J Francho

Yeah but, we're told over and over ad nauseum that the FG is the BEST knot for connections.

What about the money? So every advancement or new technique that requires something different is "about the money?" I don't understand. When we made the switch from steel, cane, and fiberglass rods to graphite, it was money driven? Better hooks with wider gaps, and a z-bend was financially driven? I mean in some respects, it's always about the money. The company that does not satisfy the demand for a product consumers want doesn't get that revenue. You can look at this in many ways. I'm sure there are people running companies that are all about the quick buck, but to characterize evolution in gear as some conspiracy motivated to get us to spend money is a little silly. You've always had to part with your wallet to try something new. Fishing tackle isn't like cell phones or other consumables with designed obsolescence. The new doesn't really cancel out the old. Besides, if you don't see a need, or don't want to try something new, then you aren't forced to buy it.But don't tell me that an industry made up of primarily small businesses (yes, this is true and you'd be surprised how small) is somehow all about the money, and conspiring to jip you.

Depends. If it's a new to me reel, I might get some muffing several casts in a row, until I figure it out. Some reels, never. Fishing in wind with something like a spinnerbait, I might get some loose coils, and mabe a backlash or two in the trip. It's part of the game. Spinning reels are no better. A day deep drops fishing for smallies with a drop shot or tube, and I'll get some coils flying off from twist.

I think it's better to test your own knots with a scale, than rely on data that has so much mystery behind it. Who tied the knots? How many tests were conducted? What brand lines were used? And many more unknowns. I used to do a demonstration at my seminars. Paul (my presenter partner) and I would each tie a Palomar, and test the knot on a scale. We used 6# Invisx (well used, I might add). He rarely got over 4# with his knot. I always got over 6. Paul would change to a knot of his own invention and get right around 6#. I can't even tie the knot he uses. It's variation of a knot used by Alaskan salmon fly guides. Knot strength is and always will be about the how well you tie it. There are knots I can tie, but don't use. Why? Because I don't tie them well, even after practicing. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to not be able to tie a good FG connection. It's so slick, fast, easy, and really an elegant knot. Mine all fail. So, I use a Alberto, or a triple surgeon's on lighter lines. They only break if I lock down, and intentionally break the leader.

A 13' Avid centerpin rod (for salmon and steelhead) weighs 5.9 oz. and is rated for baits up to 4 oz. The 15' version (I've used this rod, and its extremely well balanced with the reel about 9" from the end of the butt) is 6.8 oz. I have no doubt rod builders and mass manufacturers will no problem applying what they know about these longer rods to bass fishing rods. I think as bass anglers, we live in a bubble. Our rods are short, even at 8' by many other standards.

Everyone likes to recommend senkos for beginners, but I like to start them off with a moving bait. Something like a spinnerbait or a crankbait. Fish usually hook themselves with these. A topwater is not a bad option either, since it's very interactive. Once they're used to feeling the strike, I'll move on to feel baits. I prefer to use something weighted, but hooks easily. Wacky jigs with a finesse worm, or a jig and grub is a good option. I want them to feel bottom, and how long it takes to get there. Finally, I'll show them weightless options, like senkos. By then, they will have developed a feel for semi-slack line bites. Too often, I'm removing deeply swallowed hooks when I introduce them to a senko from the get go. It's this experience that led me to the path I outlined above.

It really does! Nice setup!

Thanks Tim for the details!

Pike salad. Nice fish man! looks 40" +

I am able to see EVERY head style in extreme close up. You might do a little more browsing. The other lines sometimes have better angles of heads. A football head is a football head, and a brush head is a brush head, regardless of the trailer, hook, or line. Once you've seen an arkey head, you've seen 'em all. There is a really good pic of the football head if you got to the Mata Dredge. Also, keep in mind, this is one guy, who makes these by hand, has a day job, and actually fishes what he makes. I'd buy his jigs if his website was 100% text based.

I've seen it with my own eyes. These are good sticks with the fly rod though. They will out fish you in the slop, lol. I don't care though, I'd rather punch it. More fun to me.

They did. I know quite a few kayak bassers that catch pigs on the fly. Generally, they're using at least an 8 wt (not a buggy whip!) fast taper rod to put a big popper frog right in the same spot in a field of slop or pads. Drop it on the spot, twitch it, false cast, drop it back. There's no other way as efficient. A conventional casting rig has to be reeled in, bait cleaned off, re-cast past the spot, and reeled into the target area, rinse, repeat.

I have a three piece, 15' float rod, and the whole "ferrules make a rod less sensitive" is bologna. I can feel that egg sag grace every rock, ledge, log, root, and odd weed as it drifts weightlessly in the current - and I'm using regular old mono! There will certainly be two piece rods before there are 10' rod lockers.

Yeah, it sucks. Pretty much for either stroking a deep ledge, or running at speed, but really deep. 1/2 - 5/8 is my most common size.

Good stuff, primetime. I'll have to keep the small bait in the back of my mind for next year. I don't use a trailer, er I only have a trailer hook, and I generally want to run pretty deep with mine, so I'm more a 1/2 oz. to 1-1/4 oz guy. Different water - different conditions. Thanks!

I find if you're zipping the bait back up from the depths a lot, you get more twist, than if you reel it back at a more moderate rate. Helps if you hook the bait dead center, too.

Drop shot for deep, open water, I use straight fluoro - 6# Tatsu. For your other presentations listed, I use 15-20# braid and fluoro leader material (not reel fill line).

I bought a pile of these on clearance, years ago just before they were bought out, and all but a few of the Titanium ones eventually snapped. I guess they lasted about as long as a regular steel bait, but what's the sense in the extra cost if they don't actually last longer? Just curious, what are you guys using these 1/4 oz. baits for? All I can figure is a really slow retrieve, but keeping it shallow running?

Yeti's are real.

I use Siebert Cosmic spinnerbaits. They're $5, have an Owner Cutting Point hook, a hand wire-tied (custom, if you want) skirt, and I don't need to bust out a new swivel, and a zip tie for it to work. Oh, they come in several sizes. I can't see myself ever throwing a 1/4 oz. spinnerbait, anyway. I won't get into the whole how bad walmartz is for local and small biz. Trust me, you are getting your money's worth with a Cosmic bait. They also happen to be a site sponsor, and no, I do not get a discount. If you're still looking for a good, inexpensive spinnerbait, DSG sells a Strike King Premier for under $5, and it comes with a nice "perfect skirt" and a trailer hook. I like these too, almost better than Mike's for fishing rock and rip rap. The head shape deflects nicely.

Bring back steel rods! Wait, the magnetic draw from forces such as the earth's poles will make us have to recalculate!

Short, whippy rods are currently in vogue in Japan. I foresee a bass nation divided.

A Uni knot is also a very strong knot for fluoro. I don't doubt you know many knots, just not sure you have the names right. Makes it difficult to have a discussion. Bottom line, the whole buzz that this or that knot isn't good with fluoro is pretty much nonsense. Almost all knots I've tried hold very well, PROVIDED THEY ARE WELL TIED. Nylon and copoly were forgiving with poorly tied knots. Not so much with Fluoro. You have tie knots carefully. Any deformation before the knot, and you failed\; time to retie.

About the closest you'll find is the Improved Clinch Knot, improved by passing the tag end back through the large loop. I use it a lot with strong copolymer lines, like CXX or Silverthread. http://www.animatedknots.com/improvedclinch/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.png&Website=www.animatedknots.com#ScrollPoint Also, the pic you posted is MOST DEFINITELY a Clinch knot, not a Uni. This is a Uni: http://www.animatedknots.com/duncan/#ScrollPoint

That is a clinch knot, oft cited as notoriously bad with fluoro, though my friend Noel "No" Good uses it, and has a few big (over 6 lb.) smallies under his belt. This is an Albright: http://www.animatedknots.com/albright/index.php#ScrollPoint