J Francho

What I've learned is immeasurable. I can only use my successes on the water as proof that this site will accelerate your learning curve.

I don't really notice the difference in weight. The only time I really take notice is when I pick up my Dobyns Champ Extreme 744c. It's VERY light for such a big stick. I do notice on both rod brands, the wrong reel can make either feel like a heavy, unbalanced cane pole, or a well oiled fishing machine. I hated my AVC70MHF until I found the right reel for it - a TD-X103HSDL.

I own both Avid and the new GL2. They are about par with each other. Both are very good rods.

Sometimes you outgrow the club, sometimes the club outgrows you. Find another club. Doesn't sound like that particular club is the brotherhood it once was, and doesn't have your back.

Love my Saint Croix sticks!

d**n fine fish, Speed.

Acetone with an alcohol finish.

Nice looking boat!

The Berkley 10" Powerworm, in black, is responsible for my personal best NY bass, 7-2. I was tossing to a weed edge that tapered off and dropped from 17' to about 40'. For some "stupid" reason, I decided to let that work fall to the depths. Not sure how deep it went, but when I jiggled it after several minutes, there was something there - felt like a wet boot. Turns out it was a monster. Keep up the good work.

That's great! Glad we could all help.

LOL, I caught the backhanded compliment. I've done a couple XLTs, and yeah - a little too "innovative." But they were a cool idea, if a little over baked in the engineering dept.

Siebert and Northstar are two VERY good options, and it doesn't hurt that they are both sponsors, and all around good guys that use and support their product. Skinny Bear, Buckeye, and Don Iovino also make good "customish" or better than national brand jigs.

Back when they were actually Swedish cut gears.....

LOL, every once in a while I share my secrets. Just seemed like a shame that he's not getting all he can out of a more than capable reel.

I fished them almost to exclusivity years ago. They were great, solidly built rods that didn't break the bank. I sold most of those off, and too my knowledge, they are still seeing action. I'd fish that rod your mother got you - smart lady!

For colors, black, black and blue, brown, and something with some green and orange or rusty highlights will cover your bases.

Uh huh. I'm not the only person to catch smallies on 6" hard swimbaits, lol.

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Low_Profile/12CU200G7_v1_m56577569830796519.pdf Pull the spool tension cap and friction spring to get to bearing part #4343. You should be able to get it off without removing the handle or star drag - just position the points of the star on either side of the cap. Then open the palm side plate, and gently pry off the bearing retainer clip part # 32 to get to the second spool bearing part #4343. I good tip to remove that retainer clip is to do inside a big ziploc bag. They have a tendency to go flying! Soak them in acetone in a small glass jar. Swirl them occasionally, and check for bits of junk in the acetone. Change out the acetone until no more junk floats in the acetone. Pull them, let them dry for ten minutes or so on some paper towel, then give them a ten minute bath in 70% rubbing alcohol. Pull them out, and let them dry again for ten minutes or so. Add one drop of Bantam Oil to the inner edge of the race, and gently spin the bearing on a pencil to distribute the oil. Let them sit on paper towel for another ten minutes to let any excess oil drain. Reinstall the bearings, putting the parts in reverse order that you removed them. Lastly, do not oil the brake drum. It may work great at first, but the oil will degrade in this application, and get a little sticky. I prefer the brake race simply be clean. Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol, and gently clean the inside race. Do this every couple trips, and you'll have consistent brakes. Good luck, and let us know if you run into any jams.

I use everything from my slower Alphas to a high speed Zillion for topwaters, and I honestly don't notice any difference. I'm sure I'm making an adjustment, but I just let my eyes decide how fast to reel in. Obviously, for something like a toad type bait, a faster reel is preferable. But for poppers, walkiers, hollow frogs, and buzzbaits it doesn't make much difference.

I'm a real original senko die hard, but I've been trying out the YUM Dingers, and I swear the slower fall has been getting out bit while fish are up super shallow and cruising. I've just been crushing them on them lately.

The only thing I change is location and jig head. I fish rocks, and a little deeper. I prefer football heads for rocks.

Biggest in my home state is 7-2 for LMB, and 5-12 for SMB.

If you're tightened down all the way, and you have line peeling off well below the rod or line's maximum capabilities, something is wrong. Spring washers are flattened, or drag washers are worn. If I know Paul as well as I think I do, he's using good gear that has given him years of service. My bet is the washers are toast.

Do not stick your bites if you prefish. If you get a few good bites, leave them alone. Spend a good portion of your day graphing the spots you found during your map/desk research. Check the weeds frequently by snagging them with a deep diver crank bait. Weeds can give you good clues about what is going on, especially in areas you got bit.

That's a solid 'bow! Nice work.