islandbass

Unless you get to really light lures, there shouldn’t be any true limits to your reel for most bass fishing applications. Congrats and have fun with it.

I always check the internals and wipe down any drops that might have gotten. Misty conditions are probably nothing to worry about. If you live where I do that’s nearly a given in the fall and winter. Pretty much all you need to do unless you know full well water got in to warrant more clean up and maintenance. Also, if this were a salt water outing, definite clean up.

Thanks so much! I almost wished I hadn't asked. You have given the baitmonkey ammo and more weight against me in court and have brought me closer to the dark side. ?

Congrats on both the catches and acquisitions! Is it too early to say, but can you comment on their sensitivity versus you previous gear? Is GLX beyond them in sensitivity and if so, by how much? A lot? A little? Thanks.

I’m sure theyll take care of you even if it appears to be fed ex’s error. Im actually expecting something overnight from fed ex today and fortunately, it’s a wall template for a microwave oven and not a fishing rod. Imagine if they damaged that, lol. As fishing “compensation,” you will be rewarded with a successful first outing with your new rod. ?

Sorry to hear that, must be painful ? . From the way I see it taped, it appears fed ex did the damage and used tape to bandage it, and from the bend in the tube, the rod probably was already broken before the blithering oaf who broke it even grabbed the tape dispenser. What is your recourse?

I never heard of it until now, so I looked it up. I can’t believe it’s that easy to tie.

Find a treble hook chart at any of the online tackle place that has the hooks drawn to exact size. That is the best way. Photos can be misleading. As a best guess the smaller cb probably has size 6 trebles and the bigger cb probably size 4. One size of Treble bonnets will probably fit both.

Indeed. I did mine (made 3 flatsiders) from scratch before I remembered I could have bought them online lol. Still can’t paint a darn. Hopefully i I posted the pic corrected. The crankbait with the red chevrons caught a 20+” rainbow trout. The teetch are are reminiscent of WWII fighter jets and my trademark. ? The bass one I haven’t really fished with because I’m too chicken to lose it. The black top silver belly minnow went 2 for 3 on its first time out, in the rain. I might make a few over the upcoming winter break. They’re all made through wire vs screw eyes on because they’re balsa baits.

Looks custom built to me and reminiscent of the rapala and Bagley flat cranks and even a few I made. Sadly, I can construct them but can’t paint worth a dam (intentionally misspelled,lol).

I have a symmetre and we all know how old they are and I’ve not experienced this scuffing sound. I’ve tried the lesser models including the Sedona and I have never heard that sound either. If I did and I didn’t like it, I’d return. I need to be happy with these types of purchases.

Indeed. I gambled on it because they didn’t have big game in the test I needed.

For the price it’s fine. I use it.

Imagine this is spoken with an old, seasoned beyond years angler who has forgotten more than we have ever learned, like Uncle Homer: ”Well, sonny, you’re both right and both wrong. A big question and I truly hate asking it, is a why in the heck does an angler have to “give up” using a certain reel type? Peer pressure? a false sense of self respect? Pride? Both reels are tools. Different tools for different jobs. Both reels can handle many techniques equally well. However, with that said, each reel type can excel over the other for some techniques. Point 1: let’s just try throwing a 1/8th oz rooster tail with a bait caster into a 40 mph wind. Good luck. Do you want to fish or spend all day untangling certain overrun? Point 2: try fishing 20# mono on a 2000 sized reel pitching a jig into some pads. Do you want to fish or spend all day trying line falling off the spool? Neither reel is more accurate than the other. Sorry, but that is solely dependent on the user. And that is the gosh ding dang truth. A true angler, while free to choose using only one reel type will, with the right attitude, choose the right tool for the job when it matters. In other words, they’ll use both. If both of you really wanted to improve your skills, you’d both want to master using both.”

That is not a bad option and one I’d consider. The other is if you have the time, to make a “case” out of pvc pipe with a diameter large enough to accommodate all 5 rods sin reels of course. You can even add foam padding. then find a way to secure to the other gear on top. Or you can buy a Plano rod case. Plano has made (I have one) a rod carrier that can easily accommodate all five rods and, you can even secure them with a pad or combination lock. It’s length is even adjustable and the interior is padded on the top and bottom. I bought mine maybe ten years ago but it is still functional. They look like this: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/plano-airliner-telescoping-rod-case?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzNKFosvM3QIVBVt-Ch1yiAPZEAYYAiABEgJQt_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds It really shouldn’t be too much of a challenge to find a way to secure it somewhere on top of your car whether by straps, rope, or duct tape, lol. Practical minds always find a practical way or solution.

There are too many ways and techniques to target them, and in that respect, it is not unlike bass fishing. since you mentioned targeting them in the river, in-line spinners (eg, Mepps), spoons, stickbaits like rapala minnows, salmon eggs, float and jig, just a plain jig (feathered jig, not like a “bass” jig) some thing known as Corkies, are a just a few things. I wouldn’t bother with any rod less than 8’6”, where generally longer is better if you can get away with it. The longer rod with help to increase casting and give you more line control. Spinners and and spoons and floats will usually use the river’s current to drive them. Corkies are bounced on the bottom also by the current. Eggs could be bounced on the bottom or offered on a float. Jigs can be worked in the current with a pull, fall, reel up the slack and realest. Jigs can also be offered on a float. Not all parts of the river are suited for all of these lure types. Therefore, some will fare better than others depending on that section of the river. Like bass fishing, there is no one rod that does it all. Rods can be specialized for a specific role just like bass rods. You can go the Walmart special route or go loomis. Yes, loomis makes these kinds of rods, and he probably made them well before he made a bass rod. He originally is from my neck of the woods, lol. If you plan on using your bass reels, you might need to consider good with at least 200 sized casting reels (300 and up are better suited) and 3000-4000 spinning. You can get away with a 2500 if you don’t lose a lot of line from snags and break offs. Start looking for you tube videos for this type of fishing in your area and the lures I mentioned. Good luck. You’re going to have a blast.

I actually made something for it but sadly, I've never had a chance to put it to use in the real world, and probably won't. I only used my waders for one type of fishing in November/December but the area has an open grassy area I can use to lay my rod down to make changes. It is basically a short piece of pvc pipe with a strap not unlike one you'd find on a messenger bag or a bag with a shoulder strap. You simply placed the rod butt into the pvc pipe. I also had a velcro strap on the shoulder strap that would allow you hold the rod on your chest hands free. You simply put it on just as if it were a shoulder strap bag. I used typical back pack things to make the strap adjustable and those same male/female snap joining thingies. When worn, the pvc pipe would naturally find its way to your side, pretty much out of your way. Gravity kept the rod butt in place (by your waist) and the Velcro secured the rod to the strap (roughly upper chest/shoulder area). It is simple and elementary but functional. Incidentally, you can use it to keep your hands free when walking around in areas not too bushy. If you devise something similar, I would only need to have a humble royalty for each unit made, lol.

Definitely a rock bass. They actually taste pretty darn good. Clean them, score the sides and pan fry. Yum, yum good! I wouldn’t tell you this if I didn’t try it myself. Don’t know about fungus though. Then again, people eat mushrooms, lol.

Glad you got to enjoy the ride while it lasted.

Sounds baby bear to me... just right.

Okay then, from one nerd to another, lol, (and I truly am one) heed WRB’s and other people’s advice and downsize to 30 or even 20# braid. Im willing to bet a floating rapala minnow that while the recommendation of going with a higher strength braid is sound, they were by default assuming a casting reel was to be used. Go back to the video(s) you watched and see if they’re using casting or spinning gear. The minnow is banking on the former. ?

Those look good!

@Gator in TN: I have not seen it personally with braid since I havent used braid on a spinning setup in years, but I do see it when I’m using fairly light and limp line. WRB has a point I didn’t explore, that the line might very well be too thick for a reel this size, and that could exacerbate your issue. I have to go through motions, lol 30 = 8 40 = 10 50 = 12 I know from experience that. Typical 2500 spool (Shimano in my case), can handle 10# mono but I know that is the upper end for this spool. I’ve spool 10# mono on this reel in the past and just this week had to put in 10# mono on it for my brother’s sake to help him land his first few fish with spinnerbaits. It was a compromise I had to make. He wasn’t ready to try my casting reel with 14# mono I use for spinnerbaits, lol. I wouldn’t even dare put 12# mono. The next time you’re out, keenly observe both the line tension and if the line diameter might be the culprit. Or better yet, tie on a 1/4 to 3/8 oz weight, go out in your yard and make a few casts right this very minute, lol. I need to know right now, as your issue has piqued my curiosity, and I’m dying to know, lol. Just kidding. You don’t have to do it now, but I am looking forward as to whether or not your issue gets resolved.

One of the traits of braid is that is is quite limp compared to other line types. Because of this, it is more important that the angler ensure that there is tension in the line BEFORE line retrieval begins. Allow me to define this “tension”. By it I don’t necessarily mean that the line has to be ultra taut, but that helps. This “tension” is sufficient if the line is straight and the there is NO excess line (ie, slack) on your side of the bail. If there is I can only guess the result will be what you’ve described. This is advice actually goes for any line type. The erroroneous result however is more prevalent with braid because it s so limp. Hope this will resolve your issue. Strive to be mindful of of limp line on your side of the bail before you start the retrieve.

As mentioned already I second the use of a higher # braid. Remember for its strength braid is very thin in diameter. I recommend a quality 30# braid. And guess what, it is the diameter you sought, of 8# test. 20# braid is hit and miss. Some anglers can handle it and most can’t. They’ll experience line dig up the yung yang because they don’t know how to deal with it nor have they taken the time to learn how to minimize it. So I can’t stress or recommend enough that you use 30# braid. You still might encounter line dig, but it will be less often. This is just my opinion, but if your cover allows you to get away with it, I’d be daring and go medium light in power. If not medium is okay. Be sure to post pics of your finesse set up.