J Francho

He's not putting a PA12 on a Chevy Sonic, lol. For that budget, you can REALLY rig out a Ride 115, Commander 120, Native Ultimate, and several others in this class. Get some seat time in several models. Check out Yakattak and Hook1 for rigging equipment and ideas.

Yep, if you're snapping rods, your drag is set too high.

Teal, use a stiff line, like Seaguar Fluoro Leader Material, and keep tension on the line as it falls.

I have You can also "jack" a crank with a pegged tungsten weight. That is killer on cold water smallies.

Personally, I pick the MOST VISIBLE braid over all else, since line watching is a big part of my fishing. I either use a leader, or color the last few feet of line with a black sharpie marker.

I'd rather stick a fork in my eye than fish a C-rig. That said, there are times an places it's the only thing I'll throw. It's that "a little too deep for cranks" zone.

I have mine on: Saint Croix Avid: 2x AVS63MLXF 1x AVS63MXF

Or tape. Or tie it to the holes if it's drilled.

Try our Flea Market: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/forum/18-fishing-flea-market

those are just rollers, no magnets. My guess, assuming the the AR pack is clean, is that the on/off cam lever is not aligned with the tension ring on the roller bearing. If that's not aligned, you won't get the anti reverse interference with the rollers that makes it work.

I have both on my bench right now. The S might be a little smoother and more refined, but the Citica has beefier internals, especially with regards to the clutch mechanism. They perform equally as well, and I actually like the centrifugal brakes on the lower S Revo over their higher end reels. Can't go wrong either way, though I would spend a tiny bit more on a Lexa - you get refinement and beefy internals on that reel.

I could be wrong, but the Pro designation had to do with colors. The Limited has realistic scaling. The Perfect 10 is a new lure.

That works!

These aren't mine, but they're all sparkly clean.....and FAST.

Here you go. If you do a little googling, you can find CLEAR shrink wrap.

What usually happens is drag grese gets squeezed down there, or to much oile is applied to the spool shaft, and it contaminates the roller bearing. Correct me if I'm wrong, but all Shimano spinner ARB are meant to be run dry.

It wasn't recorded in doubly.

What series? There isn't any magnets in a roller that I know of.

There's more to it than just counts, you got that right. Bearing placement, and the mechanical structure of parts in action both when the reel is in freespool, and when engaged has a lot to do with it. Although the basic concept of the baitcaster has remained unchanged for decades, the solutions engineered for each brand (or model, for that matter) has more to do with it. What galls me is the marketing over bearing counts. More can sometimes mean worse.

I do it for trout. The minimum rainbow here is 21", so you see that on a lot of rods of the meat fisherman.

Most reels with swept handles have a clicking drag star. In all but Shimano's clicker, that mechanism adds significant length to the crank shaft, and puts the bobs out further. The solution is a swept handle. You can easily test this by putting a Sol and a Zillion on the same center axis, and compare. The Zillion's knobs are no closer to the centerline than the Sol's. Compare a Revo STX with a E series Shimano, and you'll see that the Shimano handles are actually closer to the centerline than the Revo. I believe this is the reason Shimano is so late to the game with respects to swept handles - there was no issue to solve. One thing I do notice is relative weight of the handle assembly. I notice that more than bearings, sweep, or length.

You'll be fine with the stiock drag, it has plenty of power. I did upgrade mine with Carbontex washers, but that was more for smoothness, and sub freezing temps.

Not too big at all.

Good choice, I have a few of them, and like them a lot.

Those Lunds are pretty sweet. Congrats!