Team9nine

I try to keep my answers “experience appropriate” - no sense going down that rabbit hole in this scenario... but “Thank You” - I think ?

I think it’s the sound of you reeling against the drag and creating lots of unnecessary line twist ? Take it easy, play the fish a little more, learn to pump and reel (not constantly trying to reel him in), or lock down the drag if you’re going to winch him in. Takes a little getting used to and figuring out “your style,” but you’ll get it figured out as you continue to fish and catch more. Edit: @A-Jay just beat me to the punch - lol. What he said

This ^^ It's a big issue in a couple specific parts of the country, but a decent bit of the research done on the matter largely refutes the theory of musky predation being a reason for declining bass populations. This would even be more likely the case in a river situation, where a larger number of preferred type prey species would be available (suckers, shad, and other large minnow species). However, this is not to be confused with bass location, which can definitely be affected and altered by strong pike and musky populations.

The original "book" and resarch on the subject, "Keeping Bass Alive" put out by B.A.S.S./ESPN along with Gene Gilliland and Hal Schramm, and still considered the best reference on the subject by many stated, "Anglers should observe a ratio of no more than 1 pound of bass per gallon of water." I'd start there as a minimum (10 gal. livewell), and preferably go larger if practical.

Never used that brand, but look at the far left (first) pic from your link (copied below)...the hook eye in particular. Look closely at your hooks where the metal eye ends and butts up against the top of the hook shank. In the picture, it looks like a possible gap and/or sharp edge. Light braid like the 15# you are using is very thin, and since braid is slick, it will slide around on the hook eye. If it slides into that gap (assuming there is one), that would explain the problems you’re experiencing.

As already mentioned, braid knot could be slipping. The other possibility is depending on the hook being used, the braid could be sliding around to where the hook eye gap meets the shank and either getting pulled through or getting cut. Won’t be an issue with high quality hooks, but you didn’t mention brand. Might be worth a look to see if you have any type of gap or sharp edge where the hook eye forms.

My advice is don’t worry about water temp. Other things like line type and weight will also affect how the bait reacts. Pitch it out and pull it down and see what it does - then simply adjust your weight accordingly to get your desired response.

Easiest thing to do is just use part of a Suspend Strip or Suspend Dot. With HJs it doesn't take much. Here's one I made perfectly neutral with just a part of a strip. Strips/Dots let you customize much easier including how much weight and exact location depending on your wants vs. using hooks or other changes.

Slinkey or No-Snagg (Lindy) sinkers...

I think all Norman’s are plastic these days. Look closely at the lip where it meets the body and you can tell they are all one piece molds (plastic), including the Professional Edge versions. Believe the Cabela’s/BPS writeup is a typo.

Hard to tell from the picture, but reminds me of a part of the old jiggerpole buzz lures like the Go-Devil

What @Tim Kelly said above. I set my H’bird casting ring at about 25’-35’ most days depending on presentation. In your example, if set to 60 ft, no matter which direction you approach your waypoint from, the ring will show 60 ft away/out from the waypoint when your current boat position icon reaches the ring.

You've hit much of the key factors. Now just add LiveScope and you'll be there

Might check Bass Pro/Cabela's and see if anything works for you: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/carpet-flooring#facet:&productBeginIndex:0&facetLimit:&orderBy:&pageView:grid&minPrice:&maxPrice:&pageSize:36&

No need to change a thing. I suppose an argument could be made that a larger hook has more area to help keep a fish pinned, but I’ve never had issues using stock size barbless, and if I had to guess, most people probably just take their existing hooks and pinch or shave down the barb when going that route instead of buying new hooks (i.e., by default, they are using the same hook size).

I try not to go overboard with trailers. Various Zoom Salty Chunks, Super Chunks and Paca Craws cover darn near everything in that size range for me.

Never been a fan of single tail grubs (curly tails), except for crappie. Instead, for winter fishing, the old standby (original) was the Mann’s Stingray Grub. It was a great cold water bait. The more modern version I use these days is the Poor Boy’s Erie Darter Jr.

I only peg when I have to, and then it is with a bobber stop to allow separation of the hook and weight after the hook set.

This ^^ Always a risk of breaking a rod or losing the fish when swinging them in. It takes some practice to get the feel and timing down, but it’s all just physics. There is also consideration for bait type, how well the fish is hooked, etc. I’ve never broken a bass rod doing it that I can remember, and I’ve done it for 30 years. I’m also a line grabber though, and don’t let the fish hit the floor/ground. If you want to see the efficiency that can be obtained with the technique by some, watch old highlights from the two MLF events back on Table Rock (I think) a couple years back. Pretty amazing. I think Martens won one and Wheeler the other.

Paddle - all day, every day I won't even buy a reel if it has the T-shape handle knob. Like you said, all personal preference...and I prefer not to own any reels with the T-shaped handle (I do, however, own a couple soft knob round handles like on my CI4s).

We discussed the study in length about 3 years ago when it first came out. You can find that thread here:

I’ve been using the YGK for nearly 2 years and can confirm that it sinks. Been a great finesse line:

Before or after he asked you to pay $20 to get the spreadsheet?? Don't care for him , myself, but I respect the data & effort

You can buy the original dial meters off eBay all day long for $15-$20. A much more inexpensive way to play if you wanted to.

I fish a pond like that regularly. Almost never see it without that blue color; sometimes nearly turquoise from how much they treat it. Junebug has been my best producing color in that pond, though others work, too. Bass tend to see black and blue as nearly the same color, so not certain there's anything there to really worry about in regards to what they actually see. No study I've seen has corroborated UV vision in adult bass, either.