Fishing Rhino

This is what you are looking for. I've had them on my boat for four years with no problem. But, I did put several wraps of electrical tape on the cable at each end of the plastic shields. I also eased the ends of the tube for the trolling motor cable by sanding a radius on all the ends. The electrical tape was wrapped to a thickness that made a snug fit when the shields were snapped into place. If the cable is loose, and can "rattle" around, the sharp edge if not rounded off, will cut the cable over time.

You need a "gutter" at the bottom of the opening and around it. Then, you need a drain tubing at the lowest point that leads to the bilge. Most fiberglass boats have it molded into the deck below the hatch. Something like this.

Well guys, the weather has been terrible here. It's either cold, rainy, or windy. I thought there might be a day or two where I could get on the water and be reasonably comfortable, but the windows of opportunity closed before they opened. Now, I'm focused on getting all the yard work done around here before I start my annual trek to warmer climes. Going to hook up with Grampa1117 for a couple of days on Lake Marion (Santee/Cooper) in South Caroliina. From there, it's on to Pickwick with maybe a side trip for a couple of days at Guntersville. I hope the weather improves around here for you guys. When I get back, I'm looking forward to some outings together.

Where do they sell it? Hardware stores? Maybe sporting good stores in the fishing department.

The Batman movies got too dark and heavy for my tastes. They never lightened up. The series that came out with Jack Nicholson, Danny DeVito, Jim Carrey, Arnold, etc., were full of comic relief to contrast with the dark side. Not so much with those starring Christian Bale. Those just got darker and darker. The third was brutal to watch. For me, it was unwatchable. All the teasers I've seen for Batman vs. Superman, or vice versa, gives me the impression that the entire film was shot on a cloudy, rainy, moonless night. Bring back the good old days when night scenes were shot in broad daylight complete with shadows by simply under developing the film. The Indiana Jones movies had plenty of gore, blood, and brutality, but they also had comic scenes to lighten them up. The scene of the fellow flashing and swirling the scimitar, threatening Indy. Indy looked at him, shrugged pulled out a pistol and dispatched the villain, followed by a gesture that indicates how simple it was. Now, it seems the more ponderous these films are the better.

Well, so are you. So what's your point?

Just push the "test button" on your circuit breaker. It will amount to the same thing as having a switch. Just reset it when you're ready to go. No tools required. Okay, you'll still need tools for the disconnect, but you won't be dealing with live wires.

No, it's a straight sale.

That might apply to singe axle trailers. I had a new Z-7 with a single axle trailer and I put several thousand miles on it with hardly a sign of tire wear. My Z-8 which was also new had a tandem axle trailer and wore those tire out in three years, doing the same amount of traveling. Every time you make a turn, in either direction, forward or backward, you scrub the contact patch of the tire. I could spin my single axle trailer in a circle by hand. The tandem axle trailer? Forget about it. You push the tongue sideways, release, and it will return to where it was. And if there is an alignment problem with a tandem axle it amplifies the wear.

Dielectric grease is your best friend. Use it on your trailer connectors. Use it on bulbs and their sockets. Use it on the plug for your trolling motor. End of problem. Put a light coat on all the male prongs of your plug, and squeeze a little into the sockets. Do the same with the plug for your trailer lights. If you have corrosion like that on your trolling motor you can be pretty sure that you have corrosion elsewhere. I used it for all the plug connections and bulbs on my boat when I was a commercial lobsterman. Never had a problem with any plug or bulbs that needed changing. The plug provides a disconnect for the trolling motor. Sure, you can put the control in the off position, but that can be bumped to the on position. You want some way to kill the power to the trolling motor, and a plug serves that purpose.

Yes, he used them as bowling balls.

What gulfcaptain said. The contour of that centerline "bulge" serves to stiffen the hull, and spreads the force of pounding through even small waves over a larger area. The same is true of the steps on a hull. Do not use polyester fiberglass resin. It will never be as strong as the original construction. In the original construction, the composite has a chemical bond which "links" the components. Once that construction cures, subsequent layup will only have a mechanical bond and polyester resins are much weaker than epoxy, and less flexible as well. Over time, the mechanical bond of polyester will fail, and you'll be back to square one. Prepare the surface carefully removing all grit, grime, and damaged areas before laying up new materials. I see you are in Minnesota, a cold winter climate. That broken area will allow for moisture to wick into the composite. When it freezes, it will expand, causing more damage. Once started, it becomes an endless, accelerating process. Polyester resin, contrary to popular opinion is not waterproof. It can and will absorb moisture. Gel coat does not absorb moisture. In addition to appearance, it provides a barrier to water that would otherwise soak into polyester resin. Here's a hint for all. Vinylester resin, which is also used in boat construction is waterproof. If you modify compartments using plywood then want to cover the plywood with fiberglass, or any similar type of work, use vinylester resin. If you are modifying a jon boat, decking the bow and stern, and building in storage compartments with a layer of fiberglass coating, use vinylester. It will cost more, but it will do a better job preventing water intrusion into the laminate.

They are also called gas struts. Like all other parts, all struts are not created equal. Some will last much longer than others. My preference would be to replace them with the same "strength" as the original equipment. Stiffer struts will result in more force on the mounting parts, possibly damaging them over time. It depends on how they fasten to the boat. That will be the weakest link in the assembly. I've seen struts work loose at those points. The "stronger" or stiffer the strut, the more force it puts at those points. Which reminds me to put "check strut mounts" on my to do list before getting on the water for the first time this season.

You better be careful Raider. He might be "handy" with a ladle.

Most troubles stem from, a lack of maintenance, abuse, neglect, and old age. Boats, and other machinery, are not that different from humans. As they age, they will develop problems, some earlier than others due to neglect, failure to exercise preventive measures which can make for a longer, healthier life. But in the end, time will claim man and machine. Inevitably, if you keep a boat long enough you will have problems.

Your best bet is to contact the manufacturer.

Now I get it. The first post read like you were in a demolition derby.

A hundred (rounded off) bucks per month, for how many years? In Mass that surcharge would be for three to five years. At 1200 per year, that's 3600 to 5000 dollars when all is said and done. Still, you are getting off lightly. Had you caused injuries, you'd have that on your conscience as well. That could be worse than the monetary hit. How many accidents were you in on those two trips? I could be wrong, but it sounds as though it is a common occurrence.

I dunno. After the two times I went out and got skunked I'm thinking my absence from March fishing has been a good decision. Having said that however, next weekend is a possibility. At this time of year, two factors will drive my decision, wind and temperature. Got most of the yard cleaned up. A few more hours and all the twigs and branches that fell over the winter should be on the brush pile out back. It's a great sanctuary for critters and birds. Got a few more things to do on the bass boat rig. Lube the wheel bearings. Check the nuts and bolts on the trailer, with special attention to the lag bolts which secure the bunks, and organize the gear in the boat. Then I'll be ready to head south to meet up with some friends.

Should you decide to tackle this project, remember, carpet has a "grain". You need to orient all the pieces accordingly. If you lay the carpet on your hatches one way, and then a different way on the deck that is around them, it will be obvious. Look at golf courses where they mow the fairways back and forth. It creates a pattern that is fine on a golf course, but not something that you'd want to see on the deck of your boat.

Congrats, and good luck with your new vessel. You've just broadened your horizons. I suspect there will be some places you'll prefer to fish from your kayak. I fish out of my canoe more than my Nitro, because it is more practical for most of the places I fish nearby. They are small, rock infested ponds with poor access for a trailered boat. On bigger water, the Nitro is my choice. Travelling a few hundred yards in a canoe with a trolling motor is time consuming. You'll get it sorted out. That's assuming you've kept your yak.

Outstanding! Well done.

Or tennis with the fuzzy balls. Dimples or fuzz, take your pick.

For future reference, take a picture of the assembly before you start to pull it apart. Take pictures from various angles, focusing on what you'll be taking apart. Take pictures at the various stages of the process so you can assemble in reverse order. Part "x" came off last. Part "X" goes on first.