J Francho

I don't even carry drop shot weights less than 3/4 oz. Often I go up to an ounce. I fish Erie and Ontario...

Here you go....one stop and shop:

A simple, fixed skeg would resolve the issue.

Just grabbing some popcorn....

I've done some commercial photography in the past - it helps to get feedback. Sometimes your client isn't 100% sure of what they want. He may also be building a portfolio.

Looks great! You will want to have that split ring attached to line. It may seem distracting, but it looks awkward without.

No worries, lol! Just adding some silly to the thread.

I prefer the weak link in my setup be between my ears.

It's usually the simplest answer.....

We also don't encourage releasing fish with hooks embedded in their mouth. They don't just "rust out," like so many believe. These are less than $15. Seems like a logical choice to me...

Just get a plug knocker. Mine has never failed to get a bait back.

Been using Invisx in 6# for four years, and very happy with it. Also been using Tatsu in 4 and 6# for two seasons. I think it's a little better than Invisx, especially in terms overall strength, but it's pricey. It is the best fluoro I've ever used, though.

That'll be fine.

The post wasn't about line stretch, it was about deformation from line yield. The example was hypothetical. Sometimes threads take a turn down the technical, "measurebator" path. Anyone that has yanked hard enough on a hung lure to break the line has seen deformation from line yield. Tom's point was that he didn't think that was the problem with a drag setting at 3 lbs. of resistance with 12 lb. line.

Use KVD L&L after each trip. Memory Issue resolved.

It applies, here: It's the reason for the oft recommended "set your drag to 1/3 the break strength of the line" advice.

CXX Seige Big Game All pretty tough lines.

IPT was actually a deciding factor for getting a few 2500/3000 CI4 reels. Can't tell you how many times a smallie rockets to the surface while I'm left reeling up 30+ feet of line to catch up. Those 4 or so extra inches do make a difference, sometimes.

A duo-loc snap is a good choice. I haven't found a snap-swivel that is up to the task. They were originally invented for attaching trolling weights to the main line, not lures to the terminal end. Wrong tool for the purpose.

What I like about the Boga for pike in particular, is that they can spin while still attached. I still weight my fish in a FishGrip with a scale through the hole, but a Boga is a little better. AT 10x the cost, it should be, lol.

This is an philosophy you need to abandon. Line size has zero to do with the size of bass. No bass is big enough to break most line we use. Heck, I go as low as 3# fluoro for smallmouth - IN OPEN WATER. I've also used 30# fluoro for largemouth in weeds that have zebra mussels growing on them. The main drivers behind using heavy line is COVER and ABRASION. ************************************************************************************* Anyway, I really think this person simply saw someone catch a fish on a Texas rig, and did their best to approximate the rig. Instead of making fun, the next time you see this type of thing, give them some hooks, weights, a few baits, and a quick lesson on how to tie it up and fish it. That's how I learned about a Texas Rig. Some anonymous bass fisherman passing our dock took time out from a tournament to show a ten year old a new way to fish.

That's cool as heck!

Depends on how much use and how much exposure to the sun. Once a month down to a couple times a season, depending.

Can you show the underside, where the reel foot attaches? I like it...modern Tennessee style grip.