Fishing Rhino

Wow! This is akin to coming in under budget and ahead of time.

Well, that's mighty inconvenient. Instead of Thursday and Friday could you possibly do it Friday and Saturday? My wife and I will be on the road Friday and Saturday, traveling to our daughter's home. I was going to start a thread about witches. Guess I'll have to wait until Sunday.

You're welcome.

Physics deals with forces, movement, and resistance. There are three machines, pulleys, levers, and inclined planes. Think of the rod as a lever, and go from there. Where is the fulcrum, where is the force, and where is the resistance. A class one lever has the fulcrum (pivot) in the middle like a see/saw. The second class lever has the fulcrum at an end and the force at the other end, and the resistance in the middle. The third class lever has the fulcrum at one end, the force in the middle, and the resistance at the other end. The problem with fishing, be it casting or fighting a fish is that the type of lever, and the forces are constantly changing and moving. For instance, in casting the fulcrum can be the wrist(s), or the elbow, or possibly the shoulder, or a combination thereof. The length of the lever (rod) changes as it flexes. The fulcrum can change as well. Most of the time the wrist or elbow will be the fulcrum. Pick up your rod, and go through the motions of casting. Try various types of casts to see where the fulcrum is, wrist, elbow or shoulder. Because these are linkages, the fulcrum may change. The length of the rod will change as it flexes (shortens) or straightens out (lengthens). Then put a weight on your line and imagine fighting a fish. See how the arms, hands, wrists, move. Some levers are static, where things move but the fulcrum, resistance, and force are always in the same place on the lever. Fishing is dynamic, in a state of flux. An interesting assignment.

I don't have it, but I started fishing with a bamboo pole, a length of kite string, a cork, and a tin of hooks. The line was tied to the tip of the pole with a three or four foot tag end. about a foot from the tip, a clove hitch was used to tie the tag end to the rod. What was left of the tag end was tied another foot away from the tip. And, if you had enough you'd repeat. This was insurance in case the tip broke. A lengthwise slit was cut into the cork about half way through. This was the bobber. The distance between the cork and the hook was set by sliding the cork along the line to the desired distance. That rig was eventually replaced with a fiberglass rod and a baitcasting reel with a one to one ratio. The handle was attached to the axle of the spool. No gears, no anti reverse. We'd dig worms in the orchard and turn over rocks looking for lizards.

This one, or the other model which mounts on a vertical surface.

Yes, less fat requires more work to stay afloat. "......... If an object has a greater density than water, it sinks. If it is less dense than water, it floats. Which type of body material—muscle or fat—had greater density than water and which had a lower density? So, as it turns out, athletes with very little body fat might have to work harder to stay afloat in the water. To be healthy, our bodies need a balance of fat and muscle." https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/muscle-versus-fat/ The size of the lungs is also a factor.

I somewhat disagree with the swimmer in the pool example. What does a swimmer do just before diving for an object on the bottom of a pool? He takes a deep breath and becomes buoyant, or more buoyant. Water resists the movement of any object. Ever float on the water and exhale? What happens? You begin to sink. Take a breath before your nose and mouth are beneath the surface, and your body will float higher. Many drown because of panic. They start screaming and thrashing around which depletes the amount of air in the lungs, and they sink. If they'd just relax and take a deep breath, they would stay at the surface. Exhale quickly and take a deep breath. Then hold it for a bit. Then repeat the exhaling, inhaling technique. Keep your lungs inflated and you'll float. Cause your lungs to contract by expelling the air, and you'll sink. People with less body fat may have trouble floating because muscle is more dense than fat.

That would be correct if, and only if, water pressure was only applied to the bottom. But, you are on to something. Water pressure is generally equally distributed on the surface of an object that is immersed in water. However, since the object is three dimensional, there will be more force exerted on the deepest parts of an object. Side pressure is neutral. But, since the bottom of the plastic bait is slightly deeper than the top of the bait a greater force will act on the bottom. Think of a piece of wood floating on the surface, there is no downward force from the water on the top of the block of wood. But once an object sinks, that changes. " What does buoyant force mean? Have you ever dropped your swimming goggles in the deepest part of the pool and tried to swim down to get them? It can be frustrating because the water tries to push you back up to the surface as you're swimming downward. The name of this upward force exerted on objects submerged in fluids is called the buoyant force. So why do fluids exert an upward buoyant force on submerged objects? It has to do with differences in pressure between the bottom of the submerged object and the top. Say someone dropped a can of beans in a pool of water. [Not again!] Because pressure (P_{gauge}=\rho gh)(Pgauge=ρgh)left parenthesis, P, start subscript, g, a, u, g, e, end subscript, equals, rho, g, h, right parenthesis increases as you go deeper in a fluid, the force from pressure exerted downward on the top of the can of beans will be less than the force from pressure exerted upward on the bottom of the can. Essentially it's that simple. The reason there's a buoyant force is because of the rather unavoidable fact that the bottom (i.e. more submerged part) of an object is always deeper in a fluid than the top of the object. This means the upward force from water has to be greater than the downward force from water. [Hold on..what if?] F=PAF, equals, P, A Knowing conceptually why there should be a buoyant force is good, but we should also be able to figure out how to determine the exact size of the buoyant force as well. We can start with the fact that the water on the top of the can is pushing down F_{down}FdownF, start subscript, d, o, w, n, end subscript, and the water on the bottom of the can is pushing up F_{up}FupF, start subscript, u, p, end subscript. We can find the total upward force on the can exerted by water pressure (which we call the buoyant force F_{buoyant}FbuoyantF, start subscript, b, u, o, y, a, n, t, end subscript) by simply taking the difference between the magnitudes of the upward force F_{up}FupF, start subscript, u, p, end subscriptand downward force F_{down}FdownF, start subscript, d, o, w, n, end subscript." https://www.khanacademy.org/science/physics/fluids/buoyant-force-and-archimedes-principle/a/buoyant-force-and-archimedes-principle-article

Methinks the deeper it goes, the faster it will fall. How do I reach that conclusion? It's really quite simple. Water pressure increases with depth. Water pressure will compress the senko, reducing resistance and drag. Ergo, because the bait is smaller due to water pressure while the mass is unchanged, therefore, it will fall faster. Of course, we will have to take into account that the deeper it goes the more line it has to "drag" to the bottom. Does the compression of the senko offset the added drag of the line? I don't know. You'll have to ask someone smarter than me. Pardon my silliness, I've been up too long. Left the house at three-thirty this morning and just got home. A long day on the water will do that to me. Edit: Does anyone know if a senko will sink in salt water? I've really got to shower and go to bed.

As WRB said, there doesn't appear to be any problem at lower rpms, since the motor gets the boat up on plane normally. It seems to me that the computer control module, or whatever it may be called in outboards, is limiting the rpms for some reason. Low water pressure, engine overheating or on the verge of overheating, low oil level in the reservoir, etc. Seems to me the best way to get to the source of the problem is to take the boat in and have it diagnosed by computer.

Find one on Cobbetts. Then I can go up there with the Nitro again.

Looks like things have really slowed down in the Bay State. Typical, for me at least, this time of year.

Have you checked with a Triton dealer? Or called the company?

There has to be some way to visually inspect the fuel tank. How could it ever be inspected or serviced, such as replacing old fuel lines. On my boat and others I have seen, if you lift the liner from the rear side compartments, you can view the tank. On my Nitro, I can also tilt up the seat bottoms which provide access to the mechanism that houses the fuel pick up tube and the sender for the fuel gauge. The seat cushions hinge in the front. The rear of the cushions can be lifted to tilt the seat. I can see the entire top of the tank. I always lift the liner from the rear port side storage compartment to watch the level of fuel whenever I add fuel.

May you make many fond memories on your new vessel.

Hmmmm, it sounds like the state is using the bears to get rid of you.

Great news! You'll be back on the trail of Bigfoot before you know it.

Condolences.

Seems to me you'd be better off adding a chain saw to your list of must haves.

Designed to break? That's interesting. I don't think it's smart, but it is interesting. I've had two new Nitros that came with Motorguide trolling motors. Both had cords that broke before they were a year old. Both for the same reason. The last plastic guide they passed through had a casting ridge which chaffed through the cable. I sanded the ridge smooth, and increased the radius on the plastic part through which the cord passed and replaced the cord with polypro of the same diameter. I made it a foot longer than the standard cable. If the cable broke, what remained would be the same length as the original cord. I'm five years into the replacement cord and not so much as a scuff. As for the metal core cord, it won't break leaving you high and dry, but you will need to replace it, should it ever chaff through the outer layer. It won't take long for the metal core to groove what it passes through at the chaffing point. Here's an emergency fix should you experience a broken cord, using the two pieces that remain. Join the two pieces using what else? A fisherman's knot. Remove the cord and join the two pieces with the aforementioned fisherman's knot. Then, remove the pull handle and install it on the longer end of the knotted pull cord. The cord will be about five inches shorter, and the joining knot will be a few inches from the pull handle, but it will get you by. Be sure to see how the cord passes through the various components before you remove it.

You are talking about cosmetic issues. Would you get your "new carpet investment" back when you sell the boat? When someone sees scruffy carpet, or torn upholstery, they are looking for a bargain, knowing they will have to replace or repair cosmetic issues. Cosmetic issues, as a rule, tend to make a prospective buyer think that other, critical areas of maintenance were also neglected. You say you "may" buy another boat in a year. What if you don't get another boat? Are you willing to put up with scruffy carpeting beyond that time? More often than not that worn out carpet may be a deal killer, unless someone is looking for a "project boat" at a bargain basement price. It also depends on the overall condition of the boat. You are talking about a fourteen year old boat that sounds like it was ridden hard and put away wet. Check out what similar boats are worth in your area, then decide if it is worth the time and effort to replaced the carpet, or sell it as is. You don't want to spend a thousand dollars to gain five hundred dollars in value, be it carpeting, upholstery, or whatever.

Keep in mind that "weight capacity" is not just the weight of the people on the boat. It also includes the weight of your gear as well. Gear such as tackle, bait, grub, beverages, foul weather gear, etc. I don't know how they calculate these capacities, and I find this one confusing and dubious to say the least. Weight capacity on my Nitro Z8 is 4 persons or 1000 pounds. The placard on my 15.5 foot, square stern canoe has a capacity or 4 persons or 765 pounds. Length of Z8 20 feet plus, beam just over eight feet. Length and beam of canoe 15.5 feet, 41 inch beam. I'm thinking the input from liability lawyers have as much influence in calculating these capacities as the nautical engineers. I'd never put anything near the stated capacity on my canoe but would be comfortable with the stated capacity for my Nitro. Then again, my canoe will never be travelling at the same speeds as the Nitro.