J Francho

The Popmax and Sammy 115 are about the only top-waters I throw, but I throw them a lot.

That's apples and oranges. Throw out all the variables, about whose hands are holding the rod, what kind of bite it is, etc, and I think the simple question is: does line transmit vibration better as diameter increases? I honestly don't know. I'm not sure you could tell.

The comment wasn't aimed at you - it just came after yours. It was a general statement.

But seriously....if you don't like the discussion, move on. It isn't necessary to point out your negative opinion of the question. We get it - some like this stuff, some don't.

I am sensitive to oversimplification, lol.

This seems to have become a hot topic lately. Lots of threads out there: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/search/?type=all&q=snap+swivel

Put them in a bucket of water. They sink.

I never understood the notion of a "proper" length for pitching. I can pitch cast with any rod - including a spinning rod. As mentioned above, it's a great length for pitching in tight quarters around docks or lay downs.

Sound is vibration. Some basic science: http://www.sciencekidsathome.com/science_topics/what_is_sound.html

From the video: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/shaky-head-tips.html

Exactly - a floating worm isn't always necessary for a shaky head.

They're the same plastic, just different shapes. They do not float.

Yes. If you want to go higher, you can go to 12#, which has a break strength of around 22 lbs.

I don't use fluoro with jerkbaits, 10# CXX works best for me.

With the bracket, you could switch between the two - an assumption on my part. I would prefer that setup, since there are times when I'd want a cable steer, and others when I'd want a electric steer. I'm not sure there any issues with the bracket, so hopefully someone can comment on that.

Exactly what Glenn said. I actually have wanted there to be a guide there on rods that I flip with.

Interesting question. I don't think I use a big enough difference in diameters to say. I generally stick to 6, 10, 12, 15 for fluoro.And each certainly is not always on the same blank. I bet in the extreme case NYBasser details, there might be something to it.

Roboworms, and Berkley Shake Power Worms are what I like.

I've done that, lol. It's not as bad as you'd imagine. I think my gf's line was the best: "Why is the floor always sopping wet?"

Hard to tell when they're that young. They all look very similar.

There are times when I won't even go on plane on the bay by my house. It's like a bathtub in an 8.0 earthquake!

Snaps are fine, I like Duo Loc snaps. Swivels are fine. Spro makes a reliable swivel. It's snap swivels that are the problem. They're usually cheaply made. I use them on any bait that has a split ring to attach. In fact, I remove the split ring altogether. That isn't necessary, but it's what I do. Jigs, hooks, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, I tie direct.

That's eatin' size.

Go ask the construction workers who is in charge or who the owner is. Ask them, but prepare for a "no" answer.

You gotta see my buddy No Good (Noel) hook set a drop shot. He sets it like two or three times, and hard! He's a got a few smallies over 6 lbs., so who am I to say? I still wrist flick set on any light hook. I've had some get off trying to just lift and reel. This guy knows a thing or two, and he recommends the same: http://www.richz.com/fishing/articles/dropshot.html Not saying the reel set and sweep is wrong, I just have zero confidence. I use to say the same about crankbaits and trebles - just reel and sweep, but I payed attention, and I even pop them too. Nothing like the "lift and separate" smash and grab jog I do on jigs, T-rigs, and frogs, but definitely popping them. Like a lot things in fishing - whatever works!