J Francho

I don't have an overall preference, unless you get into application. I use 15, 20, 50, 65, and 80# Power Pro. 8, 10, 12, and 20# CXX. 4, 6, 8# Invisx. 10 and 12# Berkley 100%. 4# Silverthread. 8# Suffix Siege. 20# 832. And dam0007, you got a bad batch. While it's not my line of choice, I've used Yo-zuri in both vanilla and ultra soft, and it performs as well as any other line. Suffix Siege brittle? That's completely the opposite. I use it in 8# size in sub freezing temps for species that are much larger than typical bass. To each his own, but there have been just a few lines that I've tried that haven't been at least serviceable to use. Fluoroclear is a line that comes to mind as one that I didn't so well with. Berkley 100% in 6 and 8# didn't do well at all on spinning gear, but I love the bigger sizes on casting gear. Line choice is a very personal one, and takes some time and experience on the water to develop a preference.

I find it hard to believe that composted worms is a bass's favorite. I mean it's basically rotted worm poop.

When it's warm, the bigger bass are often resting in deeper water, so you won't "see" them, unless they are feeding shallow.

You reap what you sow.

"Drag" is a major concept I talk about in my kayak fishing seminars. We joke about "Nantucket sleigh rides," but there is some truth to it. In a kayak, you really only need to lock down to about 6# of resistance, and the fish will drag you. This is obviously, an open water technique. You're putting just enough pressure on the fish, but not letting it gain line on you, or beyond the doable 50 yards or so. Very similar to you releasing from anchor, and chasing the fish. It's a big part of my success with kayak fishing, and one I've applied to bass fishing from a boat as well. I use the trolling motor once I hook a fish as part of the "system" to landing big fish. Get them in the open water, and let them tire themselves out. Here's a northern I caught on 8# line - no leader: Here I am being "dragged" by another:

I pulled that price straight out of my.... Good deal, fish it like you stole it!

The Ride 115 is an excellent boat for standing. You'll fall off it before it tips.

They won't laugh at the Phantom. That pellet rifle drops them.

That's pretty accurate. I've played around with 10# braid and my salmon/steelhead. Actually, inspired by your success. It's a system that works, provided you have light gear.

A squirt of Megastrike in your Wheaties will help you feel young.

Chapped palms are better. That's a real good day - when the bass rash is on your palms.

You don't need a high speed reel for Cavitrons. I typically use my relatively slow, 5.8:1 Daiwa Alphas.

Superlines are over engineered - they all work.

I hear Megastrike is the cure for chapped lips.

There isn't really any outdated technology in the reel. It's pretty similar to Calcutta B, Millionaire, Ambassedeur, style reels. They're all pretty much the same, and haven't changed in 20+ years. I'd say $50, if it's new in the box would be fair.

Talk about being on a pattern! Nice!

I use 12# P-Line CXX.

And be sure to use the 25% off code:

From the Megastrike store: http://www.megastrike.com/

These fish great, right out of the box. They come with their own squeak built in, and run straight.

Keep updating us to the progress with pics!

Mike, it was an honor! I've got some ideas for the next one - totally off the wall. We'll discuss it soon.

Fixed it.

I see about 300 reels come across my workbench each year. There is nothing I can tell that quantifies this statement. It's totally false - and I'm a Daiwa/Shimano guy. They all have issues based on usage that have to addressed down the road after heavy use. Daiwa pawl and worm gears, gear sets....Revo clutch kick plates and yoke posts, Shimano drag pads... To make a sweeping statement like that is totally false, in my experience. Some individual models are standouts for durability. A Daiwa Zillion or Advantage, Shimano Calcutta B, Chronarch B/D, Curado B, and older Revo S or Skeet Reese with centrifugal brakes are examples of well designed, long lasting reels.

It has nothing to do with marketing. Marketing only points out a bearing count. It's where the bearings are located. Many less expensive reels use more bearings simply to keep parts aligned in a poorly made frame, or a frame made out of a flexible material. The shaft doesn't rotate at all, it's fixed, and the rotor rotates on the shaft, at gear ratios as high as 6:1. As far as bearings go, they keep gears precisely aligned, and provide durability where rotating parts come in contact with each other. The roller bearing, where the line takes a 90° turn is often overlooked, and if locked up, can cause serious twist and wear to line. Lower end reels will use a plastic bush in place of a bearing to reduce cost. These wear out, and gears will go out of alignment, cause early wear. Higher end reels will support BOTH ends of the main gear and pinion, and typically hold up a lot longer. Add in either worm gear or offset cam oscillation, and you'll see why spinning reels have so many bearings. Many higher end add in two bearings to support the spool on the shaft for better alignment and even payout when a fish is taking drag.