J Francho

I think it's funny when I weigh partners 4 lb. fish, and it says it weighs 2.2, lol.

I prefer a good spring scale. I have a Rapala digital that works pretty well, though it's stuck in metric mode, lol.

I use the Plano Hydro Flow boxes. No more rust. http://www.planomolding.com/product.php?BCCID=138&PID=773

Most of the time, during catch and release fishing, I let them go, and they head straight back down. Occasionally, like four or five times, I must have taken too long unhooking them, and floating them in the livewell showed that they weren't going to be able to, so I fizz them. All of the fish I've had to fizz cam from depths greater than around 28 feet. Anything caught deeper than 20' in a tournament gets watched closely, and at the 1st sign of an issue, gets fizzed. Though I'd rather not do it if not necessary.

Mitchell is part of a much bigger Pure Fishing group, which includes Abu, Penn, Flooger, Shakespeare, and others, and as such they offer many models through all their brands. While Mitchell has been sort of designated as an entry level line, the 300 Pro looks to be a heck of a reel for around $70.

http://fishmitchell.com/

Most modern reels allow you to switch sides. This wasn't always the case.

Practice.

Mine range from 6' to 8' and and anywhere from medium-light to xxx-heavy.

Ummm, you're fishing the wrong spots on Champ. I'd say matted EU milfoil and coontail that is encrusted with baby zebes is comparable to the hydrilla I've fished in FL. Personally, I don't put much stock in rods labeled flip and pitch. Ideally, a rod best suited to one is not great for the other. Also keep in mind, both are just casts - I pitch with just about every rod and reel in my boat. I match rod to lure and cover. My heavy, heavy cover rod is a XXH 7'6" stick with a somewhat moderate bend - if you can call it that, lol. Speedbead knows what I mean, I bought the thing from him. For the heaviest of cover, I like a rod that immediately distributes the hook set across the entire blank - not just the tip, then the mid section, like the typical x-fast rod that is so popular these days. I'm setting the hook and lifting the fish out of cover - lift and separate. That said, the nicest rods to pitch have a somewhat softer, but super fast tip. For flipping, it's so short range, action doesn't really matter to me.

Use a net.

Just talk like a pirate, and you'll be fine.

I'd look at Curado/Chronarch E or Daiwa Zillion, or maybe even a JDM Conquest 50.

Zillions.

Had one on my bench last year. Meh. Fit and finish was lacking. Was smooth, but didn't freespool at all. I'd look elsewhere, for that kind of money. I haven't been too impressed with anything since the old gold accurist or the blue PT series.

You should be able to get tomahawk blades from Jann's Netcraft.

This is what I'd do.

For my slot car track.....

I simply fished new waters.

What is jug fishing?

Arkey and football styles see m to be the most hang up free styles in my waters. Some of my best bank/pond fish were taken on a jig. Like this girl:

Let your butt decide - get some seat time in both.

Some of the best spots in the lake are occupied by the biggest fish in the lake. Those fish are territorial, and chase other fish away. They also do not bite all the time. Those spots that seem like they MUST hold fish, but don't produce bites often get checked, and rechecked. Big girls gotta eat sometime, and I want to be there when they do.

Yes, it's something I pay close attention to. It's pretty easy to nick them, especially if they are aluminum. Nicks are usually accidental from mishandling - setting your pole on something hard or rough while handling a fish. If I find a nick, I try and polish it out with my Drremel tool. Otherwise, if the nick is bad enough to damage your line on the cast, you'll have to replace the spool.

Often times, catching one fish ignites a school of low activity bass, especially smallmouth. They are VERY competitive.