J Francho

There are at least a dozen variables in the riddle of what the bass will bite that I will attempt to solve before hook color even enters my radar. 99% of my hooks are nickel or black nickel. Think location before thinking hook color.

Underneath the plastic caps on the paddles are rivets? Almost all my Daiwas have a screw there. Remove that screw, and the paddle slides off the handle post. That's surprising if its rivets on a reel of that caliber. I guess they want you to upgrade to an I'ze handle instead of just adding bearings. My partner just picked up one of these, and I'll have to take a look 1st hand.

Since I'm usually flipping and pitching into weeds, no leader necessary, in fact its counter productive. Green braid matched the background vegetation just fine, and if you're worried about visibility, or using a brightly colored braid, use a Sharpie to color the first few feet to your bait black. Now if I'm fishing docks, I'll use a 6' or so leader of P-Line CFX or Gamma Leader, in 12-20# size. This will protect against abrasions from any rusted dock posts, or the zebra mussels that grow around here. Obviously, if they are floating docks and no zebes, this isn't necessary.

I usually check for "foreign matter" first, and see if a cleaning doesn't shape it up. I once found a grilled cheese sandwich in one of mine, and it really inhibited the smoothness... But, depending on how long its been, and if something got in there to prematurely wear them out, its an easy enough fix to replace with new pads. Send me a pm

I've been through a few nightmares. Recently. Don't ask. They were Flooger related. ;D

Good tip about the order of things. I do it that way, but after a while, the line succumbs to "Real Magicitis," getting spongy. I have no doubt that's from it breaking the L&L down, and ultimately the line itself. I'll look up the food grade silicone. My family is in the food service business, so this shouldn't be too hard to track down. The only thing I can think of is something like those boutique olive oils as a base, or something else "natural." Obviously, it would have to be significantly thinner. I know a bunch of guys that would field test it for you And, yeah, pollution is always a concern. You don't want your favorite hole to look like this: And yes, that's the "Genny," you know the one they get the water to make this from:

I use P-line CXX in 15# for TW. Its not nylon mono, but a much stronger copoly.

115 or 128. I do have one 100 size, though.

Each model has its own eccentricities, so no single walk through would apply. I don't recommend breaking down a spinning reel without a schematic and someone experienced in this looking over your shoulder. Find a reel repair place nearby, or contact the manufacturer to have it done professionally.

What he said!!!!!!! As for my feelings for the Yankess, as a Mets Fan They don't need a manager the need a pharmacist on that team Actually, a lot teams need a pharmacist....to tell them what the stuff is, since all these guys say they had no clue what they were taking. :

This is off topic, somewhat, but pertains to the subject.... Rob, you probably get sick of repeating yourself about the true value of L&L. I know I've been pimping it to the guys in our club. One thing I wonder about, for us guys up North. While all our bass lakes are frozen solid, a bunch of us float/drift fish for steelhead all winter long. Sometimes in temps in the single digits. Obviously, water freezing on everything is an issue. The main issue is that water is on the line when you retrieve it back on the spool, and eventually it freezes in chucks on the spool, making drag free drifts impossible. L&L buys you significant fishing time by keeping the moisture out of the mono filament - pretty much required as mainline for these big fish on light line, but doesn't displace the water as much as needed. The fix is to change out the spool with a fresh one, and put the frozen spool in your pocket with a hand warmer. There are also issues with guides icing up, and if you accidentally dunk your reel, its game over. Can't fix clumsy or stupid. One thing we do is use something to displace the water, so that a quick tap or shake gets most of it off before it inevitably freezes. I've tried Pam cooking spray on the guides, ice-off paste, Chapstick, WD-40, etc., but they are all very messy solutions. So far the best product has been Real Magic. Water literally runs off the line as you retrieve it. I have to think that there is a safer and more natural chemical out there, and it seems you guys could be the ones to come up with it. Any plans? Ever consider something like it? BTW, I've begun shooting my Raven and Drennen plastic floats with L&L, and I do find that it protects the finish, and makes it easier to knock the ice chunks off. Again, you've got a great product, and I appreciate your detailed explanations.

I used it for years, before trying KVD late last summer. In all situations, KVD is better at "line conditioning" than Reel Magic. There are specific circumstances, though, where Reel Magic's water displacement characteristics are advantageous. The way I see, it, they serve two different purposes.

I hope we get to find out who the other 103 players that tested positive were, and what percentage that represents. This is the tip of the iceberg.

In subfreezing temps, Reel Magic will keep mono from absorbing water, and freezing. Several applications are necessary throughout the day. In all cases, I treat my line with KVD, regardless if I'm going to spray it Reel Magic. KVD does do something that actually improves the line. Reel Magic simply displaces water, temporarily. Unless you fish very cold weather, all you need for your line is KVD.

I bought a Frog Sammy. I'm going to shoot it with black paint. ;D

A lot of the guys that fish Erie tourneys a lot use deep-v so called "walleye" boats. There were many times out on Lake Ontario that I was glad to have my 16' deep-v than a 20' bass boat.

There are different classes of mod-V tin boats, for sure. A friend of mine fishes a 19' Xpress with a 225 Vmax. This is not a "cheap" boat.

Shimano Spirex are a well made reel with a trigger. My main issue with this type of reel is that they usually lack infinite anti reverse. Instead, they backup to a point where the trigger device at the top so its always there when you are ready to cast.

Live Sammy 120 in Impact Yellow and Sammy 115 in Frog were on sale for $7.77 at the BPS in Auburn, NY.

Scott has several other articles out there, detailing using a plain old grub (specifically on an Outkast Money Jig), so I think he's making a bigger point about profile. I'm not entirely convinced that his process in determining what bait to use went from a Senko to swim jig with a grub. Personally, the progression seems backwards to me. I'd have started with something like a spinnerbait or jerk bait, downsizing to a grub, finally fishing a Senko or drop shot plastic. If I found they were taking a simple grub, it isn't very likely that I'd mess with bait profile, though that's probably what separates me from the pros. The day two part of the story is very interesting, as it sounds to me that he was merely finesse jigging with a jig labeled as a "swim jig," while using a grub trailer. He said the fish were "holding tight to cover" which I assume meant weeds. I'm not surprised a small, pointy head jig worked here, though I wonder if other techniques might have worked as well. In his other articles, he has a well documented process for using what baits at what temperatures starting from ice out to spawn, so I'm a little surprised that this anecdote doesn't include similar info. As for line recommendations, if I'm in the lake proper, I'm with RW with the 6# recommendation. He did say he was "in the back of a bay" which on the Great Lakes is very similar to many small eutrophic reservoirs and lakes, so heavier line may have been more important. At any rate, the main gist I got was creativity led success on those two days. They adjusted and were still able to catch fish. In that respect, its good info.

Doesn't matter what hand I use, but my JB rod has a RH retrieve baitcaster on it.

That's a spinning reel, a whole different deal. If I'm not mistaken, both sides of the main gear and pinion gear are supported by ball bearings on the President, so you'll want to be sure the main gear is seated in the bottom bearing perfectly along with having the gear teeth properly engaged with the pinion and oscillation gear. Be careful not to force it back and forth, or you'll possibly damage the bearing races, or more likely prematurely wear out or crack the bearing seat in the body. It shouldn't take any force to reassemble.

Well, the difference wasn't as visually graphic as I thought, but the side by side, the Acetone is a clear winner. I guess I really need to evaluate these things side by side. The acetone really needed to be changed out much more frequently than the naphtha, indicating that it really was better at getting the junk out. They definitely dry out faster, but I already knew that about acetone. It is really stinky stuff though.

Apparently is, just turned 79. He'd roll cast with his side burns. OK, I'm don now.

Is Shaunessy still alive?