J Francho

Try it again with fresh batteries. If it is still off, toss it and get a good spring scale like a Chatillon. No batteries to go bad, and IGFA approved.

It isn't. Kayakers have been installing them with Lexcell or Marine Goop like this with no issues for years, but I'm not sure if it works on a glass hull. Temp sensor definitely won't work.

I use a leader sometimes, mostly for abrasion issues or if I'm fishing snaggy water, and need to break off the bait easily with out spooking fish. If you're not dealing with that, and don't think you are missing bites, then don't change anything.

Comparatively slow? Really? Do the math. My spinning reel does 32 IPT. I can probably rip off 6-8 turns per second when fighting a fish. That's 192 to 256" per second. If the circumference of the line roller is 3/4" then that means the it is spinning at 256 to 340 revolutions per second, or 15 to 20K rpm. Not slow at all. Slower than a spool on a baitcaster, but still more speed than you think. Obviously, bearings would not improve a spinning reel's casting potential. But they affect it's retrieve, durability, and the perceived torque required to operate it.

Could be one, could be six. Some lakes, it's a timing thing, you can wait the fish out, or spot hop to find active fish. I usually have about three spots, though in general.

The Sebile Proppler Buzz, like most other Sebile products, is unique and retailes for $17.49. I'm going to defer on the particular bait to someone that has used it, but to say it is the same as any other buzzbait as a little off the mark. I mean, they float for goodness sake! Personally, Cavitrons have worked fine for me.

My ex.

You quoted a pro, and agreed "somewhat" to use your terms. Two bait makers offered their viewpoints and information. No reason to get huffy. Leave it at that. Not everything has to be a debate. There can be some learning, too.

Many anglers, myself included, turn the unit OFF before entering shallow water to fish. It's just one of the many negative cues we give off. Back to the OP. I'm not sure that unit has an "auto gain" setting, but Sensitivity should be to a point where the clutter on the screen just disappears, can be as low as 3 on some places, and almost max in others. All waters are different, and suspended particles do make a difference. Here's a few other things you can do to your HB to make it "tell the truth" a little better. Anything with Fish ID+ on it, turn off. turn Bottom Lock on. Max your Chart Speed out. Make sure the Real Time Scanner (RTS Window) is set to Wide. Learn how to watch this. You'll learn to see fish arches before they're completed on the screen. If you fish vertically, you'll even be able to see your bait and the fish take it. Beam Select, go with 200 if you are looking for structure, and 83 if you are shallow (4-10') and looking for fish. For whatever reason, Mixed Mode works well in general fishing depths from 5-20' in brown or green algae colored water. Set your Surface Clutter to eliminate the red at the top of the graph. Leave your depth lines on. Depending on the suspended junk in the water, leave your Noise Filter on Low, but turn it up if weird fuzz shows up. My last bit of advice, put the unit in demo mode, and sit with the manual, going through each setting to see what it does. Takes an hour or two, but well worth your time.

I pay for that kind of pain. Hot wax on the unibrow after the haircut. Actually doesn't hurt that much. Way better than plucking - lasts about 6 weeks.

I have two Lowrance, an HB, two Garnins, and an Eagle unit. They are all dual beam (83/200) and all make some click. Some of these units are more than 10 years old. They've always clicked. Can't say about the new Lowrance Structure Scan (SI/DI) or HD 2D since I haven't installed it yet.

Frequency is different than ping rate, buddy.

It's an electronic click. There has to be something sent, or there's no way to get a return. Mine clicks. Doesn't really bother me, and I rarely hear it.

You could do that on LSC. Might have to poke around some beds.

Mid 80 percentile is gonna be tough to top. I'm looking at a 7 lb. + smallmouth, or a 9.5 lb. largemouth.

If it's shot, you might as well order a better bearing - they're often less expensive than OEM.

Turn on the radio.

http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/dropshot-bedding-bass.html

Line roller bearing moves decent speed and great pressure. This bearing is the most neglected part in most rod boxes. Another point....ceramic hybrid bearings with dry lube work great in sub zero temperatures.

My personal best NY state fish came fishing all the way back to the boat. I was fishing a weed edge with a 10" t-rig worm at about 8 FOW, that suddenly drops off to 30-ish FOW. A few times, I opened the spool, and let payed out enough line to fish down the bluff. The second or third time - and I didn't do this in consecutive casts, just randomly threw in a change up - I felt something mushy. Set the hook, and reeled in what felt like an old boot, but it happened to be a 7lb. + largemouth. This got me fishing in "reverse," or "uphill" more often.

Lots of votes, let's see some more!

C'mon guys, keep the votes coming - they're private, so don't be shy!

Flooger Knuckle Buster.

I have my preferences, but what about your? You can choose more than one! For you leader guys, check off what you use as mainline.

Yeah, having Manning as your guy must be a real bummer, LOL.