Stasher1

Personally, I'd spool it with something smooth casting but inexpensive like Trilene XL in 12#. You're going to have several backlashes and may wind up cutting out whatever line you put on there to start with, so why waste the extra money on Yo-Zuri? When you get the hang of casting with your new reel, switch to something else if you feel the need.

As had been posted before, the scale only measures in 1 lb. increments. That may not be a big deal for some folks, but for me it was a deal breaker.

As much as I hate to resurrect a long-dead thread, has anybody here actually tried these rods yet? I did a quick search and this is the only thread that came up.

This wouldn't happen to be the lower lake at Tribble, would it?

It looks like a good deal, but the scale only measures in 1 lb increments.

While I can't tell you which reel to get, I can tell you which one NOT to buy. Don't bother with the Daiwa Megaforce. A quick search for "Megaforce" will give you all info you need.

It's funny you should ask this question. I've been wondering the same thing for a while now.

WestMarine.com has their Crucials on clearance. Some of them are less than $100.

I've got a 6'6" Ugly Stik Lite that I keep just for throwing crankbaits. It feels like a wet noodle after using higher-end rods, but it's fine for treble hook lures. The Lite is a good bit stiffer than the "standard" Ugly Stik. They run about $10 more than the "standard", but it's worth it.

I found a new Sahara 4000FB in the "Flea Market", so that's what I'll be using once it arrives and I find a rod to put it on. I really prefer a 6'6" rod over a 7'0", especially in the kayak, so it'll be a 6'6" MH something. I noticed BPS offers a "Woo Daves" model Extreme in 6'6" MH, so that's a definite possibility. I've got three Extremes already, and they're actually decent rods for the money.

I haven't decided on a rod yet. It'll probably be a 6'6" MH something. I've got a Symetre 2500 on a 6'6" Med. Crucial and a Sahara 2500 on a 6'8" ML BPS Extreme "Woo Daves" drop-shot rod. Neither setup is really suitable for yanking large bass out of heavy vegetation...although it doesn't keep me from trying anyway. I've found some really good deals on last year's Sahara in either 2500 or 4000, and I have some $$$ sitting in my Paypal account that I need to get rid of. So, I fgured I'd pick one up to mount on a dedicated frog/jig rod. What I'm having trouble with is the weight difference between the two (9.7 - 12.1) vs. the max drag difference (11 lb - 17 lb). Is the difference in weight worth it for the stronger drag?

I'm looking for a new spinning reel for jigs and soft plastic frogs in heavy vegetation. Before somebody suggests a new baitcaster, I've got plenty of baitcasters, but I've found lately that I just prefer spinning reels.

I think anything larger than 3/0 would be too large and heavy for a Trick Worm. I use 3/0 wide gap for just about everything except frogs and Rage Tail Shads.

Not true. http://fish.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/customer_service0/Warrenty_Services.html

The BPS Extremes are decent rods (I have three) but are not as sensitive as the Crucial. Not even close. I have a 6'8" ML Extreme "Woo Daves" spinning rod paired with a Shimano Sahara 2500 and a 6'6" M Crucial paired with a Shimano Symetre 2500. I use both on a regular basis, and the difference in sensitivity between the two is like night and day.

I have the Shimano Symetre 2500 and the Sahara 2500 and they're both excellent reels. They're both smooth, reliable reels and I'm sure there are enough differences between the two to justify the difference in price, but they are very similar in performance and feel. If I had to buy a $50 spinning reel today, it would most likely be another Sahara.

I don't where you are in Atl., but the Sports Authority next to the Northlake Mall had a couple Daiwa Regal 1000's on clearance last time I was there. They had them marked down to $29.97 with an additional 30% off. That's a great deal on a very nice little reel.

I think it depends on the rivets you're using. If the paddle holders came with standard aluminum pop rivets, toss 'em in the trash and invest in a couple packs of these from kayakfishinggear.com They hold very well in plastic hulls, and on a low/no stress item like a paddle holder they'll be more than adequate.

I can offer a bit of advice on this subject. When paddling a canoe solo or with a small child, turn it around and sit in the bow seat. It moves your weight more towards the center of the boat and will help keep the bow in the water. I know this advice comes too late to save your rod/reel, but give it a try next time you're out. Oh, don't forget to tether your rod/reel to the boat, along with any accessories you don't want to lose. Again, too late to help but figured I'd toss it out there anyway.

I haven't even gone thru all of the stuff I bought during last year's sales. :-[ It won't keep me from stocking up on even more useless crap, though.

If they're working for you, why change?

I can cast with either hand, but I always wind up with the rod in my left hand, reeling with my right. Baitcaster or spinning, it doesn't matter.

For about the same price as stainless screws, nuts, and a tube of silicone you can buy a pop riveter (AKA blind rivet gun) from Lowe's, Ace, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, etc.

How small of a car are you driving? My commuter car is a Hyundai Accent 2dr and I manage to fit my 6'6" and 6'8" one-piece spinning rigs in there along with my tackle bag, PFD, kayak dash, paddle, etc.

I'm steadily reducing the amount of unecessary crap I bring with me in the kayak. Right now it's a soft bag with four Plano 3600 cases and about 10 bags of soft plastics. I'm looking at cutting that in half over the next couple months. I'm getting tired of having a big tackle bag between my knees all day. It'll make a huge cockpit seem cramped after a little while. Anyway, sorry for the hijack. Carry on. you just used cockpit and hijack in the same post...dude the governments gonna be all over you ;D Good thing I didn't mis-spell Plano. ;D