J Francho

Looks like this: TD-X103HSDL

My buddie Burney and I went out two springs ago to test this out with a laser pointer. We found that even with the high power pointer, it was still to bright, even in the shade, to work.

There's been several posts made, and recently. I'm not going to spoon feed everything here, but one refers to fluoro's density. Believe it or not, another is a negative, its stiffness. Think of how these, and other attributes might be a benefit over other lines. Start thinking for yourself, and you'll become a better fisherman.

If is doesn't make a difference then why would any tournament angler ever use anything other than a superline, except for in rocks? Pro's will always use anything they think gives them an advantage. Why? Because they don't have to pay for it. The big difference between them and us is the fact that we have to buy our products which makes us choose more discreetly whether a product actually is giving us more fish, or a better performance,thus justifying the amount of money we have just spent on the product. If an angler really doesn't think that fluoro gives him an advantage over mono then he certainly isn't going to shell out the money for the more expensive line.. Not all tournament anglers are pros, and there are VERY good reasons to use fluorocarbon other than just rocks.

Said the guy without a shirt. ;D ;D It HAS to be a joke, coming from Sam. Congrats.

Any soda seems to work, but diet seems to work the best at stopping the bleeding. Never heard of putting a CARBONATED beverage in the livewell helping the fish. If you want to treat your livewell, Sure Life Catch & Release is what seems to work the best.

Any soda seems to work, but diet seems to work the best at stopping the bleeding. Never heard of putting a CARBONATED beverage in the livewell helping the fish. If you want to treat your livewell, Sure Life Catch & Release is what seems to work the best.

Any soda seems to work, but diet seems to work the best at stopping the bleeding. Never heard of putting a CARBONATED beverage in the livewell helping the fish. If you want to treat your livewell, Sure Life Catch & Release is what seems to work the best.

Usually it takes about 30 seconds or less to weigh the fish. Probably less time than it takes you to unhook, photo and release. There are some college series that are weighing the fish in a tank. That seems pretty interesting, though many would not understand that mass is mass, even in a tank of water. I was involved in a long discussion about weigh ins, or really about "whose fish is bigger," and I came to the conclusion that displacement was the way to go.

Yay for Team Atari. ;D

It weakens the line above the hook. Twists in the line and too much heat usually make a weak knot.

True, but there are definitely "best practices" for specific applications. In a general sense, bearings get oil, gears get grease. Worm gears is a debate, I like oil. Even bearings can be a debate, as I pack non free spool bearings with grease.

Deja vu!

If at all possible, get the hook out.

I'm not sure either, LOL. Laurie Rapala must be rolling in his grave. ;D

A 10" bass or a 10 lb. bass? :

Crappy picture of my buddy, but shows what I hope to be doing this weekend:

So even MORE special, being that big.

Pull both, at first. Once the main line loop is snug, pull only the tag. The kink should be on the tag that cut off. If its on the mainline, before the hook, start over.

Nope, much easier to read like this....

Don't double it up first. String the hook up. Pinch the hook and line in one hand, and bring the tag end back through. You should have no trouble with this method, and your knots will be better since you aren't pinching the line. I use it on 8# line and #6 hooks without problems.

The release shot shows off how massive that big boy really is. So, is that a huge native rainbow, or are you on steelhead water?

In certain situations, yes. Very well designed bait.

3-5"? A little on the low side, LOL.

I gonna make me a million dollars on braid scissors made out of zebes.