islandbass

At this price point the Clarus is a tough competitor. I have a 2-piece casting 6'6" rod and it is one of my "trunk" rods. Sufficiently sensitive and I got it for $45 when sportsmans was clearing things out. I also have a Spinning Compre and a Casting Crucial. The bang for the buck Shimano offers is incredible.

I would also recommend the Albright. It is suited for lines of varying diameters and I think your case fits that bill. I have used a braid (main) to mono leader with this knot fishing for species that would make the average bass seem small and it has never failed. With that said, like any other knot, it must be tied correctly to be effective. Sorry about losing those fish.

Thanks! I'd be mighty surprised if you still had them. Your offer is absolutely incredible. 8-)

I've heard that the VMC EWG hooks are terrible, but I hope you aren't talking about the trebles because this is the only brand I put on my crankbaits. They seem to be sharp, but I've had issues with it bending once in a while. Lucky Crafts if I recall also use VMC trebles as well as many other brands of crankbaits. x2. Their trebles are excellent and are the best bang for the buck. They sell 25 packs for about $5. That CAN'T be beat by anyone. Good enough for Rapala, good enough for me (trebles).

Does the price include shipping, and is there a receipt for warranty purposes? Thanks! Baitmonkey's rattlin' his cage. ;D

I have used the ECs for like small trout and pan fish, but I have seen a few hooks break. Is there a metallurgist among us that could really give us the skinny in comparing these hooks (owner, gammy, mustad, etc.)? That would be very interesting. Compare a) Corrosion Resistance Bending Tolerance (ie, how much force the hook can withstand before bending) c) Hook Points I would if I knew how.

The "0" is pronounced phontetically like the word ought. A 2/0 hook is pronounced therefore as a two-ought hook. 4/0 is four-ought. I use octos in my salmon fishing. I'd use them in a pinch for wacky or drop shot rigs if I had to. I agree with crestliner on the hookset. As for gut hooking, I have never experienced it in my fishing but it is quite possible as it is with other hooks.

That break in period is the time period I dubbed the time it takes for the wany coat that's on to wear off. I too used to "hate" that sound until I started hooking into some strong fish. Then that noise became music to my ears. As for life span, it's as dodge said. So long as the line doesn't show signs of wear, it is good to go. Some braid I have is going on its 3rd year. Oh yeah... The braid will eventually lose its color. Don't let it bother you. I don't, and I don't care to recolor it either.

You should obtain a copy of the schematic just to be sure. I used to have it before I had a major file loss. Reel Mech might know where to download a copy of it.

The short answer is no. Man that has got to be terrible, but in the end all birdsnests are angler induced, so the reel can't be blamed... And that can be irksome.

I take it you read my post. I will guess 50/50 between the two. Good luck! Go Compre!!! Interesting name. "I bought," in Spanish. What's up with that, Shimano? A little Daiwa paralleling? ;D Sol = Sun Tierra = Earth Viento = Wind Fuego = Fire Luna = Moon

Here is a link to the thread where I posted it: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1233354724/4#4 Refer to the 4th reply. 8-)

Bassmajor, That is pretty sweet. When I designed my quiver, I originally wanted it mounted on my back, but I quickly learned that through brush, ideal mobility was limited to open areas. As a result, I had to forego my shoulder straps. It is now hand-held and I can hold three rods all at once with one hand. @D16 - Compres are one of the best deals out there, and I would take it over the MOJO. The mojo's warranty, if it is important to you, is finite. The compre's is for life. In addition, it is an excellent rod. I have an MH spinning that serves as my all around spinning. I used it today and nailed a smallie during lunch break.

x2. I don't like fishing with my reels when they are not at optimum capacity. The only thing I would add applies to those who target larger species that can spool a 200 sized reel such as a steelhead or salmon. Some can spool a 200 sized reel even when it is at full capacity, and I have lived to tell the tale. If they can do that to a full spool, you're only setting yourself up to fail with a reel whose spool is low on line. I recall the experience. I was really starting to get nervous when I started seeing the holes in the wiffle spool of my Curado 201 DHSV. Sad, but true...(metallica playing in the background).

I'm not telling anyone how well it works because (as mentioned), I haven't tried it. But I have taken one of these reels apart, and I can tell you that it is NOT anything like the Shimano DC system. It is a 9-arm centrifugally based system that is configured a little differently than any other I'd seen before. It looked like the arms are intended to move more dramatically based on the acceleration/decelleration of the spool. I thought, "Hmmm, interesting". I was told (by someone I believe) that KVD has been using a reel with this system for a while and he likes it better than the Tour Edition he had been using. I'm not trying to sell anyone on it. Just passing on what I know/heard. I don't plan on getting one for myself. I aprreciate the update. Glad to hear that it is not similar. Fresh ideas are a good thing. 8-)

I ain't buyin' into that. I would be interested to see how many are going to "bite". My best guess is that it would be something similar to shimano's digital control technology as already mentioned.

Abrasion Resistance and Thin Diameter are two traits that are a bit opposed to each other. The way a mono is made "tougher" for the same strength is to usually increase its diameter for a pure single filiament line. I am excluding copolymers. I think with the exception of abrasion resistance Trilene XL, Sufix Elite, and Stren Magnathin fit your bill. Sufix of the three, resists memory the best.

I forgot to mention that I wear safety glasses whenever I do this without fail. It sucks to get pricked in the finger, but I imagine it would be far worse to get hooked in the eye. Don't know if the pics are doctored, but it will get the point across about the prudence of wearing glasses. OUCH!

It depends on the split ring pliers. They are not equal. For example my Rapala split ring pliers just won't do smaller size 1 or 2 split rings without it being a PITA or ruining the split ring. It does work well with size 3 and up. Choose a pair of split ring pliers suited size of the split rings and you will fare much better.

The weights are probably falling off during the fight. I do not think they are taken by the fish. The next time you drop shot, tie an overhand knot (or two) with the extra tag after you clipped on your weight. Doing this should prevent the weight for slipping off of the line. I do this when I think the clip might slip through the line. Now after fishing this way, if the weights indeed are gone, then I would say you have lead craving bass. ;D

If you have to travel through bush and brush, then whatever you plan to devise ought to completely protect the blank, JMHO. I too use a backpack but have a homemade quiver to hold my rods. Sometimes, if I am using my 2-piece rods, I will keep them in the main pouch of the pack in the center, held up by the zippers without the reel attached and this is when I know there won't be anything it can bump into.

Get yourself some floating rapala minnows, rattlin' raps, and some DT4s. For crankbaits that already have a split ring, you will not need the use of a snap or a loop knot. Just tie your knot to the split ring. For crankbaits that have no snap or split ring, you could add a duo-lock snap or use the Rapala loop knot. There is no need for a swivel or easy way to directly add a swivel to crankbaits. It would behoove you to learn the Rapala Loop knot. That way, if you plum run out of the snaps or split rings, you can still fish with your crankbaits that don't have either. Floating minnows that I have bought in the past have never come with a split ring or snap. I think the DT series crankbaits come with split rings, but don't hold me to that. What line do you plan to use?

IMHO, I think it is aesthetics. Any gain in overall weight loss for the rod and therefore making for a more sensitive rod is perhaps negligible.

Brown's Point - Stingy This Evening 08-27-09 6:30 PM - Arrival Got there this evening at 6:30 PM and started fishing to the right of the lighthouse. Fishing was very slow. No rolling, no jumping, no schools. 7:25 PM With everyone fishing with the monotony of spinning LP record, I was debating if I was should to yank back and yell, "Got one!" to wake everyone up. However before I could make the yank for the prank, bam! My rod got tugged down. Got a hit. This was one strange salmon. It kept heading toward the shore after the take. Luckily my Curado DHSV was up to the task of collecting all the slack. I landed him two minutes later and marked my CRC. 8:15 PM A school pinks swims by, but just out of range. 8:30 PM Headed home. It was a stingy day. My salmon was the only one I saw hooked and/or landed in this two hour time period. Tdown: Gear: 8'6" Lamiglas NW Special, Curado DHSV, 8# Red Spiderwire mono Conditions: Sunny, 80s

What type of wood is used? Looks like D answered quite well. I have used basswood and balsa so far. I plan to try both cedar and pine some time soon.