J Francho

Thanks, I just randomly grabbed three that were on this computer to test out the process for @jbmaine.

Short answer, no. Components would be another aspect that contributes to price. Take a look at Okuma EVX. They run $100 - $125. I've been testing them out since last summer, and I'm really pleased. There's heavy competition at that price point, and that's a good thing from a buyer's perspective. I own several G.Loomis and St.Croix rods, ranging from $120 - $350. At the same price point, you're getting a lighter, crisper rod from the Okuma.

Not seeing the issue on my end. Clear out the cache and restart your browser.

You can't make any generalizations. There's good stuff out there, and not so good stuff. There are several recognized brand names on this board that are well supported by our members. Pretty easy to figure out the trends. What's your price range?

Get well!

We aren't a photo hosting site. There's room for a few pics, but prefer you use a 3rd party, like: https://postimages.org/

Not even bouncing it. Imagine a trout feeding on the bottom, distracted and unwary of predators. To the OP, don't bother with the iRod you mentioned. If you want to throw baits of this size and larger, get a proper swimbait rod. The Okuma Guide Select SB rod in heavy model will suit you well, and is reasonably priced.

A few pages back, someone did exactly this.

The not so subtle difference is the visual flash a lipless provides. Same for flat sided cranks. They are a different animal altogether.

Put this on a light Bullet/Stroker/Allison hull and you won't need two. My 22' bullet does 84 mph with a 2.5L ProMax. Imagine what another 150 horses would do. There's some video of a guy running 100+ in a Stroker with a 300hp 3.2L. http://www.mercuryracing.com/outboards/engines/race-offshore/

I think this is less true, if you're using the same sensitive stick we use for detecting the slightest tap. If you are just gonna toss them out there on an Ugly Stik, lay your rod on the ground, crack a beer and wait for the line to take off, then sure, you're going to have some deeply swallowed hooks. But fished the way we do with modern finesse gear, I don't think it's the problem we've made out to be. I include myself in that group, btw. I've thought about this, but haven't put it into practice. Live bait is expensive and messy. To answer the original question, I used nose hook a crawler, leech, or soft shell crab using a #1 or #2 bait hook on a split shot or drop shot rig. We didn't call the rigs that back then. They were either fishing "on the bottom" or "off the bottom" respectively. The split shot was for around 10' or less, drop shot for deeper.

Keitech.

This is way off topic. Start a new topic in rods, reels, and line.

Hype? No, it's not hype. It's best in class lure of it's type and a staple for most dedicated swimbaiters. Fish it the same way you'd fish a jig. Bottom contact is a must. I personally don't like the weedless version as much as the top hook. I'm usually just outside the weed line with them anyway. I like the American Trash Fish rigged on an Owner Beast for weeds. Slow sink would good for somewhat shallower water. I prefer the ROF 12 versions, since I fish fairly deep. I use 20# P-line CXX. Mend-it fixes tears, though there's nothing you can do about a pike. I have a couple with the paint wore off the face, and they still get bit. They are a totally different bait than a line thru plastic.

Right?

This. There's a sweet spot that changes on different ramps. It's just before the stern floats off the trailer. Note where the water line is, and pull up 6-10" from that spot when retrieving. See how that works centering the boat on the trailer.

There's a lot in this recent thread: I have a few pair ranging from $20 polarized you get off the spinner rack at DSG to very expensive Maui Jims.

I think I do, but in reality I'm probably slower with the jig, and faster with the T-rig. It's not intentional, just works out that way, if I take a look at myself. THAT might explain the size thing, too. I should probably dial the T-rig back a bit and slow down.

https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/202401-booyah-toad-runner-frog/?tab=comments#comment-2267237

Generally, I agree with this, but my PB came on a T-Rig. That's an anecdote, not a data trend, though. For me, it's all about MY mood, cover present, and what I'm getting bit on (fish's mood). I've had a good jig bite go south, and the T-rig bite come on.

Otters are a likely suspect, though they usually target smaller bait fish.

https://www.bassresource.com/fishing/dropshot-bedding-bass.html

You should have long armed them.

Not sure what you accomplish by doing this, other than ruining the handle. You can call the guy recommended, or just figure it out yourself. Look at schematics of current reels from the Daiwa site, and find a reel with removable knobs. Go to a store that sells Daiwa and look the the handle, nut and nut cap, make sure the drag star won't interfere with the new handle. The drive shafts are all the same size as Daiwa. Once you figured which handle to get, call Daiwa and order that part.

I only fished it once, years ago for a NYBASS/Lunkerville get together. It sucked for us, too. Sorry, I'm no help.