J Francho

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/156572-the-official-i-want-a-bassmaster-bag-thread/?view=getnewpost This is not the appropriate place to ask for handouts.

Tried it. Wouldn't use it at all again. Not for me.

It's nice. It's a good big boy seat too.

I have a Coosa. I'm not thrilled with it. The seat is great, but other companies have caught up, plus I stand more than I sit to fish.

No, it was salt anglers with greater influence over the design. Not all of the industry has a cadre of bas anglers doing R&D for them.

Tennis racket grip tape?

Britches? Lol. The SPF rated pants from various companies are cooler than direct sun, though I'm probably 50/50 with wearing shorts. I use Blue Lizard sun block.

They are Mustad. Check the points, they roll easily.

I'll be able to compare the Lure with the ATAK once I get mine. The Lure is a sweet boat. It's heavy though, and is slow to turn. Reminds my of my old PBG. Not sure what use a bass angler will have for the built in cutting board.

It's not what, it's where. Up here zebra mussels will slice your braid, where as single filament lines perform better.

I just bought $84 in sinkers, lol. No, they aren't tungsten, I got ALOT.

Personally, if your going to go straight anything for Texas rigs, I'd go with braid or a really tough copoly over any fluorocarbon line. If your talking braid with a leader, I use copoly or fluoro leader material, not reel fill line.

New, old…not a darn person will know about them if no one posts about it. Seriously guys, what is it that you think these forums are for, keeping secrets because you already know it all? Either help a guy out and contribute, or move on if your above the thread content. Remember, for every person that posts, there are untold numbers that do not.

Choosing a paddle depends on how you paddle. A lot of guys probably paddle too hard or too aggressively with a low angle, and a shaft with some flex and a less aggressive blare shape is a better choice. I prefer to let the paddle do the work, and save my energy for fishing so I prefer a full carbon fibre paddle with big blades. I don't hit too many rocky rivers, so keep that in mind. A composite blade might be more durable in that environment. A decent paddle can run around $80 on up to hundreds of dollars. I wouldn't spend a ton on a paddle at first until you discover your style and/or learn your technique. If there's somewhere that gives basic paddling classes, take one. It's worth saving your joints.

Females don't bed. It's the males that build and guard the nest. A single female will wander, briefly visit and spawn with a male, and then leaves, possibly to spawn with another male.

Light wire, sharp hooks, and small plastic baits will be fine in minimal cover. Set the drag appropriately.

Or just flip and pitch with a reel that isn't 7:1, like others have done for 40+ years.

I bet there's an old article for every thread on this site, lol.

He just posted this on FB. 20.5"

I know I really have to drive my 21XDC with a 2.5. I've settled with a cupped 27 Trophy Plus and a cav plate. I get silly hole shots, planes at 15 mph, and can run at 75, with room for more top end. That's generally faster than most guys boats that do "75" by a lot. Anyway, when I go up in props, like 29 or 30, I get a ton of speed, but lose all the rest. And it's not fun to drive.

1. ATAK 2. Not sure. 115x, C140 or C120. A Thresher 155 is a dark horse.

My friend on Erie, just now.

Two things. I watched Dean Rojas skip a frog all over Oneida When he didn't need to. When asked about it, he said the skip was part of the presentation. Hmmm, I now skip cast every time with a senko. Pete Gluzik showed us how a 6-7" senko would do all sorts of crazy stuff when fished Texas style with a pegged 1/16th bullet weight. He also skips them every time. Something about the entry and the weight makes the bait do loopy loops.

Wait until you see the new beast...

Why switch? Just use both hands! Twice as many reels to buy!