J Francho

Sure, if you like using a foot or more per retie. For me it's pain. I just use a Uni knot.

Fishing is all about problem solving. To us, a Kahle live bait hook, attached with a square knot, and a egg sinker may look odd, but it might have been all the person had, and of it got that bait to where the fish are, it probably got bit. Clearly, it got hung up, so that's the next part of the problem to be solved. It's seeing things like this that make this site so useful and satisfying - our members can skip all the trial and error.

I never heard anything about a "softer mouth." You gotta link or evidence of this? For cranks, you want a slow taper, not just a soft tip. You might do well to try the KVD rod, but I really think the whole use a special rod to keep them buttoned is one tiny part truth, and one giant part internet conjecture. Far too many use the "wrong rod" for cranking with great success (myself included) for this to be that critical. What I do seriously believe is that a slower tapered rod with moderate action offers a better rebound when deflecting and a bit slower time reacting to the sensation of your bait hitting cover - meaning you aren't immediately burying the bait in the weeds or wood, if you're fishing it right. It's a bit of an art navigating a crank through cover without hanging or fouling, and a slow rod helps. As for the problem, I'm going point you in the direction of hooks and how you are playing the fish back to the boat. I like Owner Stinger ST-36 for most bass lures. Take a critical look at what you are doing once hooked, and try some different things, like side pressure, and gentle leading while applying light pressure to the fish. Last thing - small fish seem to have an easier time getting free from cranks, in my experience. I don't worry about those guys too much. Seeing is good enough for me.

I dig that seat. Fish it, you might be surprised.

I don't need to know anything other than a clinch isn't going to do it with braid. Use a Uni knot. A Palomar is a pain to use with big baits.

I typically leave a MS Mini Slammer trailing 20 yards behind the boat when I go out in the kayak. It gets bit pretty often. Those are bonus fish to me.

Not a "dead stick", but just about any bait that is left alone can get bit. I don't know about your plan to sit for 30 minutes, but that's your patience, lol. I'll keep moving after a few minutes and look for active fish.

A little memory isn't a bad thing. Without it, your line would spring off the spool. The more you fish with it, the less memory is an issue.

You can dead stick anything.

Straight braid, no less than 50#.

I use a stronger line like 20# P-Line CXX for swimbaits > 1 oz.

I don't know if I'd categorize them as cheap junk. They're new, but they're part of Allen Fly Fishing, and they make a few USA made fly reels.

They aren't so much a problem with lipless vibe type baits, but billed cranks, especially ones with the eye loop in a recess tend to get the split ring out of alignment, fouling the bait. It doesn't happen as much with a duo-loc. Also, I can tie a palomar to a small snap easier than a whole crankbait.

I remove the split rings altogether, and use a duo-loc snap. 3/4 of my baits already have the snaps on them, so I generally retie often.

looks like it. A quick google search reveals: http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,4570,7-153-10365_10884-34770--,00.html

You need to learn how to use one of these guys:

A fly rig is the only way I know of where you can drop a popper in small patch between pads and slop, and simply pick it up, and quietly put it back in the same spot. With conventional gear, you have reel in, cast beyond your target, and pull the bait back to the spot. Time consuming. There's definitely a place for a fly rod in bass fishing.

Congrats! My only suggestion is get the digital maximizer type. Better speed control and longer battery life.

I throw artificials simply because I have control issues, lol. Worms and 'dads never do what I want them to. These are good debate examples! Yes. Just as with live bait, location is the number one consideration. Where you put your bait determines whether you get bit. It's a basic tenant of fishing. You can't catch fish where there are none. Also, in the case of the jig (#2), you chose the weight, profile, trailer, color, etc. to exhibit a certain "fall". BTW, eliciting a strike is one thing, you still have to get it to the boat.

Of the two, a palomar is a stronger knot, if well tied. A uni knot is easier to tie, and very strong, so I use that more often for fluoro, unless it's a drop shot rig. Then I use a palomar. The only time I use an improved clinch is with copoly, and spinner baits, buzz baits, and the like.

My usual plan is to start on top, and work my way down, while working shallow water to deeper water. So....topwater, to crank, to senko or wacky jig, to jig or t-rig. I'll usually end up just throwing a jig as the day progresses. If it's a tough day, I'll "junk fish," meaning I'll rotate baits every few casts. Sometimes that's what it takes.

You want to elaborate on this? Last time I checked, watching YouTube videos was free.

I use whatever tool is appropriate to get bit. Sometimes that means spinning gear with light line, and a little more edge to the fish in a fight. FOr the most part, though if I'm looking for fight, I'll target much larger species. But I still prefer chess match that is bass fishing.

SO far, so good, but it's braid. I really haven't found a "bad" braid in those heavier sizes. Just ones I have a personal preference for. They're all way over engineered for the task, which is a good thing if you like braid.

I'd go straight braid, the Seaguar Flippin' braid is a good product, 65# size, simply because it handles nicer than thinner lines. If it's wood/dock pilings, etc, I go to heavy fluoro.