J Francho

If you're ever stuck in Rochester and want some Italian, go to Pasta Villa on East Ridge Rd in Irondequoit. It's about a genuine as you can get. Cadillacs outnumber normal civilian cars 10:1 in the parking lot. They all know what "gabba-goll" is.

LOL!!! http://www.grandforksherald.com/event/article/id/231419/

It's got teeth, don't lip them.

Can't wait for mine!

Stretch 40

The Picasso rig has a resin head and works great with light baits.

You said it better than any of so far, lol.

This picture should help:

I generally respect Mike, and his opinions are usually spot on, but... This specifically is the statement I totally disagree with. You can have all facets of tapers, fast, moderate, slow while having the same tip and butt diameter. In fact, I'd suggest that this measurement has more to do with power.

I agree it's relative term. But a rod's taper is how you achieve the action. The two terms are interchangeable as far as I am concerned. If a rod has a fast taper, meaning it the diameter get smaller toward the tip is faster than another rod, then the action will also be faster than that rod. I also thing that most apply these relative measurements to the tip only, and ignore the middle, transition zone. This is where a really good quality rod steps into the light - a smooth transition from tip bend to power in the butt. To answer your question in a general sense, a faster taper or action will initially only flex at the top 1/4 of the blank, whereas a slower action or taper might flex 1/2 way down the rod before transitioning to that butt end, fighting power from the rod. 90% of bass fishing can be covered with a medium power, fast action rod or a medium heavy, fast action rod. The line and bait ratings will determine what you need.

Wind will kill you every time.....

Glad that dumb video of me helped someone! LOL. Anytime.

I was gonna ask if you were using spinning....use your index finger on the hand that holds the rod to feather the line, or you can do what I do, and cup your reeling hand over the line as it flows off the reel. You'd have to look at the video to really get what I'm doing. Watch the first few seconds over and over. You'll see that I manually flip the bail and seat the line in the roller guide. This seems detailed, but it's much better technique - no more breakoffs or bail flipping on the hookset when a fish bites as soon as your bait lands.

Are you chucking it overhand? You kind of want to side arm sling it, and feather the spool on entry, like a spinnerbait, so its ready to run back toward you as soon as it hits the water. You are sort of hooking back in to the water. Don't leave any slack line if you are counting it down a bit either. That's a sure fire way to get tangled. Finally, make sure baits are JUST far enough apart to not get tangled with each other.

You really haven't lived life to it's fullest until you've caught a shopping cart in current!

Yes you can, but remember, I copyrighted Texas about 40 posts ago.

I'm guessing TNK was making a point about not sending his money to a communist country, and quality. Just a guess - and remember, let's keep the politics out of it, and leave it at that.

HB P'max 170 is a great unit.

10 and 12# Trilene 100% are great general use lines for cranking.

Anacondas on the Owner weighted hook with the centering pin.

I'm lost... Anyway, if you're having problems tying a compact Alberto then pick one line or the other. Personally, it's never been an issue for me.

Toray makes the BPS XPS private label lines.

I concur, GPS is higher on my list of must haves than color. Either unit, chrome, those Elite 4 heads are amazing.

Buy $40 worth of jigs before you buy that thing.

GPS first.