J Francho

It's been brought up ad nauseum on the forums for years, which is probably why it wasn't mentioned. IPT = circumference X left side of ratio. What doesn't get brought up is spool width. The wider the spool, the less effect line payout has on IPT (via circumference reduction). I always thought that would be an interesting discussion.

I only pointed it out, because so many think that's how it works.

I remember when this was "high speed." Though, Daiwa had 7.1:1 PT series reels that were released in the early 90s. To fess up, I throw buzzbaits (Cavitrons, as well) on a 5.8:1 Alphas.

Nice! Carp are very underrated.

Just a quick science fact check, just because I see people add foam and pool noodles to a hull, trying to add "buoyancy." This isn't true at all. In fact, you're adding mass to the empty space hull, which makes it less buoyant. The main purpose of the foam is to afford some measure of safety flotation if the hull is breached and fills with water. The idea is to keep the boat afloat until the passengers can get to safety. The other purpose is probably to offer a little bit of reinforcement to that part. As for flotation, its the design of the sponsons themselves that offers a stable (very stable, actually) ride. It's not unlike my hybrid kayak, a Wildy Commander 140. Anyway, sorry for the sidebar..... carry on!

That doesn't quite bear out as you stray further from your keyboard. Most guys have a mix on their boats. They have models they liked, didn't like, but they aren't as brand loyal as the apparent Chevy vs. Ford battles you see on forums, lol.

Just a 1 oz egg sinker you'd get at any tackle shop. The two lakes I fish are 75-90' deep.

It's gonna come down to whether you like the wing, and what braking system you prefer. I like Daiwa brakes for hard casting, but I also like the simplicity of the Curado. You won't go wrong either way.

I use an egg sinker, thread on main line, then swivel, then leader with hook, and some sort of salted minnow.Watch the graph, and drag slowly. I wouldn't say it's a "light line" setup, but it's usually a medium fast rod with 10-12# line.

I'd go with something like 12# Big Game mono to start out. Otherwise, the rest looks fine for gen.purpose.

Monofilament: don't use it for bass Fluorocarbon: Seaguar Tatsu Braid: Tuf-Line

You're over analyzing things. Throw a buzzbait with what you have. If you think you would like a faster reel, look into the specs of your reel, and try out a faster reel. As noted above, IPT, not gear ratio is what you use to compare speed.

Treat it with KVD L&L... Been using CXX for over a decade, spools last a season or better, unless I retie a lot and have to refill.

The new Pro Max might have a fitment for that beast!

Trophy Plus 27. Have Croxton make it nice for you. Cup it and plug it!

7:30 is normal? It's usually been safe light, unless it's a bigger open, where it starts just after inspections, which takes you to a few minutes after sunrise.

Technically, you are right, the impeller IS a part of the pump...but since you ruin the gasket taking the lower unit off, it makes most sense to get the kit, which replaces all the wearable parts in the water pump. SO, when we refer to "changing the impeller," we really mean rebuilding the water pump.

The impeller is the water pump. Kit for the 150 Rude/Johnson is about $50.

I change the impeller every other year. It's probably shot. I had a local marine repair shop do mine last year, I think it was around $80 all said and done.

Did you first run something up the weep hole to see that it wasn't clogged? How long has it been since the impeller was changed?

Fast enough. My Bullet is actually set up for fast hole shots, and low plane speed. It's a low/mid 70s boat this way, too. I did put a monster prop on her, raised the motor 1.75" above pad, and got her up to 85, but it took forever to plane, and she was not fun to drive at lower speeds. Beautiful boat, man - congrats.

I don't think braid casts better than mono. It's braided, which means more friction through the guides than slick mono. For some, it's easier to cast hard than mono, which I somewhat agree, though not in small diameters like 20# on a casting reel, but I get greater distance with supple, slick mono. I always treat my lines and guides with KVD L&L. I also really don't like braid and walking baits. It doesn't feel "right." Might be that I've used baitcasters since before modern braid was commonly available.

I'd actually be curious what you get, with what prop, and setup. I bet she does low 70s, easy. Drop back to 50, and save a ton in gas. That's how mine works. 32 GPH @ WOT, or go a month without refilling driving wisely. There's some benefit to high power.

I actually can cast a TW on my 6-2 M/XF Avid farther than any other rod I own, using a specific reel. That reel happens to be a hot rod I built for just this task. I usually load it with 10# mono. I can just about clear the shallow Alphas R spool.

It's a Ranger, so the owner will tell you 75, but gps is no more than 50. (Sorry, Bullet owner joke, lol)