islandbass

First off, you are not backwards. By default it should be this way. But this is not set in stone. There are many right-handed folks that prefer RH retrieve, but I prefer LH retrieve. A right-handed reel is called that because the right hand turns the crank, not because it is for use by anglers you have a right-hand dominance. Hand dominance plays no part in that description. The bottomline is this: Use whatever reel is most comfortable. If you get funny looks for using LH reels, give a funny look back. ;D

Well said. I couldn't agree more. The frequency of using said rod determines accuracy. Rod length can make certain targets easier to hit which does play a minor role in accuracy, but it still remains in the angler's abilities moreso than the length of the rod.

Don't take this the wrong way, but I think you sold her short by telling her it's complicated to learn how to use a baitcaster. In reality it really isn't, especially if you have someone to teach you. Since she already knows how to use a spincast reel, this is going to be an even easier transition for her, because the mechanics of the casts for both are similar. Properly set the reel to the weight and hand her the setup and instruct her on what the thumb does before, during and after the cast and tell her that no matter what happens, she needs to have her thumb stop the spool from spinning before the lure hits anything, be it the water, the ground, or a shrub. People get that, even little kids. With a properly set reel, that is all a beginner needs to know. I'm with Bigtimfish. I have a buddy who I told the exact same thing and he learned within three casts, and he never even knew what a baitcaster was. I also told him it was the easiest reel to use (confidence booster). Over a 4 hour period of fishing, he only backlashed once. That reel looks pretty slick for a spincaster but I'd step her up to a casting reel now. 8-) Good luck with the teaching. You both have an excuse, I mean reason to add a new casting reel to the arsenal.

Looks like you got it right. I only wrote that because I learned the hard way when I first used braid. Imagine watching a big bass flare its mouth open and you see your crankbait reverse direction from floating up (paused) to moving into the bass's mouth. Right when it started closing its mouth I pulled back and wound up pulling the bait out of its mouth before the mouth could close. We stared at each other for what seemed like an eternity as the crankbait zipped past my ear before she nonchalantly swam back under the dock. I found out what zero stretch really means. ;D

I can't paint worth a darn, but since you're custom painting, I tried this one on a homemade crank. The smallies seemed to like it. One person thought Citrus Pirahna was a fitting name. This guy seemed to like it.

Darn! You took the bait monkey answer away. ;D I would choose the one that fits my hand better, if you're only targetting bass. If I were to target larger species, I'd choose the 200. 12# yozuri kicks butt, and I use it, but there are lines that cast a little better unaided. As a shorebound angler myself, when conditions dictate much longer casts, I will opt for a different line.

If that is your worry, you don't really have one. The line diameters are irrelevant. However, you might need to make an adjustment to your hook set for your crankbait set up. Braid's near zero stretch can cause an angler first dealing with braid's near zero stretch to really learn what near zero stretch really means. Ensure that your trebles are ultra sharp such that the fish impale themselves on the trebles. You do not need to really "set the hook". The fish bite and run off with the crankbait and the make the braid get taut as the swim off. Perhaps next is a little flick of the wrist from you and a move back to add a little more tension on the line and it's a done deal.

Sorry you had a bad experience with this line. Mine has been the exact opposite. I have landed a 20" trout just a couple weeks ago and countless other fish. It also takes the abuse of being one of my "trunk" rods so I think it gets a decent amount of bangining and vibrating around. Sometimes I wonder if there are people out there that damage the rod in the stores and then we buy them and we wind up breaking because of the damage that was already done before we touched them. I was at a walmart handling a fenwick. All I did was wiggle the rod and it snapped about 4" from the top. I think someone abused it beforehand. It fought like the Dickens, easily handled on a Medium Action Casting Clarus. BTW, How is the cabela's Fish Eagle 2 rod. They seem to be a decent value.

My short answer is no. I can see the plausibility but we aren't dealing with golf clubs where such a strategy could be beneficial. Company A makes a rod that I like for application A and their crankbait rods are solely made with e glass. Well, I might want to have a rod that has a blend of graphite and glass so my need and want in a crankbait ride cannot be met by them. Same with reels. Until Shimano comes up with a left handed 5.x:1 curado, I have to look elsewhere. I think I would have a hard time find one company to be a panacea for all of my fishing needs and others would probably concur. It would be nice to have them all come from one source, but it isn't going to happen for me any time soon.

Woh. Is anyone else infatuated? Wallet's starting to itch.

So why don't you use both? There are a number of possible configurations. 1) Mono main line, braid on top as a leader. You'll get your give and if you're fishing super heavy cover, you braid leader will cut through the junk. A long enough leader might able enhance end of the line feedback to you. 2) Braid main line, mono or fluro as leader - You'll also get your give (stretch) and the exceptional feedback that braid does so well. While the latter might be expensive upfront, using a long enough leader in a way that you don't get to the braid will mean that you probably won't have to replace the braid unless somehow it receives wear and tear. 3) The bait monkey solution - Get yourself a second reel. ;D

Is this common? I've been thinking about this quite a bit as I think towards getting my first baitcaster. It's totally what I'm planning on doing. I'm right handed, but somewhat ambidextrous and prefer to do some things with my left hand - reeling is one of them. While there are exceptions like Kelly J, I will wager a floating Rapala minnow that you will prefer a casting reel with a left hand retrieve, especially if you're already accustomed to having your spinning reels configured this way. Definitely try both, but like a am wagering, you will strongly prefer left hand retrieve. My psychic told me. ;D

I'd reconsider looking at the crucial line again. As for the confusion, there are two basic spinning types: Their drop shot spinning rods, which have split grips and their regular spinning rods which have full cork grips. Their spinning rods for crankbaits also sport full grips I think. However, since you mentioned that you fish mostly senkos but still want an "all arounder," I believe that you will want to go with this Crucial model: CRS66MH - This is a spinning rod that is 6'6" with a medium heavy power and a fast action. Shimano says it is suitable for Soft jerkbaits, plastic worms and grubs, Split shot, light Carolina rigs, tubes, Texas rigs and Senkos® and small jigs. I that is as all around as you can get.

I don't think you have to worry that much. Water can seep in but all you have to do is open up the reel to double check. If there is water, take a towal and dab out the little bit of water you might find.

I am not sure I understand your question, completely, but if I do, I don't think that the depth of the crankbait should make a difference in your "hook set" which then should suggest that neither should the rod's action if you are already accustomed to the action of your rod. It would imply that you have a different hook set for that was dependent on your depth. In other words, why would you set the hook differently if the bait was at 6-10' vs. being 20' plus? Either scenario, the use of sharp hooks and reeling up the slack to add tension to the line plus making the fish impale themselves should make the depth of the lure and fish a irrelevant or a non-issue. Well, for me, at least. When I have a strike with a crankbait, I ensure I have sharp hooks and let them do the work. Basically, I don't do much more that making the line taut by reeling up the slack and pulling/sweeping back just a little, somewhat like a drop shot hook set.

Add to your research and personal knowledge by taking advantage of the search funtion. for red and blood. It should lead to to many a thread related to your inquiry.

Right on! Wow! Great minds think alike! I made one a while back and I call it a rod quiver. My original intention was to have it function like a backpack and hence the name quiver, but I quickly learned that walking through the brush was not easy with one-piece rods so it would be better to hold them in one hand. To add more photos, simply paste in the IMG text from your photo storage place. For me, it is photobucket. I used a triangle so that I could hold three rods, but other shapes could be used to accomodate more rods. I lined my grooves with felt and use industrial strength velcro as home depot calls it to secure the rods to the quiver. They have not ever opened up, even when running.

Beeeauuteefull! So when are you giving painting classes? ;D They look too nice to fish. Those are what I call IDIAI baits.

I just enjoy it when I see memories made. Great report and pics. Kudos to your grandson. 8-)

Lamiglas has had a rod series at around the $100 price point for a very long time. It is their competitor series, and they are fine rods. It seems they're parallelling St. Croix by offering a line of rods at a price close to their Competitor line but with split grips. Only speaking from an aesthetics POV. I have no idea about what graphite is used, but I have been tempted to ask at their forum.

Looks like I might have to drop by Lamiglas HQ when I get the chance. This price point is about where their competitor series was and might still be. From the looks of it, it appears that they might be parallel St. Croix by making an offering of value rods with split (these new ones) and full grip (The Competitor Series). Yay, Lamiglas!

Shark Bait Scores Again My daughter and I had another face off today. She started with a spinnerbait and I with my first homemade crankbait. After no fish through the first 15 minutes, I switched to my drop shot rig and casted it out with a 3 Senko, wacky rigged. As soon as my weight reaches bottom, my daughter snags her lure in the riprap and is unable to free it. She hands me her rod and takes mine and during the exchange I can't help to think a smallie is going to nail the Senko. I manage to free it after a few good tugs and my daughter says, I got one! as she started reeling up the line. It was probably about 10 long, no big deal, but it also meant one to zero, and the zero was mine. We moved to another spot. She rakes in another one with a locally made French fry type of bait. This is her second bass of the day. She still doesn't want to lip them with her thumb. Finally, I connected with my drop shot rig about five minutes later, with a teeny-weenie 7 (shucks) but at least I'm on the scoreboard. At the third spot, my daughter hooks into a big one that took her rod and reel to task. Unfortunately, it came unbuttoned after a very good fight. I picked my rig with the shark bait crankbait and after a few fruitless casts into the wind, I made one into the wind and worked a section between where the sunlight and shadow met. When the crankbait got into my visual range, I paused it and a smallie came up from the unseen, latched onto the back treble and headed back down. It was a decent strike. The way it swam back down made it seem like either it didn't know it was hooked or it didn't care. I suppose until its swim back down and my retrieving made the line taut. After that, it got feverishly upset and displayed its feisty side. As feisty as it fought, it was no match for my gear and it was quickly brought in. Another noteworthy entry for my fishing journal. Shark bait, as I call my weird looking crankbait, has appeal to both trout and bass. She decided to call it quits for the day to munch on some snacks and read her book so the battle officially ended in a tie. I decide to continue fishing for just a wee bit and brought up another smallmouth. After that, we packed up and headed home. The only thing left to say was best said by Ice Cube: Today was a good day. -ib

It seems odd but yes, size 2 and not 2/0. It took me a while to get over that. ;D However, this is a starting point, not a law. If you feel more comfortable using a larger hook, no one is going to stop you.

Wees, The last time I saw the Mags at that same $49 price, it was December. Now that it is July, I am willing to bet the sale appears to be about every 6 months.

Bait Monkey Point 1: I already love Curados Bait Monkey Point 2: Purple is my favorite color Ohhhh boy. Where does one buy a purple people eater? Seriously, I want to know. I imagine it might look good on a Mojo but a reel in that class probably deserves something the bait monkey would approve. ;D