ptomacbass

Today when I got out on the water and went to start the engine, it sounded good for a second but didn't turn over. Turned the key again and it just grumbled and let out a little whiney noise. Never got it to start and it just kept growling more weakly when ever I turned the key. Whenever the motor would growl, the depthfinder would shut off. Both are connected to the cranking battery. I thought the cranking battery was fully charged but took it home to charge and it took a while. Any ideas of other possible culprits?

I'm by no means a pro, but sometimes if your steering wheel is turned all the way to one side, motor is trimmed a little too high, or some other simple thing is done, the motor may not start well. Also, older engines don't start very quickly in the cold, especially Johnsons. Try turning the key and pushing in (may only be a push prime for Johnsons) a couple times. Hold like this for 10 or so seconds and then ease down on the fast idle. Doing this it takes only 2 or 3 turns of the key to start my Johnson GT 150 in sub freezing weather. When did you last run the motor?

My 89' Ranger has a pedestal seat up front that I really want to remove because I always stand when fishing. The problem is, I cant get it off. Does anyone know how to remove these seats?

Yeah, it's a righty. If its not worth more than 300 I will just keep it and fish it. I just thought the limited edition status eould add to the resale.

I have one of the red Zillions new in box and was wondering what I could expect for an average resale. Ebay's completed listings dont help much.

Good idea, maybe electrical tape will work too.

I got a new glass rod and the way my reel sits on it, it seems to scrape the paint away more than my Daiwa rods. I may be overdoing this, but I just like to protect my stuff. What can I do to prevent this?

It's either an 88 or 89.

We need to replace the impeller and thermostats on the Johnson and the estimate from the shop is something like 400 dollars for both. I have watched some videos and read some stuff and both seem pretty easy to do. I was able to get off a trolling motor with seized bolts, fully install a new side imaging unit from start to finish, and take the prop off the outboard. Has anyone ever replaced an impeller and thermostats? Think a guy like me could do it considering what I have been able to do in the past?

I use the other transducer for readings from the trolling motor, though the old depthfinder broke, so I should probablly just remove the old transducer. I don't really care about on plane readings.

I have an older Ranger that has 3 steps on the transom. One of the steps has the livewell intakes and the plug with no room for a transducer. The second step looks like a good spot, but on the right hand side, there is already a transducer. Would it be possible for me to mount the new transducer inline with the outboard on the middle step and get good readings, or should I just remove the other transducer and place the new one where the old one was? The length between the second step and my lower unit is 9 inches when trimmed all the way down. The boat has no jackplate.

I just got a 798 ci si and I am having some trouble installing it. The transducer installation looks pretty easy, but I am trying to be careful about putting the power cable on my fuse box. I do know how to wire direct to a battery but I don't want all the wires hanging out and going to my battery compartment. does anyone have a diagram or a list of steps on how they installed their si unit? Mine will be at the console.

My Ranger 364V with a Johnson GT 150 has a normal kill switch with the lanyard, but when I pull the lanyard out while the motor is running, nothing happens. Any suggestions on how to fix the kill switch? Do I need the electronics on for it to work? Should I just take it to the dealer :'( ? Thanks.

Daiwa Fuego

I was out fishing a couple weeks ago and while fighting in a fish on my spinning rod I scraped it on a bridge. The scrape has scraped the epoxy a bit and I am pretty sure it has not gotten into the actual blank. Do you guys think I may eventually have problems with epoxy chipping or anything because of a scrape like this? It is about 1 inch long and located towards the top fourth of the blank. Sorry if this question sounds stupid, just curious.

I'm pretty sure there is a nut inside the rubber and both are locked on. One of the screws came off really easily in the beginning so I can try cutting that off and report back. I wish they would all just unscrew like that first one

I am currently trying to remove an old Motor Guide from my Ranger 364V and the mount will not come off. I opened up the front panel and it turns out the screws are held down on the bottom with rubber washers. How do I get the screws out? I have tried cutting the washers, but that isn't working.

All the trolling motor wires are connected.

I bought a used Ranger this summer that for some reason was still running on an old Motorguide Brute, I think about 95 for the motor. It has been working, but after a run on the Potomac where it was 26 degrees and there were 3 foot waves, it has stopped working. It came off the strap and bumped around, which may be the cause of the problem. It kept running after this though, and early one morning before school, about 2 days later, I turned it on and it started buzzing and would not run. I got back that afternoon and it buzzed a little then started working. Same thing happend the next day. This weekend it won't even work. I had been trying to get the prop off of it forever and finally got it off last night to find about 50 yards of braid wrapped in it. Thats probablly why it wasn't moving too fast. I took all the braid off and opened up the lower unit, all looks fine, but i rubbed the ends of the wire down with an old toothbrush. I then opened up the head and found one partially coroded wire, the red one. I cut it, stripped it, and put it back, same thing still happens. Now when I turn it on, I can definitly tell the buzzing is in the circuit board? Any ideas? I wanna try to get out on the river tomorrow so I gotta get it fixed ;D

It will rumble, but it will stop after about a second. I think I know what to do now though, just move the handle to the right of the throttle up before turning the key.

Does anyone know of any local (D.C. area) places where I can buy some. Does anyone have any they would sell me? Thanks.

I just got a bass boat, an 89 Ranger 364V with a Johnson GT 150. The boat is litterally in perfect condition. We took it out for a test ride with the previous owner and it ran fine. First time we took it out, all was fine with getting it to the ramp and launching it but the cranking battery was dead. We fished around the ramp for about an hour and then left, caught a few too. So I charge the cranking batery and headed out yesterday. The battery is fully charged and the motor will trim with ease. The problem is the motor won't start. I think I found my problem and that is that I wasn't pulling up on the plastic bar to the right of the throttle and putting it into the run position . Any input on other possible issues? Thanks guys.

How do you guys like it?

Yeah, the Mattlures Ultimate Bluegills are great baits.

Thanks guys. I love making jigs, it's a good way to spend time.