Low_Budget_Hooker

That's cool, so they basically have a form to create a new registration. Thanks for looking that up.

How does this work? Considering building a novelty mini bass boat.

That's what Eric was saying, 12' is 12'. He said if you and I can fish in this 12' space with no issue, why couldn't we do it on that, just because it is all deck? The only answer I see is that the forward position will be slightly further back than on a jon to accomodate for the pointed bow of a bass boat as opposed to the squared bow of a jon.

A novelty boat that actual works, in other words.

That cat is a pretty wild design! Cat hulls are big for offshore here in New England in the last few years. The maina I keep my Whaler at is now a dealer for Glacier Bay Cats. I went for a cruise on one and was amazed. Till we turned, then I almost got spit overboard! Turning takes a little getting used to, wants to throw you as the boat does not pitch on a centerline. Amazing boats though, handle anything with ease. The purpose of this build would only be 1/2 function, 1/2 just to do. The "one of a kind factor", the make people look twice thing. I want you to look at it and see a basss boat but then have to look back and go wait a minute,...no motor,..and hey, no consoles,...and....man....that thing is short. And then you just gotta go get a closer look.

Cart- looks like we posted at the same time, oops. I totally plan on addressing the ballast as this is the main point that I also see as my main ro***. I have 3 batteries to work with so far. Keep in mind, 1 person boat. My buddy from Whaler says that by bringing foam up into the full gunnel, this will address some of the side tom side stability but itn will never be as stable as a real bass boat unless I go as heavy and wide. Basically the same thing you said. But he is pretty sure that it will be plenty stable enough for 1 person to fish but may take a few hull designs to get it right. Flaring out at the top of the gunnel may be neccessary, even if it is a 4-6 inch lip around the edge of the boat, again,..all foamed. This would be a tricky part of the build. I could do it but fomimg it with the proper amount of foam without seperating the 2 shells (topdeck/hull) may be tricky. Still thinking. He also suggests a "flood" ballast. Certain chambers that purposely flood for stability. This approach seems a bit too techy for me.

The elec outboards are A. big and heavy like a reg outboard (more big than heavy) B. BIIIG money!! Speed really isn't an issue for me, I was just thinking of the Varner guys should anyone want to replicate this when I'm done. A single 55 would do me fine but a 102 would do me better. Good thought though, you guys are a great help with the brainstorming.

This is a sticky in Resumes. By Marcia Ruben, https://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1143220947

Well sorta like those, you need wood like this to start Anyone know what it is ? Curly version of hardwoods. Maple, elm, cherry, walnut... Which one is that? The picture of the raw wood. How are "curly" versions formed, or are they thier own genus? OT-I have a black walnut tree on our property. Was told they were worth good money in the old days for rifle stocks. True?

Cart, see your avatar? take the motor off, level the floors where the consoles are and then shrink it to 12 ft. that's what I'm picturing.

Another benefit too is that if I use the same motor (family) for the front as I do in the rear, The foot pedal can toggle between both. 1 foot pedal, 2 switches, 2 harnesses, 2 motors. Make it "switchable" with a seperate foot toggle. Gotta see if they make a 100+ and a 30-40ish that both use same pedal. Harness can be different but pedal needs to be same.

Alternate propulsion-already there. Been looking at "bow thrusters" for large vessels (25'-unlimited) They come from 50-700 lbs of thrust and the biggest one is no larger than a lawnmower engine. The 250-300 lb thrust ones are the size of a large blender. Big $$ tho. Remeber the name thats goin' on it,...."Low Budget Baby bass Boats"

First off. NOT A JON!! BASS BOAT!! Just mini. Cart, Ballast is key, been pondering that one also. Adding another batt for a 24 v motor actually helps here. Boat will have 3 batts. This is the main weight other than the hull and will need to be positioned accordingly and foamed sections of hull will need to be taken into account with ballast placement. Would be a some trial and error here. No float tank at the house. Having the foam come and fill the gunnels (Boston Whaler trick) is also key to adding side to side stability.

Back to the original question. If you are "top decking" it and going on top of the seats, use the 3/4 inch. If you are looking for floors like in mine, use the cheaper 3/8 cdx. They actually mold slightly after a month or so of use and have a custum type fit to them Very Nice and allows for maximum leg room in a jon with 7" shorty pedestal while keeping center of gravity as low as possible. Also keeps middle section of boat wide open for use however you need it. A Cooler livewell on tourny day. Picnic with thye family, or just your tackle when fishing with a bud. Nice to have the versatility instead of closed up compartments IMO.

All I know is back in 1964 they were sold by Sears and registered as a Sears. Was Fisher around back that far ? Anyone who owns one of these spots the tell tale signs right away, the lipped seats, the stowage in the bow, the shape and line of the channel on the sides, Th lipped motor mount, the angle of the stern gussets,etc. These are definatley from the same pattern, if not factory. Heavy duty, no nonsense jons. Mine weighs more than any other 12 I've owned by far but the benefits are numerous!

Harness from foot control would run thru hull. Would be housed in th Piece of PVC glassed inside the hull to run all wires from bow to stern.

Motor would run off front bow mount foot pedal. Switchable. No consoles. All deck.

yes and no. The output you get more than justifies it. You have to power it with somthing. Any motor will be 1 battery so go big. One more battery is worth it for the power difference between 55 lb and 102 lb.

I would be building fresh. First making a hull mold. With that I can play with different top decks and configurations. A friend just stopped in and suggested an inboard electric for the rear. "switchable" from the bow to be controlled with the foot control for distance travel. Perhaps a 102 lb (or 2). A 30 lb bow mount would compliment this main power plant. That's pretty trick. 8-)

Back to the topic folks.

Very possible if it's a nice shallow "v" with smooth gel coat and 500 lbs less than the competition. That's what I'm thinking.

Just Keeping it real. don't wanna see it get off the hizzle. 8-) lmao

But let's tell him WHY not to be afraid. WHAT to expect. Now, refer back to speedbeads comment as to species. You don't want to "lip" the wrong species. Certain species, the largemouth being the icon of, are perfect for lipping!! Inside, along the rim, there are tiny little cartilage barbs that feel like velcro or sandpaper. Honestly,...this is the Largemouth's version of TEETH. You can rub your fingers all over this area and the worst thing that will happen is the skin gets chaffed as if you just rubbed it on sandpaper. IT'S NO DIFFERENT!. Now that's the inner lip wher you grab them as illustrated below. 2 things to be cautious of are... 1. The "crushers" down in the throat. The bass uses these to crush prey just before and as they pass it into the stomach chamber and these can give you a good squueze if you try chasing as gut hooked hook with your fingers instead of pliers. 2. The gills. The red, panels of flesh inside the gill plate are a vital part of the LM's anatomy. Be sure not to harm them in any way. Avoid all contact if possible. Look Here. Don't be afraid. do it once. take a good look in there and familiarize yourself with all the parts and their textures. From that point on, know that no matter how much bigger or smaller, all bass will be the same.

The only down side I see so far is that the boat I am picturing, is a 1 person craft.

Flat- Certain sections, fore and aft would be foamed but the process is slightly different from the way you described it. same concept though. Gears are grinding.