Paul Roberts

Keeper! Congrats on a very special day. Many more to come.

Nice. Hank Parker is the real deal. I esp liked his comments on tournament fishing.

Me too! Should've been out already. Rough winter: food poisoning, flu, and on to pneumonia. I finally gave in, listened to my wife and doc, and stayed in bed. I'm actually happy to have the editor's red eyes and sore butt back.

Always love innovative ideas. Thanks for this, @govallis. My guess is it would be quick to tie, once one got the hang of it. My FG's are pretty quick now.

That is fishing. What's cool is, you'll be just as ready for the next trip.

Well, I've "fished" out of a lot of boats. I think the largest was a 65ft trawler in the Great Lakes. Right now, I'm steeped in small waters. For most of them I've grown pretty attached to my snug little float tube. And boat control doesn't much more precise there. However, I finally picked up a yak, so that I can more efficiently handle, and cover, larger waters. Not much larger waters, though. But speed and sea-worthiness (wind/chop) helps a lot when tackling larger waters. I've stayed with a small yak -a 10fter- for ease of transport, as I have to hike in to some of my waters. I must say, though, I really miss standing up when fishing. My 10fter I can stand up and paddle around in, but, I don't trust myself fishing, when I'm really focused on my lure and the goings on "out and down there". I'd really need a larger yak for that. I really like the looks of that Meyer's Sports Pal @Brad Reid posted. Looks slow, but, certainly faster than a float tube. The real deals for standing and fishing, though, are a dock, and a bass boat (a floating dock that'll do mph). Like @jaimeastin said, "I'll fish anywhere and almost out of anything". And I can tell you I've learned the "almost" hard way -more than once, unfortunately. Except maybe for that lawn chair mod that @J Francho posted once upon a time. That image is forever burned into my brain. I think I knew that guy. I think we've all known that guy. Let's hope none of us, are that guy. Highly doubt he's still around to tell that tale though.

This is such a fun thread. Love the photos and comments. You know, the "Eskimos" are known to deal with the constant darkness and bitter cold by playing games and story-telling. Otherwise, I suppose, there'd likely be one or two rather healthy ones leaving the igloo come spring! If things start to ugly here, someone tell a good story, quick! Winter is just giving way here. Cold air keeps pushing in but ice-break is happening. I'm usually fishing by now. But, we're in the "lions and lambs" season here. The sun is high and... I know whose going to win out. The red-winged blackbird males are already streaming in. Ice-out is... imminent. And then... it's a mad dash to get the fishing in. I've got fishing plans, if I can only wrap up this documentary. Nose to grindstone here. I'm hoping to chase "carnage zones" this spring. To really show it, I need the perfect set-up. A cold spring actually helps. The other parts are the the right mix of predators, prey, and water body layout. My past "perfect" water body was nearly wiped out during the massive "1000yr" flooding of 2013. It's time I re-visited it this spring to assess its potential resurrection. ???

Thanks, Dwight. Really do appreciate a good slasher.

I think action is the most important thing, by far. I haven't fished them all by any means, but I've fished a bunch and have made my own from floaters. It seems to there are two basic action types (or were, dunno where things stand now): -A darter, or "slash", type for warmer water and more aggressive fish. These tend to have smaller lips. -And, "flasher/rollers" that have less forward speed, and trigger with a roll that kicks out a flash, for really cold water. The Rogue was the original 'roller', and the original floating Rapala modified too. These tend to have a larger bill, so they don't dart forward so far, but they aren't "supposed to". -Oh, and the deep runners, that... really can't walk bc the lip pulls them down, and the depth doesn't allow slack in the line. But, they, and other jerks, can work well simply ripped and paused. I haven't paid too much attention to "posture". If anything, I like them them to hang straight. Baits that sit level I (am guessing here) are better apt to "walk". I'm less impressed with ones that put on the brakes too fast, unless they'll roll a side in the doing. I haven't tried the "Rip-Stop", bc it is made to arrest the dart, and has a small lip. It does have flat sides and mylar insert, so it could flash. But, I've bought some of the Shadow Rap Shads, (and counter-weighted them for neutral buoyancy). I counter weight my coldwater crankbaits too. For themm I want a slow rise, bc I want them to rise over vegetation, but not too fast. I'm less interested in a rising jerkbait bc they don't tend to fish through veges as well as CBs. However, the X-Rap has turned out to be the most weedless jerk I've fished, owing to its bill configuration. That's been my take. Action, and attitude, over posture.

Gee. Thanks! I've been likened to Doug Hannon (I've even "caught 100's of bass"... over a 3lbs), Glen Lau (of "Bigmouth" fame), the Lincoln Memorial (I can sit next to a pond like a statue for entire days), and now, probably the most fitting, Bob Ross! Hey, my dad is an artist and has taught many painting classes. In fact, he (now in his 80s) and my sister, teach one together now. Chips off the old block, in a way. Anyway, glad people can sit with old Abe as he... watches fish. Paul

I've come to a pretty specific rig for my lightly-weighted/weightless soft plastics/stick-worm rods; I have two: a spinning and a casting. This is the only presentation type (along with drop-shot; these rods are also my DS rods) in which I want a fairly light power tip. I hate wimpy-tipped rods in general, except here. Since bass will often hold onto a soft plastic lure, and are even apt to swallow them, I use the softer tip to "weigh the line”. That is, add tension to see if that tap was indeed a fish, or a stick. If it's a fish, I'll feel "life" down there. For this type of fishing I want a sensitive rod, which means a very light rod in weight, and some length (for the mechanical advantage), which means quality high modulus graphite to avoid clubby-ness. My weightless soft plastics/stick-worm/DS spinning rod is a 7ft Kistler LTA, rated a M, 8-14lb. It weighs just under 4oz. My casting rod is a Browning Midas Boron 6’10” M 8-15lb, that weighs 4.7oz. Again, both double as M DS rods.

If brand means anything anymore -here's to hoping it does- Shimano makes great reels. I have/had Daiwa's, Abu's, Quick, Shimano, and BPS. All have been good. My very first was a Shimano Bantam Mag I bought in, I believe, 1984. I still use it regularly! I love that reel. ❤️ I've been kinda lusting after the Curado's. But, I don't need another reel.

Yes, they are different. And yes, some are better than others. But for what purpose, and by how much? Is it worth the work/expense/confusion? That’s up to you where your thresholds lie… Here’s the simple easy answer. And it’s true! Basically, ALL modern fishing lines are technological marvels. They are all SO good that... we're blessed. But I hear you, we're a little too blessed. So, I’ll give some details —I feel I can say something about— that might give you some working info on braids. I haven't fished all the braids out there by any means, and new stuff comes along all the time. How “new” —that is, how “breakthrough” are they?— is always an open question —until we buy them, and give them a serious (beyond unboxing) workout. Such attempts as the “new” 5 and 9 carrier braids out there have me a little dubious, at least as far as me going out and replacing my existing lines goes. So, some examples that can make the point about what can be different across braids: Spiderwire Stealth: First braid I used -I think was THE first braid out there (?). I seem to remember that the technology came from research into how spiderwebs —amazingly strong/diameter— were constructed. That research came out of my alma mater too. I still remember a picture of the grad student talking about how amazing spiderwebs are. I still have some Stealth on my reels and still use it. It's a little thicker in diameter than newer braids, but, I have no idea if the break ratings are accurate across braids. Stealth is a soft line. And it has a habit of softening —the weaves "opening up”-- after much use. This is OK but it does catch the wind a bit more than more solid-bodied braids, and it can catch in dry brush and grass along shorelines. And being so soft it can tie knots in itself and on rod-tips a bit easier than braids that maintain some “body”. Well-used ("fluffed-up") Stealth has it's advantages though: It lands very softly on the water —a real plus for sight and finesse fishing. And it's “fluffed-up”/“flattened” diameter makes a good strike indicator for shallow soft-plastics. Power-Pro: It came on the market offering more "body" and durability —not fluffing up so much. It's a tad stiffer until broken in, but fishes really well. Fire-Line: A “Thermally-Fused" (melted) braid that I rarely kept on a reel long enough to find it's advantages. It's thicker than most braids, takes time to break-in and appeared to me to really need that breaking in, at least for finesse applications. Brand new, it's rather wiry. It's still on my musky reel though. Those big lures just didn't mind dragging plastic through the sky. Hopefully others will chime in and give a more redeeming, and experienced, opinion on FL. Cabela's "Rip-Cord": Don't even remember where I got it. It operates like other braids. No complaints. Daiwa J-Braid (8-carrier/strand): The braid I'm buying now. Very nice line. I believe it followed in the footsteps of Sufix 832, that introduced a new, and near-breakthrough, technology —an 8-strand tight weave. This makes for a thinner line, with "body" to it; That is, it stays intact (no fluffing). J-Braid is thinner than Stealth and Power-Pro (the old standards), per break rating, by quite a bit. I do not know -again- how accurate break ratings are with braids though. The point may be moot however, bc braids are all stronger than our rods! Going thinner can even be a handicap rather than a plus, as with "monos". Which brings us to, the micro-braids... Nanofil: Cool idea! I was psyched! I've been looking for thinner and thinner lines since... I discovered that fishing lines are “the most important part of the chain between us and the fish, in terms of getting them to bite”. I'd also always said that “If we could get rid of that pesky line, our main presentation woes would go ‘poof’”! But, there apparently are limits to such a lofty ideals. Nanofil was the first to flirt with that apparent utopia. Bottom line, I found, was that it’s too fragile. It shreds. All braids lack abrasion resistance, as far as I know. If there is an abrasion resistant braid out there, do let me know please! Pretty please! Gliss: A big step-up from Nanofil, IME. I have only used it for finesse applications and find it has good body, handles well, and is impossibly thin. Using something akin to sewing thread may not be the best direction, however, now that I’ve tried it. I’m still hoping to “get rid of that pesky line” -I think. Not sure the current micro-braids are there yet. Abrasion resistance is part of it. And “mass”, “rigidity”, and “density” are others. I have some “24lb” Gliss to try yet, for more regular bass applications, which will tell me more. I know @A-Jay has used it, in fact I followed in his foot-steps on Gliss. I suspect, I’ll be using J-Braid a while longer yet though. All these “blessed” choices we have are a double-edged sword. They represent too much choice, but also fuel innovation. There are better lines to be made. I'm still waiting. My bottom line advice? Don’t freak out! All modern lines are… amazing technological marvels. Pick one and fish, man!

I use fast graphites in my cranking, which nowadays, is mostly shallow to mid. A do a lot of weed-ripping here too, and I need the power there. I gave up fiberglass in... 1981. This is not to say there isn't better glass, or good glass rods out there. I still have an S-Glass Steelhead plug rod. But... I only used it for Hot-Shot side-planing. My regular plug-n-drift rod was a lovely high modulus graphite, that was made... back when few knew how to make use of the wonderous potential graphite promised, properties we can now simply take for granted. ?‍♂️

If you are at all concerned about braking I'd steer clear of the Stealth. I'm not new to BCing, and regularly use reels from 35 to 1 yr old. All work perfectly well, the newer ones quite a bit smoother. Except the Stealth (EDIT: The Stealth is a smooth reel, but...) The brakes appear to be virtually non-existent on it. It is VERY easy to backlash compared to all my other reels. The talk is that it's the super-light spool. Maybe. But I'd think you could makes brakes commensurate. To be fair, I still have to try something else with it: I could be over-powering my casts. And it might pair best with more forgiving rod actions. Anyway, lots of reels out there that cast far and... brake easily. Maybe the Stealth will cast a bit farther? Remains to be seen.

WW's, MBs, and Bombers left an impression on me, bc they wiggled so hard and SM's could be really excitable. I guess this was my point in posting. I didn't mean to send you off on a goose-chase. But, speaking of goose-chases... (It's 2F here this morning)... Years ago (1970s) I had a little knock-off Heddon Sonic shaped lipless. It even had the little lightning bolt on it. It was bright yellow and molded of cheap plastic. I think it may have been solid too. Anyway, it wriggled like mad, more than the real sonics do. And smallies went nuts for it. Another hard wiggler that had smallies in a tizzy was the Helin Flatfish. No one talks about those anymore, at least in the bass crowd. They're still made, but you'd have to look in the trout/salmon, and walleye aisle. They were/are shallow runners but man do they kick. I did find at times that in really warm water, in the summer, the Flatfish didn't provide enough horizontal speed, and smallies would frantically circle it, but not commit. Another one... Bladebaits. Its not just a winter lure. Warm water smallies love them, yo-yo'd intensely. Riiiiiippppp, drop, Riiiiiippppppp, drop, ... . They cast a mile and can hook at distance. I think any hard wiggling thing will catch smallies when they're hot to do so. Depth, speed, and then... action!

Neither are made anymore. They are available on ebay, but, I'm sure there are plenty of new options out there, with plenty of magic. Some already mentioned.

SM seem to respond really well to such aggressive plugs, at least in the warmer seasons when I used them. I sort of lump WW, with other wide billed fat divers that have a wide aggressive waggle. Another favorite was the old Arbogast MudBud, and the original Bomber. I don't have smallies nearby anymore, but do remember how well they liked those hard-shaking plugs.

The only good use I knew of for "flat" mono, was when used for "monofilament nymphing", or bait fishing, using fly-fishing gear, which helped in fishing deep, esp in really cold water, when fly-lines were too thick, and would ice up. Flat mono was less apt to tangle in hand so you could strip it in, like you would with fly-lines. I didn't know it was ever used for conventional tackle. I assume it would be a nightmare on spinning tackle! For mono-nymphing, I just went to spinning tackle, or levelwind gear (steelhead). I was never married to my fly-tackle, as much as I loved FF.

I would guess that BG and XL have similar tensile strengths. But BG is/was meant to lean toward shock resistance while XL leaned toward manageability. Formulas do get updated however. All lines now have more impact resistance ("toughness") built in at the molecular level. Not sure how XL compares anymore. I haven't used it for years now. I went to XT, (which appears to have changed quite a bit over the years) and have been using Sensation, pretty much interchangeably with XT, as well.

Monofilament simply means a single strand, vs multi-strand, which is usually braided. Monos can be made from a mix of polymers (essentially plastics). My comment did not mean that manufacturers don't care about making good products. Diameter is straightforward to measure. Break strength is not. A number of variables appear to make a straight comparison difficult in real world fishing: whether line is wet of dry, knot strength, abrasion resistance, and manageability requirements. This makes fitting a given line formula to a given angler tough to do, esp against all the competition out there. What I'm calling attention to is the diameter of any said "12lb" line. They can vary greatly in diameter, and therefore break strength. If you look at break tests you'll see that, when lines are adjusted for diameter, they are ballpark close in tensile strength. They are highly competitive and virtually interchangeable. But break ratings provided by manufacturers on the box are all over the place, bc diameters are not held constant! As an example, Trilene XL 12lb is .012, while Trilene XT 12lb is .015. This is not unprecedented in the industry. Most "abrasion resistant" lines are a heck of a lot thicker than their "manageable" counterparts. And they break at a much higher value. And, yes, they are more abrasion resistant, especially when wet -which is what counts. But the effects on presentation makes comparing a "12lb" line with another "12lb" line, essentially dead in the water. Is this deceitful on the part of manufacturers? I doubt it. I actually wouldn't know what it takes to market something as potentially frustrating as fishing line to a public that doesn't really want to know all the details, but just wants to go catch some fish. At least at the scale a manufacturer's viewpoint. But when I sold mono fishing lines at a tackle shop, I at least compared them by diameter. After that, we could start talking additional properties. In terms of presentation (depth, speed, action, water disturbance, etc) diameter rules. Diameter also accounts for a greater proportion of all "fishability" properties we buy lines for. I've simply come to ignore "break rating" and compare mono lines by diameter. I don't really know what manufacturers are thinking when they take a line that breaks at 17lbs and measures .015", and label it a "12lb" line. I'm baffled by that one. Have been for... decades now. Another case in point. Berkley Vanish FC ended up hated by bass fishers, bc it broke. But, it's a manageable FC; A "walleye" line. The only bass guys not complaining about Vanish I noticed were using 14lb or 17lb. Then came Berkley's "bass" formula, dubbed "100%". It was under-rated in break strength, like XT to XL. No problem, I just used the "6lb" as an "8lb" and the "8lb" as a "10lb", etc.. But... why? Is it an attempt to add choice, that really scarcely exists? This is not to say that lines aren't continuing to evolve, and I'm all for the innovation. But reliance on "lb test" without regard to diameter is a head-scratcher. When I go to buy a new line, I look at diameter. It'll account for more properties we buy mono lines for than any other property, and is the primary influence on presentation. After diameter, we can look at other properties different line formula's possess.

No idea. But, if you zoom up to the image above you'll see that the "12lb" has a diameter of .014". That's akin to 14lb Trilene XL, or Stren original. The only way to compare lines is by diameter. Break ratings are marketing categories, not real data.

No. Only bc there are much tastier fish out there.

That was good. Me too, believe me.

Why... funny you should ask, Brian. Yes! It's one an old Indian told me about once upon a time. But apparently, its not such a secret anymore: "Every post has focused on two key ideas, if not the exact words: accelerations, and pauses." Oh, I'm accelerating alright, in a few too many directions. Between regular life, and video shooting, I haven't fished, or released any videos at all. Regular life has been less than regular of late too. I've begun to wake with one eye first, just to see that the house is still there. My wife changed schools the week before school started, and that has been huge; Previous teachers always seem to think the incoming teacher will want all their junk. Some recent surprises have included: the flu running through the family, food poisoning?, and my son wrecking his knee, again. "Papa, can you come pick me up? I think I may have really done it this time." We've had a dr's appt just about every week since the end of summer. I keep thinking that next week will be the end of the tunnel. It's been downright painful watching the time go by, taking another deep breath, and just attending to the really important stuff. Short answer is, yes! I've simply been prioritizing my time on getting the next documentary out. It's on the development of behavior in LMB, from egg to adult. Some work to be done yet there. Right now, I'm trying to optimize the resolution out of my shots of 9mm long bass feeding on sub-mm zooplankton, the size of... well, you could stuff an awful lot of them into a grain of rice. Luckily, I've had only one complaint that my vids don't have enough "BIG BASS" in them. Here's to hoping for a spring release date.