one I grew up with. But even so, the aluminum canoe will be no where near as stable as the flat bottom of a jon boat. Yeah, a short narrow jon boat will tip some but it won't flip like a canoe will if you lean over to wash your hands off in the water. And one time of flipping a canoe in water that's over your head will ruin you for wanting to fish out of it after you lose an expensive combo or two and all your tackle, and the trolling battery will be ruined as well, if not lost completely. Also, the canoe we had was absolutely impossible to stand up in, but a jon boat might allow you to do that depending on how large of one you get. On a side note, I want to add that I never have flipped a canoe, but came pretty close a time or two. Dad bought it new before I was born (pre 1974) and he had flipped it a few times in learning to use it but by time I was able to go along he knew how to handle it and taught me. Now my brother has it and still uses it to this day. It's held up great to be over 35 years old. Also, I don't know how deep a jon boat will draft water, but the canoe we fished out of was capable of crossing over water that was only 6 inches deep. Sometimes we would drag bottom in sandy bottomed creeks but we kept going right on with minimal effort and we never used a motor at all, just paddles only. I do have to say that we were able to get into some good places thanks to that canoe and caught some fish and had memorable times that we would otherwise have not had. Come to think of it, this post was about 1/2 advise on what to do and 1/2 reliving old memories. Even though I had some good times in that canoe, I would still opt for the jon boat if I was to get a smaller boat again.

I found the secondary HIN on my boat when I refinished it this passed spring. It was under the starboard side rubber bumper at the very back of the boat, riveted in and then the rubber bumper was riveted in also and then the ends covered with aluminum plates also riveted in. It would take a lot of work to get into it if needed, and then you'd have to know it was there to start with. My very first boat, I had this problem with the title, HIN, and all. The ownerss had the paperwork from being the boat's first owner and all, but it was a 68 model deep V and this was in 96, nearly 30 years old at the time. Back when that boat was new in 68 they didn't issue titles for boats in KY, only just a bill of sale. The owner's husband, who really owned the boat, had died previously, and she didn't want to apply for the title in her name so that she could then transfer it to me. The DMV did their thing with what papers she did have and then we all left. They told me they didn't know if it would go through or not. I had to get a pencil tracing of the hull number and send it in with the papers she had. But the hull number didn't match what was on the bill of sale!!! So they told me to do another pencil tracing of what was there......and do you know that they sent me a title in my name with that hull number I traced on it!!!! No further proof was required at all and it only took about a month total to get it. They asked about that other hull number that was on that bill of sale, but when I told them it was nowhere to be found on that boat, they just changed it to the one that I sent them!!!! Now that I look back on it, I could have been stealing that boat and would have got clean away with it. But I wasn't, it was legit, I paid a grand for it.

I once had a 14' deep V hull boat, had a 15 HP Merc on it and a 36 lb. thrust Minnkota Autopilot trolling motor on the front. Mine looked deeper than that one does from the pics, it really was quite deep. I also built a front deck in mine and even though it did tip just a bit (not bad at all) I could stand on it and fish all day long just fine. I even had 4 people in that boat on more than one occasion. Anyway, I put carpet in mine up to the groove that runs along the side of the hull from front to rear, and from there up on the inside I painted it. To cover where the paint meets the carpet on the inside of that groove, I used liquid nails adhesive and glued a piece of PVC pipe on the inside of that groove on both sides of the hull inside. I made sure to turn the side of the pipe that had the lettering on it towards the wall so all you see was the white pipe only. In that pipe you can run your wiring that goes from front to rear for trolling motor, front lights, any 12 volt receptacle you put in front, power wires for depth finder, just any wiring at all. It was just like electrical conduit basically but it was white and with my grey paint and grey carpet it made it look like it was supposed to be that way from the factory, gave it a neat and clean look and was a very good way to keep wires consealed and protected from accidental damage and UV from sunlight. It also keeps them above the water if it ever leaks into the boat any, or if you forget to cover it and it rains and fills up with water. Copper wires submerged in water will corrode. Also if you build a front deck, you can leave the bottom of it exposed from underneath and use it for storage of things like boat cushions. I know you should have your life jackets on.......for safety and all.......but most of the time I had mine under there as well. I'd use 3/4 thick plywood to build it with and coat the surface with some kind of sealer, I used rubberized coating on the bottom of mine and the carpet glue along with the carpet was enough to protect the top of it. I know it's heavy using 3/4 but it's sturdy and won't bend a lot on you.

Clear/blue fluorescent Stren line. Never used green before.

I've got a President and a Trion, both spinning reels. They are great. My President has a very slight grind to it though, it was that way out of the box and I just never took it back, but otherwise it's a seriously strong reel and does everything I want it to do so the grind isn't that big of an issue. But next time I get one (and I will be getting another one) I'll make sure I test it before buying it. The Trion is smooth as silk, and actually for $20 less, it's probably the better deal at $40 instead of $60. The ONLY differences between them are that the Trion doesn't have a bearing on the spool shaft below the spool, and the two in the handle itself (7 total compared to the President's 10), and also the Trion is an all graphite frame and sideplate where the President does have an aluminum sideplate with a graphite frame. That's it. Next time I may just get another Trion and save $20. Oh, sorry, I just noticed where you were asking about baitcasters. But if they can make a spinning reel that is this good then their casters have to be great as well.