J Francho

The few Tica reels I serviced (around a dozen) did not look designed to be completely disassembled without breaking parts. Clean and degrease what you can, but don't kill yourself figuring out how to take it down - it wasn't meant to be taken apart by design. I recommend Perfect Solution for degreasing and cleaning parts.

I only fish team events anymore - boater or non. Always a good time with friends and like minded individuals.

I've found it's gotten worse, in the form of less weeds, or the wrong types. Water has gotten much greener too.

Rambler, every tournament I've been in required s working live well, and they always check. Though, I figure they're making sure you don't already have fish in there.

Feeler posts are not allowed in the Flea Market, which is a place to buy and trade used gear. It not for commercial/reseller purposes and its success is built on trust earned by contributing members. I'm moving this to the rod and reel sections you get some feedback on your research, but in order to post in the Flea Market, your thread must comply with the Terms outlined in the sticky threads. Neat reel, and good luck with your research. I'd probably just keep it and display it proudly in my home.

I've been to Santee Cooper. Marked boat lanes would be nice in some places, lol.

The random an occasional rolling is what triggers bites. Not sure why you want un-fluke a fluke.

Thing is, we don't use 15# fluoro for that, so it's not a fair comparison. I'll be going out looking for line class records with line as small as 2#. Most are spoiled with 6# line for everyday use, not 15#. No one would use that for what I'm describing.

Which one? It might have been rhetorical.

We're going to need you to come in on Saturday.

What I saw was almost no belly in fluoro. Yes, through the acrylic tank you can see the fluoro. What happens with other line, really especially with braid, is that the line, even on a short cast, follows the weight straight down, as if it were draped over something at the point of entry, no matter how far from the caster. If diameter were the only factor, then it would far less apparent with the far smaller diameter braid. I believe the demonstrator was using 10# Power Pro. He did have a fluoro leader, but it wasn't but a couple feet long and had no effect. Now that doesn't mean I'm against braid for drop shot, in fact I've written about using that very setup in a few columns here in our articles section, but it's more of a shallow tool. Deep drops, where I probably won't be perfectly vertical - guess what, you almost never are when you're on big water, and dropping bait over the side as is commonly held - I will use straight fluoro over anything else. It's my preference and my system I've worked out for catching fish this way leverages that direct and straight line connection from hook point to rod tip. That said, fluoro makes up the smallest percentage of line used. Two cranking rigs out of six all day, and four of my five dedicated drop shot rigs. The rest are a mix of everything, except old school nylon mono, though I have been known to slap some Siege on a reel from time to time.

Awesome.

If anything, I now have a resentment for all the spelling drills. Turns out all had to do was get to the zip code in this day in age of spell checkers and auto correct. But, I suppose you have to know what is actually right. At least 75% of the time you're using your yours and you're right.

Really good point, Chop.

The only reason I can see using one thing for everything is if you only have one setup.

You only need to see someone fish a bottom bait in a tank with braid and then fluoro and then nylon to see why that "sinking" characteristic is an advantage. Float lines have pretty significant bow in them that takes about a minute to straighten out, and braid will never straighten if you keep moving it. Fluoro doesn't do that. I once watched a "local pro" doing a demo with a drop shot explaining how sensitive it was. And he couldn't feel the double digit steelhead in the tank shacking his bait over and over as it dropped to the bottom. It was funny, I asked him if he felt it and he said not at all. Pretty funny.

Just so we're clear... CX and Fluoroclear are fluoro coated CXX is a copolymer InvisX is fluoro 100% as is P-Line 100% Fluoro Tatsu is two fluorocarbon formulas extruded as one - think "co fluoro" like "copoly"

Yes, and it's paid for itself a hundred times over or more.

I reserve comment. They're nice, slow, and retain resale value.

It really doesn't matter, but topwater are entertaining.

The spool pins are slipping over the engagement grooves on the pinion gear. It's a fail safe, but also can be indicative of overly compressed or weak yoke springs. One thing is for certain, this isn't a fishing situation you are duplicating, unless you reel in a break off really fast, and stop. Probably not - there's always some resistance from the bait and line the water. In other words, there probably nothing wrong with reel, and stop doing this test.

They're pretty quick, too. My 18' goes north of 50 mph with a 115. Ask clayton86, lol. https://youtu.be/_onBOBMagwQ

That is a good tip. Your purpose is clear.

Do you have any useful tips for shore fishing?

relevance? See the title of the thread.